Celia Fiennes (7 June 1662 – 10 April 1741) was an English traveller and writer. She explored England on horseback at a time when travel for its own sake was unusual, especially for women.
Early life
Born at
Newton Tony,
Wiltshire
Wiltshire (; abbreviated to Wilts) is a ceremonial county in South West England. It borders Gloucestershire to the north, Oxfordshire to the north-east, Berkshire to the east, Hampshire to the south-east, Dorset to the south, and Somerset to ...
,
["June 7th 1662. Birth of Celia Fiennes". ''History Today'' LXII/6, June 2012, p. 9.] she was the daughter of
Nathaniel Fiennes, a politician and in the
English Civil War
The English Civil War or Great Rebellion was a series of civil wars and political machinations between Cavaliers, Royalists and Roundhead, Parliamentarians in the Kingdom of England from 1642 to 1651. Part of the wider 1639 to 1653 Wars of th ...
a
Parliamentarian colonel, and his second wife, Frances née Whitehead. Nathaniel was in turn the second son of
William Fiennes, 1st Viscount Saye and Sele, and father of the 3rd viscount.
Career
Pioneering traveller
Fiennes never married. In 1691 she moved to London, where she had a married sister. She travelled around England on horseback between 1684 and about 1703, "to regain my health by variety and change of aire and exercise" (''Journeys''). At this time the idea of travel for its own sake was still novel, and Fiennes was exceptional as an enthusiastic woman traveller. Sometimes she travelled with relatives, but she made her "Great Journey to
Newcastle and
Cornwall
Cornwall (; or ) is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in South West England. It is also one of the Celtic nations and the homeland of the Cornish people. The county is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, ...
" of 1698 accompanied only by one or two servants. Her travels continued intermittently until at least 1712 and took her through most of England.
Tours and memoirs
Fiennes worked up her notes into a travel memoir in 1702, which she never published, being intended only for family reading. It provides a vivid portrait of a still largely
unenclosed countryside with few and primitive roads, although signposts ("posts and hands pointing to each road with the names of the great towns or market towns that it leads to") were appearing.
Robert Southey published extracts in 1812, and the first complete edition appeared in 1888 under the title ''Through England on a Side Saddle''. A scholarly edition called ''The Journeys of Celia Fiennes'' was produced by Christopher Morris in 1947. Since then the book has remained in print in various editions.
Fiennes was interested in anything new, in innovations, bustling towns, the newly fashionable
spa town
A spa town is a resort town based on a mineral spa (a developed mineral spring). Patrons visit spas to "take the waters" for their purported health benefits.
Thomas Guidott set up a medical practice in the English town of Bath, Somerset, Ba ...
s such as
Bath and
Harrogate
Harrogate ( ) is a spa town and civil parish in the North Yorkshire District, district and North Yorkshire, county of North Yorkshire, England. Historic counties of England, Historically in the West Riding of Yorkshire, the town is a tourist de ...
, and in commerce. Fiennes's patriotic justification for domestic tourism and her interest in the "production and manufactures of each place" anticipated the genre of "economic tourism", which became formalised with
Daniel Defoe
Daniel Defoe (; born Daniel Foe; 1660 – 24 April 1731) was an English writer, merchant and spy. He is most famous for his novel ''Robinson Crusoe'', published in 1719, which is claimed to be second only to the Bible in its number of translati ...
's professional and survey-like ''A Tour through the Whole Island of Great Britain'' (1724–1726). The economic tourist would become a staple of
travel writing throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.
Fiennes saw many of the finest
baroque
The Baroque ( , , ) is a Western Style (visual arts), style of Baroque architecture, architecture, Baroque music, music, Baroque dance, dance, Baroque painting, painting, Baroque sculpture, sculpture, poetry, and other arts that flourished from ...
English country house
image:Blenheim - Blenheim Palace - 20210417125239.jpg, 300px, Blenheim Palace - Oxfordshire
An English country house is a large house or mansion in the English countryside. Such houses were often owned by individuals who also owned a Townhou ...
s while they were still under construction. Despite the widespread notion that the habit of visiting "stately homes" set in after the
Second World War
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
, many have been accessible to travellers of higher social standing since Fiennes' time if not earlier, and her comments are among the most interesting sources of information about them. At
Stonehenge
Stonehenge is a prehistoric Megalith, megalithic structure on Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire, England, west of Amesbury. It consists of an outer ring of vertical sarsen standing stones, each around high, wide, and weighing around 25 tons, to ...
she counted the exact number of stones and at
Harrogate
Harrogate ( ) is a spa town and civil parish in the North Yorkshire District, district and North Yorkshire, county of North Yorkshire, England. Historic counties of England, Historically in the West Riding of Yorkshire, the town is a tourist de ...
visited "the sulphur or stinking spaw". She also clambered over the rocks at
Land's End.
Remembered
Fiennes died in
Hackney in 1741. Her travels formed the subject of a play, ''Riding England Sidesaddle'' by
Christopher Goulding, which was first performed at the
People's Theatre, Newcastle upon Tyne in 1992, starring
Andrea Riseborough as the young Celia Fiennes and Gordon Russell as her father.
See also
*"
Ride a cock horse to Banbury Cross"
References
Further reading
*''The Journeys of Celia Fiennes''. Several modern print editions are available, some of them illustrated.
*Derek J. Taylor, ''England from a Side-Saddle: The Great Journeys of Celia Fiennes'' (The History Press, 2021).
External links
*
The Daily Telegraph
''The Daily Telegraph'', known online and elsewhere as ''The Telegraph'', is a British daily broadsheet conservative newspaper published in London by Telegraph Media Group and distributed in the United Kingdom and internationally. It was found ...
�
''Great British journeys'' Nicholas Crane. Writing about his forthcoming televised recreation of Fiennes 'Great Journey to Newcastle and to Cornwall' in 1698. Dated 2007-08-11. Retrieved 2007-08-30.
*Full text o
Celia Fiennes: ''Through England on a Side Saddle in the time of William & Mary''o
''A Vision of Britain through Time'' with links to the places mentioned.
by Celia Fiennes (1662-1741) with an introduction by Emily Wingfield Griffiths (1828–1917) London: Field and Tuer, Leadenhall Press, 1888.
{{DEFAULTSORT:Fiennes, Celia
1662 births
1741 deaths
English travel writers
Cecil
English women travel writers
Writers about England
18th-century English non-fiction writers
17th-century English diarists
18th-century English diarists