Bibliographie (climb)
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''Bibliographie'' is a circa
sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
route on a
limestone Limestone is a type of carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material Lime (material), lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different Polymorphism (materials science) ...
cliff on the southern face of
Céüse Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
. The route was
bolted Bolt or bolts may refer to: Implements and technology ''Etymology: "to strike", see for example Thunderbolt'' * Bolt (fastener), a threaded shaft, used to clamp two components together * Bolt (climbing), an anchor point used in rock climbing * ...
in 2009 by
Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle (born May 30, 1986, in San Francisco, California) is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing (his 2015 repeat of ''Jumbo Love'', the world's first 9b-graded route), in traditional climbing (his 2016 ascent of ...
, and was first ascended by
Alexander Megos Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a graded route. He has made the first free ascen ...
on 5 August 2020. Megos initially graded the route as , the highest difficulty at that time. The route was repeated on 24 August 2021 by
Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition boulderin ...
, who graded the route as , which has become the consensus grade for ''Bibliographie'', making it only the fifth-ever climb in history at a grade of 9b+.


History

''Bibliographie'' was bolted by the American climber
Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle (born May 30, 1986, in San Francisco, California) is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing (his 2015 repeat of ''Jumbo Love'', the world's first 9b-graded route), in traditional climbing (his 2016 ascent of ...
in 2009, and it lies just a few metres to the right of
Chris Sharma Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
's famous 2001 '' Realization/Biography'' route. Megos first started working on the route in June 2017, and was still unsuccessful after a four-week visit in September of that year. In June 2018, after 16 days of work, he freed the route ''Perfecto Mundo'', in
Margalef Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
, and decided to go straight to Céüse, but again without success. In 2019, he concentrated on climbing competitions and only spent three days in Céüse. During the
COVID-19 pandemic The COVID-19 pandemic (also known as the coronavirus pandemic and COVID pandemic), caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2), began with an disease outbreak, outbreak of COVID-19 in Wuhan, China, in December ...
, all climbing competitions were canceled, so Megos refocused on ''Bibliographie'' again. On the last day of a trip to the crag, and after having fallen lower down on the route, Megos made the first free ascent of ''Bibliographie'' on 5 August 2020.


Grade

Megos spent 60 days working on ''Bibliographie'', which led him to suggest a grade of (i.e. it had taken him much longer than the 16 days needed for ''Perfecto Mundo'', which was by then a consensus 9b+ route), making ''Bibliographie'' the second-ever route at the grade, after
Adam Ondra Adam Ondra (; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, ''Rock & Ice'' described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondr ...
's ''
Silence Silence is the absence of ambient hearing, audible sound, the emission of sounds of such low sound intensity, intensity that they do not draw attention to themselves, or the state of having ceased to produce sounds; this latter sense can be exten ...
''. At the time, Megos told ''
Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became e ...
'' that grading such a route was particularly hard given he started with no beta, and had no other opinions to rely on; he added: "I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people’s opinions". Other climbers unsuccessfully attempted ''Bibliographie'' including
Jakob Schubert Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time IFSC Climbing World Championships, World Champion (2012, ...
,
Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition boulderin ...
and Dave Graham. On 24 August 2021, Stefano Ghisolfi made the first repeat of ''Bibliographie'' but graded the route as ; Ghisolfi had previously repeated Megos' ''Perfecto Mundo'', which was a consensus 9b+, and also Adam Ondra's ', which was also considered a 9b+. Megos consulted and publicly agreed with Ghisolfi, making the accepted grade for ''Bibliographie''; the fifth-ever climbing route to have such a grade.


Ascents

''Bibliographie'' has been ascended by: * 1st
Alexander Megos Alexander "Alex" Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a graded route. He has made the first free ascen ...
, 5 August 2020. * 2nd
Stefano Ghisolfi Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition boulderin ...
, August 2021. * 3rd
Sean Bailey Sean Bailey is an American film and television producer. He served as president of Walt Disney Studios Motion Picture Production from 2010 to 2024. Career Early career As a co-founder and executive of LivePlanet, Bailey served as executive ...
, September 2021. * 4th
Sébastien Bouin Sébastien Bouin (born 7 April 1993) is a French rock climber born in Draguignan. By 2022, Bouin is regarded as one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, being only the second-ever climber to establish a route graded , with ' in 2022, ...
, June 2023. * 5th , October 2023.


See also

*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, Pitch (climbing), single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing, big wall (and multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-ce ...
*
List of grade milestones in rock climbing In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch or bouldering, bouldering climbing route that ...
* ''
Silence Silence is the absence of ambient hearing, audible sound, the emission of sounds of such low sound intensity, intensity that they do not draw attention to themselves, or the state of having ceased to produce sounds; this latter sense can be exten ...
'', first climb in the world with a potential grade of * ''
La Dura Dura ''La Dura Dura'' is a sport climbing route on the multi-coloured limestone cliffs known as the Contrafort de Rumbau, which are part of the mountain, that lies in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma ...
'', second climb in the world to be graded * '' Realization/Biographie'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of * '' Action Directe'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of * '' Hubble'', first climb in the world with a consensus grade of


References

{{reflist


External links


Bibliographie
''Hard Climbs'' (2023)
VIDEO: Watch Alex Megos Red Point Film Rotpunkt
a 2020 film that includes Megos' on ''Bibliographie'', ''Gripped Magazine'' (February 2020)
VIDEO:See the actual Holds on Bibliographie 5.15d in France
''Gripped Magazine'' (August 2021)
VIDEO:Watch Historical Repeat of “5.15d” That Ended With Downgrade to 5.15c
''Gripped Magazine'' (December 2021) Sport climbing routes Climbing areas of France Sport in Hautes-Alpes Climbing in France