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Chhairo Monastery (, THL Tsérok Monastery) was the first monastery of the
Nyingma Nyingma (literally 'old school') is the oldest of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism. It is also often referred to as ''Ngangyur'' (, ), "order of the ancient translations". The Nyingma school is founded on the first lineages and transl ...
school of
Tibetan Buddhism Tibetan Buddhism (also referred to as Indo-Tibetan Buddhism, Lamaism, Lamaistic Buddhism, Himalayan Buddhism, and Northern Buddhism) is the form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet and Bhutan, where it is the dominant religion. It is also in maj ...
founded in
Upper Mustang Upper Mustang (formerly Kingdom of Lo) is an upper part (Northern area) of Mustang District, which is located in Nepal. The ''Upper Mustang'' was a restricted kingdom until 1992 which makes it one of the most preserved regions in the world, with ...
. It was established in the 16th century and is part of present-day Mustang District,
Nepal Nepal (; ne, नेपाल ), formerly the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal ( ne, सङ्घीय लोकतान्त्रिक गणतन्त्र नेपाल ), is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is ma ...
. The village and the gompa are located on the historic salt trade route and the population of both Chhairo Monastery and Chhairo village fell into decline when China closed its border with Nepal in the 1960s to restrict movement by pro-Tibetan activists and again recently due to security concerns during the 2008 Summer Olympics. The last remaining
monks A monk (, from el, μοναχός, ''monachos'', "single, solitary" via Latin ) is a person who practices religious asceticism by monastic living, either alone or with any number of other monks. A monk may be a person who decides to dedica ...
left the monastery in the 1970s and by 1981 only four
nuns A nun is a woman who vows to dedicate her life to religious service, typically living under vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience in the enclosure of a monastery or convent.''The Oxford English Dictionary'', vol. X, page 599. The term is o ...
were taking care of the monastery. At some time between 1981 and the 1990s the management of Chhairo Gompa was left wholly to Chhairo village. Since the mid 2000s efforts to reconstruct the main
gompa A Gompa or Gönpa ( "remote place", Sanskrit ''araṇya''), also known as ling (), is a Buddhist ecclesiastical fortification of learning, lineage and sādhanā that may be understood as a conflation of a fortification, a vihara and a universi ...
complex have been made. This work is restricted to the monastery, shrine room to
Padmasambhava Padmasambhava ("Born from a Lotus"), also known as Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru) and the Lotus from Oḍḍiyāna, was a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from India who may have taught Vajrayana in Tibet (circa 8th – 9th centuries)... According ...
and the main rooms that form a quad around these. The larger monastery complex of rooms for monks, visitors, pilgrims and their horses remain in ruins to the east.


Name and location

Tashi Shagagh Jyochen Chhoyokhor Monastery, known locally as Chhairo Monastery, Chandanbari Monastery and historically as Tsérok Monastery, is situated in Mustang District,
Marpha Marpha is a village in Mustang District in the Dhawalagiri Zone of northern Nepal. At the time of the 1991 Nepal census it had a population of 1630 people living in 434 individual households. The village is a part of the trekking industry, and h ...
Village development committee (VDC), Ward No. 9, Chhairo village, in the
Western Development Region, Nepal The Western Development Region (Nepali: पश्चिमाञ्चल विकास क्षेत्र, ''Pashchimānchal Bikās Kshetra'') was one of Nepal's five development regions. It was located in the west-central part of the cou ...
at . It is about 20 mins walk south from Marpha town on the Annapurna trekking route from
Pokhara Pokhara ( ne, पोखरा, ) is a metropolitan city in Nepal, which serves as the capital of Gandaki Province. It is the second most populous city of Nepal after Kathmandu, with 518,452 inhabitants living in 101,669 households in 2021. ...
to
Jomsom Jomsom (), (Ward No. 4 of Gharpajhong Rural Municipality) also known as Dzongsam (New Fort) is the centre of Gharapjhong rural municipality in Mustang district and a former independent village development committee situated at an altitude of ...
in the
Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is ...
zone, on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki river reached by a small footbridge from the main road south of Marpha, and about 1.5hours walk north of
Tukuche Tukuche, sometimes spelt Tukche, is a village development committee in Mustang District in the Dhawalagiri Zone of northern Nepal. At the time of the 1991 Nepal census The 1991 Nepal census was a widespread national census conducted by the Ne ...
village, signposted to Chimang.


Influence of trade on the Thakali region

This is the area of the Thakali, an ethnolinguistic group originated from the Thak Khola region. Chhairo Gompa is located on the historical salt trading route from Tibet to southern Nepal. Customs offices were established in Nhechung near Rhyamdo, and thereafter in Jomsom, Mustang, Chhairo and Tukuche to serve the salt trade. The trade routes contributed to the rich political, social, religious and cultural activities of the late 1800s. The salt, grain and livestock trade enriched the economic and living standards of the local Thak communities, providing a conducive environment to establish the gompa which then served residents and traders alike.


Founding

The name of Chhairo village and the monastery is believed to originate from the name of a waterfall in the area, which is called ''chhahara'' in the
Nepali language Nepali (; , ) is an Indo-Aryan language native to the Himalayas region of South Asia. It is the official, and most widely spoken, language of Nepal, where it also serves as a '' lingua franca''. Nepali has official status in the Indian st ...
. The founder, Chhawang Thinlen (called ''sku shogs'' "The Illustrious"), is believed to have been a Thak resident having come from Kyirong Monastery. Alternative stories state that he was the younger of two brothers who migrated to Chhairo from Dhakartas Pandrasaya Khola of Rasuwa district. The Padmasambhava chapel, called Sanga Choling, is the smaller chapel to the northeast of the main shrine room. It is believed to have been built in the 18th century by Lama Sangye.


Spiritual provenance

The Monastery has its spiritual roots in the Northern Treasure () lineage, which was first taught at the three Nyingma Mother Monasteries of
Dorje Drak Dorjidak Gompa ( "Indestructible Rock Vihara") or Tupten Dorjidak Dorjé Drak Éwam Chokgar () is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and one of the Nyingma school's "Six Mother Monasteries" in Tibet. It is located in the Lhoka (Shannan) Prefecture ...
,
Katok Monastery Katok Monastery (, THL ''Katok Dorjé Den''), also transliterated as Kathok or Kathog Monastery, was founded in 1159 and is one of the "Six Mother Monasteries" in Tibet of the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism, built after Samye Monastery. It ...
and
Palyul Palyul Monastery (), also known as Palyul Namgyal Jangchub Choling Monastery and sometimes romanized as Pelyul Monastery, is one of the "Six Mother Monasteries" of the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. It was founded in 1665 by Rigzin Kunza ...
in
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ) is a region in East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are some other ethnic groups such as Monpa people, ...
. Chhairo monastery contributed to the expansion of the Nyingma teachings in Nepal and the Thak region in particular and was the first Nyingma monastery in Nepal. During the tenure of the second incarnation of Chhawang Thinlen, the monastery flourished and the extent of the physical infrastructure can still be seen outside the grounds of the current gompa. The footprint of the accommodation is visible for the lamas, monks and nuns who studied at the monastery contributing to the growth of the Nyingma school and the establishment of other monasteries in the region.


Incarnations (Tulkus)

The first incarnation was in the Sherchan family, but no further details are known. The second Lama reincarnation of Chhairo was the elder brother of Shanta Kumar Guachan. The Gauchan family and local people recall that five or six days after he was born, sun rays that touched him turned to a rainbow, identifying him as a reincarnation. Three years after the death, aged forty, of the second incarnation, Rajendra Bhattachan was born in Tukuche, the third reincarnation. The current incarnation has chosen not to become a lama. He has therefore delegated authority for the running of Chhairo Gompa to Shashi Dhoj Tulachan


Reviving the Gompa in body and soul

Body Responding to the first Tibetan rebellions against Chinese occupation, the Chinese government closed the Nepal–Tibet border at the Mustang passes. Changes in demand for goods and opening of alternative routes and modes of transport further affected the historic trade routes and Chhairo Gompa became less and less influential. Over time, community use of the gompa also declined as the local population moved away in search of alternative work and livelihood. As with many religious structures in the region, no monks remained at Chhairo, and it was given into the hands of local caretakers who were only able to maintain the core shrine rooms and courtyard. Recognising the wider importance of Chhairo Gompa in establishing the Nyngma sect in Thak, on the occasion of the 12 yearly Lhaphew, held in 2049 BS (
Vikram Samvat Vikram Samvat ( IAST: ''Vikrama Samvat''; abbreviated VS) or Bikram Sambat B.S. and also known as the Vikrami calendar, is a Hindu calendar historically used in the Indian subcontinent. Vikram Samvat is generally 57 years ahead of Gregorian Calen ...
) (approx. 1992 CE) a delegation from Chhairo visited Subba Tek Narsingh Bhattachan, a wealthy family and long time patrons, in Tukuche to request assistance in restoring the gompa. Inspired by their forefathers accounts of Tukche and Chhairo in their former glory and strong architectural and religious heritage, and stimulated and encouraged by Sashi Dhoj Tulachan, their religious leader, some of the younger generation is interested to repair and conserve the gompa complex, revitalising the community and rehabilitating the disintegrating fabric of Tukche through various activities associated with Chhairo Gompa. The Chhairo Reconstruction and Maintenance Committee was formed who proceeded to collect information about the legal status of the gompa structures and property as well as determine the extent of the works that would be required. In 2045 BS (approx. 1997/98) funds had been raised and technical conservation advice was sought, enabling engagement of an architectural firm to undertake a preliminary survey and develop the reconstruction scope and estimate. Since 2004/5, the reconstruction has been supported by RWI, previously known as CRTP. Soul In 2012 the gompas became home to six young boys aged 7 to 11 from Jumla and
Dolpa Dolpa District ( ne, डोल्पा जिल्ला), is a district, located in Karnali Province of Nepal, It is one of the seventy-seven districts of Nepal and one of ten district of Karnali. The district, with Dunai as its district he ...
districts of the
Mid-Western Development Region, Nepal The Mid-Western Development Region (Nepali: मध्य-पश्चिमाञ्चल विकास क्षेत्र, ''Madhya-Pashchimānchal Bikās Kshetra'') was one of the largest and formerly one of Nepal's five development regi ...
who will train to be monks. From summer 2012 to autumn 2013 attended mainstream education at the primary school of the adjacent Tibetan camp, learning Nepali, Tibetan and English. The local community continue to be involved in decisions regarding the direction and extent of the reconstruction efforts. The current Lama, Shashi Dhoj Tulachan leads the interaction with the architect and volunteer groups, together with his brother, Chakra Tulachan. Chhairo villagers are employed as masons, carpenters and labourers as well as caretakers for the lhakang and gyalpo and cook and caretaker for the 6 young monks in training. In the winter school break of 2013-2014 they began more regular monastic studies under the guidance of Lopen Sonam, during the winter to Pokhara to work towards a new generation of monks to serve Chhairo Gompa.


Guru Nawang Chhogyall Tenzin (Shashi Dhoj Tulachan)

Lama
Shashi Dhoj Tulachan Shashi Dhoj Tulachan, called ''Guru Nawang Chhogyall Tenzin'', is the spiritual leader of the Chhairo gompa, of Nyingma Tibetan Buddhism, having been given responsibility for the Gompa by the current incarnation who is not a practising lama. He i ...
is the spiritual leader of Chhairo Gompa having been given responsibility for Chhairo Gompa by the current incarnation who is not a practicing lama. He is responsible for the physical reconstruction of the gompa as well as the teaching of the young monks from Mid West Region who have been brought to re-establish the gompa's monastic purpose.


Religious art

The original wall paintings in both chapels are blackened with dirt and smoke from centuries of burning butter lamps and incense and have also suffered significant damage from water seepage. (c) 2013 renovation to the interior of either chapel has not been undertaken.


Main gompa

Lama Chhiwang Thilen, Chhairo gompa's founder, is believed to have painted the original frescoes in sMon and Gya Bris styles. They are predominantly in the sMon Bris style with elements of U Birs and even Bal Bris. The original frescoes in the lhakang were washed off and redone by Kamal Dhoj Tulachan,
Shashi Dhoj Tulachan Shashi Dhoj Tulachan, called ''Guru Nawang Chhogyall Tenzin'', is the spiritual leader of the Chhairo gompa, of Nyingma Tibetan Buddhism, having been given responsibility for the Gompa by the current incarnation who is not a practising lama. He i ...
's father in 1960. c)1981 the central altar statue was a
Sakyamuni Siddhartha Gautama, most commonly referred to as the Buddha, was a wandering ascetic and religious teacher who lived in South Asia during the 6th or 5th century BCE and founded Buddhism. According to Buddhist tradition, he was born in Lu ...
(c)1994 the central figure at the gompa altar was a clay image of
Sakyamuni Siddhartha Gautama, most commonly referred to as the Buddha, was a wandering ascetic and religious teacher who lived in South Asia during the 6th or 5th century BCE and founded Buddhism. According to Buddhist tradition, he was born in Lu ...
, flanked by his disciples, Ananda and Sariputra. Numerous small statues of Chhairo Gompa's past lamas and benefactors are also found. A lifelike clay image of the founder, Chhiwang Thilen, sat on the right corner of the altar. The interior of the roof lantern was panelled with slate carvings.


Padmasambhava Padmasambhava ("Born from a Lotus"), also known as Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru) and the Lotus from Oḍḍiyāna, was a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from India who may have taught Vajrayana in Tibet (circa 8th – 9th centuries)... According ...
Chapel

A 3m clay and bamboo
Padmasambhava Padmasambhava ("Born from a Lotus"), also known as Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru) and the Lotus from Oḍḍiyāna, was a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from India who may have taught Vajrayana in Tibet (circa 8th – 9th centuries)... According ...
statue dominates the room and is believed to have been created by Khaipa Chh'ekoup. The most recent wall paintings are attributed to Lama Kamal Dhoj Tulachan, a famous painter of Mustang and the father of
Shashi Dhoj Tulachan Shashi Dhoj Tulachan, called ''Guru Nawang Chhogyall Tenzin'', is the spiritual leader of the Chhairo gompa, of Nyingma Tibetan Buddhism, having been given responsibility for the Gompa by the current incarnation who is not a practising lama. He i ...
. (c) 2013 the paintings that can be seen were completed in 1953 and are in the sMon Bris style.


Architecture

The Chhairo Gompa complex follows the traditional flat roof structures of the Mustang region with stone walls and consists of a temple courtyard, head lama quarters, kitchen and the monks’ quarters and stables.


The main gompa courtyard

The temple compound has two religious rooms; the main shrine room and the smaller adjacent
Padmasambhava Padmasambhava ("Born from a Lotus"), also known as Guru Rinpoche (Precious Guru) and the Lotus from Oḍḍiyāna, was a tantric Buddhist Vajra master from India who may have taught Vajrayana in Tibet (circa 8th – 9th centuries)... According ...
chapel; that face inward onto a slate paved courtyard that was bounded on the other three sides by two-story galleries where visiting guests could view ritual Cham dance. Only the northern verandas are still standing. The main shrine room rises above the remaining structures and is capped with a small central lantern providing the only natural source of light. The Padmasambhava chapel (Sanga Choling) is immediately adjacent to the north east and is also capped by a small lantern. It is believed to have been constructed in the 18th century by Lama Sangye. This shrine room currently also serves as the gyalpo since the original gyalpo collapsed. Two statues of the guardian deities are currently housed here. They will be relocated to the new gyalpo when it is completed © 2013. The dry stone masonry walls are approximately a metre thick with a timber ring beam about one metre beneath the roof acts as a tie. The walls of the Lhakhang and the Shrine room facing the courtyard are mud plastered, reddish clay for the Lhakhang and white clay for the Chapel. The windows and doors are in a Newari style influenced by the craftspeople of the Thak area. They are modestly carved but have been heavily over painted. The three upper windows to the Lhakhang incorporate standard Tibetan details creating the lintels to the openings and painted black. The Lhakhang doors have embossed knobs and are decorated with Tibetan inscriptions. A pair of carved images fixed to the Lhakhang's inner doorjambs are said to be Dvarapala or guardians to the temple.


The Head Lama's Quarters and Kitchen

Structures housing the Head Lama's quarters and the gompa's original kitchen enclose the courtyard. The kitchen area, in the northeast corner of the courtyard was composed of three rooms: a cooking/eating area, a storeroom and a room for washing. The adjacent Head Lama quarters were on the same level but took advantage of a sloping site and were built as an upper floor above ground level stables. The outer walls remain generally sound, but the Lama's quarters had completely collapsed. Restoration work was completed in 2012 providing living, bathroom, kitchen quarters for the Lama, a sleeping area for the young monks as well as additional rooms for visitors. The new Gyalpo is located at the top of this structure, and is currently being decorated © 2013. Since 2005 the kitchen has been located in a single storey room to the west of the courtyard.


The Monks’ Quarters and Stables

The monks’ quarters and stables are to the east of the lama's quarters and, for the most part have collapsed, although the foundation walls are largely intact. This part of the complex originally consisted of two open courtyards divided by a central spine wall running east-west. The wall divided the space into two separate, approximately square courtyards measuring 20 by 20 metres. The northern section is a single-story structure built on higher ground. An internal stone and earth walkway within the northern courtyard provided space for the occupants to sit outside their quarters. The southern courtyard complex is built on lower ground and is generally two stories, allowing space for livestock to be housed in the lower floor and space for living quarters on the upper level. The floors were rammed earth with timber joists and planking laid over. Although this section of the complex is the most dilapidated, it is the section that is most suitable for development and possible expansion.


Restoration Plans

There is a three-phase restoration plan: * Phase IA –emergency repairs and rehabilitation of the temple compound * Phase IB – recreate as near as possible the original layout and appearance of the head lama quarters and kitchens while improving and upgrading the accommodations * Phase II – rebuild the monks’ quarters and stables for development as a training centre for Buddhist arts. Long term plans anticipate converting the stable areas into habitable space, providing living quarters for monks. The structures around the northern courtyard could be used as classrooms and studios for Buddhist art training, Buddhist retreat or a crafts centre to help revitalize the local economy.


References


External links


ChhairoGompa.org official websiteUN map of the municipalities of Mustang District
*Trekking in the Nepal Himalaya (2009) Mayhew, Bindloss {{TibetanBuddhism Buddhist monasteries in Nepal Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal 16th-century establishments in Nepal Buildings and structures in Mustang District