Buffalo Trace (road)
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The Vincennes Trace was a major trackway running through what are now the American states of
Kentucky Kentucky (, ), officially the Commonwealth of Kentucky, is a landlocked U.S. state, state in the Southeastern United States, Southeastern region of the United States. It borders Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio to the north, West Virginia to the ...
,
Indiana Indiana ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. It borders Lake Michigan to the northwest, Michigan to the north and northeast, Ohio to the east, the Ohio River and Kentucky to the s ...
, and
Illinois Illinois ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern United States. It borders on Lake Michigan to its northeast, the Mississippi River to its west, and the Wabash River, Wabash and Ohio River, Ohio rivers to its ...
. Originally formed by millions of migrating
bison A bison (: bison) is a large bovine in the genus ''Bison'' (from Greek, meaning 'wild ox') within the tribe Bovini. Two extant taxon, extant and numerous extinction, extinct species are recognised. Of the two surviving species, the American ...
, the Trace crossed the
Ohio River The Ohio River () is a river in the United States. It is located at the boundary of the Midwestern and Southern United States, flowing in a southwesterly direction from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, to its river mouth, mouth on the Mississippi Riv ...
near the
Falls of the Ohio The Falls of the Ohio National Wildlife Conservation Area is a national, bi-state area on the Ohio River near Louisville, Kentucky, in the United States, administered by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in partnership with the Indiana Department ...
and continued northwest to the
Wabash River The Wabash River () is a U.S. Geological Survey. National Hydrography Dataset high-resolution flowline dataThe National Map accessed May 13, 2011 river that drains most of the state of Indiana, and a significant part of Illinois, in the United ...
, near present-day
Vincennes Vincennes (; ) is a commune in the Val-de-Marne department in the eastern suburbs of Paris, France. It is located from the centre of Paris. Vincennes is famous for its castle: the Château de Vincennes. It is next to but does not include the ...
, before it crossed to what became known as Illinois. This buffalo migration route, often 12 to 20 feet wide in places, was well known and used by American Indians. Later European traders and American settlers learned of it, and many used it as an early land route to travel west into Indiana and Illinois. It is considered the most important of the traces to the Illinois country. It was known by various names, including Buffalo Trace, Louisville Trace, Clarksville Trace, and Old Indian Road. After being improved as a turnpike, the New Albany-Paoli Pike, among others. The Trace's continuous use encouraged improvements over the years, including paving and roadside development. U.S. Route 150 between Vincennes, Indiana, and
Louisville, Kentucky Louisville is the List of cities in Kentucky, most populous city in the Commonwealth of Kentucky, sixth-most populous city in the Southeastern United States, Southeast, and the list of United States cities by population, 27th-most-populous city ...
, follows a portion of this path. Sections of the improved Trace have been designated as part of a
National Scenic Byway A National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the United States Department of Transportation for one or more of six "intrinsic qualities": archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The program was established by Co ...
that crosses southern Indiana.


History

The Trace was created by millions of migrating bison that were numerous in the region from the Great Lakes to the Piedmont of North Carolina. It was part of a greater buffalo migration route that extended from present-day Big Bone Lick State Park in Kentucky, through
Bullitt's Lick Bullitt's Lick is a historic salt lick west of Shepherdsville, Kentucky, Shepherdsville in Bullitt County, Kentucky. It was the first commercial supplier of salt in Kentucky, and the first industry in Kentucky as well, supplying jobs for many res ...
, south of present-day Louisville, and across the Falls of the Ohio River to Indiana, then northwest to Vincennes, before crossing the Wabash River into Illinois. The trail was well known among the area's natives and used for centuries. It later became known and used by European traders and white settlers who crossed the Ohio River at the Falls and followed the Trace overland to the western territories. It is considered to be the most important of the early traces leading to the Illinois country. In Indiana the Trace's main line split into several smaller trails that converged north of
Jasper Jasper, an aggregate of microgranular quartz and/or cryptocrystalline chalcedony and other mineral phases, is an opaque, impure variety of silica, usually red, yellow, brown or green in color; and rarely blue. The common red color is due to ...
, near several large ponds, or mud holes, where buffalo would wallow. Due to the large number of buffalo that used the Trace, the well-worn path was twelve to twenty feet wide in places.Wilson, "Early Indiana Trails and Surveys," p. 349. Various trails also converged around a major salt lick, probably near present-day French Lick, Indiana. The Trace crossed the White River at several points, including places near the present-day towns of Petersburg and
Portersville, Indiana Portersville is an unincorporated community in Boone Township, Dubois County, in the U.S. state of Indiana. History Portersville was established as a town circa 1818. It is reportedly the oldest town in Dubois County, and was selected as the co ...
.Wilson, "Early Indiana Trails and Surveys," p. 350. After a major crossing at the Wabash River, the Trace split into separate trails that led west across
Illinois Illinois ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern United States. It borders on Lake Michigan to its northeast, the Mississippi River to its west, and the Wabash River, Wabash and Ohio River, Ohio rivers to its ...
to the
Mississippi River The Mississippi River is the main stem, primary river of the largest drainage basin in the United States. It is the second-longest river in the United States, behind only the Missouri River, Missouri. From its traditional source of Lake Ita ...
or north to what would become Chicago. In Chicago, the Trace is called Vincennes Avenue, and after state-funded improvements and straightening, parts became State Street. The Trace across southern Indiana became integral to early development. Two main areas of early settlement in the Indiana Territory were made along it: Vincennes to the west and Clark's Grant in the south. In the early 18th century, the French developed colonial posts in the Illinois Country by moving down the Mississippi and into its tributaries. In 1732 François-Marie Bissot, Sieur de Vincennes, founded a trading post near the Trace's Wabash River crossing; it developed as the town of Vincennes. After the
American Revolutionary War The American Revolutionary War (April 19, 1775 – September 3, 1783), also known as the Revolutionary War or American War of Independence, was the armed conflict that comprised the final eight years of the broader American Revolution, in which Am ...
, in the late 1780s the U.S. government granted land in New York, Ohio and Indiana to veterans as payment for service. The US granted "so many acres of land" to
George Rogers Clark George Rogers Clark (November 19, 1752 – February 13, 1818) was an American military officer and surveyor from Virginia who became the highest-ranking Patriot (American Revolution), Patriot military officer on the American frontier, nort ...
and his men for their military service in the Illinois campaign against the British during the Revolutionary War. It became known as Clark's Grant.
George Rogers Clark George Rogers Clark (November 19, 1752 – February 13, 1818) was an American military officer and surveyor from Virginia who became the highest-ranking Patriot (American Revolution), Patriot military officer on the American frontier, nort ...
used the Trace to return to the Louisville area after his Illinois Campaign. As the Continentals took control of the Illinois country during the Revolutionary War, the Trace became a busy overland route, which made it a target for Indian war parties. Clark's memoirs mentioned the Trace in describing an early Indian attack on traders in 1779, after Hamilton surrendered at Fort Sackville and Clark's militia controlled Vincennes.Wilson, "The Buffalo Trace," p. 188. He led his force against the Indians in the Battle of the White River Forks. Richard "Dickie" Clark (1760–c. 1784), the younger brother of General
George Rogers Clark George Rogers Clark (November 19, 1752 – February 13, 1818) was an American military officer and surveyor from Virginia who became the highest-ranking Patriot (American Revolution), Patriot military officer on the American frontier, nort ...
and Captain
William Clark William Clark (August 1, 1770 – September 1, 1838) was an American explorer, soldier, Indian agent, and territorial governor. A native of Virginia, he grew up in pre-statehood Kentucky before later settling in what became the state of Misso ...
, disappeared while traveling along the Trace in 1784. He had left Clarksville, to travel alone to Vincennes. Accounts varied: one said that his horse had been found with saddlebags bearing his initials. Another account said his horse's bones were found with Clark's bags nearby. His remains were never found. There was speculation that he was killed by Indians or thieves in the area, but historian
William Hayden English William Hayden English (August 27, 1822 – February 7, 1896) was an American politician. He served as a U.S. Representative from Indiana from 1853 to 1861 and was the Democratic Party's nominee for Vice President of the United States ...
concluded that he probably drowned while crossing a river. Several written accounts by explorers, the military, and settlers document the Trace's use as an overland route. In 1785 and 1786 explorer John Filson travelled by river to Vincennes and returned to the Falls of the Ohio via the Trace; he documented his travels along the road. Filson's overland route took nine days. General
Josiah Harmar Josiah Harmar (November 10, 1753August 20, 1813) was an officer in the United States Army during the American Revolutionary War and the Northwest Indian War. He was the senior officer in the Army for six years and seven months (August 1784 to ...
, Commander of the Army of the Ohio, kept a log when he led the
First American Regiment The First American Regiment (also known as Harmar's Regiment, The United States Regiment, The Regiment of Infantry, 1st Sub-legion, 1st Regiment of Infantry and 1st Infantry Regiment) was the first peacetime regular army infantry unit authorized ...
on a return march from Vincennes in 1786. Following the
Treaty of Greenville The Treaty of Greenville, also known to Americans as the Treaty with the Wyandots, etc., but formally titled ''A treaty of peace between the United States of America, and the tribes of Indians called the Wyandots, Delawares, Shawanees, Ottawas ...
in 1795, settlers poured into the western territories. Many of them kept journals, recording their observations along the Trace. In late 1799 U.S. postmaster Joseph Habersham established a mail route from Louisville through Vincennes to
Kaskaskia, Illinois Kaskaskia is a village in Randolph County, Illinois on the Mississippi River. Having been inhabited by indigenous peoples, the village was settled by France as part of the Illinois Country and was named for the Kaskaskia people. Its population p ...
at the Mississippi River along the Trace. The route began on 22 March 1800 and ran every four weeks. It was extended to
Cahokia, Illinois Cahokia is a settlement and former village in St. Clair County, Illinois, United States, founded as a colonial French mission in 1689. Located on the east side of the Mississippi River in the Greater St. Louis metropolitan area, as of the Unite ...
the following year. Both of these were former French colonial settlements from the early 18th century. In 1802
William Henry Harrison William Henry Harrison (February 9, 1773April 4, 1841) was the ninth president of the United States, serving from March 4 to April 4, 1841, the shortest presidency in U.S. history. He was also the first U.S. president to die in office, causin ...
, governor of the Indiana Territory, recommended that the Trace be improved as a road suitable for wagon travel, with inns developed for travelers every thirty to forty miles. By 1804 the Trace was so well known that Harrison used it as a treaty boundary with Indians.Wilson, "Early Indiana Trails and Surveys," p. 349 and 423. The Vincennes treaty of 1804 gave the U.S. government possession of Indiana land from south of the Trace to the Ohio River, including the Trace itself. William Rector was hired to survey the treaty land in 1805. His survey notes provide an important record of the Buffalo Trace's route. Survey maps and field notes identified forty-three miles of the old trace road from Clark's Grant to the White River in southern Indiana. The Buffalo Trace was the primary travel route between the
Louisville Louisville is the most populous city in the Commonwealth of Kentucky, sixth-most populous city in the Southeast, and the 27th-most-populous city in the United States. By land area, it is the country's 24th-largest city; however, by populatio ...
area and Vincennes; two-thirds of settlers traveling from the Louisville area into the interior of Indiana used the trace.Robinson, p. 38–39. Rangers were hired to protect travelers using the road, eventually doing so on horseback in 1812. During the
War of 1812 The War of 1812 was fought by the United States and its allies against the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, United Kingdom and its allies in North America. It began when the United States United States declaration of war on the Uni ...
, Harrison assigned 150 men to patrol the Trace between Vincennes and Louisville, "so as to completely protect the citizens and the road." Because the Trace remained the primary road across southern Indiana after the territory became a state in 1816, the state legislature had a road paved from New Albany to Vincennes as part of its
internal improvements Internal improvements is the term used historically in the United States for public works from the end of the American Revolution through much of the 19th century, mainly for the creation of a transportation infrastructure: roads, turnpikes, can ...
program. The road "approximated" the Trace's route. It was extended to Paoli, Indiana, after the state government leased operation of the road to a private organization as part of their negotiations to avoid bankruptcy.Kleber, John E. ''The Encyclopedia of Louisville''. (Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2001). p. 302. The paved road was called the "New Albany-Paoli Turnpike." The first
stagecoach A stagecoach (also: stage coach, stage, road coach, ) is a four-wheeled public transport coach used to carry paying passengers and light packages on journeys long enough to need a change of horses. It is strongly sprung and generally drawn by ...
service in the state started in 1820 along the Trace; the route was from New Albany to
Vincennes Vincennes (; ) is a commune in the Val-de-Marne department in the eastern suburbs of Paris, France. It is located from the centre of Paris. Vincennes is famous for its castle: the Château de Vincennes. It is next to but does not include the ...
. The route served
Floyd County, Indiana Floyd County is a County (United States), county located in the U.S. state of Indiana. Its county seat is New Albany, Indiana, New Albany. The population of the county was 80,484 as of the 2020 United States census. Floyd County has the second- ...
; the towns of Greenville,
Galena Galena, also called lead glance, is the natural mineral form of lead(II) sulfide (PbS). It is the most important ore of lead and an important source of silver. Galena is one of the most abundant and widely distributed sulfide minerals. It crysta ...
, and
Floyds Knobs Floyds Knobs is a small Unincorporated area, unincorporated community in Lafayette Township, Floyd County, Indiana, United States. Historically a farming community on the outskirts of New Albany, Indiana, New Albany, it has since become a bedroom ...
in particular. Other names for the Trace through its history have been ''Lan-an-zo-ki-mi-wi'' (or ''lenaswihkanawea'', a Native American name meaning "bison trail" or "buffalo road"), the "Old Indian Road," the "Clarksville Trace," "Harrison's Road," the "Kentucky Road," the "Vincennes Trace," and the "Louisville Trace."


Contemporary description

U.S. Route 150 from Vincennes to New Albany follows the path of the Trace.Robinson, p. 39. A large section of the original Trace can be seen south of French Lick in
Orange County, Indiana Orange County is located in Southern Indiana, Southern Indiana in the United States. As of 2020, its population was 19,867. The county seat is Paoli, Indiana, Paoli. The County (United States), county has four municipal corporation, incorporate ...
, along the Springs Valley Trail System. In 2009 a section of U.S. Route 150 and the Buffalo Trace were designated as part of the Indiana Historic Pathways, a
National Scenic Byway A National Scenic Byway is a road recognized by the United States Department of Transportation for one or more of six "intrinsic qualities": archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic. The program was established by Co ...
that crosses southern Indiana. In total, driving U.S. Route 150 to coincide with the Buffalo Trace is a distance of . Parts of the Trace are now protected, including sections in the
Hoosier National Forest The Hoosier National Forest is a property managed by the United States Forest Service in the hills of Southern Indiana, southern Indiana. Composed of four separate sections, it has a total area of . Hoosier National Forest's headquarters are loc ...
and a small tract within Buffalo Trace Park, a preserve maintained by
Harrison County, Indiana Harrison County is located in the far southern part of the U.S. state of Indiana along the Ohio River. The County (United States), county was officially established in 1808. Its population was 39,654 as of the 2020 United States census. Its cou ...
.Buffalo Trace Park, located east of Palmyra, Indiana, was opened in 1974 to commemorate the old buffalo trail as "Indiana's first highway." See The development of towns and highways has effaced much of the original Trace. Survey notes, plat maps and other documents provide clues as archeologists continue to discover more sections, aided by modern technologies such as GIS and
GNSS A satellite navigation or satnav system is a system that uses satellites to provide autonomous geopositioning. A satellite navigation system with global coverage is termed global navigation satellite system (GNSS). , four global systems are op ...
.


See also

*
History of Indiana The history of human activity in Indiana, a U.S. state in the Midwestern United States, Midwest, stems back to the migratory tribes of Native Americans in the United States, Native Americans who inhabited Indiana as early as 8000 BC. Tribes succ ...


References


Sources

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External links


Buffalo Trace ParkIndiana's Historic PathwaysHoosier National Forest, Buffalo Trace
U.S. Forest Service {{DEFAULTSORT:Vincennes Trace American bison Animal migration Floyd County, Indiana Harrison County, Indiana Historic trails and roads in the United States Indiana Territory Historic trails and roads in Indiana U.S. Route 150