Broad Peak Central is a secondary peak of the

Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...

, which is also referred to as a relatively independent main peak. It belongs to the

Gasherbrum Gasherbrum () is a remote group of mountain, peaks situated at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram mountain range. The peaks are located within the border region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. T ...

massif. Due to its visual independence, it was long disputed whether it was the 15th

eight-thousander The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...

. The mountain lies in the disputed border region of

Kashmir Kashmir ( or ) is the Northwestern Indian subcontinent, northernmost geographical region of the Indian subcontinent. Until the mid-19th century, the term ''Kashmir'' denoted only the Kashmir Valley between the Great Himalayas and the Pir P ...

(Pakistan and India) and

Xinjiang Xinjiang,; , SASM/GNC romanization, SASM/GNC: Chinese postal romanization, previously romanized as Sinkiang, officially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region (XUAR), is an Autonomous regions of China, autonomous region of the China, People' ...

(China).

First ascent

The first ascent was on 28 July 1975 by a Polish expedition. The six climbers Roman Bebak, Kazimierz Głazek, Marek Kęsicki, Janusz Kuliś, Bohdan Nowaczyk and Andrzej Sikorski began their summit attack from Camp III at an altitude of about 7200 m. Shortly before the summit, Bebak turned around so that a short time later five climbers reached the summit. Nowaczyk disappeared while descending in a snowstorm. The search of the other climbers was unsuccessful. Since they could not descend far due to the search, they had to bivouac near the summit. The search continued the next morning, but to no avail. During the further descent, Kęsicki, Kuliś and Sikorski slipped. Kęsicki and Sikorski died in the process. Thus, only two of the first climbers survived the expedition.

First ascent of the east side

On 4 August 1992, a Spanish expedition made the first ascent of a route on the Chinese east side to Broad Peak Central (and thus the third ascent of this summit). After three failed attempts in July, Catalans

Òscar Cadiach Òscar Cadiach i Puig (born 1952 in Barcelona) is a Spanish mountaineer. He has climbed all the 14 eight-thousanders.

, Enric Dalmau, Lluis Ráfols and Italy's Alberto Soncini finally reached the summit, having previously bivouacked at almost 8000m. The group had already set off on a reconnaissance trip to the remote area last year;

Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books. He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960. In 2013, ...

, who first climbed Broad Peak, also took part in both trips and explored the area geographically. This ascent was not only the first on the east side of this mountain, but the first ascent of a mountain of the Gasherbrum massif from the east, from the

Trans-Karakoram Tract The Trans-Karakoram Tract (), also known as the Shaksgam Tract (), is an area of approximately north of the Karakoram watershed, including the Shaksgam valley. The tract is administered by China as part of its Taxkorgan and Yecheng counties ...

belonging to China. It was not until 15 years later that a Swiss expedition made the second ascent from the Chinese side with the first ascent of the north face of

Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II (; ; ); surveyed as K4, is the 13th highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is the third-highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, and is located in the Karakoram, on the border between Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan and ...

References

External links

{{Eight-thousander Eight-thousanders of the Karakoram Mountains of Gilgit-Baltistan Mountains of Xinjiang China–Pakistan border International mountains of Asia Broad Peak

First ascent

First ascent of the east side

See also

References

External links