Cheryl Buckley (born 1956)
is a British design historian whose research has focused on
feminist
Feminism is a range of socio-political movements and ideology, ideologies that aim to define and establish the political, economic, personal, and social gender equality, equality of the sexes. Feminism holds the position that modern soci ...
approaches to
design history
Design history is the study of objects of design in their historical and stylistic contexts. With a broad definition, the contexts of design history include the social, the cultural, the economic, the political, the technical and the aesthetic. ...
. She has published on British
ceramic design and
fashion
Fashion is a term used interchangeably to describe the creation of clothing, footwear, Fashion accessory, accessories, cosmetics, and jewellery of different cultural aesthetics and their mix and match into Clothing, outfits that depict distinct ...
. Her works include the influential article "Made in Patriarchy: Toward a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design" (1986) and the books ''Potters and Paintresses'' (1990) and ''Designing Modern Britain'' (2007). She was professor of fashion and design history at the
University of Brighton
The University of Brighton is a public university based in Brighton on the south coast of England. Its roots can be traced back to 1858 when the Brighton School of Art was opened in the Royal Pavilion. It achieved university status in 1992.
T ...
from 2013 to 2021, and was previously professor of design history at
Northumbria University
Northumbria University (legally the University of Northumbria at Newcastle) is a Public research university, public research university located in Newcastle upon Tyne, North East England, North East of England. It has been a university since 199 ...
. In 2021, she was made Professor Emerita at the University of Brighton.
Education and career
Buckley attended the
University of East Anglia
The University of East Anglia (UEA) is a Public university, public research university in Norwich, England. Established in 1963 on a campus university, campus west of the city centre, the university has four faculties and twenty-six schools of ...
, gaining a degree in
history of art
The history of art focuses on objects made by humans for any number of spiritual, narrative, philosophical, symbolic, conceptual, documentary, decorative, and even functional and other purposes, but with a primary emphasis on its aesthetics ...
and architecture (1977). She received a master's degree in
design history
Design history is the study of objects of design in their historical and stylistic contexts. With a broad definition, the contexts of design history include the social, the cultural, the economic, the political, the technical and the aesthetic. ...
from
Newcastle University
Newcastle University (legally the University of Newcastle upon Tyne) is a public research university based in Newcastle upon Tyne, England. It has overseas campuses in Singapore and Malaysia. The university is a red brick university and a mem ...
(1982). She returned to the University of East Anglia for her PhD in design history, awarded in 1991.
She worked from 1980 at Newcastle Polytechnic in
Newcastle-upon-Tyne
Newcastle upon Tyne, or simply Newcastle ( , Received Pronunciation, RP: ), is a City status in the United Kingdom, cathedral city and metropolitan borough in Tyne and Wear, England. It is England's northernmost metropolitan borough, located o ...
, renamed
Northumbria University
Northumbria University (legally the University of Northumbria at Newcastle) is a Public research university, public research university located in Newcastle upon Tyne, North East England, North East of England. It has been a university since 199 ...
in 1992, latterly as professor of design history, before joining the
University of Brighton
The University of Brighton is a public university based in Brighton on the south coast of England. Its roots can be traced back to 1858 when the Brighton School of Art was opened in the Royal Pavilion. It achieved university status in 1992.
T ...
in 2013, where she is professor of
fashion
Fashion is a term used interchangeably to describe the creation of clothing, footwear, Fashion accessory, accessories, cosmetics, and jewellery of different cultural aesthetics and their mix and match into Clothing, outfits that depict distinct ...
and design history.
In 2017, she and Jeremy Aynsley established the Centre for Design History at Brighton.
In 2000, she co-founded the journal ''
Visual Culture in Britain''.
She chaired the
Design History Society (2006–09) and served as editor-in-chief of its journal, the ''
Journal of Design History'' (2011–16).
Research and writings
Buckley states her current research interests as
gender
Gender is the range of social, psychological, cultural, and behavioral aspects of being a man (or boy), woman (or girl), or third gender. Although gender often corresponds to sex, a transgender person may identify with a gender other tha ...
and design,
and has been described as a
feminist
Feminism is a range of socio-political movements and ideology, ideologies that aim to define and establish the political, economic, personal, and social gender equality, equality of the sexes. Feminism holds the position that modern soci ...
design historian.
She has published on
ceramic design and fashion, focusing on Britain from the mid-
Victorian era
In the history of the United Kingdom and the British Empire, the Victorian era was the reign of Queen Victoria, from 20 June 1837 until her death on 22 January 1901. Slightly different definitions are sometimes used. The era followed the ...
to the present day.
Her article "Made in Patriarchy: Toward a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design", published in ''
Design Issues'' in 1986, opens:
In the article, described as "seminal" by
Victor Margolin and "ground-breaking" by Grace Lees-Maffei,
[Grace Lees-Maffei, "Judith Attfield", in ''The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Design'', Vol. 1 (Clive Edwards, ed.) (Bloomsbury Academic; 2016), pp. 96–97 () (Downloaded fro]
25 November 2020) Buckley teases out design contributions made by women, and suggests that craft arts have been ignored in the study of design history.
In her first book, ''Potters and Paintresses: Women Designers in the Pottery Industry, 1870–1955'' (1990), Buckley discusses the participation of women in ceramic design during this period.
In ''Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women's Fashion from the Fin de Siècle to the Present'' (2002), Buckley and co-author Hilary Fawcett review fashion in Britain from 1890, highlighting its interaction with both
feminism
Feminism is a range of socio-political movements and ideology, ideologies that aim to define and establish the political, economic, personal, and social gender equality, equality of the sexes. Feminism holds the position that modern soci ...
and
femininity
Femininity (also called womanliness) is a set of attributes, behaviors, and Gender roles, roles generally associated with women and girls. Femininity can be understood as Social construction of gender, socially constructed, and there is also s ...
as well as its "paradoxical" relationship with
modernity
Modernity, a topic in the humanities and social sciences, is both a historical period (the modern era) and the ensemble of particular Society, socio-Culture, cultural Norm (social), norms, attitudes and practices that arose in the wake of the ...
. More recently, Buckley co-authored ''Fashion and Everyday Life: London and New York'' with Hazel Clark (2017).
In her second sole-authored book, ''Designing Modern Britain'' (2007), Buckley surveys British design between 1890 and 2001, broadly chronologically via numerous case studies. She employs a broad definition of design, which she considers "a matrix of interdependent practices", encompassing
architecture
Architecture is the art and technique of designing and building, as distinguished from the skills associated with construction. It is both the process and the product of sketching, conceiving, planning, designing, and construction, constructi ...
,
town planning
Urban planning (also called city planning in some contexts) is the process of developing and designing land use and the built environment, including air, water, and the infrastructure passing into and out of urban areas, such as transportatio ...
,
interior design
Interior design is the art and science of enhancing the interior of a building to achieve a healthier and more aesthetically pleasing environment for the people using the space. With a keen eye for detail and a Creativity, creative flair, an ...
,
pottery
Pottery is the process and the products of forming vessels and other objects with clay and other raw materials, which are fired at high temperatures to give them a hard and durable form. The place where such wares are made by a ''potter'' is al ...
,
textile
Textile is an Hyponymy and hypernymy, umbrella term that includes various Fiber, fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, Staple (textiles)#Filament fiber, filaments, Thread (yarn), threads, and different types of #Fabric, fabric. ...
s, and fashion.
Selected publications
Books
Source:
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Research articles
Cheryl Buckley (2020), 'Made in Patriarchy II: Researching (or Re-searching) Women and Design', Design Issues, volume 36, number 1, Winter 2020, 19-29.https://doi.org/10.1162/desi_a_00572
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References
External links
Profile at the University of Brighton
{{DEFAULTSORT:Buckley, Cheryl
1956 births
Living people
Alumni of the University of East Anglia
Alumni of Newcastle University
Academics of Northumbria University
Academics of the University of Brighton
Design researchers
British social historians
British women art historians
20th-century English historians
21st-century English historians
20th-century English women writers
21st-century English women writers