The calceus (pl. ''calcei'': cf Latin ''calx'' "ankle") was a mid-weight, outdoor walking "shoe-boot", worn in ancient Rome. It was flat-soled, usually hobnailed and entirely covered the foot and ankle, up to the lower shin. It was secured with crossed thongs or laces.
Lighter than the openwork
caligae favoured by the Roman military, ''calcei'' were considered a distinctive part of Rome's public, civilian "national dress", which centered on the
toga
The toga (, ), a distinctive garment of ancient Rome, was a roughly semicircular cloth, between in length, draped over the shoulders and around the body. It was usually woven from white wool, and was worn over a tunic. In Roman historical tr ...
as an exclusive mark of Roman male
citizenship
Citizenship is a "relationship between an individual and a state to which the individual owes allegiance and in turn is entitled to its protection".
Each state determines the conditions under which it will recognize persons as its citizens, and ...
. The ''calcei'' of most
ordinary citizens were probably a natural brown tanned leather. The
equestrian class had its own distinctive form of ''calceus'', with crescent-shaped buckles. Male citizens of
senatorial rank and office, including certain
priesthoods, were expected to wear a red-bordered
toga praetexta
The toga (, ), a distinctive garment of ancient Rome, was a roughly semicircular cloth, between in length, draped over the shoulders and around the body. It was usually woven from white wool, and was worn over a tunic. In Roman historical tr ...
and red ''calcei'' (s. ''mulleus calceus'') when engaged in their public duties.
The combination of toga and ''calcei'' was impressive, but also hot and uncomfortable; the Roman poet
Martial
Marcus Valerius Martialis (known in English as Martial ; March, between 38 and 41 AD – between 102 and 104 AD) was a Roman poet from Hispania (modern Spain) best known for his twelve books of ''Epigrams'', published in Rome between AD 86 an ...
claims that in their leisure time, and more relaxed surroundings of rural life, hardly anyone used it. Even in the city, some high-ranking citizens wore light, Greek-style sandals, rather than ''calcei'', to "go with the crowd".
[Edmonson, J. C., ''in'' Edmondson, J. C., and Keith, A., (Editors), ''Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture'', University of Toronto Press, 2008, pp. 45-47 and note 75]
See also
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Discalced
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Clothing in ancient Rome
Clothing in ancient Rome generally comprised a short-sleeved or sleeveless, knee-length tunic for men and boys, and a longer, usually sleeved tunic for women and girls. On formal occasions, adult male citizens could wear a woolen toga
The ...
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Soccus
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Solea
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Caligae
References
Roman-era clothing
Historical footwear
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