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A bouffant ( ) is a type of puffy, rounded hairstyle characterized by hair raised high on the head and usually covering the ears or hanging down on the sides.


Etymology

The word ''bouffant'' has its etymological origin in the French word ''bouffante'', which is the present participle of the French verb ''bouffer'', meaning to puff or fluff up. In Spanish, it can be translated as "esponjar" or "mullir". The ''bouffant'' was also known in England during the 1960s as ''teasy-weasy'', as that was the popular name for
Raymond Bessone Peter Carlo Bessone Raymond (born Raimondo Pietro Carlo Bessone; 11 May 1911 – 17 April 1992), known as Raymond Bessone and also as Mr Teasy-Weasy, Teasie Weasie Raymond and various combinations of these, was a British hairdresser from the 1 ...
, a British stylist credited with the revival of the bouffant hairstyle in the 1950s.1960s Hairstyles: The Bouffant and Raymond Bessone
Article on ''The Red Lipstick''; accessed December 28, 2012


History

180px, left, Drawing of a Gibson Girl by Charles Dana Gibson (c. 1891) The bouffant is a variant of the
pouf The pouf or pouffe also "toque" (literally a thick cushion) is a hairstyle and a hairstyling support deriving from 18th-century France. It was made popular by the Queen of France, Marie Antoinette (1755–1793), when she wore it in June 1775 a ...
hairstyle from the 18th century, popularly used in the aesthetics of aristocratic society and the upper socio-economic classes of the French Empire. The bouffant, along with similar hairstyles like the pouf and the pompadour, represented an exclusive hairstyle of the upper socio-economic classes. The hairstyle was typically created in aristocratic wigs, which were adorned with feathers, ribbons, flowers, and jewelry, and accompanied by various headpieces, hats, and
fascinator A fascinator is a formal wear, formal headpiece, a style of Hatmaking, millinery. Since the 1990s, the term has referred to a type of formal headwear worn as an alternative to the hat; it is usually a large decorative design attached to a band ...
s. Voluminous hairstyles like the bouffant and the pompadour became popular again among high society women in the late Victorian era, where full-bodied hair was considered an attribute of the upper socio-economic classes, leading to the use of cosmetic solutions and hairpieces to add volume to the hairstyle. At the end of the 19th century, the bouffant style found appreciation during the
Belle Époque The Belle Époque () or La Belle Époque () was a period of French and European history that began after the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and continued until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Occurring during the era of the Fr ...
period. The hairstyle was revived through the concept of feminine beauty created by American illustrator
Charles Dana Gibson Charles Dana Gibson (September 14, 1867 – December 23, 1944) was an American illustrator who created the Gibson Girl, an iconic representation of the beautiful and independent American woman at the turn of the 20th century. He published his ...
, who popularized the aesthetic of the Gibson Girl as one of the first forms of
pin-up A pin-up model is a model (person), model whose mass-produced pictures and photographs have wide appeal within the popular culture of a society. Pin-up models are usually glamour photography, glamour, actresses, or fashion models whose pictures ...
beauty in the late 19th century. The iconic Gibson Girl was often depicted in contemporary fashion, wearing figure-accentuating clothing, hats, and headpieces, and portrayed with voluminous bouffant and pompadour hairstyles. The sophisticated perception of women in the Gibson Girl model contributed to the popularity of this aesthetic, including the bouffant hairstyle, until the period of World War I.


20th and 21st centuries

After the political succession from the reign of
Queen Victoria Victoria (Alexandrina Victoria; 24 May 1819 – 22 January 1901) was Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland from 20 June 1837 until Death and state funeral of Queen Victoria, her death in January 1901. Her reign of 63 year ...
to
King Edward VII Edward VII (Albert Edward; 9 November 1841 – 6 May 1910) was King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions, and Emperor of India, from 22 January 1901 until his death in 1910. The second child and eldest son of Queen Victoria and ...
, the bouffant continued to be a symbol of aristocracy in the early years of the
Edwardian era In the United Kingdom, the Edwardian era was a period in the early 20th century that spanned the reign of King Edward VII from 1901 to 1910. It is commonly extended to the start of the First World War in 1914, during the early reign of King Ge ...
, marked by the integration of new hairstyling techniques such as the use of hair waxes, fixatives, and hairpieces to add volume to the hairstyle. The bouffant and the Gibson Girl aesthetic were later replaced by modern versions of new femininity, which included the bob hairstyles and the
flapper Flappers were a subculture of young Western women prominent after the First World War and through the 1920s who wore short skirts (knee length was considered short during that period), bobbed their hair, listened to jazz, and flaunted their ...
woman's style. The bouffant hairstyle made a comeback in the early 1950s during the
rockabilly Rockabilly is one of the earliest styles of rock and roll music. It dates back to the early 1950s in the United States, especially the Southern United States, South. As a genre, it blends the sound of Western music (North America), Western musi ...
aesthetic, along with the pompadour hairstyle. Its revival in women's fashion in the 1950s is credited to British stylist
Raymond Bessone Peter Carlo Bessone Raymond (born Raimondo Pietro Carlo Bessone; 11 May 1911 – 17 April 1992), known as Raymond Bessone and also as Mr Teasy-Weasy, Teasie Weasie Raymond and various combinations of these, was a British hairdresser from the 1 ...
. The hairstyle was often referred to as teasy-weasy due to the popularity of Bessone's bouffant hairstyle, which became its commonly known name. The popularity of the bouffant hairstyle in the 1950s was greatly strengthened in the United States when the First Lady,
Jacqueline Kennedy Jacqueline Lee Kennedy Onassis ( ; July 28, 1929 – May 19, 1994) was an American writer, book editor, and socialite who served as the first lady of the United States from 1961 to 1963, as the wife of President John F. Kennedy. A popular f ...
, frequently appeared with a low bouffant in the form of a bob cut. The hairstyle became the traditional look for American housewives in the 1960s as it was often used to create a taller appearance for the wearer. With this intention, a variation of the bouffant known as the
beehive A beehive is an enclosed structure which houses honey bees, subgenus '' Apis.'' Honey bees live in the beehive, raising their young and producing honey as part of their seasonal cycle. Though the word ''beehive'' is used to describe the nest of ...
emerged. The beehive consisted of a voluminous mass of hair styled in a roll or hive-like shape resting on top of the crown of the head, characterized by its considerable height and often accompanied by bangs.Remembering: The Beehive – The Beehive Hairstyle
Article on ''Retro Galaxy''; accessed December 28, 2012
The beehive hairstyle became iconic for artists like
Dusty Springfield Mary Isobel Catherine Bernadette O'Brien (16 April 1939 – 2 March 1999), better known by her stage name Dusty Springfield, was a British singer. With her distinctive mezzo-soprano voice, she was a popular singer of blue-eyed soul, Pop mus ...
and in more modern times, for the look sported by
Amy Winehouse Amy Jade Winehouse (14 September 1983 – 23 July 2011) was an English singer, songwriter, musician, and businesswoman. With over 30 million records sold worldwide, she was known for her deep, expressive contralto vocals and her eclectic mix ...
.Amy Winehouse And Her Beehive – How She Changed Hair History
Article by Leah Ornstein on ''Radar Online''; accessed December 28, 2012
During the 1960s, the bouffant gained notable popularity among musical personalities, especially members of girls groups performing R&B,
bubblegum pop Bubblegum (also called bubblegum pop) is pop music in a catchy and upbeat style that is marketed for children and adolescents. The term also refers to a more specific rock and pop subgenre, originating in the United States in the late 1960s, th ...
,
soul The soul is the purported Mind–body dualism, immaterial aspect or essence of a Outline of life forms, living being. It is typically believed to be Immortality, immortal and to exist apart from the material world. The three main theories that ...
, and doo-woop music. Some groups that adopted the bouffant in the 1960s included
The Supremes The Supremes were an American girl group formed in Detroit, Michigan, in 1959 as the Primettes. A premier act of Motown Records during the 1960s, the Supremes were the most commercially successful of Motown's acts and the most successful Amer ...
,
The Ronettes The Ronettes were an American girl group from Washington Heights, Manhattan, New York City. The group consisted of the lead singer Veronica Bennett (later known as Ronnie Spector), her older sister Estelle Bennett, and their cousin Nedra Ta ...
,
The Shirelles The Shirelles were an American girl group formed in Passaic, New Jersey, in 1957. They consisted of schoolmates Shirley Owens (later Shirley Alston Reeves), Doris Coley (later Doris Kenner-Jackson), Addie "Micki" Harris (later Addie Harris McF ...
, and
Martha and the Vandellas Martha and the Vandellas (known from 1967 to 1973 as Martha Reeves & the Vandellas) were an American girl group formed in Detroit, Michigan in 1957. The group achieved fame in the 1960s as a major act for Motown Records. Formed by friends Annett ...
. This popularity contributed to a significant increase in sales of hair rollers and hairspray during the 1960s. The revival of the beehive hairstyle is recognized to have emerged with the fame of Amy Winehouse in the 2000s. The bouffant (including its variation, the beehive, and the pompadour hairstyle) experienced a resurgence in popularity in the 2010s due to the aesthetic influence of the hipster subculture as well as retro rockabilly trends, with music personalities like
Adele Adele Laurie Blue Adkins (; born 5 May 1988) is an English singer-songwriter. Regarded as a British cultural icon, icon, she is known for her mezzo-soprano vocals and sentimental songwriting. List of awards and nominations received by Adele, ...
and
Rihanna Robyn Rihanna Fenty ( ; born February 20, 1988) is a Barbadian singer, businesswoman, and actress. One of the List of music artists by net worth, wealthiest musicians in the world, List of awards and nominations received by Rihanna, her vario ...
sporting these hairstyles.


Method

Hair on the top of the head was often raised by
backcombing Backcombing, also known as teasing or ratting, is a way of styling hair to create volume. It is done by repeatedly combing the hair towards the scalp, causing the hair to tangle and knot. Notable wearers * Russell Brand, English podcaster and f ...
or "teasing" it with a comb to create a pile of tangled, loosely knotted hair on the top and upper sides of the head. Then, unteased hair from the front of the head was lightly combed over the pile to give a smooth, sleek look, and the ends of the outer hair might be combed, cut, curled, or flipped in many distinctive ways. In some cases, a small wiglet or a cushion of nylon mesh might be used instead of or in addition to teasing, to add height at the crown of the head. Bangs might be worn over the forehead, or a long switch or "fall" of artificial hair, matching the wearer's own hair color, might be added at the back. Usually,
hair spray Hair spray (also hair lacquer or spritz) is a common cosmetic hairstyling product that is sprayed onto hair to protect against humidity and wind and have it stay in a desired shape. Hair sprays typically consist of several components for the ...
or hair lacquer was applied as a finishing touch to stiffen the hairdo and hold it in place without the need for
hairpin A hairpin or hair pin is a long device used to hold a person's hair in place. It may be used simply to secure long hair out of the way for convenience or as part of an elaborate hairstyle or coiffure. The earliest evidence for dressing the ha ...
s. Since the hair could not be brushed without ruining the style, adjustments were made by using the long, pointed end of a "rattail" comb to gently lift the hair back into place.


Gallery

File:Patsy Cline at the Mint Casino in Las Vegas, Nevada. Circa 1962.jpg, Country-western superstar
Patsy Cline Patsy Cline (born Virginia Patterson Hensley; September 8, 1932 – March 5, 1963) was an American singer. One of the most influential vocalists of the 20th century, she was known as one of the first country music artists to successfully Cross ...
wearing a bouffant in 1962 File:Dusty_Springfield_(1966)b.png,
Swinging London The Swinging Sixties was a youth-driven cultural revolution that took place in the United Kingdom during the mid-to-late 1960s, emphasising modernity and fun-loving hedonism, with Swinging London denoted as its centre. It saw a flourishing in ...
icon
Dusty Springfield Mary Isobel Catherine Bernadette O'Brien (16 April 1939 – 2 March 1999), better known by her stage name Dusty Springfield, was a British singer. With her distinctive mezzo-soprano voice, she was a popular singer of blue-eyed soul, Pop mus ...
with a bouffant in 1966 File:Lady Bird Johnson, photo portrait, standing at rear of White House, color, crop.jpg,
Lady Bird Johnson Claudia Alta "Lady Bird" Johnson (; December 22, 1912 – July 11, 2007) was First Lady of the United States from 1963 to 1969 as the wife of President Lyndon B. Johnson. She had previously been Second Lady of the United States from 1961 to 196 ...
wearing a bouffant in 1967 File:Betty Ford, official White House photo color, 1974.jpg, First Lady
Betty Ford Elizabeth Anne Ford (; formerly Warren; April 8, 1918 – July 8, 2011) was First Lady of the United States from 1974 to 1977, as the wife of President Gerald Ford. As first lady, she was active in social policy, and set a precedent as a politi ...
, 1974 File:Margaret Thatcher stock portrait.jpg, Former Prime Minister
Margaret Thatcher Margaret Hilda Thatcher, Baroness Thatcher (; 13 October 19258 April 2013), was a British stateswoman who served as Prime Minister of the United Kingdom from 1979 to 1990 and Leader of the Conservative Party (UK), Leader of th ...
, circa 1995


See also

*
Beehive (hairstyle) The beehive is a hairstyle in which long hair is piled up in a conical shape on the top of the head and slightly backward pointing, giving some resemblance to the shape of a traditional beehive. It is also known as the B-52 due to a resemblance ...
* Big hair *
List of hairstyles This is a non-exhaustive list of hairstyles, excluding List of facial hairstyles, facial hairstyles. Short hairstyles Long hairstyles Long hairstyles may be considered those which reach beyond the shoulders on women, or require long hair to c ...
* Pompadour (hairstyle)


References


External links

*
Hairstyle archives

"Beauty and the Bouffant" gallery
* {{Human hair, state=expanded Hairstyles 1960s fashion