Body Piercing Materials

Modern Western body piercing professionals use a wide variety of body jewelry materials. These include some manufactured glass materials as well as nickel-free metals and alloys such as titanium, gold, and niobium, which are versatile and can be used in both fresh and healed piercings. Others, like wood, bone, and silicone, are recommended only for fully healed piercings.

Recommended jewelry materials for initial piercings

Based in the United States, the Association of Professional Piercers is an international nonprofit organization that has developed safety standards for body jewelry based on research and historical experience. The APP states that jewelry in initial piercings should be:

* able to withstand the heat and pressure of autoclave sterilization
* inert and compatible with the body so it doesn’t cause irritation, allergy, or infection

Metals and metal alloys

The APP recommends several biocompatible metals and metal alloys that meet ISO or ASTM standards for medical devices and materials used in medical implants. These include:

* Surgical stainless steels compliant with ASTM F138 or ISO 5832-1 standards
* Surgical stainless steels compliant with ISO 10993-6, 10993-10, and/or 10993-11 standards
* Steel alloys confirmed as EEC uropean Nickel Directive compliant
* Titanium ( Ti-6Al-4V ELI) that is implant-certified and compliant with ASTM F136 or ISO 5832-3 standards
* Titanium (Ti-6Al-7Nb) that is implant-certified and compliant with ASTM F1295 standards
* Titanium that is considered "commercially pure" and ASTM F67 compliant
While not specifically indicating applicable ISO or ASTM standards for platinum or gold, the APP recommends their use in body jewelry for initial piercings. Niobium (Nb) does not have an implant-grade classification, but the APP also recommends niobium body jewelry in new piercings. Yellow, rose, or white gold body jewelry can be used if it is "14k or higher, nickel- and cadmium-free, and alloyed for biocompatibility."

Non-metallic materials

The APP mentions several types of glass that are safe for use in initial piercings: fused quartz, lead-free borosilicate, or lead-free soda-lime glass. The organization also designates several types of biocompatible polymers (plastics) for use in new piercings:
* Tygon Medical Surgical Tubing S-50HL or S-54HL
* Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
* Bioplast
The APP recommends checking that polymer body jewelry products are United States Pharmacopeia (USP) VI compliant before using in new piercings.

Metals

Steel

Surgical stainless steel includes grades of stainless steel used in biomedical applications. The most common varieties classified as "surgical steel" are austenitic 316 stainless and martensitic 440 and 420 stainless steels. There is no formal definition of what constitutes a "surgical stainless steel", so product manufacturers and distributors apply the term to refer to any grade of corrosion-resistant steel.

Currently, the Association of Professional Piercers only recommends steel certified to meet ASTM or ISO standards applicable to surgical implant applications for initial piercing jewelry. The organization notes that "Many of them urgical steel alloysare used for body jewelry, but only a few specific grades are proven biocompatible." These include steel grades compliant with ASTM F138, ISO 5832-1, ISO 10993-6, 10993-10, t 10993-11 standards. Steel body jewelry may be sterilized in an autoclave.

SAE 316 stainless steel

SAE 316 stainless steel, also referred to as marine grade stainless steel, is a chromium, nickel, and molybdenum steel alloy noted for its strength and corrosion resistance. SAE 316 stainless steel used in body jewelry can include 316L and 316LVM grades.

Labeled as UNS S31603 under the Unified Numbering System, 316L stainless steel incorporates 16-18% chromium, 10-14% nickel, and 2-3% molybdenum, with an upper limit of 0.3% carbon. The "L" in this and the 316LVM grade number indicates a low-carbon variety, usually containing 0.3% carbon or less.

Designated as UNS S31673, 316LVM typically contains 17-19% chromium, 13-15% nickel, and 2.25–3% molybdenum with a maximum carbon value of 0.03%. The "VM" in 316LVM stainless steel stands for "vacuum melting," a vacuum induction melting process that prevents contamination from the air and removes existing gasses already dissolved in the metal.

ASTM F138-compliant steel, including UNS S31673, is used to manufacture body piercing jewelry and surgical implants. However, 316L stainless steel can demonstrate lower corrosion resistance compared to 317LMN stainless steel. Moreover, 316LVM stainless steel exhibits lower corrosion resistance compared with "other metallic biomaterials (e.g., Ti-based alloys)."

SAE 440 and 420 stainless steel

Both in the 400 series of SAE steel grades, 440 and 420 stainless steel varieties, known also by the name " cutlery stainless steel," are high-carbon steels alloyed with chromium. As martensitic stainless steel grades, their corrosion resistance is inferior to 316 stainless steel materials. SAE 420 and 440 stainless steel grades typically contain little to no nickel, but their compositions generally include carbon, chromium, silicon, manganese, phosphorus, and sulfur. Some SAE 440 steel samples may contain trace amounts of nickel (less than 0.06%).

Considerations with stainless steel jewelry

Various grades of stainless steel, including 316L, 316LVM, and ASTM F138 compliant varieties, contain some percentage of nickel. Individuals with a nickel allergy may still experience allergic reactions to steel jewelry, depending on their sensitivity and jewelry's nickel content. As a form of contact dermatitis, nickel allergies can manifest after a person's skin comes in contact with items containing nickel. Nickel allergy symptoms can include a painful, itchy rash on the skin as well as redness, hives, dryness, discoloration, blisters, and draining fluid. Additionally, skin may become excoriated or broken, especially if the person scratches affected areas.

One disadvantage of steel is its weight. For larger pieces of jewelry, this can be a problem as it can cause tension in the body tissue, and also unwanted stretching or tearing of a piercing. In areas with low blood circulation, such as the earlobe, this can be potentially dangerous.

Another downside is its tendency to become very cold during winter. This can cause problems; due to this, many change their jewelry to others made of horn, bone, wood, plastics, and glass during winter.

Titanium

Titanium body jewelry is often manufactured in either commercially pure grades 1 to 4, grade 5 Ti-6Al-4V alloy, or grade 23 Ti-6Al-4V ELI alloy.

The Association of Professional Piercers recommends titanium jewelry certified to meet ASTM or ISO standards for surgical implant applications. This includes implant certified titanium (Ti-6Al-4V ELI) that complies with ASTM F136, ASTM F1295, or ISO 5832-3 standards, as well as commercially pure titanium that is ASTM F67 compliant.

Pure and alloyed qualities have long been used for both piercings and surgical implants, and very few long-term allergies and other complications have been reported, though as with any material they could arise after prolonged contact with the human body. Ti-6Al-4V ELI alloy contains aluminum and vanadium.

When the EU Nickel Directive came into force, high nickel-bearing alloys were restricted from use in primary (new) piercings. Because of its virtually 'Nickel Free' content, titanium has become one of the preferred materials used in piercing jewelry within the borders of the EU.

Titanium jewelry is lightweight (around 60% the weight of stainless steel given the same volume), it is highly corrosion resistant and less likely to react with body fluids, is not magnetic, it can be anodized to create a layer of colored oxide on the surface. Common colors are yellow, blue, purple, green, and rainbow.

Titanium can be sterilized in an autoclave.

Niobium

Niobium is a silvery metal that is corrosion-resistant due to an oxide layer present on its surface. Pyrochlore is a leading source of niobium materials, including niobium metal from which jewelry is crafted. Pure niobium is inert and does not react to body fluids or the oxidization agent aqua regia. Because it oxidizes in Earth's atmosphere very slowly, it is used as a Hypoallergenic alternative to nickel in jewelry. Due to its biocompatibility, corrosion resistance, and mechanical properties, it is selected as an alloying metal for titanium medical implants.

Niobium can be anodized in a wide range of colors, including black, and meets the APP's guidelines for use in initial and healed piercings due its ability to be safely sterilized in an autoclave and "compatible with the body so it doesn’t cause irritation, allergy, or infection".

Bronze

Bronze is often used in larger piercings in the form of earweights and ethnic jewelry from Indonesia and other places of the world.

Bronze is an alloy of different metals but the most common blend (in piercing jewelry) is 90% copper and 10% tin.

When buying bronze jewelry, buyers should make sure to buy from a reputable seller as some bronzes can contain arsenic which can "bleed" into your body. Bronze can also discolor the skin with a greenish color which can be removed, but if it gets into open wounds it can permanently discolor the tissue.

Silver

Jewelry made out of silver, a noble metal, has been common for centuries in all forms of jewelry. It has a certain luster and can also be treated to make certain areas black which gives a nice contrast.

Gold

Gold is a noble metal with a long tradition for use in jewelry.

When using gold for piercings, a lower purity than 14 or 18 carat (58 to 75%) is not recommended.

Gold is about as soft as lead and is easily scratched. These scratches can irritate the body, especially in new piercings. Tongue jewelry made from gold is not recommended as chewing on the beads is common. To avoid the irritation of damaged jewelry from such scratches and flaws, gold colored titanium jewelry is a safer substitute.

Piercing jewelry is often made of a gold alloy, the most common being 18k, with 24k being entirely pure and much softer. 18k gold usually contains 75% gold and the remaining 25% copper, silver and traces of other metals. In lower quality gold, zinc, nickel and other irritants can also be found.

As said, gold jewelry should only be used in healing piercings if it is nickel free or palladium based. Allergy to gold is uncommon but it does exist, and then mostly from white gold. In some extreme cases, the copper in the jewelry can tarnish and cause greenish discoloring of the tissue.

Gold can become discolored from autoclaving. It could be several things, reaction to the chemical indicators, residues left from polishing or cleaning products, or corrosion of elements in the gold itself.

Experienced body piercing studios clean the jewelry with a jewelry steamer, and then an ultrasonic process with warm alkaline detergent, followed by a distilled or deionized water rinse, then an alcohol rinse to help remove residues. Use Class 5 or 6 integrating indicators instead of class 1 or 2 chemical process indicators for monitoring autoclave sterilization with gold.

Porcelain

Porcelain is high temperature fired stoneware. If the glaze is non-porous and free of toxic elements such as lead and cadmium it may be suitable for wear in healed piercings.

Glass

Glass is a common piercing material which has been used for thousands of years. For example, ear plug jewelry made of glass have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs.

If correctly shaped and manufactured, glass can be a functional material: comfortable to wear, tough, and safe for the body. It is possible to sterilize glass in a steam- autoclave.

Polymers

Polymers (plastics) have been used for a long time for both implants and piercings. Early piercers often used it as a healing jewelry. After the piercing was done, a product resembling a thick fishing line was inserted in the hole and its end was rivetted together. When the piercing was healed, the plastic was cut and pulled out, and then real jewelry was inserted. The method is still in use today, but to a much smaller extent. There are many better and safer ways today.

Polymers can be light, with resistance to the body's chemical reactions and can be safe against most allergies. However, many polymers are absorbent and have a porous surface, which makes it necessary to often take the jewelry out and thoroughly clean or replace it to avoid infection or sensitization from residues.

PTFE

PTFE or Teflon was invented in 1938 and can be refined for use in the medical industry for prolonged contact with skin.

Refined PTFE can be made biocompatible. It is a lightweight plastic, it is bendable, autoclaveable, not visible with X-rays, not magnetic, and very stable. It is suited for implants and piercings, especially if some flexibility of the material is desired.

PTFE is commonly used as a retainer.

Acrylic, plexiglas

Acrylic, sold as plexiglas or any of a variety of names, is a transparent plastic, in piercing mostly used for plugs and tapers.

Due to the material's smoothness, it has been used for stretching. Many overenthusiastic wearers have damaged their holes with acrylic tapers.

It is not a safe material for damaged or new piercings and can not be heat sterilized by autoclave as it can melt or discolor. Acrylics can emit carcinogenic toxins above 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 °C), which normal body temperature is above. It is also a fragile material and can easily crack, craze or shard if dropped. Jewelry made of acrylic has a tendency to collect body fluids and skin parts in tiny pores and fissures.

Acrylic can be a chemical irritant or allergen, resulting in Acrylic monomer dermatitis from the decomposition of methyl methacrylate.

Gems

Gems or gemstones are mostly used as inlays in plugs and as beads in BCRs.

The quality varies widely with different gems, and it can be hard to find stones big enough without cracks and scratches.

Some stones may affect the body such as malachite which contains copper that can discolor the skin. Others may contain lead Lead glass#Safety or arsenic or other hazardous materials. However, stones are generally not a problem for the body as long as they don't have sharp or pointy edges or are not very heavy. They can most of the time be autoclaved, but some stones, such as opals can't stand the heat and should be cleaned some other way.

See Gemstones

Natural materials

Wood

Wood is a common material for plugs and other shapes. Wooden pieces tend to keep warm in cold conditions, they are lightweight, they often stay in place better than other plugs and also they allow the body to "breathe" so the piercing is less likely to smell as it might with other materials.

The downside of wood as body jewelry is if not cared for properly it may dry out and lose luster. This can be prevented with mineral oil or jojoba oil and avoiding excessive exposure to water.

It should not be autoclaved as that can cause cracking, warping, or splitting.

Wood has grain that will rise if not properly finished, dramatically changing the texture. The porosity of wood and inability to be safely sterilized renders it inappropriate as a material for initial piercings or unhealed stretches.

Some types of wood are strongly discouraged for piercing jewelry as they can cause allergic reactions or otherwise be irritating for the skin. Hardwood is preferable. Correctly treated, it doesn't swell, it's durable, stable, does not absorb a lot of moisture or body fluids, and the surface can be polished to be very smooth.

Wood is also an excellent basis for more advanced jewelry. The flat faces of a plug can be inlaid with gemstones or metals, etc. Wood can easily be shaped and it comes in many colors.

Amber

Amber is fossilized tree sap and has a long tradition of use in jewelry. Its most common color is a goldish yellow but it also comes in black, greenish, reddish, white, brown and blue and various blends. It can be found with natural inclusions of small animals, insects and plants which can be amazingly well-preserved.

Amber is commonly used for inlays in metal jewelry or in plugs made of horn, bone or wood etc., but there are also massive amber plugs.

The material has a smooth surface that is kind to the skin, but tends to be a little fragile and can't handle heat very well, so it shouldn't be autoclaved.

Fauna

Biological organic materials are quite common in the world of piercings and are what were used historically by many cultures. Like wood, they seem well suited as body jewelry as they are easily shaped and bone, horn, ivory etc. may be finished to an acceptably smooth surface. Biological organic materials seem to allow your body to "breathe". They get less cold than other hard solid materials due to their insulating properties during winter. However, like wood, they can dry and crack.

Badly cleaned materials can transfer remaining bacteria and such to the body of the jewelry-wearer, so therefore it is very important that you buy your jewelry from a company with ethical good manufacturing practices.

Lower quality jewelry might have scratches or cracks which can harbor bacteria, or poor finishes which can result in harsh textures.

Animal products that are not acquired legally are not suitable as a raw material for the manufacture of body jewelry. There are ethical alternatives for some material such as fossilized mammoth, mastodon, or walrus ivory, which is a mineralized material most commonly found in Siberia or Alaska. Every year, large amounts of mammoth ivory are exposed in the permafrost of Siberia. The abundance of mammoth ivory, and the fact that the trade is legal, has dealt a hard blow against the illegal ivory trade. Mammoth ivory can be found in more than the normal white/yellowish colors normal ivory has. This is because minerals in the ground sometimes color the ivory. Unless it is properly cared for, mammoth ivory is prone to cracking caused by changes in temperature and moisture levels.

Bone, horn, ivory and such should not be autoclaved, as it will destroy them. They are also unsuitable for unhealed piercings or for wear while stretching existing ones.

See also

* Body piercing
* Body piercing jewellery
*Earring
*Glass
* Autoclave
*Titanium
*Gold
*Silver
*Niobium
*Bronze

Sources

Organic LLC
Information on care of natural materials, endangered wood species, possible allergic reactions to wood species, and more

References

{{Body Piercing

Materials

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