Barwick, Devon
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Iddesleigh ( ) is a village and
civil parish In England, a civil parish is a type of administrative parish used for local government. It is a territorial designation which is the lowest tier of local government. Civil parishes can trace their origin to the ancient system of parishes, w ...
in the county of
Devon Devon ( ; historically also known as Devonshire , ) is a ceremonial county in South West England. It is bordered by the Bristol Channel to the north, Somerset and Dorset to the east, the English Channel to the south, and Cornwall to the west ...
, England. The settlement has ancient origins and is listed in the ''
Domesday Book Domesday Book ( ; the Middle English spelling of "Doomsday Book") is a manuscript record of the Great Survey of much of England and parts of Wales completed in 1086 at the behest of William the Conqueror. The manuscript was originally known by ...
''. The village lies on the B3217 road, roughly central in its parish of around , about north of the town of
Okehampton Okehampton ( ) is a town and civil parishes in England, civil parish in West Devon in the English county of Devon. At the 2021 census, the parish had a population of 7,313, which was slightly more than the 7,104 recorded at the 2011 census. Th ...
. Iddesleigh has been described as an attractive small village, with good views of
Dartmoor Dartmoor is an upland area in southern Devon, South West England. The moorland and surrounding land has been protected by National Park status since 1951. Dartmoor National Park covers . The granite that forms the uplands dates from the Carb ...
to the south. Its church is a Grade I
listed building In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, Hi ...
and there are a number of other listed buildings in the parish.


Toponymy and early history

The name ''Iddesleigh'' derives from the
Old English Old English ( or , or ), or Anglo-Saxon, is the earliest recorded form of the English language, spoken in England and southern and eastern Scotland in the Early Middle Ages. It developed from the languages brought to Great Britain by Anglo-S ...
personal name, ''Ēadwīġ'' (or perhaps ''Ēadwulf''), and ''lēah'', a wood or clearing. The first documentary evidence of the settlement appears in the ''
Domesday Book Domesday Book ( ; the Middle English spelling of "Doomsday Book") is a manuscript record of the Great Survey of much of England and parts of Wales completed in 1086 at the behest of William the Conqueror. The manuscript was originally known by ...
'' (1086), where it is referred to twice, as ''Edeslege'' and as ''Iweslei''. By the 13th century its name was recorded as ''Edulvesly'' and in 1428 as ''Yeddeslegh''. ''Domesday Book'' shows that in 1086 the majority of the manor of Iddesleigh (under the name of ''Edeslege'') was owned directly by the king, but a small part of it (one
virgate The virgate, yardland, or yard of land ( was an English unit of land. Primarily a measure of tax assessment rather than area, the virgate was usually (but not always) reckoned as   hide and notionally (but seldom exactly) equal to 30 acr ...
recorded as ''Iweslei'') was held from the king by William of Claville. The pre-conquest owner of this land is unclear: two women's names – Alware Pet and Aelfeva Thief – are recorded. The
overlord An overlord in the English feudal system was a lord of a manor who had subinfeudated a particular manor, estate or fee, to a tenant. The tenant thenceforth owed to the overlord one of a variety of services, usually military service or ...
is recorded as
Brictric son of Algar Brictric was a powerful English thane whose many English landholdings, mostly in the West Country, are recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086. Life According to the account by the ''Continuator of Wace'' and others, in his youth Brictric declined t ...
. ''Edeslege'' is discussed on page 1,63 and ''Iweslei'' on page 24,22. By the 13th century the lands had passed to the de Reigny family as part of the
honour Honour (Commonwealth English) or honor (American English; American and British English spelling differences#-our, -or, see spelling differences) is a quality of a person that is of both social teaching and personal ethos, that manifests itself ...
of Gloucester.


Geography

The village is north-east of
Hatherleigh Hatherleigh is a small market town in the West Devon district, in the county of Devon, England. In 2011 the parish had a population of 1306. It hosts an arts festival in July, and a carnival in November featuring two flaming tar barrel runs. T ...
and north of
Okehampton Okehampton ( ) is a town and civil parishes in England, civil parish in West Devon in the English county of Devon. At the 2021 census, the parish had a population of 7,313, which was slightly more than the 7,104 recorded at the 2011 census. Th ...
. It is roughly in the centre of its parish, on the B3217 road that runs from Okehampton to Atherington, near the A377. The parish, which covers about on the
Culm Measures The Culm Measures are a thick sequence of geological stratum, strata originating during the Carboniferous Period that occur in south-west England, principally in Devon and Cornwall, now known as the Culm Supergroup. Its estimated thickness varies b ...
, has its southern border along the
River Okement The River Okement is a tributary of the River Torridge in Devon, England. It rises at two places in Dartmoor, as the West Okement and the East Okement. These meet with other minor streams and join together at Okehampton. The river flows general ...
and its western along the
River Torridge The River Torridge is a river in Devon in England; it rises near Meddon. The river describes a long loop through Devon farming country where its tributaries the Lew and Okement join before meeting the Taw at Appledore and flowing into the Bristol ...
. Clockwise from the north, it is bordered by the parishes of Dowland,
Winkleigh Winkleigh is a civil parish and small village in Devon, England. It is part of the local government area of Torridge District Council. The population of the parish at the 2011 census was 1,305, compared to 1,079 in 1901. The population of the el ...
,
Broadwoodkelly Broadwoodkelly is a village and civil parish in the West Devon district of Devon, England. According to the 2001 census it had a population of 218. The village is situated about north of Okehampton. Much of the church is 15th century, but it ...
,
Monkokehampton Monkokehampton is a village and civil parish in West Devon, England. The village lies on the River Okement, about east-north-east of Hatherleigh. The parish is bounded by Hatherleigh, Exbourne, Broadwoodkelly and Iddesleigh, and had a popul ...
,
Hatherleigh Hatherleigh is a small market town in the West Devon district, in the county of Devon, England. In 2011 the parish had a population of 1306. It hosts an arts festival in July, and a carnival in November featuring two flaming tar barrel runs. T ...
and
Meeth Meeth is a village and civil parish in the West Devon district, in the county of Devon, England roughly north-northwest of Okehampton and west-northwest of Exeter. It lies to the west of the River Torridge. In the past, ball clay mines were a ...
. In 2001, the population of the parish was 198, down from 335 in 1901, and 441 in 1801.


The village

The landscape historian
W. G. Hoskins William George Hoskins (22 May 1908 – 11 January 1992) was an English local historian who founded the first university department of English Local History. His great contribution to the study of history was in the field of landscape history. ...
, writing in 1953, described the village as "an excellent example of a cob and thatch village, most attractive to explore", and in 1973 S. H. Burton wrote that it gave the appearance of being " thatchier" than anywhere else in Devon. Situated on a south-facing slope, the village has good views of northern
Dartmoor Dartmoor is an upland area in southern Devon, South West England. The moorland and surrounding land has been protected by National Park status since 1951. Dartmoor National Park covers . The granite that forms the uplands dates from the Carb ...
, including its highest point,
High Willhays High Willhays ( , ), or according to some authorities High Willes, is the highest point on Dartmoor, Devon, at above sea level,Dartmoor National Park Authority, General Information: Dartmoor Factsheet', 2004, p. 1 and the highest point in ...
. The Church of St James, the parish church, is at the western edge of the village, and is a Grade I
listed building In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, Hi ...
. With 13th-century origins, but mostly dating from the 15th century, it has
wagon roof A barrel vault, also known as a tunnel vault, wagon vault or wagonhead vault, is an architectural element formed by the extrusion of a single curve (or pair of curves, in the case of a pointed barrel vault) along a given distance. The curves are ...
s in its
nave The nave () is the central part of a church, stretching from the (normally western) main entrance or rear wall, to the transepts, or in a church without transepts, to the chancel. When a church contains side aisles, as in a basilica-type ...
and north
aisle An aisle is a linear space for walking with rows of non-walking spaces on both sides. Aisles with seating on both sides can be seen in airplanes, in buildings such as churches, cathedrals, synagogues, meeting halls, parliaments, courtrooms, ...
. A
recumbent effigy A tomb effigy ( French: ''gisant'' ("lying")) is a sculpted effigy of a deceased person usually shown lying recumbent on a rectangular slab, presented in full ceremonial dress or wrapped in a shroud, and shown either dying or shortly after deat ...
of a knight with a plain shield, lying under an arch has been dated to and is believed to be of a squire of Iddesleigh, a member of the locally-notable Sully family. The church was partly rebuilt in 1720 with further work in the early 19th century, followed by restoration by Charles S. Adye in 1878–9. The listed village pub, the "Duke of York", is made of cob and thatch, and is slightly hidden from the main road being along a side street behind some terraced cottages. Its facade was used in the
BBC The British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) is a British public service broadcaster headquartered at Broadcasting House in London, England. Originally established in 1922 as the British Broadcasting Company, it evolved into its current sta ...
television series '' Down to Earth'', broadcast in 2000. It was in this pub that
Michael Morpurgo Sir Michael Andrew Bridge Morpurgo ('' né'' Bridge; 5 October 1943) is an English book author, poet, playwright, and librettist who is known best for children's novels such as '' War Horse'' (1982). His work is noted for its "magical storytelli ...
says he talked to an old soldier with first-hand knowledge of the use of horses in the First World War which became the basis for his 1982 novel ''
War Horse The first evidence of horses in warfare dates from Eurasia between 4000 and 3000 BC. A Sumerian illustration of warfare from 2500 BC depicts some type of equine pulling wagons. By 1600 BC, improved harness and chariot design ...
''. The village was also used as inspiration for the Morpurgo novel, ''
Private Peaceful ''Private Peaceful'' is a novel for older children by British author Michael Morpurgo first published in 2003. It is about a fictional young soldier called Thomas "Tommo" Peaceful, who is looking back on his life so far and his going to war. ...
''. In July 2021, the
Prince of Wales Prince of Wales (, ; ) is a title traditionally given to the male heir apparent to the History of the English monarchy, English, and later, the British throne. The title originated with the Welsh rulers of Kingdom of Gwynedd, Gwynedd who, from ...
visited the pub, meeting Michael and Clare Morpurgo.


Landmarks

Ash House, a Grade II listed building in the south of the parish, was the seat of the Mallet family from 1530 to 1881. It was later bought by the founders of the
Rare Breeds Survival Trust The Rare Breeds Survival Trust is a conservation (ethic), conservation charity whose purpose is to secure the continued existence and viability of the native farm animal genetic resources (FAnGR) of the United Kingdom. It was founded in 1973 b ...
. There has been a settlement at Barwick, in the south-east corner of the parish, since at least the early 15th century: a document dated 1440 refers to it as ''Berewyke''. There are two listed buildings here. Little Barwick is a late 15th-century building with 17th-century and later alterations—its most notable feature is its medieval full cruck trusses, unusual in Devon. South Barwick Farmhouse dates from the first part of the 17th century. Barwick had a
stud farm A stud farm or stud in animal husbandry is an establishment for selective breeding of livestock. The word "stud (animal), stud" comes from the Old English ''stod'' meaning "herd of horses, place where horses are kept for breeding". Historically, ...
breeding
shire horse The Shire is a breed of draft horse, draught horse originally from England. The Shire has a great capacity for weight-pulling; it was used for agriculture, farm work, to tow barges at a time when the Canals of the United Kingdom, canal system ...
s before World War I. The "Barwick Madam" was noted in the local shire horse stud book. The
Tarka Trail The Tarka Trail is a series of footpaths and cyclepaths (rail trails) around north Devon, England, that follow the route taken by the fictional Tarka the Otter in the book of that name. It covers a total of in a figure-of-eight route, centred ...
, a series of footpaths and cycle routes radiating from
Barnstaple Barnstaple ( or ) is a river-port town and civil parish in the North Devon district of Devon, England. The town lies at the River Taw's lowest crossing point before the Bristol Channel. From the 14th century, it was licensed to export wool from ...
, passes from north to south through the parish, taking in the village.
Ordnance Survey The Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see Artillery, ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of ...
Explorer Map 113 (2009)


Notable people

The Reverend Jack Russell, originator of the eponymous dog breed, was curate at Iddesleigh between 1830 and 1836. In 1885, when Sir
Stafford Northcote Stafford Henry Northcote, 1st Earl of Iddesleigh (27 October 1818 – 12 January 1887), known as Sir Stafford Northcote, 8th Baronet from 1851 to 1885, was a British Conservative politician. He was Chancellor of the Exchequer between 1874 and ...
was raised to the peerage, he took the title of
Earl of Iddesleigh Earl of Iddesleigh ( ), in the County of Devon, is a title in the Peerage of the United Kingdom. It was created in 1885 for the Conservative Party (UK), Conservative politician Stafford Northcote, 1st Earl of Iddesleigh, Sir Stafford Northcote ...
, which was, according to W. G. Hoskins, a curious choice since his main estates were not here. He did, however, own some of the parish. The Scottish-born poet, Seán Rafferty lived in the parish from 1948 until his death in December 1993; he was landlord of the Duke of York pub until 1975. Rafferty was a friend of author
Michael Morpurgo Sir Michael Andrew Bridge Morpurgo ('' né'' Bridge; 5 October 1943) is an English book author, poet, playwright, and librettist who is known best for children's novels such as '' War Horse'' (1982). His work is noted for its "magical storytelli ...
, who has lived in Iddesleigh since the 1970s. In 1976 Morpurgo and his wife, Clare, set up the Farms for City Children charity which is based at Nethercott House in the parish. Poet
Ted Hughes Edward James Hughes (17 August 1930 – 28 October 1998) was an English poet, translator, and children's writer. Critics frequently rank him as one of the best poets of his generation and one of the twentieth century's greatest writers. He wa ...
, who lived nearby, was a close friend and regular visitor to the Morpurgos and became the first president of the charity.


References

{{authority control Villages in Devon Former manors in Devon