Camp 4 is a tent-only
campground
Campsite, campground, and camping pitch are all related terms regarding a place used for camping (an overnight stay in an outdoor area). The usage differs between British English and American English.
In British English, a ''campsite'' is an ...
in
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a List of national parks of the United States, national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The p ...
in the United States.
It became notable after
World War II
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
as "a birthplace of rock climbing’s modern age."
It is located at an elevation of 4000 ft (1200 m) on the north side of the
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley ( ; ''Yosemite'', Miwok for "killer") is a U-shaped valley, glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada mountains of Central California, United States. The valley is about long a ...
, close to base of granite cliffs near
Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in Yosemite National Park, dropping a total of from the top of the upper fall to the base of the lower fall. Located in the Sierra Nevada (U.S.), Sierra Nevada of California, it is a major attraction in t ...
.
Nearby
boulder
In geology, a boulder (or rarely bowlder) is a rock fragment with size greater than in diameter. Smaller pieces are called cobbles and pebbles. While a boulder may be small enough to move or roll manually, others are extremely massive. In ...
s have long been used for
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
, including the
Columbia Boulder, which is known for the boulder problem called the ''
Midnight Lightning
''Midnight Lightning'' is a posthumous compilation album by American rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix. It was released in November 1975 by Reprise Records in the US and Polydor Records in the UK. It was the second to be produced by Alan Douglas and T ...
,'' first done by
Ron Kauk
Ron Kauk (born 23 September 1957) is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California.
In 1975, he made the first free ascent of the east face of W ...
in 1978. It is easily recognizable by a painting of a white
thunderbolt
A thunderbolt or lightning bolt is a symbolic representation of lightning when accompanied by a loud thunderclap. In Indo-European mythology, the thunderbolt was identified with the 'Sky Father'; this association is also found in later Hel ...
next to it.
History
Physically unimpressive, Camp 4 nevertheless "served as a seedbed for the exchange of ideas, training and the development of new equipment that vastly improved the speed and safety of climbing" (LA Times) during the time from after World War II until around 1970.
Dozens of the most famous climbers in the world congregated at Camp 4 for years, learning from each other and trying out new ideas on Yosemite walls such as
Half Dome
Half Dome is a quartz monzonite batholith at the eastern end of Yosemite Valley in Yosemite National Park, California. It is a well-known rock formation in the park, named for its distinct shape. One side is a sheer face while the other three s ...
and
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
.
Yvon Chouinard
Yvon Chouinard (born November 9, 1938) is an American rock climber, environmentalist, and businessman. His company, Patagonia, sells outdoor products, outerwear, and food. He was named one of the 100 most influential people in the world by '' ...
(today known as founder of the outdoor clothing retailer
Patagonia, Inc.) prototyped new kinds of
climbing equipment
Climbing equipment refers to a broad range of manufactured gear that is used in the activity or sport of climbing.
Notable groups include:
* Alpine climbing equipment as is used in alpine climbing and mountaineering
* Deep-water soloing equipme ...
in Camp 4 using an old anvil, and sold them in the nearby parking lot.
In 1960,
Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins (February 3, 1935 – March 14, 2017) was one of the pioneers of American rock climbing.
After learning to climb at Tahquitz Rock, Robbins went on to make first ascents of many big wall routes in Yosemite. As an early proponent o ...
met future wife
Liz Robbins in Camp 4.
From the 1970s on, a new group of climbers led by
Jim Bridwell
Jim Bridwell (July 29, 1944 – February 16, 2018) was an American rock climber and mountaineer, active from 1965 in Yosemite Valley, but later in Patagonia and Alaska. He was noted for pushing the standards of both aid climbing and big wall ...
and others based at Camp 4 (known as the "Stone Masters" from 1973 to 80) introduced a more athletic approach to climbing and popularized
free climbing
Free climbing is a form of rock climbing in which the climber can only use climbing equipment for climbing protection but not as an artificial aid to help them in ascending the route. Free climbing, therefore, cannot use any of the tools that ...
.
In the 1990s, Camp 4 was the site of ongoing friction between climbers and the
National Park Service
The National Park Service (NPS) is an List of federal agencies in the United States, agency of the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government, within the US Department of the Interior. The service manages all List ...
. The conflict came to a head in 1997, when flooding in Yosemite Valley destroyed many employee housing units and the Park Service proposed to build a three-story dormitory complex near Camp 4.
With the support of other activists, rock climber and climbing equipment manufacturer
Tom Frost
Thomas "Tom" M. Frost (June 30, 1936 – August 24, 2018) was an American rock climbing, rock climber known for big wall climbing first ascents in Yosemite Valley. He was also a photographer and Rock-climbing equipment, climbing equipment manufa ...
initiated a lawsuit against the Park Service, arguing that the buildings would disturb the camp's natural setting. The suit was joined by the
American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is a non-profit member organization with more than 26,000 members. The club is housed in the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden, Colorado.
Through its members, the AAC advocates for American climbers d ...
.
[ As part of their attempt to stop the construction project, Frost and his attorney Dick Duane also filed an application to have Camp 4 listed on the ]National Register of Historic Places
The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government's official United States National Register of Historic Places listings, list of sites, buildings, structures, Hist ...
.[ The park officials ultimately agreed to stop the development plans and to support the NRHP application, which was granted in 2003, based on the camp's "significant association with the growth and development of rock climbing in the Yosemite Valley during the 'golden years' of pioneer mountaineering".]
From 1971 to 1999, Camp 4 was officially known as ''Sunnyside Walk-in Campground'', but has been since renamed Camp 4 in recognition of its historic status. During this era, however, the campsite was known colloquially to climbers as Camp 4. Throughout the period, the campground was the seasonal residence of many of Yosemite Valley's most prominent climbers.
A 2012 rockfall hazard report concluded that several campsites on the northern side of Camp 4 needed to be relocated to achieve adequate safety for climbers.
The 2014 documentary Valley Uprising
Sender Films is an American film production company based in Boulder, Colorado. Productions include outdoor adventure films, television shows, and commercials.
Company
Sender Films integrates action with story-telling to create climbing/ ...
features veterans of Camp 4 including Warren Harding
Warren Gamaliel Harding (November 2, 1865 – August 2, 1923) was the 29th president of the United States, serving from 1921 until his death in 1923. A member of the Republican Party, he was one of the most popular sitting U.S. presidents w ...
(dubbed "the original bad boy of Camp 4" for his risk-taking, rebellious attitude, and alcohol consumption), and Beverly Johnson
Beverly Ann Johnson (born October 13, 1952) is an American model, actress, singer, and businesswoman. Johnson rose to fame when she became the first Black model to appear on the cover of American '' Vogue'' in August 1974, after Donyale Luna w ...
(who in 1973 was part of the first all-female ascent of El Capitan).
Reservations and availability
Camp 4 does not offer traditional reservations at any time during the year, and the process for attaining a camping site differs depending on the season.
Mid-April through October
From April 13 through October 27, 2024, campsites will be available only by reservation via Recreation.gov one week in advance of your arrival date. Up to 6 people can be registered for a site per each reservation transaction. The camping fee is $10 per person per night.
November to mid-April
Camp 4 operates on a first-come, first-served basis, usually until sometime in April. The campground may fill early in the morning every day in spring and fall if weather is nice. The camping fee is $10 per night. In spring and fall, a line of those wishing to camp here typically forms at the campground kiosk early in the morning.
A total of 36 sites are available daily, each accommodating a maximum of six people (i.e., 216 spots total) at a cost of US$10 per person per night. Notably, the Park Service has imposed a 30-night camping limit within Yosemite National Park per calendar year; however, from 1 May to 15 September, the camping limit in Yosemite is 14 nights, with only seven of those nights allowed in Yosemite Valley or Wawona. Because of the popularity of the camp, the relatively small number of camp sites, and the lack of reservation availability, it can be difficult to be able to camp at this campground, except for the winter season, which is less busy.
See also
*
*
References
Further reading
* Kirk, Andrew and Charles Palmer, "When Nature Becomes Culture: The National Register and Yosemite's Camp 4," ''Western Historical Quarterly
The Western History Association (WHA), a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, was founded in 1961 at Santa Fe, New Mexico by Ray Allen Billington, et al. Included in the field of study are the American West and western Canada. The Western History ...
'' (Fall 2006)
* An earlier edition was titled simply ''Camp 4'' (1994, )
*
External links
Camp 4
Information on the website of the National Park Service
Camp 4 map
{{National Register of Historic Places
Campgrounds in Yosemite National Park
National Register of Historic Places in Mariposa County, California
National Register of Historic Places in Yosemite National Park
Park buildings and structures on the National Register of Historic Places in California
Temporary populated places on the National Register of Historic Places
Climbing areas of the United States