Belle Kogan
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Belle Kogan (1902–2000) was a Russian-American
industrial designer Industrial design is a process of design applied to physical products that are to be manufactured by mass production. It is the creative act of determining and defining a product's form and features, which takes place in advance of the manufactu ...
and is regarded as the first prominent female in the profession in the United States (Godmother of Industrial Design) as well as one of the founders of the profession itself.- IDSA Design History Section - Belle Kogan
In 1994, she was recognized as a fellow of both the Industrial Designers Society of America (IDSA) and Industrial Designers Institute (IDI).


Early life and education

Kogan was born in Ilyashevka, Russia, on June 26, 1902, and emigrated to
Allentown, Pennsylvania Allentown (Pennsylvania Dutch language, Pennsylvania Dutch: ''Allenschteddel'', ''Allenschtadt'', or ''Ellsdaun'') is a city in eastern Pennsylvania, United States. The county seat of Lehigh County, Pennsylvania, Lehigh County, it is the List o ...
, in 1906. From an early age, she showed an interest in art.''Women Designers of the USA 1900-2000'' Regarding her senior year of high school, Kogan says, "...an unexplained inspiration on the part of my high school art teacher induced her to have me study Mechanical Drawing." Kogan was the only girl in the class. She graduated from Bethlehem High School with an art scholarship to
Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Art The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts (PAFA) is a museum and private art school in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Founded in 1805, it is the longest continuously operating art museum and art school in the United States. The academy's museum ...
. However, after graduating, she opted to go to Pratt Institute in Brooklyn instead, while teaching the class on mechanical drawing to fund herself. In 1920, she was forced to leave while in her first semester at Pratt to manage her father's jewelry store.Rice, "Belle Kogan Remembers" (1994): 39. During this time, she also attended the Art Students League in Manhattan.


Career

In 1929 she turned to design and began her first work for the Karolith Corporation. In 1929, she was employed by the Quaker Silver Company, which trained her as a silver designer at
Rhode Island School of Design The Rhode Island School of Design (RISD , pronounced "Riz-D") is a private art and design school in Providence, Rhode Island. The school was founded as a coeducational institution in 1877 by Helen Adelia Rowe Metcalf, who sought to increase th ...
and the Germany Art School in
Pforzheim Pforzheim () is a List of cities and towns in Germany, city of over 125,000 inhabitants in the federal state of Baden-Württemberg, in the southwest of Germany. It is known for its jewelry and watch-making industry, and as such has gained the ...
. In the summer of 1929, Quaker paid for Kogan to take a course at
New York University New York University (NYU) is a private university, private research university in New York City, New York, United States. Chartered in 1831 by the New York State Legislature, NYU was founded in 1832 by Albert Gallatin as a Nondenominational ...
that according to Kogan: She was employed by the Quaker Silver Co. in late 1929 through early 1930, before leaving for Kunstgewerbe Shule Germany where she took art classes. In July 1932, she opened her own design studio, Belle Kogan Associates (BKA), at 185 Madison Avenue in New York City with a retainer from Quaker and started designing houseware products for
Bausch & Lomb Bausch & Lomb (since 2010 stylized as Bausch + Lomb) is an American-Canadian eye health products company based in Vaughan, Ontario, Canada. It is one of the world's largest suppliers of contact lenses, lens care products, pharmaceuticals, intra ...
, Bakelite Corp,
Dow Chemical Company The Dow Chemical Company is an American multinational corporation headquartered in Midland, Michigan, United States. The company was among the three largest chemical producers in the world in 2021. It is the operating subsidiary of Dow Inc., ...
,
Federal Glass Federal or foederal (archaic) may refer to: Politics General *Federal monarchy, a federation of monarchies *Federation, or ''Federal state'' (federal system), a type of government characterized by both a central (federal) government and states or ...
, Haviland & Co.,
Libbey Glass Libbey, Inc., (formerly Libbey Glass Company and New England Glass Company) is a glass production company headquartered in Toledo, Ohio. It was originally founded in 1818 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, as the ''New England Glass Company,'' before re ...
, Maryland Plastics, Red Wing Pottery,
Reed & Barton Reed & Barton was a prominent American silversmith manufacturer based in the city of Taunton, Massachusetts, operating between 1824 and 2015. Its products include sterling silver and silverplate flatware. The company produced many varieties of b ...
, Towle Manufacturing Co., and US Glass. Belle also was hired to make designs for Zippo Manufacturing in 1938. Five years later, she traveled throughout Europe to study trends in Scandinavian design and by 1939 found herself at the forefront of modern design in the United States. She was one of the first industrial designers to experiment with plastics. Her early experimentation included celluloid toilet sets and clocks, a chrome-plated toaster with a plastic base, and
Bakelite Bakelite ( ), formally , is a thermosetting polymer, thermosetting phenol formaldehyde resin, formed from a condensation reaction of phenol with formaldehyde. The first plastic made from synthetic components, it was developed by Belgian chemist ...
jewelry. She said:
In plastics the manufacturer has a material with tremendous possibilities. It is still in the active process of growth and development, but is rapidly gaining its stride. It is a material which no manufacturer, if he be alert and watchful of his competition, can afford to overlook. Radios, clocks, dishes, jewelry—all being developed in plastics today—have enormous significance."As a Woman Sees Design: An Interview with Belle Kogan," ''Modern Plastics'', vol. 13, no.4 (December 1935): 16-17, 49, 51.
Kogan believed that "good design should keep the consumer happy and the manufacturer in the black." In an interview Kogan said, "Today there is probably no one group more keenly alive to the caprices and demands of the buying public as industrial designers. The designer's viewpoint, therefore, is a valuable one from the basis of manufacture as well as from the basis of merchandising and selling. It is a broad conception of the consumers' desire." Kogan also provided designs for Ebeling & Reiss, Federal Glass Co., Red Wing Pottery and Reed & Barton. She designed melamine dinnerware for the Boonton Modelling Co. where she worked for a number of years. She employed a full-time staff a staff of three women designers by 1939.Jane Corby, "Smart Girls," ''Brooklyn Eagle'' (26 July 1939). Kogan was the focus of the 1946 one-woman show at the
Philadelphia Art Alliance The Philadelphia Art Alliance at University of the Arts was a multidisciplinary arts center located in the Rittenhouse Square section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It was the oldest multidisciplinary arts center in the United States for visual, ...
. By this time, she was considered to be the 'only woman freelance silverware designer'. Belle Kogan would continue to produce designs in America until 1970.


Context

Women had little or no place in the workshop or factory before the 1860s. "Their entry into design education and practice coincided with their emergence as patrons, clients and customers at the turn of the century." Social-cultural anthropologist
Arjun Appadurai Arjun Appadurai FRAI (born 4 February 1949) is an Indian-American anthropologist who has been recognized as a major theorist in globalization studies. He is an elected fellow of the Royal Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland ...
comments that "...women are forced to enter the labor force in new ways on the one hand, and continue the maintenance of familial heritage on the other." Kogan chose a career saying, By the end of World War I, women had begun to enter the world of design. The entry was not always welcome though. In a 1939 interview, Kogan said "manufacturers were quite antagonistic when a woman came around proposing new ideas–they didn't think a woman knew enough about the mechanical aspects of the situation." On one occasion, Women designers took a practical approach to the design of housewares. Kogan was very much at the forefront of this. She remarked that Continuing Kogan said,
The women of today those who belong to the middle classes (and these are the women who comprise the greatest group of consumers) want attractive things, things which are smart and things which are new. They are still interested in keeping up with the ‘Joneses.’ Items, to be readily acceptable, cannot, however, be too extreme in design. Such items do not fit into the average home, decorated as it is, with objects which are not too modern or severe in color or form.


Impact

Industrial design emerges as a distinct profession in the United States in the late 1920s. Competition between companies created by the Depression led companies to focus on visual form to increase sales. This placed increasing emphasis on the in-house industrial designer as a key component of industrial production. Men such as
Raymond Loewy Raymond Loewy ( , ; November 5, 1893 – July 14, 1986) was a French-born American industrial designer who achieved fame for the magnitude of his design efforts across a variety of industries. He was recognized for this by ''Time'' magazi ...
,
Walter Dorwin Teague Walter Dorwin Teague (December 18, 1883 – December 5, 1960) was an American industrial designer, architect, illustrator, graphic designer, writer, and entrepreneur. Often referred to as the "Dean of Industrial Design", Teague pioneered in th ...
, and
Norman Bel Geddes Norman Bel Geddes (born Norman Melancton Geddes; April 27, 1893 – May 8, 1958) was an American theatrical and industrial designer, described in 2012 by the New York Times as "a brilliant craftsman and draftsman, a master of style, the 20t ...
began heading their own firms. Belle Kogan became the only woman of the time to do the same. Throughout her career she had a wide range of notable clients including Reed and Barton, Red Wing Pottery,
Bausch and Lomb Bausch & Lomb (since 2010 stylized as Bausch + Lomb) is an American-Canadian eye health products company based in Vaughan, Ontario, Canada. It is one of the world's largest suppliers of contact lenses, lens care products, pharmaceuticals, intra ...
,
Boonton Molding Boonton () is a town in Morris County, in the U.S. state of New Jersey. As of the 2020 United States census, the town's population was 8,815, an increase of 468 (+5.6%) from the 2010 census count of 8,347, which in turn reflected a decline o ...
,
Libbey Glass Libbey, Inc., (formerly Libbey Glass Company and New England Glass Company) is a glass production company headquartered in Toledo, Ohio. It was originally founded in 1818 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, as the ''New England Glass Company,'' before re ...
, and
Dow Chemical The Dow Chemical Company is an American multinational corporation headquartered in Midland, Michigan, United States. The company was among the three largest chemical producers in the world in 2021. It is the operating subsidiary of Dow Inc., ...
. She spoke on television and radio, gave lectures and interviews, wrote and exhibited her work frequently. In the late 1930s, she was one of the founding members of the New York chapter of the American Designers Institute (ADI), which later evolved into the Industrial Designers Institute (IDI) and then the
Industrial Designers Society of America The Industrial Designers Society of America (IDSA) is a membership-based not-for-profit organization that promotes the practice and education of industrial design. The organization was formally established in 1965 by the collaborative merger of t ...
(IDSA). She received the Personal Recognition Award in 1994 from the
Industrial Designers Society of America The Industrial Designers Society of America (IDSA) is a membership-based not-for-profit organization that promotes the practice and education of industrial design. The organization was formally established in 1965 by the collaborative merger of t ...
.Rice, "Belle Kogan Remembers" (1994): 34-35.


References



Smithsonian Archives of American Art, information on a collection of work by Belle Kogan with a short bio * Dinoto, Andrea. "Diversity and Difference: Women Designers in the USA, 1900-2000.", 61.2 (2001): 72-75. * rown, R. F. New England [papers and documents received Archives of American Art Journal v. 33 no. 3 (1993) p. 36-7]

by IDSA, Short biographical information from an industrial design professional society


External links

* Information on the Belle Kogan Papers,

* Belle Kogan Fact Shee

* Collection of rare Zippo lighters designed by Belle Koga



by Belle Kogan, Patent: Design for Cup

by Belle Kogan, Patent: Design for a Clock Case

{{DEFAULTSORT:Kogan, Belle 1902 births 2000 deaths American industrial designers Emigrants from the Russian Empire to the United States Artists from Allentown, Pennsylvania