The bodo blouse, locally known as ''baju bodo'' (), is a sheer and transparent short-sleeved loose
blouse
A blouse () is a loose-fitting upper garment that may be worn by workmen, peasants, artists, women, and children.The Concise Oxford English Dictionary It is typically gathered at the waist or hips (by tight hem, pleats, parter, or belt) so th ...
, a traditional attire for women of the
Bugis
The Bugis people, also known as Buginese, are an Austronesian ethnic groupthe most numerous of the three major linguistic and ethnic groups of South Sulawesi (the others being Makassarese and Torajan), in the south-western province of Sula ...
and
Makassar
Makassar ( ), formerly Ujung Pandang ( ), is the capital of the Indonesian Provinces of Indonesia, province of South Sulawesi. It is the largest city in the region of Eastern Indonesia and the country's fifth-largest urban center after Jakarta, ...
peoples of
South Sulawesi
South Sulawesi () is a Provinces of Indonesia, province in the South Peninsula, Sulawesi, southern peninsula of Sulawesi, Indonesia. The Selayar Islands archipelago to the south of Sulawesi is also part of the province. The capital and largest ci ...
,
Indonesia
Indonesia, officially the Republic of Indonesia, is a country in Southeast Asia and Oceania, between the Indian Ocean, Indian and Pacific Ocean, Pacific oceans. Comprising over List of islands of Indonesia, 17,000 islands, including Sumatra, ...
.
A bodo blouse is traditionally combined with a matching woven
sarong
A sarong or a sarung (, ) is a large tube or length of textile, fabric, often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia, South Asia, Western Asia, Northern Africa, East Africa, West Africa, and on many Pacific islands. The fabric often ...
that covered the waist below the body.
Attire components
Blouse
The
textile
Textile is an Hyponymy and hypernymy, umbrella term that includes various Fiber, fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, Staple (textiles)#Filament fiber, filaments, Thread (yarn), threads, and different types of #Fabric, fabric. ...
materials used in bodo blouse are usually thin, sheer and transparent; usually
muslin
Muslin () is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It is commonly believed that it gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq.
Muslin was produced in different regions o ...
, sheer cotton or
silk
Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
. Muslin is the most favoured materials, it has loose threads that make it look transparent and suitable for hot and humid tropical climate.
As the name implies, the term ''bodo'' in the
Makassar language
Makassarese (, ), sometimes called Makasar, Makassar, or Macassar, is a language of the Makassarese people, spoken in South Sulawesi province of Indonesia. It is a member of the South Sulawesi languages, South Sulawesi group of the Austronesian ...
means "short", which imply that this blouse is indeed short-sleeved.
The cut of bodo blouse is quite simple, it follows the square design with holes or openings for neck, two arms and waist. Some design might has front opening, while others do not which resembles a loose tube. It also quite loose to allow the blouse to fit all sizes, and the design did emphasize the drape quality of the sheer fabrics.
Sarong
Bodo blouse is traditionally combined with a matching woven
sarong
A sarong or a sarung (, ) is a large tube or length of textile, fabric, often wrapped around the waist, worn in Southeast Asia, South Asia, Western Asia, Northern Africa, East Africa, West Africa, and on many Pacific islands. The fabric often ...
that covered the waist. Commonly, Makassarese people wore sarong wrapped around quite tightly. However, in this outfit the sarong is deliberately fitted loosely to match the loose draped shape of the bodo blouse top.
Jewelry
This traditional clothing is considered incomplete if not complemented by jewelry or accessories. Some of these accessories includes earrings, headbands, tiaras, tiered necklaces, long necklaces, wide bracelets, multiple thin ''keroncong'' type bracelets and metal belts. The accessories mentioned above are the complete variants which are commonly used by brides. Common guests usually wear less jewelry. This jewelry is usually made of gold or
silver
Silver is a chemical element; it has Symbol (chemistry), symbol Ag () and atomic number 47. A soft, whitish-gray, lustrous transition metal, it exhibits the highest electrical conductivity, thermal conductivity, and reflectivity of any metal. ...
, while the simpler ones are made of
brass
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, in proportions which can be varied to achieve different colours and mechanical, electrical, acoustic and chemical properties, but copper typically has the larger proportion, generally copper and zinc. I ...
.
History
The sheer woven cotton as the materials of bodo blouse is believed has been made and used by people in Sulawesi since the 9th century.
In the past, bodo blouses were worn without undergarments, exposing the breasts and curves of the wearer.
However, after the local Bugis and Makassar people converted to
Islam
Islam is an Abrahamic religions, Abrahamic monotheistic religion based on the Quran, and the teachings of Muhammad. Adherents of Islam are called Muslims, who are estimated to number Islam by country, 2 billion worldwide and are the world ...
in past centuries, previously revealing clothing was subdued to be more modest. This transparent outfit was then paired with an undergarment of the same colour, but usually lighter in tone.
Usage
This traditional clothing is often worn for traditional events, such as wedding ceremonies. Although it has been increasingly marginalised due to the influence of modern clothing, or competing with other Indonesian national attires such as
kebaya
A kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand.
Kebaya is an upper garment opened at the front that is traditionally made from lightweight fa ...
and
baju kurung
Baju Kurung ( Jawi: ) is a traditional attire of Malays and traditionally worn by women in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and southern Thailand. This type of traditional attire is the national dress of Brunei and Malaysia. In Indonesi ...
, it remains prevalent in traditional Bugis villages. The bodo blouses are still worn by Bugis women, especially by brides during the marriage ceremony and wedding reception, as well as by the mother of the bride and groom, and the maid of honour.
Lately, the use of the bodo blouse has begun to expand for various activities, such as dancing and singing. Today, bodo blouse has become a source of inspiration for contemporary Indonesian fashion designers, and used as the inspiration of modern wedding dress.
Colours
Traditional
According to Bugis customs and traditions, specific colours of bodo blouse worn by Bugis women indicates the age and social standings of the wearer.
Contemporary
In contemporary Bugis culture, the traditional significance attached to specific colors in the bodo blouse, which once denoted age and social status, has undergone a transformation. Unlike the strict guidelines adhered to in earlier times, modern practices no longer confine individuals to particular colors based on their age or rank. As a result, women now have the freedom to select from a wider range of colors, including those historically associated with specific age groups.
Furthermore, modern Bugis attire embraces an expansive array of hues beyond the traditional spectrum. Colors like blue, mauve, and orange have become prominent in contemporary Bugis textiles. Historical records from the Leiden Museum even indicate the presence of blue and mauve-toned blouses as far back as 1864, initially linked with nobility before becoming accessible to a broader audience. Today, individuals from all backgrounds, including brides, can confidently choose a green baju bodo, an option that was once reserved solely for noblewomen. This evolution signifies a more inclusive and adaptable approach to Bugis fashion, departing from the strict conventions of the past.
Gallery
File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM 'Padjogé' danseressen te Maros Celebes TMnr 10003470.jpg, Pajoge dancers wearing bodo blouse, Maros circa 1870
File:Merah Putih di Varna, Bulgaria.jpg, Indonesian choir group wearing Bugis traditional attires, the ladies wearing bodo blouse
File:Mariage aux célèbes.jpg, Bugis girls wearing bodo blouse
File:Traditional girl Makassar.jpg, A girl wearing bodo blouse with jewelries; headbands, earrings and necklace
See also
*
Kebaya
A kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand.
Kebaya is an upper garment opened at the front that is traditionally made from lightweight fa ...
*
Baju kurung
Baju Kurung ( Jawi: ) is a traditional attire of Malays and traditionally worn by women in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and southern Thailand. This type of traditional attire is the national dress of Brunei and Malaysia. In Indonesi ...
*
National costume of Indonesia
References
{{Indonesia topics
Indonesian clothing
Bugis people
South Sulawesi
Makassar