Big Wave Surfing
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Big wave surfing is a discipline within
surfing Surfing is a surface water sport in which an individual, a surfer (or two in tandem surfing), uses a board to ride on the forward section, or face, of a moving wave of water, which usually carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suita ...
in which surfers paddle into, or are towed into, waves that are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or towboards. The size of the board needed to successfully surf these waves varies by the size of the wave, as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach it. A larger, longer board enables a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed. In 1992, big wave surfers such as Buzzy Kerbox, Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross-over variation called tow-in surfing. While many riders still participate in both activities, they remain very distinct. Tow-in surfing involves being towed in to big waves by jet ski, creating the speed needed to successfully ride them. Tow-in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that enabled more speed and easier maneuvrability in waves over 30 ft (10m). By the end of the 1990s, tow-in surfing meant that surfers could ride waves exceeding 50 ft (15m).


Hazards of big wave surfing

In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20 to 50 feet can be strong enough to rupture human eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or the ocean floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death. One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult, and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations. A major issue argued between big-wave surfers is the necessity of the leash on the surfboard. In many instances, the leash can do more harm than good to a surfer, catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Today, tow-in surfboards are equipped with foot holds (like those found on windsurfs) instead of leashes, in order to provide some security to the surfer without generating safety hazards whilst the surfer is underwater. These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are
Mark Foo Mark Sheldon Foo was a professional Surfing, surfer who favored big wave surfing. Foo drowned while surfing at Mavericks (location), Mavericks, Half Moon Bay, California, in 1994. Early life Mark Foo was born in Singapore on February 5, 1958, ...
, who died surfing Mavericks on 23 December 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser, who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on 14 February 1997; Peter Davi, who died at Ghost Trees on 4 December 2007; Sion Milosky, who died surfing Mavericks on 16 March 2011; and Kirk Passmore, who died at Alligator Rock on 12 November 2013.


Paddle-in surfing

On 18 January 2010 Danilo Couto and Marcio Freire became the first to surf Jaws Peahi paddling, surfing the wave to the left side. They did not have jetski support and used only their shorts and their surfboards. They were the only ones to surf Jaws paddling until 4 January 2012, when it was surfed to the right side for the first time. On 4 January 2012, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Kohl Christensen, Jeff Rowley, Dave Wassel, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Carlos Burle, Nate Fletcher, Garrett McNamara, Kai Barger, North Shore locals and other of the best big-wave surfers in the world invaded the Hawaiian Islands for a historic day of surfing. Surfers had to catch and survive the wave at Jaws Peahi, on the north shore of
Maui Maui (; Hawaiian language, Hawaiian: ) is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago, at 727.2 square miles (1,883 km2). It is the List of islands of the United States by area, 17th-largest in the United States. Maui is one of ...
, without the use of a jet ski. Jeff Rowley made Australian history by being the first Australian to paddle into a 50-foot plus (15m) wave at Jaws Peahi, Hawaii, achieving his 'Charge for Charity' mission set for 2011, to raise money for Breast Cancer Australia. On 30–31 January 2012, Jeff Rowley and a number of international big wave surfers including Greg Long, Shaun Walsh and Albee Layer spent two days paddle-surfing Jaws, on the Hawaiian island of Maui, as part of their ongoing big-wave paddle-in program at the deep-water reef, further cementing the new frontier of paddle-in surfing at Jaws. On 12 March 2012, Jeff Rowley paddled into Mavericks Left, California, and became the first Australian to accomplish this task. Mavericks is traditionally known as a right-hander wave and Rowley pushed the boundaries of what was possible at the Mavericks left-hander, a task that wasn't without its challenges, requiring a vertical drop into the wave. On 30 March 2012, Jeff Rowley was a finalist in the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards 2011/2012, in the Ride of the Year category with his rides at Jaws Peahi in Maui, Hawaii on 30 January 2012, placing 4th place in the world of elite big wave surfers.


Big wave surfing world records


Male

German surfer Sebastian Steudtner broke the record in October 2020 off the coast of Praia do Norte, Nazaré, Portugal, when he surfed through an wave.


Female

According to
Guinness World Records ''Guinness World Records'', known from its inception in 1955 until 1999 as ''The Guinness Book of Records'' and in previous United States editions as ''The Guinness Book of World Records'', is a British reference book published annually, list ...
, Australian Laura Enever holds the women's big wave record, surfing a wave in Oahu in January 2023 to break the world record by 30cm. However, the record is not without controversy, as she wiped out at the base of the wave, and it has even been claimed that Justine Dupont rode a wave (although she, too, is said to have wiped out), although this claim has not been ratified by Guinness.


Big Wave Surfing Contest

The oldest and most prestigious big wave contest is
The Eddie The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational (colloquially, "The Eddie") is a big wave surfing tournament held at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii. The tournament is named for native Hawaiian, champion big wave surfer, and life-saving Wa ...
, named after Oahu north shore Hawai'ian lifeguard and surfer Eddie Aikau. The competition window is between 1 December and the last day of February annually. Another big wave surfing contest hosted by Red Bull is held at Jaws Peahi, with invitation of 21 of the best big wave surfers in the world. The waiting period for the contest is from 7 December to 15 March. Some of the known invitees to the contest include Jeff Rowley, Albee Layer, Greg Long, Shane Dorian, Kai Lenny, Ian Walsh. From 1999 to 2016, Mavericks was a premier big wave contest. The first year's results were first place, Darryl Virostko ("Flea"); second place, Richard Schmidt (surfer); third place, Ross Clarke-Jones; and fourth place, Peter Mel. This contest was last held in 2016, and has been indefinitely cancelled by the
World Surf League The World Surf League (WSL) is the governing body for professional surfing, surfers and is dedicated to showcasing the world's best talent in a variety of progressive formats. The WSL was originally known as International Professional Surfing ( ...
. Beginning in 2014–15, the World Surf League (WSL) has sanctioned the Big Wave World Tour (BWWT). On 28 February 2015, Makua Rothman became the first WSL BWWT Champion with 20,833 points outscoring the runner-up, Gabriel Villaran of
Peru Peru, officially the Republic of Peru, is a country in western South America. It is bordered in the north by Ecuador and Colombia, in the east by Brazil, in the southeast by Bolivia, in the south by Chile, and in the south and west by the Pac ...
, by almost 7,000 points. On 11 November 2016, Paige Alms of Maui was crowned the first women's big wave surfing champion at Jaws on Maui during the Pe'ahi Women's Challenge which was part of the Women's Big Wave Tour #1 held 15 Oct – 11 November 2016, at
Haiku is a type of short form poetry that originated in Japan. Traditional Japanese haiku consist of three phrases composed of 17 Mora (linguistics), morae (called ''On (Japanese prosody), on'' in Japanese) in a 5, 7, 5 pattern; that include a ''kire ...
, Hawaii. This was the first big wave surfing contest ever held for women. The results were in first place Paige Alms (Hawaii), second place Justine Dupont (
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
), third place Felicity Palmateer (Australia), and tied for fourth place Keala Kennelly (Hawaii), Emily Erickson (Hawaii), and Laura Enever (Australia).


Big Wave Surfing Awards

Since 2005, the world's best big wave surfers gather in " Surf City"
Huntington Beach, California Huntington Beach is a seaside city in Orange County, California, United States. The city was originally called Pacific City, but it was changed in 1903 to be named after American businessman Henry E. Huntington. The population was 198,711 as of ...
, for the annual
World Surf League The World Surf League (WSL) is the governing body for professional surfing, surfers and is dedicated to showcasing the world's best talent in a variety of progressive formats. The WSL was originally known as International Professional Surfing ( ...
(WSL) Big Wave Awards hosted by surfer Strider Wastlewski. The gala ceremony is currently held at the Pasea Hotel and Spa and nominated surfers are awarded for their greatest rides of the past year and the big wave community is celebrated. The event raises the bar every year, with $350,000 in prize money allotted across seven categories: *"XXL Biggest Wave" *"Biggest Paddle Wave" *"Tube of the Year" *"Best Overall Performance" *"Women's Performance" *"Wipeout Award" *"Ride of the Year". The seven winners are given top honors and a TAG Heuer watch for another WSL big wave season.


WSL Big Wave Championship Tour champions

WSL Big Wave Championship Tour champions


Notable big wave surfing spots


Australia

* No Toes,
New South Wales New South Wales (commonly abbreviated as NSW) is a States and territories of Australia, state on the Eastern states of Australia, east coast of :Australia. It borders Queensland to the north, Victoria (state), Victoria to the south, and South ...
,
Australia Australia, officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country comprising mainland Australia, the mainland of the Australia (continent), Australian continent, the island of Tasmania and list of islands of Australia, numerous smaller isl ...
* Dangerous Banks,
Tasmania Tasmania (; palawa kani: ''Lutruwita'') is an island States and territories of Australia, state of Australia. It is located to the south of the Mainland Australia, Australian mainland, and is separated from it by the Bass Strait. The sta ...
, Australia * Pedra Branca, Tasmania, Australia * Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania, Australia * Cow Bombie,
Western Australia Western Australia (WA) is the westernmost state of Australia. It is bounded by the Indian Ocean to the north and west, the Southern Ocean to the south, the Northern Territory to the north-east, and South Australia to the south-east. Western Aust ...
, Australia * Cyclops, Western Australia, Australia * Tombstones, Western Australia, Australia * The Right, Western Australia, Australia


United States (Mainland)

* Cortes Bank,
California California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
, United States * Ghost Trees, California, United States * Mavericks, California, United States * The Wedge, California, United States * Nelscott Reef,
Oregon Oregon ( , ) is a U.S. state, state in the Pacific Northwest region of the United States. It is a part of the Western U.S., with the Columbia River delineating much of Oregon's northern boundary with Washington (state), Washington, while t ...
, USA


Oceania

* Cloudbreak,
Fiji Fiji, officially the Republic of Fiji, is an island country in Melanesia, part of Oceania in the South Pacific Ocean. It lies about north-northeast of New Zealand. Fiji consists of an archipelago of more than 330 islands—of which about ...
* Teahupoo, Tahiti, France * Papatowai, The Catlins, New Zealand * Jaws/Peahi,
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
, United States *
Pipeline A pipeline is a system of Pipe (fluid conveyance), pipes for long-distance transportation of a liquid or gas, typically to a market area for consumption. The latest data from 2014 gives a total of slightly less than of pipeline in 120 countries ...
, Hawaii, United States * Sunset Beach, Hawaii, United States * Waimea Bay, Hawaii, United States


Europe

* Cribbar, Newquay,
Cornwall Cornwall (; or ) is a Ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in South West England. It is also one of the Celtic nations and the homeland of the Cornish people. The county is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north and west, ...
,
United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Northwestern Europe, off the coast of European mainland, the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotlan ...
* Aileens, Cliffs of Moher,
County Clare County Clare () is a Counties of Ireland, county in the Provinces of Ireland, province of Munster in the Southern Region, Ireland, Southern part of Republic of Ireland, Ireland, bordered on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. Clare County Council ...
,
Ireland Ireland (, ; ; Ulster Scots dialect, Ulster-Scots: ) is an island in the North Atlantic Ocean, in Northwestern Europe. Geopolitically, the island is divided between the Republic of Ireland (officially Names of the Irish state, named Irelan ...
* Mullaghmore, Ireland *
Madeira Madeira ( ; ), officially the Autonomous Region of Madeira (), is an autonomous Regions of Portugal, autonomous region of Portugal. It is an archipelago situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, in the region of Macaronesia, just under north of ...
,
Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic, is a country on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. Featuring Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe, Portugal borders Spain to its north and east, with which it share ...
* Nazaré,
Portugal Portugal, officially the Portuguese Republic, is a country on the Iberian Peninsula in Southwestern Europe. Featuring Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in continental Europe, Portugal borders Spain to its north and east, with which it share ...
* Punta Galea between
Getxo Getxo () (Spanish: ''Guecho'') is a town located in the province of Biscay, in the autonomous community of the Basque Country (autonomous community), Basque Country, in Spain. It is part of Greater Bilbao, and has 75,430 inhabitants (2023). Getxo ...
and Sopela, Basque Country,
Spain Spain, or the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. Featuring the Punta de Tarifa, southernmost point of continental Europe, it is the largest country in Southern Eur ...
* Aizpurupe near
Zarautz Zarautz (, ) is a coastal town located in central Gipuzkoa, Basque Country, in Spain. It is bordered by Aia to the east and the south and Getaria, Gipuzkoa, Getaria to the west, located about west of San Sebastián, Donostia/San Sebastián. It ha ...
,
Gipuzkoa Gipuzkoa ( , ; ; ) is a province of Spain and a historical territory of the autonomous community of the Basque Country. Its capital city is Donostia-San Sebastián. Gipuzkoa shares borders with the French department of Pyrénées-Atlantiqu ...
, Basque Country,
Spain Spain, or the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. Featuring the Punta de Tarifa, southernmost point of continental Europe, it is the largest country in Southern Eur ...
* Belharra, Basque Country,
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...


Latin America

* Praia da Vila, Santa Catarina,
Brazil Brazil, officially the Federative Republic of Brazil, is the largest country in South America. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by area, fifth-largest country by area and the List of countries and dependencies by population ...
* Praia do Cardoso, Santa Catarina,
Brazil Brazil, officially the Federative Republic of Brazil, is the largest country in South America. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by area, fifth-largest country by area and the List of countries and dependencies by population ...
* El Buey, Arica,
Chile Chile, officially the Republic of Chile, is a country in western South America. It is the southernmost country in the world and the closest to Antarctica, stretching along a narrow strip of land between the Andes, Andes Mountains and the Paci ...
* Punta de Lobos,
Chile Chile, officially the Republic of Chile, is a country in western South America. It is the southernmost country in the world and the closest to Antarctica, stretching along a narrow strip of land between the Andes, Andes Mountains and the Paci ...
* Puerto Escondido,
Mexico Mexico, officially the United Mexican States, is a country in North America. It is the northernmost country in Latin America, and borders the United States to the north, and Guatemala and Belize to the southeast; while having maritime boundar ...
* Todos Santos, Baja,
Mexico Mexico, officially the United Mexican States, is a country in North America. It is the northernmost country in Latin America, and borders the United States to the north, and Guatemala and Belize to the southeast; while having maritime boundar ...
*Pico Alto, Punta Hermosa,
Lima Lima ( ; ), founded in 1535 as the Ciudad de los Reyes (, Spanish for "City of Biblical Magi, Kings"), is the capital and largest city of Peru. It is located in the valleys of the Chillón River, Chillón, Rímac River, Rímac and Lurín Rive ...
,
Peru Peru, officially the Republic of Peru, is a country in western South America. It is bordered in the north by Ecuador and Colombia, in the east by Brazil, in the southeast by Bolivia, in the south by Chile, and in the south and west by the Pac ...


Caribbean

* Tres Palmas,
Puerto Rico ; abbreviated PR), officially the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, is a Government of Puerto Rico, self-governing Caribbean Geography of Puerto Rico, archipelago and island organized as an Territories of the United States, unincorporated territo ...


Africa

* Dungeons,
Cape Town Cape Town is the legislature, legislative capital city, capital of South Africa. It is the country's oldest city and the seat of the Parliament of South Africa. Cape Town is the country's List of municipalities in South Africa, second-largest ...
,
South Africa South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the Southern Africa, southernmost country in Africa. Its Provinces of South Africa, nine provinces are bounded to the south by of coastline that stretches along the Atlantic O ...


Notable big wave surfers

* Nathan Fletcher Hawaii * Chris Bertish South Africa * Lucas "Chumbo" Chianca Brazil * Carlos Burle Brazil * Koby Abberton Australia * Eddie Aikau Hawaii * Grant "Twiggy" Baker South Africa * Ken Bradshaw Hawaii * Tom Carroll Australia * Jeff Clark USA * Ross Clarke-Jones Australia * Shane Dorian Hawaii * John John Florence Hawaii * Jérémy Florès France * Justine Dupont France *
Mark Foo Mark Sheldon Foo was a professional Surfing, surfer who favored big wave surfing. Foo drowned while surfing at Mavericks (location), Mavericks, Half Moon Bay, California, in 1994. Early life Mark Foo was born in Singapore on February 5, 1958, ...
Singapore * Maya Gabeira Brazil * Laird Hamilton Hawaii * Malik Joyeux Tahiti, France * Dave Kalama Hawaii * Keala Kennelly Hawaii * Kai Lenny Hawaii * Greg Long USA * Mark Mathews Australia * Garrett McNamara Hawaii * Peter Mel USA * Jay Moriarity USA * Greg Noll USA * Jamie O'Brien Hawaii * Felicity Palmateer Australia * Mike Parsons USA * Bob Pike Australia * Makua Rothman Hawaii * Jeff Rowley Australia * Will Skudin New York * Sebastian Steudtner, Germany * Buzzy Trent Hawaii * Mark Visser Australia * Rodrigo Koxa Brazil * Mike Stewart Hawaii * Conor Maguire Ireland * Andrew Cotton United Kingdom


Big wave surfing movies

*'' Surf's Up 2: WaveMania'' (2017 sequel, fiction) *'' Distance between Dreams'' (2016) * ''Point Break'' (2015 remake, fiction) * ''View from a Blue Moon'' (2015) *MAD DOGS - The Conquest of Jaws (2015) *
Surfing giant waves
' (2023)Canal sentir (Mexico)) * ''Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau'' (2013) * ''Storm Surfers 3D'' (2012) *'' Chasing Mavericks'' (2012, biographical drama film) *'' Fighting Fear'' (2011) *'' Waveriders'' (2008) * ''Pipeline'' (2007) * ''Surf's Up'' (2007, fiction) *'' Billabong Odyssey'' (2005) *'' Riding Giants'' (2004) *'' Step Into Liquid'' (2003) *'' Die Another Day'' (2002, fiction) *'' Strapped'' (2002) *'' Laird'' (2002) * ''In God's Hands'' (1998, fiction) *'' Point Break'' (1991, fiction) *'' Big Wednesday'' (1978) *'' Ride the Wild Surf'' (1964, fiction) * ''Surfing Hollow Days'' (1961)


See also

* Diving hazards and precautions * "Eddie Would Go"


References

* Warshaw, Matt. ''Mavericks: the story of big-wave surfing'', Chronicle Books, *Warshaw, Matt. "The Encyclopedia of Surfing." (2003).


External links


Wave Warrior
(pbs.org)

{{Surfing