Chanel ( , ) is a French
luxury fashion house founded in 1910 by
Coco Chanel
Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel ( , ; 19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was a French fashion designer and Businessperson, businesswoman. The founder and namesake of the Chanel brand, she was credited in the post-World War I era with populari ...
in
Paris
Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 residents in January 2025 in an area of more than , Paris is the List of ci ...
. It is privately owned by French brothers,
Alain and
Gérard Wertheimer, through the
holding company
A holding company is a company whose primary business is holding a controlling interest in the Security (finance), securities of other companies. A holding company usually does not produce goods or services itself. Its purpose is to own Share ...
Chanel Limited, established in 2018 and headquartered in
London
London is the Capital city, capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of both England and the United Kingdom, with a population of in . London metropolitan area, Its wider metropolitan area is the largest in Wester ...
.
Chanel specializes in women's
ready-to-wear
Ready-to-wear (RTW)also called ''prêt-à-porter'', or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual useis the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a partic ...
, luxury goods, and accessories and licenses its name and branding to
Luxottica
Luxottica Group S.p.A. is an Italian glasses, eyewear multinational corporation headquartered in Milan. As a vertically integrated company, Luxottica designs, manufactures, distributes, and retails its eyewear brands through its own subsidiaries ...
for eyewear.
Chanel is well known for its
No. 5 perfume and "Chanel Suit". Chanel is credited for revolutionizing ''
haute couture
(; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design. The term ''haute couture'' generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the ...
'' and ready-to-wear by replacing structured,
corset
A corset /ˈkɔːrsɪt/ is a support garment worn to constrict the torso into the desired shape and Posture correction, posture. They are traditionally constructed out of fabric with boning made of Baleen, whalebone or steel, a stiff panel in th ...
ed silhouettes with more functional garments that women still found flattering.
History
Coco Chanel era
;Establishment and recognition (1909–1920s)
The House of Chanel originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened a
millinery shop at 160
Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of the Parisian flat of the
socialite
A socialite is a person, typically a woman from a wealthy or aristocratic background, who is prominent in high society. A socialite generally spends a significant amount of time attending various fashionable social gatherings, instead of having ...
and textile businessman
Étienne Balsan, of whom she was the mistress.
Because the Balsan flat also was a
salon
Salon may refer to:
Common meanings
* Beauty salon
A beauty salon or beauty parlor is an establishment that provides Cosmetics, cosmetic treatments for people. Other variations of this type of business include hair salons, spas, day spas, ...
for the French hunting and sporting élite, Chanel had the opportunity to meet their ''
demi-mondaine'' mistresses who, as such, were women of fashion, upon whom the rich men displayed their wealth – as ornate clothes, jewellery, and hats.

Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made; she thus earned a living independent of Balsan. In the course of those salons, Coco Chanel befriended
Arthur "Boy" Capel, an English socialite and
polo player friend of Étienne Balsan; per the upper class social custom, Chanel also became mistress to Boy Capel. In 1910, Boy Capel financed her first independent millinery shop, ''Chanel Modes'', at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris. Because that locale already housed a dress shop, the business-lease limited Chanel to selling only millinery products, not ''
couture''. Two years later 1913, the
Deauville
Deauville () is a communes of France, commune in the Calvados (department), Calvados department, Normandy (administrative region), Normandy, northwestern France. Major attractions include its port, harbour, Race track, race course, marinas, con ...
and
Biarritz
Biarritz ( , , , ; also spelled ; ) is a city on the Bay of Biscay, on the Atlantic coast in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. It is located from the border with Spain. It is a luxu ...
''couture'' shops of Coco Chanel offered for sale ''
prêt-à-porter'' sports clothes for women, the practical designs of which allowed the wearer to play sports.
The
First World War
World War I or the First World War (28 July 1914 – 11 November 1918), also known as the Great War, was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War I, Allies (or Entente) and the Central Powers. Fighting to ...
(1914–1918), affected European fashion through scarcity of materials, and the mobilisation of women. By that time, Chanel had opened a large dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon, near the
Hôtel Ritz, in Paris. Among the clothes for sale were
flannel blazer
A blazer is a jacket worn as part of a smart casual or business casual look.
Similar to a sport jacket, a blazer is not part of a formal suit, and the terms "sport coat" and "blazer" may be used interchangeably in daily life.
A nautical bl ...
s, straight-line skirts of
linen
Linen () is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant.
Linen is very strong and absorbent, and it dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. Lin ...
,
sailor blouses, long
sweaters made of
jersey
Jersey ( ; ), officially the Bailiwick of Jersey, is an autonomous and self-governing island territory of the British Islands. Although as a British Crown Dependency it is not a sovereign state, it has its own distinguishing civil and gov ...
fabric, and skirt-and-jacket suits.
Coco Chanel used jersey cloth because of its physical properties as a garment, such as its drape – how it falls upon and falls from the body of the woman – and how well it adapted to a simple garment-design. Sartorially, some of Chanel's designs derived from the military uniforms made prevalent by the War; and, by 1915, the designs and the clothes produced by the House of Chanel were known throughout France.
In 1915, Chanel opened her very first Couture House in Biarritz, France. She had 300 employees and even designed her first line of Haute Couture.
In 1915 and in 1917, ''
Harper's Bazaar
''Harper's Bazaar'' (stylized as ''Harper's BAZAAR'') is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. Bazaar has been published in New York City since November 2, 1867, originally as a weekly publication entitled ''Harper's Bazar''."Corporat ...
'' magazine reported that the garments of La Maison Chanel were "on the list of every buyer" for the clothing factories of Europe.
The Chanel dress shop at 31 Rue Cambon presented day-wear dress-and-coat ensembles of simple design, and black evening dresses trimmed with lace; and
tulle-fabric dresses decorated with
jet, a minor gemstone material.
After the First World War, La Maison Chanel, following the fashion trends of the 1920s, produced beaded dresses made popular by
Flapper
Flappers were a subculture of young Western women prominent after the First World War and through the 1920s who wore short skirts (knee length was considered short during that period), bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their ...
women.
The simple-line, 'flat-chested' fashions Chanel ''couture'' made popular were opposite of the
hourglass figure fashions of the late 19th century – the
Belle Époque
The Belle Époque () or La Belle Époque () was a period of French and European history that began after the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and continued until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Occurring during the era of the Fr ...
of France (–1914), and the British
Edwardian era
In the United Kingdom, the Edwardian era was a period in the early 20th century that spanned the reign of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. It is commonly extended to the start of the First World War in 1914, during the early reign of King Ge ...
(–1919). Chanel used colors traditionally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as grey and navy blue, to denote feminine boldness.
Chanel clothing often featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings; the quilted construction reinforced the fabric, design, and finish, allowing the garment to maintain its form and function while worn. An example is the
woolen
Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast t ...
Chanel suit – a knee-length skirt and a cardigan-style jacket, trimmed and decorated with black
embroidery
Embroidery is the art of decorating Textile, fabric or other materials using a Sewing needle, needle to stitch Yarn, thread or yarn. It is one of the oldest forms of Textile arts, textile art, with origins dating back thousands of years across ...
and gold-coloured buttons, often accessorized with two-tone
pump shoes, a necklace of pearls, and a leather handbag.
In 1921, to complement Chanel's clothing lines, Coco Chanel commissioned perfumer
Ernest Beaux to create a perfume for La Maison Chanel. His perfumes included the perfume
No.5, named after the number of the sample Chanel liked best. Originally, given as a gift to clients, No.5's popularity prompted La Maison Chanel to offer it for sale in 1922.
In 1923, to explain the success of her clothes, Coco Chanel told ''Harper's Bazaar'' magazine that design "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance."
;Business partners (late 1920s)
The success of the
No. 5 encouraged Coco Chanel to expand perfume sales beyond France and Europe and to develop other perfumes – for which she required investment capital, business acumen, and access to the North American market. To that end, the businessman
Théophile Bader (founder of
Galeries Lafayette) introduced the
venture capital
Venture capital (VC) is a form of private equity financing provided by firms or funds to start-up company, startup, early-stage, and emerging companies, that have been deemed to have high growth potential or that have demonstrated high growth in ...
ist
Pierre Wertheimer to Coco Chanel. Their business deal established the Parfums Chanel company, a ''parfumerie'' of which Wertheimer owned 70 per cent, Bader owned 20 per cent, and Chanel owned 10 per cent; commercial success of the joint enterprise was assured by the Chanel name, and by the cachet of la "Maison Chanel", which remained the sole business province of Coco Chanel.
Nonetheless, despite the success of the Chanel couture and ''parfumerie'', the personal relations between Coco and her capitalist partner deteriorated, because, Coco said that Pierre Wertheimer was exploiting her talents as a fashion designer and as a businesswoman.
Wertheimer reminded Chanel that he had made her a very rich woman; and that his venture capital had funded Chanel's productive expansion of the ''parfumerie'' which created the wealth they enjoyed, all from the success of No. 5 de Chanel.
Nevertheless, unsatisfied, the businesswoman Gabrielle Chanel hired the attorney
René de Chambrun to renegotiate the 10-per-cent partnership she entered, in 1924, with the Parfums Chanel company; the lawyer-to-lawyer negotiations failed, and the partnership-percentages remained as established in the original business deal among Wertheimer, Badel, and Chanel.
;War (1930s–1940s)
From the
gamine fashions of the 1920s, Coco Chanel progressed to womanly fashions in the 1930s: evening-dress designs were characterised by an elongated feminine style, and summer dresses featured contrasts such as silver eyelets, and shoulder straps decorated with
rhinestones – drawing from Renaissance-time fashion stylings. In 1932, Chanel presented an exhibition of jewellery dedicated to the diamond as a fashion accessory; it featured the ''Comet'' and ''Fountain'' necklaces of diamonds, which were of such original design, that Chanel S.A. re-presented them in 1993. Moreover, by 1937, the House of Chanel had expanded the range of its clothes to more women and presented ''prêt-à-porter'' clothes designed and cut for the petite woman.
Among fashion designers, only the clothes created by
Elsa Schiaparelli could compete with the clothes of Chanel.
During the
Second World War
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
(1939–45), Coco Chanel closed shop at Maison Chanel – leaving only jewellery and ''parfumerie'' for sale – and moved to the
Hôtel Ritz Paris
The Ritz Paris is a hotel in central Paris, overlooking the Place Vendôme in the city's 1st arrondissement of Paris, 1st arrondissement. A member of The Leading Hotels of the World marketing group, the Ritz Paris is ranked among the most luxur ...
, where she lived with her boyfriend, Hans Günther von Dincklage, a Nazi intelligence officer.
Upon conquering France in June 1940, the Nazis established a Parisian occupation-headquarters in the
Hôtel Meurice, on the
Rue de Rivoli, opposite the
Louvre Museum
The Louvre ( ), or the Louvre Museum ( ), is a national art museum in Paris, France, and one of the most famous museums in the world. It is located on the Rive Droite, Right Bank of the Seine in the city's 1st arrondissement of Paris, 1st arron ...
, and just around the corner from the fashionable Maison Chanel S.A., at 31 Rue Cambon.
Meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation's official anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the U.S., in mid-1940. Later, in 1941, Coco Chanel attempted to assume business control of Parfums Chanel but was thwarted by an administrative
delegation
Delegation is the process of distributing and entrusting work to another person.Schermerhorn, J., Davidson, P., Poole, D., Woods, P., Simon, A., & McBarron, E. (2017). ''Management'' (6th ed., pp. 282–286). Brisbane: John Wiley & Sons Australia. ...
that disallowed her sole disposition of the ''parfumerie''. Having foreseen the Nazi occupation policy of the seizure-and-expropriation to Germany of Jewish business and assets in France, Pierre Wertheimer, the majority partner, had earlier, in May 1940, designated
Felix Amiot, a Christian French industrialist, as the "
Aryan
''Aryan'' (), or ''Arya'' (borrowed from Sanskrit ''ārya''), Oxford English Dictionary Online 2024, s.v. ''Aryan'' (adj. & n.); ''Arya'' (n.)''.'' is a term originating from the ethno-cultural self-designation of the Indo-Iranians. It stood ...
" proxy whose legal control of the Parfums Chanel business proved politically acceptable to the Nazis, who then allowed the perfume company to continue as an operating business.
Occupied France abounded with rumours that Coco Chanel was a Nazi
collaborator; her clandestine identity was secret agent 7124 of the
Abwehr
The (German language, German for ''resistance'' or ''defence'', though the word usually means ''counterintelligence'' in a military context) ) was the German military intelligence , military-intelligence service for the ''Reichswehr'' and the ...
, code-named "Westminster".
As such, by order of General
Walter Schellenberg, of the ''
Sicherheitsdienst
' (, "Security Service"), full title ' ("Security Service of the ''Reichsführer-SS''"), or SD, was the intelligence agency of the Schutzstaffel, SS and the Nazi Party in Nazi Germany. Established in 1931, the SD was the first Nazi intelligence ...
'', Chanel was despatched to London on a mission to communicate to British Prime Minister
Winston Churchill
Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill (30 November 1874 – 24 January 1965) was a British statesman, military officer, and writer who was Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1940 to 1945 (Winston Churchill in the Second World War, ...
the particulars of a "separate peace" plan proposed by ''
Reichsführer-SS
(, ) was a special title and rank that existed between the years of 1925 and 1945 for the commander of the (SS). ''Reichsführer-SS'' was a title from 1925 to 1933, and from 1934 to 1945 it was the highest Uniforms and insignia of the Schut ...
''
Heinrich Himmler
Heinrich Luitpold Himmler (; 7 October 1900 – 23 May 1945) was a German Nazism, Nazi politician and military leader who was the 4th of the (Protection Squadron; SS), a leading member of the Nazi Party, and one of the most powerful p ...
, who sought to avoid surrendering to the
Red Army
The Workers' and Peasants' Red Army, often shortened to the Red Army, was the army and air force of the Russian Soviet Republic and, from 1922, the Soviet Union. The army was established in January 1918 by a decree of the Council of People ...
of the Soviet Russians.
At War's end, upon the
Allied liberation of France, Chanel was arrested for having collaborated with the Nazis. In September 1944, the
Free French
Free France () was a resistance government
claiming to be the legitimate government of France following the dissolution of the Third French Republic, Third Republic during World War II. Led by General , Free France was established as a gover ...
Purge Committee, the ''
épuration'', summoned Chanel for interrogation about her collaborationism, yet, without documentary evidence of or witnesses to her collaboration with the Nazis, and because of Churchill's secret intervention in her behalf, the ''épuration'' released Coco Chanel from arrest as a traitor to France.
Despite having been freed by the political grace of Churchill, the strength of the rumours of Chanel's Nazi collaboration had made it impossible for her to remain in France; so Coco Chanel and her German lover, Hans Günther von Dincklage, went into an eight-year exile to
Switzerland
Switzerland, officially the Swiss Confederation, is a landlocked country located in west-central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the east. Switzerland ...
.
In the post–war period, during Coco Chanel's Swiss exile from France, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and regained formal administrative control of his family's business holdings – including control of Parfums Chanel, the ''parfumerie'' established with his venture capital, and successful because of the Chanel name.
In Switzerland, the news revived Coco Chanel's resentment at having been exploited by her business partner, for only ten per cent of the money. So she established a rival Swiss ''parfumerie'' to create, produce, and sell ''her'' "Chanel perfumes". In turn, Wertheimer, the majority capital stock owner of Parfums Chanel, saw his business interests threatened, and his commercial rights infringed because he did not possess legally exclusive rights to the Chanel name. Nonetheless, Wertheimer avoided a trademark infringement lawsuit against Coco Chanel, lest it damage the commercial reputation and the artistic credibility of ''his'' Chanel-brand ''parfumerie''.
Pierre Wertheimer settled his business and commercial-rights quarrel with Chanel, and, in May 1947, they renegotiated the 1924 contract that had established Parfums Chanel – she was paid $400,000 in cash (wartime profits from the sales of perfume No. 5 de Chanel); assigned a 2.0 per cent running royalty from the sales of No. 5 ''parfumerie''; assigned limited commercial rights to sell ''her'' "Chanel perfumes" in Switzerland; and granted a perpetual monthly stipend that paid all of her expenses. In exchange, Gabrielle Chanel closed her Swiss ''parfumerie'' enterprise, and sold to Parfums Chanel the full rights to the name "Coco Chanel".
;Resurgence (1950s–1970s)

In 1953, upon returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found the fashion business enamoured of the "
New Look" (1947), by
Christian Dior
Christian Ernest Dior (; 21 January 1905 – 24 October 1957) was a French fashion designer and founder of one of the world's top fashion houses, Dior, Christian Dior SE. His fashion house is known all around the world, having gained promi ...
; the signature shape featured a below-mid-calf-length, full-skirt, a narrow waist, and a large bust (stylistically absent since 1912). As a post–war fashion that used some 20 yards of fabric, the
House of Dior couture renounced wartime rationing of fabric for clothes.
In 1947 – after the six-year austerities of the
Second World War
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
(1939–45) – the New Look was welcomed by the fashion business of Western Europe because sales of the pretty clothes would revive business and the economy.
To regain the business primacy of the House of Chanel, in the fashion fields of ''haute couture'', ''prêt-à-porter'', costume jewellery, and ''parfumerie'', would be expensive; so Chanel approached Pierre Wertheimer for business advice and capital.
Having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer's negotiations to fund the resurgence of the House of Chanel, granted him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products.
In 1953, Chanel collaborated with jeweler
Robert Goossens; he was to design jewelry (bijouterie and gemstone) to complement the fashions of the House of Chanel; notably, long-strand necklaces of black pearls and of white pearls, which high contrast softened the severe design of the knitted-wool Chanel Suit (skirt and cardigan jacket).
The House of Chanel also presented leather handbags with either gold-colour chains or metal-and-leather chains, which allowed carrying the handbag from the shoulder or in hand. The quilted-leather handbag was presented to the public in February 1955. In-house, the numeric version of the launching date "
Chanel 2.55" for that line of handbags became the internal "appellation" for that model of the quilted-leather handbag.
The firm's initial venture into masculine ''parfumerie'' was an
eau de toilette called Pour Monsieur. Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957
Fashion Awards in Dallas. Pierre Wertheimer bought Bader's 20 per cent share of the Parfums Chanel, which increased the Wertheimer percentage to 90 per cent.

Later, in 1965, Pierre's son,
Jacques Wertheimer, assumed his father's management of the ''parfumerie''.
About the past business relationship, between Pierre Wertheimer and Coco Chanel, the Chanel attorney, Chambrun said that it had been "one based on a businessman's passion, despite her misplaced feelings of exploitation . . .
huswhen Pierre returned to Paris, full of pride and excitement
fter one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."
Coco Chanel died on 10 January 1971, at the age of 87.
She was still designing at the time of her death.
For example, in the (1966–1969) period, she designed the air hostess uniforms for
Olympic Airways, the designer who followed her was
Pierre Cardin. In that time, Olympic Airways was a luxury airline, owned by the transport magnate
Aristotle Onassis
Aristotle Socrates Onassis (, ; , ; 20 January 1906 – 15 March 1975) was a Greek and Argentine business magnate. He amassed the world's largest privately-owned shipping fleet and was one of the world's richest and most famous men. He was marri ...
. After her death, the leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourgé.
So far, the bags designed by Chanel are still very popular in the vintage market.
After a period of time, Jacques Wertheimer bought the controlling interest of the House of Chanel.
Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company, as he was more interested in horse breeding.
In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.
Alain Wertheimer, son of Jacques Wertheimer, assumed control of Chanel S.A. in 1974.
In the U.S., No. 5 de Chanel was not selling well.
Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased.
He used famous people to endorse the perfume – from
Marilyn Monroe
Marilyn Monroe ( ; born Norma Jeane Mortenson; June 1, 1926 August 4, 1962) was an American actress and model. Known for playing comic "Blonde stereotype#Blonde bombshell, blonde bombshell" characters, she became one of the most popular sex ...
to
Audrey Tautou. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded
Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house
Chloé. Chanel has partnered with friends and ambassadors over the years including notable actors, musicians, and other artists:
G-Dragon
Kwon Ji-yong (; born August 18, 1988), best known as G-Dragon (), is a South Korean rapper, singer, songwriter, and entrepreneur, known as the "Honorific nicknames in popular music, King of K-pop". Born and raised in Seoul, South Korea, G-Drag ...
,
Jennie,
Angèle,
Whitney Peak,
Caroline de Maigret,
Margaret Qualley,
Victoria Song,
Wang Yibo,
Minji,
Go Youn-jung,
Lily-Rose Depp,
Keira Knightley
Keira Christina Knightley ( ; born 26 March 1985) is an English actress. Known for her work in independent films and Blockbuster (entertainment), blockbusters, particularly Historical drama, period dramas, she has received List of awards and no ...
,
Kristen Stewart,
Marion Cotillard,
Nicole Kidman
Nicole Mary Kidman (born 20 June 1967) is an Australian and American actress and producer. Known for Nicole Kidman on screen and stage, her work in film and television productions across many genres, she has consistently ranked among the world ...
, and
Penélope Cruz.
Post-Coco era (1980s–present)


In 1981, Chanel launched Antaeus, an ''eau de toilette'' for men. In 1983
Karl Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. Like Chanel, he looked into the past as inspiration for his designs. He incorporated the Chanel fabrics and detailing such as tweed, gold accents, and chains. Lagerfeld retained what was signature for Chanel but also helped bring the brand into the present. In later collections Lagerfeld chose to break away from the ladylike look of Chanel and began to experiment with fabrics and styles. During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques opened worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, the boutiques sold goods ranging from US$200-per-ounce perfume, US$225 ballerina slippers to US$11,000 dresses and US$2,000 leather handbags. Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were distributed only by Chanel outlets. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained the firm's approach, saying, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." 1984 saw the launch of a new fragrance in honor of the founder, ''
Coco''. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch debuted. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to
New York City
New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
.
Maison de Chanel increased the Wertheimer family fortune to US$5 billion. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion.
In 1994, Chanel had a net profit equivalent to €67 million on the sale of €570 million in ready-to-wear clothes and was the most profitable French fashion house.
In 1996, Chanel bought gun-makers
Holland & Holland, but failed in its attempt to revamp the firm.
The swimwear label Eres was also purchased in 1996. Chanel launched the perfumes Allure in 1996 and Allure Homme in 1998. The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, Précision, in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a travel collection, and under a license contract with
Luxottica
Luxottica Group S.p.A. is an Italian glasses, eyewear multinational corporation headquartered in Milan. As a vertically integrated company, Luxottica designs, manufactures, distributes, and retails its eyewear brands through its own subsidiaries ...
, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.
While Wertheimer remained chairman, Françoise Montenay became CEO and President. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12. In 2001, watchmaker Bell & Ross was acquired. The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. Chanel launched a small selection of menswear as a part of their runway shows.
In 2002, Chanel launched the Chance perfume and
Paraffection, a subsidiary company originally established in 1997 to support artisanal manufacturing, that gathered together Ateliers d'Art or workshops including Desrues for ornamentation and buttons, Lemarié for feathers,
Lesage for embroidery, Massaro for shoemaking and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection was designed by Karl Lagerfeld.
In July 2002, a jewelry and watch outlet opened on
Madison Avenue
Madison Avenue is a north-south avenue in the borough of Manhattan in New York City, New York, that carries northbound one-way traffic. It runs from Madison Square (at 23rd Street) to meet the southbound Harlem River Drive at 142nd Stree ...
. Within months, a shoe/handbag boutique opened next door. Chanel continued to expand in the United States and by December 2002, operated 25 U.S. boutiques.
Chanel introduced
Coco Mademoiselle and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003, targeting younger women, opened a second shop on Rue Cambon, opened a boutique in
Central, Hong Kong
Central (Chinese: 中環), also known as Central District, is the central business district of Hong Kong. It is located in the northeastern corner of the Central and Western District, on the north shore of Hong Kong Island, across Victoria Har ...
, and paid nearly US$50 million for a building in
Ginza
Ginza ( ; ) is a district of Chūō, Tokyo, Chūō, Tokyo, located south of Yaesu and Kyōbashi, Tokyo, Kyōbashi, west of Tsukiji, east of Yūrakuchō and Uchisaiwaichō, and north of Shinbashi. It is a popular upscale shopping area of Tokyo ...
, Tokyo.
In 2007,
Maureen Chiquet was appointed CEO. She remained CEO until her termination in 2016.
In 2018, Chanel announced relocation of its global headquarters to London. In December of the same year, Chanel announced that it would ban fur and exotic skins from its collections.
In February 2019, Lagerfeld died at age 85.
Virginie Viard, who had worked with Lagerfeld at the fashion house for over 30 years, was named the new Creative Director. Viard departed the brand in June 2024.
In December 2021,
Leena Nair was appointed Global Chief Executive Officer.
In February 2024, Chanel opened its U.S. flagship store dedicated to watches and fine jewellery on
Fifth Avenue
Fifth Avenue is a major thoroughfare in the borough (New York City), borough of Manhattan in New York City. The avenue runs south from 143rd Street (Manhattan), West 143rd Street in Harlem to Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village. The se ...
in
Midtown Manhattan
Manhattan ( ) is the most densely populated and geographically smallest of the Boroughs of New York City, five boroughs of New York City. Coextensive with New York County, Manhattan is the County statistics of the United States#Smallest, larg ...
,
New York City
New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
, near
Billionaires' Row.
In December 2024,
Matthieu Blazy was appointed the next Artistic Director of Chanel. Previously, he was creative director of Italian leather goods line
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta S.r.l () is an Italian luxury fashion house based in Milan, Italy. Its product lines include ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes, accessories, jewellery and fragrances.
Bottega Veneta is headquartered in Milan, Italy, with its main at ...
where his work garnered critical acclaim and commercial success.
Exhibitions and retrospectives
The
Palais Galliera featured a retrospective Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto (October 1, 2020 – August 17, 2021). The exhibit later traveled to
Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum in Tokyo,
National Gallery of Victoria
The National Gallery of Victoria, popularly known as the NGV, is an art museum in Melbourne, Victoria (state), Victoria, Australia. Founded in 1861, it is Australia's oldest and list of most visited art museums in the world, most visited art mu ...
in Melbourne (December 3, 2021 – April 25, 2022), and will debut at London's
Victoria & Albert Museum (September 16, 2023).
The
ThyssenBornemisza National Museum in
Madrid
Madrid ( ; ) is the capital and List of largest cities in Spain, most populous municipality of Spain. It has almost 3.5 million inhabitants and a Madrid metropolitan area, metropolitan area population of approximately 7 million. It i ...
explored the relationship and reciprocal influence between Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle Chanel with a four-part exhibition (October 11, 2022 – January 15, 2023) spanning their works between 1915 and 1925.
The
Metropolitan Museum of Art
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, colloquially referred to as the Met, is an Encyclopedic museum, encyclopedic art museum in New York City. By floor area, it is the List of largest museums, third-largest museum in the world and the List of larg ...
, home to the annual
Met Gala
The Met Gala, formally called the Costume Institute Benefit, is the annual haute couture fundraising festival held for the benefit of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute in Manhattan. The Met Gala was and still is popularly rega ...
in the
financial
Finance refers to monetary resources and to the study and Academic discipline, discipline of money, currency, assets and Liability (financial accounting), liabilities. As a subject of study, is a field of Business administration, Business Admin ...
and
fashion capital
A fashion capital is a city with major influence on the international fashion scene, from history, heritage, designers, trends, and styles, to manufacturing innovation and retailing of fashion products, including events such as fashion weeks, ...
of
New York City
New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
, first honoured the house with a (May 5-August 7) 2005 exhibit chronicling the work of Coco Chanel's designs dating back to the 1920s. The museum's
Costume Institute
The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art The Met Fifth Avenue, main building in Manhattan that houses the collection of the Costume Institute, a curatorial department of the museum focused on fashion and costume ...
will unveil a posthumous retrospective, paying homage to former Creative Director,
Karl Lagerfeld (May 5-July 16).
Philanthropy, sustainability, arts and culture
Fondation Chanel is the philanthropic arm of the house. Founded in 2011, some of the organization's key initiatives include promoting greater healthcare advocacy; addressing the disparities in gender-based violence; and "accelerating economic agency and empowerment". Fondation Chanel has partnered with organizations in Africa, Asia, Europe, Latin America, the United Kingdom, and the United States.
Chanel announced (June 2021) an anchor investment in the Landscape Resilience Fund, contributing $25 million to farmers grappling with the impacts of climate change. Setting a new series of science-based targets, the company also launched the No.1 de Chanel beauty and fragrance line in 2022, with 97% naturally derived ingredients and eco-conscious packaging designed. The house also announced goals in accordance with the
Paris Climate Agreement to reduce its carbon footprint by 50% by 2030 and reduce its emissions from value chain by 40% by 2030. As part of the Chanel Mission 1.5 Climate Action Plan, the brand has pledged to transition to 100% renewable electricity by 2025. The company is also sourcing eco-responsible tweeds; shifting to maritime transport with a goal of 80% shipments by sea by 2024; and supporting land and livlihood projects throughout communities in Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America. In January 2024, Chanel launched an initiative with the consortium of 15 cosmetics-manufacturers, called the Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetics to catalyze traceability in the cosmetics sector.
Arts and culture
The Chanel Culture Fund is a global program of initiatives and partnerships. Since its inception, the House has partnered with the
National Portrait Gallery (London),
The Centre Pompidou (Paris), and the
Power Station
A power station, also referred to as a power plant and sometimes generating station or generating plant, is an industrial facility for the electricity generation, generation of electric power. Power stations are generally connected to an electr ...
(Shanghai). The Fund awards an annual prize (Chanel Next Prize) of €100,000 to ten artists in the fields of performing and visual arts.
Yana Peel, global head of arts and culture said of the Fund in an interview with Harper's Bazaar, "At a time when we are navigating our way through complex new environments around the world, we know that artists generate transformative ideas that help us envision the way forward. Chanel has always championed the vitality and advancement of the arts, and we now expand that tradition through the Fund with a focus on supporting cultural innovators and path-breakers who are mapping out what's next."
Corporate identity
The Chanel logotype comprises two interlocked, opposed letters-C, one faced left, one faced right. The logotype was given to Chanel by the Château de Crémat, Nice, and was not registered as a trademark until the first Chanel shops were established.
The logo is commonly known to stand for "Coco Chanel" and has become one of the most recognizable logos in the world. It has also become the symbol of prestige, luxury, and class.
In 2022, Chanel donated €2 million towards
Care
Care may refer to:
Organizations and projects
* CARE (New Zealand), Citizens Association for Racial Equality, a former New Zealand organisation
* CARE (England) West Midlands, Central Accident Resuscitation Emergency team, a team of doctors & ...
and
UNHCR
The Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) is a United Nations agency mandated to aid and Humanitarian protection, protect refugees, Internally displaced person, forcibly displaced communities, and Statelessness, s ...
, the money will go to Ukraine to help it during the
Russian invasion.
Worldwide, Chanel S.A. operates around 310 Chanel boutiques; 94 in Asia, 70 in Europe, 10 in the Middle East, 128 in North America, 1 in Central America, 2 in South America, and 6 in Oceania. The shops are located in wealthy communities, usually in department stores like
Harrods
Harrods is a Listed building, Grade II listed luxury department store on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge, London, England. It was designed by C. W. Stephens for Charles Digby Harrod, and opened in 1905; it replaced the first store on the ground ...
and
Selfridges,
Bergdorf Goodman
Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is an American luxury department store based in New York City, founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf. , it operates a women's store and a men's store across the street from each other on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. ...
,
Neiman Marcus and
Saks Fifth Avenue
Saks Fifth Avenue (Colloquialism, colloquially Saks) is an American Luxury goods, luxury department store chain founded in 1867 by Andrew Saks. The first store opened in the F Street and 7th Street shopping districts, F Street shopping distric ...
, high streets, shopping districts, and inside airports.
In 2015, the company paid a record $152 million for 400 North
Rodeo Drive in
Beverly Hills
Beverly Hills is a city located in Los Angeles County, California, United States. A notable and historic suburb of Los Angeles, it is located just southwest of the Hollywood Hills, approximately northwest of downtown Los Angeles. Beverly Hil ...
. This is the most expensive amount paid for retail space in Los Angeles. In October 2020, the company bought its flagship
Bond Street
Bond Street in the West End of London links Piccadilly in the south to Oxford Street in the north. Since the 18th century the street has housed many prestigious and upmarket fashion retailers. The southern section is Old Bond Street and the l ...
boutique in London for £310 million.
Trademarks
One timeline measurement for Chanel presence in the United States is via trademarks registered with the
United States Patent and Trademark Office
The United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) is an List of federal agencies in the United States, agency in the United States Department of Commerce, U.S. Department of Commerce that serves as the national patent office and trademark ...
(USPTO). On Tuesday, 18 November 1924, Chanel, Inc. filed trademark applications for the typeset mark ''Chanel'' and for the interlocking ''CC'' design plus word mark. At that time, the trademarks were registered only for the perfume, toiletry, and cosmetic products in the primary class of common metals and their alloys. Chanel provided the description of ''face powder, perfume, Eau de Cologne, toilet water, lip stick, and
rouge,'' to the USPTO.
The Chanel and double-C trademarks were awarded on the same date of 24 February 1925 with respective Serial Numbers of 71205468 and 71205469. The first trademark application for the No. 5 perfume was on Thursday, 1 April 1926, described as perfume and toilet water. First use and commercial use was stated as 1 January 1921. Registration was granted on 20 July 1926 with Serial Number 71229497.
Combatting counterfeits
Along with other makers, Chanel is a target of counterfeiters. An authentic classic Chanel handbag retails from around US$4,150, while a counterfeit usually costs around US$200. Beginning in the 1990s, all authentic Chanel handbags were numbered.
In 2018, Chanel filed suit in the Federal District Court of the Southern District of New York, alleging The RealReal was hosting counterfeit (fake) Chanel products on their website and implying to customers that an affiliation existed between the two.
Due to the high volume of Chanel counterfeits, the legal department at Chanel has set up a website to educate consumers about "Spotting Fake vs Authentic CHANEL Products". Many fashion bloggers are spreading awareness about identifying fake luxury items such as Chanel's products.
File:Chanel logo interlocking cs.svg, Two interlocking Cs for "Coco Chanel", introduced ca. 1990
File:OrigChanel-No5logo1926-trademarkia.jpeg, Perfume label trademark "No. 5 de Chanel" and font, introduced in 1926
File:Orig-ChanelWordlogo1924-trademarkia.jpg, Logo name and font, introduced in 1924
File:Chanel logo-no words.svg, Interlocking Cs used on Chanel products
Products
Handbag
Introduced in 1955, the Chanel 2.55 handbag revolutionized women's fashion by incorporating a shoulder strap, allowing for hands-free use. Over the years, Chanel has consistently updated its handbag designs while maintaining their classic appeal. For instance, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld introduced the 11.12 handbag, featuring the now-iconic double-C logo.
Chanel's pricing strategy has involved regular increases to reinforce the brand's exclusivity. The Classic Flap bag, for example, has seen its price rise from $220 at its inception to over $10,000 in recent years. These adjustments are influenced by factors such as rising material and labor costs, as well as strategic pricing decisions to maintain the brand's luxury positioning.
Fragrance
In 1924,
Pierre Wertheimer founded Parfums Chanel, to produce and sell perfumes and cosmetics; the ''parfumerie'' proved to be the most profitable business division of the Chanel S.A. corporation.
Since its establishment, ''parfumerie'' Chanel has employed four
perfumers:
*
Ernest Beaux (1920–1961)
*
Henri Robert (1958–1978)
*
Jacques Polge (1978–2015)
* Olivier Polge (2015–present)
Perfumes
Colognes
Makeup and skincare
Cosmetics are the most accessible Chanel product, with counters in department stores across the world, including
Harrods
Harrods is a Listed building, Grade II listed luxury department store on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge, London, England. It was designed by C. W. Stephens for Charles Digby Harrod, and opened in 1905; it replaced the first store on the ground ...
,
Galeries Lafayette,
Bergdorf Goodman
Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is an American luxury department store based in New York City, founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf. , it operates a women's store and a men's store across the street from each other on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. ...
,
Hudson's Bay and
David Jones, Wojooh,
Selfridges,
John Lewis & Partners
John Lewis plc (trading as John Lewis & Partners) is a British department store chain founded by John Lewis in 1864. It is part of the John Lewis Partnership, John Lewis Partnership plc, a holding company held in a trust on behalf of its emplo ...
and
Boots
A boot is a type of footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg, sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearl ...
as well as its own beauty boutiques.
Products lines
Fine jewellery
Chanel 'High Jewellery' was founded in November 1932. Chanel debuted 'Bijoux de Diamants' at her Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris mansion. It was also the first high-end jewelry collection created by a fashion designer. The 'Bijoux de Diamants' was inspired by celestial forms such as stars, comets, and the moon. Gabrielle Chanel designed an estimated 50 pieces with white and yellow diamonds set in platinum and yellow gold. The collection, a collaboration with the London Diamond Corporation, aimed to revitalize the diamond trade during the Great Depression. In 2012, the company created a special collection to celebrate Diamants' 80th anniversary. Current collections include High Jewelry, Camelia, Comete, Coco Crush, Baroque, 1932, Ultra, Bridal and Jewelry Watches.
Watches
The Chanel
wristwatch
A watch is a timepiece carried or worn by a person. It is designed to maintain a consistent movement despite the motions caused by the person's activities. A wristwatch is worn around the wrist, attached by a watch strap or another type of ...
division was established in 1987.
[Roulet, Christophe]
The Chanel J12, from here to eternity
, The Watch Avenue, 22 June 2009. Retrieved 9 April 2012 In 1995, division presented a second design, the ''Matelassé''.
[ Although the ''Première'' and ''Matelassé'' wristwatches were successful products, the presentation, in 2000, of the '' Chanel J12'' line of unisex style wristwatches, made of ceramic materials, established Chanel wristwatches as a Chanel marque.][ The J12 line of wristwatches features models in four dial-face sizes: 33mm, 38mm, 41mm, and 42mm.][Maillard, Pierre]
Chanel, watchmaking legitimacy
, Europa Star, 5 January 2009. Retrieved 9 April 2011 In 2008, Chanel S.A. and Audemars Piguet developed the ceramic
A ceramic is any of the various hard, brittle, heat-resistant, and corrosion-resistant materials made by shaping and then firing an inorganic, nonmetallic material, such as clay, at a high temperature. Common examples are earthenware, porcela ...
Chanel AP-3125 clockwork, exclusive to the House of Chanel.
As of 2024, Chanel holds 25% stake in MB&F, 20% in F. P. Journe and undisclosed stake in Romain Gauthier.
Wine
Chanel owns the wineries Château Rauzan-Ségla, Château Canon, St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery, and Domaine de i'lle located on the island of Porquerolles in the Cotes de Provence AOP.
Swimwear
In 2018, Chanel acquired clothing brand Orlebar Brown, specializing in tailored men's swim shorts.
Gallery
File:Chanel 2.55.jpg, Chanel handbag in quilted-leather with adjustable double-chains to wear on the arm or shoulder.
File:1965 Chanel suit and silk blouse detail2.jpg, A 1965 Chanel suit showing the chain that is a distinctive technique for constructing a Chanel suit. It gives even light-weight materials a good drape and stabilize the suit as it weighs down the hem.
File:Baudouin 1969.jpg, Belgian King Baudouin and Queen Fabiola visit the Nixon White House with a quilted leather Chanel handbag in 1969.
File:Chanel Original Robot Clutch.jpg, Chanel original Robot clutch
See also
* Belle Époque
The Belle Époque () or La Belle Époque () was a period of French and European history that began after the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and continued until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Occurring during the era of the Fr ...
* Chanel ready-to-wear collection
* Pink Chanel suit of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy
References
External links
*
{{Authority control
Clothing brands of France
Clothing companies based in Paris
Clothing retailers of France
Fashion accessory brands
Haute couture
High fashion brands
Cosmetics brands
Cosmetics companies of France
Eyewear brands of France
Jewellery retailers of France
Perfume houses
Watch brands
Watch manufacturing companies of France
Manufacturing companies based in Paris
Clothing companies established in 1909
Design companies established in 1909
French companies established in 1909
Privately held companies of France
Comité Colbert members
Wertheimer family