Badenoch Castle
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Badenoch (; ) is a district of the
Scottish Highlands The Highlands (; , ) is a historical region of Scotland. Culturally, the Highlands and the Scottish Lowlands, Lowlands diverged from the Late Middle Ages into the modern period, when Scots language, Lowland Scots language replaced Scottish Gae ...
centred on the upper reaches of the
River Spey The River Spey () is a river in the northeast of Scotland. At it is the ninth longest river in the United Kingdom and the third longest and fastest-flowing river in Scotland. It is an important location for the traditions of salmon fishing an ...
, above Strathspey. The name Badenoch means the drowned land, with most of the population living close to the
River Spey The River Spey () is a river in the northeast of Scotland. At it is the ninth longest river in the United Kingdom and the third longest and fastest-flowing river in Scotland. It is an important location for the traditions of salmon fishing an ...
or its tributaries. The area is bounded on the north by the
Monadhliath Mountains The Monadhliath Mountains , or Monadh Liath, are a range of mountains in Scotland. Monadh Liath is Scottish Gaelic, and means "grey mountain range". Running in a northeast to southwest direction, it lies on the western side of Strathspey, to the ...
, on the east by the
Cairngorms The Cairngorms () are a mountain range in the eastern Scottish Highlands, Highlands of Scotland closely associated with the mountain Cairn Gorm. The Cairngorms became part of Scotland's second national parks of Scotland, national park (the Cairn ...
and
Braemar Braemar is a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, around west of Aberdeen in the Highlands. It is the closest significantly-sized settlement to the upper course of the River Dee, sitting at an elevation of . The Gaelic ''Bràigh Mhàrr'' p ...
, on the south by
Atholl Atholl or Athole () is a district in the heart of the Scottish Highlands, bordering (in clockwise order, from north-east) Marr, Gowrie, Perth, Strathearn, Breadalbane, Lochaber, and Badenoch. Historically it was a Pictish kingdom, becoming ...
and the
Grampians The Grampian Mountains () is one of the three major mountain ranges in Scotland, that together occupy about half of Scotland. The other two ranges are the Northwest Highlands and the Southern Uplands. The Grampian range extends northeast to so ...
, and on the west by
Lochaber Lochaber ( ; ) is a name applied to a part of the Scottish Highlands. Historically, it was a provincial lordship consisting of the parishes of Kilmallie and Kilmonivaig. Lochaber once extended from the Northern shore of Loch Leven, a distric ...
. The capital of Badenoch is
Kingussie Kingussie ( ; ) is a small town in the Badenoch and Strathspey ward of the Highland council area of Scotland. Counties of Scotland, Historically in Inverness-shire, it lies beside the A9 road (Great Britain), A9 road, although the old route of ...
, although historically Ruthven was the market town, and later site of the British Army's
Ruthven Barracks Ruthven Barracks (), near Ruthven, Badenoch, Ruthven in Badenoch, Scotland, are the best preserved of the four barracks built in 1719 after the 1715 Jacobitism, Jacobite rising. Set on an old castle mound, the complex comprises two large three-st ...
.


Geography

The somewhat undefined area of Badenoch covers from northeast to southwest and from north to south, comprising . Excepting the strath of the Spey and the great
glen A glen is a valley, typically one that is long and bounded by gently sloped concave sides, unlike a ravine, which is deep and bounded by steep slopes. The word is Goidelic in origin: ''gleann'' in Irish and Scottish Gaelic, ''glion'' in Manx. ...
s, it consists almost entirely of wild mountainous country, many mountains exceeding in height (i.e.,
Munros A Munro (; ) is defined as a mountain in Scotland with a height over , and which is on the Scottish Mountaineering Club (SMC) official list of Munros; there is no explicit topographical prominence requirement. The best known Munro is Ben Nevi ...
), and contains in the deer forests of Alder,
Drumochter The Pass of Drumochter () meaning simply 'high ridge' is the main mountain pass between the northern and southern central Scottish Highlands. The A9 road passes through here, as does the Highland Main Line, the railway between Inverness and ...
, Gaick and Feshie, some of the best deer country in the Highlands. The principal
lochs ''Loch'' ( ) is a word meaning "lake" or " sea inlet" in Scottish and Irish Gaelic, subsequently borrowed into English. In Irish contexts, it often appears in the anglicized form "lough". A small loch is sometimes called a lochan. Lochs which ...
in Badenoch are
Loch Laggan Loch Laggan is a freshwater loch situated approximately west of Dalwhinnie in the Scottish Highlands. The loch has an irregular shape, runs nearly northeast to southwest and is approximately in length. It has an average depth of and is at its ...
,
Loch Insh Loch Insh is a loch in the Scottish Highlands. It is situated in the Cairngorms National Park on the River Spey, in the heart of Badenoch and Strathspey, immediately downstream of the Insh Marshes. It is around south-west of Aviemore and no ...
and
Loch Ericht Loch Ericht () is a freshwater loch on the border between the former Perthshire, now Perth and Kinross and the former Inverness-shire, now Highlands Council areas of Scotland. It has a north-east to south-west orientation. The village of Dalwh ...
. The
River Spey The River Spey () is a river in the northeast of Scotland. At it is the ninth longest river in the United Kingdom and the third longest and fastest-flowing river in Scotland. It is an important location for the traditions of salmon fishing an ...
and its numerous tributaries water the district abundantly. South of Loch Insh, the Spey extends into the
Insh Marshes Insh Marshes are an area of floodplain of the River Spey between Kingussie and Kincraig in Badenoch and Strathspey, Highland, Scotland. The marshes are said to be one of the most important wetlands in Europe. They lie at an altitude of approxim ...
. The Highland railway traverses Badenoch from Dalnaspidal to
Boat of Garten Boat of Garten (; originally: Garten) is a small village and post town in Badenoch and Strathspey, Highland, Scotland. In 1951, the population was less than 400; in 1971, it was almost 500; in 1981, it was almost 700, and the same in 2001. Topon ...
. In modern times Badenoch comprises the parishes of
Alvie Alvie () is a small crofting hamlet, a working Scottish highland estate and civil parish, located on the south shore of Loch Alvie in the Badenoch and Strathspey area of Inverness-shire, within the Scottish council area of Highland. Alvie si ...
, Kingussie and Insh, and Laggan. The former Lordship of Badenoch also included a detached portion in the east, the parish of Kincardine, now part of
Abernethy and Kincardine Abernethy and Kincardine is a civil parish, and former registration district and ecclesiastical parish, in the Highland council area of Scotland. The name is not in use for any modern administrative entity, but remains as the usual description fo ...
parish. As regards the parish of
Duthil Duthil () is a small village, bypassed by the A938 road, at the junction with the road B9007, near Carrbridge in Inverness-shire, Scottish Highlands and is in the Scottish council area of Highland Highlands or uplands are areas of high el ...
and Rothiemurchus, the barony of
Glencarnie Glencarnie was a provincial lordship in Strathspey, Scotland, co-extensive with the parish of Duthil. It was, alongside Badenoch, Lochaber, The Aird, Stratha'an, Abernethy, Strathbogie and Garioch, one of the eight militarised provincial lordsh ...
in Duthil (from Aviemore to Garten) was attached for a time. Rothiemurchus, which lies between Badenoch and its former detached portion, was never a part of Badenoch.MacBain (1890) p. 150 Badenoch is within the
Cairngorms National Park Cairngorms National Park () is a national park in northeast Scotland, established in 2003. It was the second of National parks of Scotland, two national parks established by the Scottish Parliament, after Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National ...
, and is part of the
Badenoch and Strathspey Badenoch and Strathspey was a Districts of Scotland, local government district, created in 1975 as one of eight districts within the Highland (region), Highland region in Scotland. The district was abolished in 1996 when Highland was made a s ...
ward of
Highland Council The Highland Council (' ) is the local authority for Highland, one of the 32 council areas of Scotland. The council is based at the Highland Council Headquarters in Inverness. History The Highland area had been created as an administrative a ...
.


Population

The population of Badenoch at the last census (2011) was as follows:Census of Scotland 2011, Table KS101SC – Usually Resident Population (See “Standard Outputs”, Table KS101SC, Area type Civil Parish 1930), National Records of Scotland, accessed Nov 2017
/ref> The
Picts The Picts were a group of peoples in what is now Scotland north of the Firth of Forth, in the Scotland in the early Middle Ages, Early Middle Ages. Where they lived and details of their culture can be gleaned from early medieval texts and Pic ...
inhabited Badenoch, as shown by the placenames, which include Pictish prefixes such as ''pet''- (Pitowrie, Pitchurn, Pitmean) and ''aber''- (Aberarder), not occurring in Gaelic.MacBain (1890) p. 158 However their
language Language is a structured system of communication that consists of grammar and vocabulary. It is the primary means by which humans convey meaning, both in spoken and signed language, signed forms, and may also be conveyed through writing syste ...
was superseded by Gaelic in the 11th century, and even as late as 1881, 74% of Badenoch was Gaelic-speaking (2,685 out of the population of 3,611).


History

From 1229 to 1313
Clan Comyn Clan Cumming ( ), historically known as Clan Comyn, is a Scottish clan from the central Highlands that played a major role in the history of 13th-century Scotland and in the Wars of Scottish Independence. The Clan Comyn was once the most powerfu ...
held the lordship of Badenoch. Badenoch is also the traditional homeland of the
Clan Chattan Clan Chattan ( or ), also sometimes referred to as "Clan Dhugaill" (Quehele) after its progenitor Dougall-Dall, is a unique confederation of Highland clans. This distinctive allied community comprised at its greatest extent seventeen separate ...
Confederation, particularly Clan MacPherson, whose traditions state that in 1309
Robert the Bruce Robert I (11 July 1274 – 7 June 1329), popularly known as Robert the Bruce (), was King of Scots from 1306 until his death in 1329. Robert led Kingdom of Scotland, Scotland during the First War of Scottish Independence against Kingdom of Eng ...
offered the lands of Badenoch to them if they destroyed the Bruce's enemies, the Clan Comyn. In 1371 King Robert II granted Badenoch to his son
Alexander Stewart, 1st Earl of Buchan Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, called the Wolf of Badenoch (1343 – July 1394), was a Scottish royal prince, the third son of King Robert II of Scotland by his first wife Elizabeth Mure. He was Justiciar of Scotia and held large territories ...
(1343–1405), who became known as the "Wolf of Badenoch". Reverting to the crown, the territory came in 1452 to
Alexander Gordon, 1st Earl of Huntly Alexander Seton, 1st Earl of Huntly (died 15 July 1470), who adopted the family name of Gordon from about 1457, was a powerful 15th-century Scottish magnate. He was knighted in 1439/1440 and was Lord of Badenoch, Gordon, Strathbogie and Cluny. ...
, and still gives the title of "Lord of Badenoch" to the
Marquess of Huntly Marquess of Huntly is a title in the Peerage of Scotland that was created on 17 April 1599 for George Gordon, 6th Earl of Huntly. It is the oldest existing marquessate in Scotland, and the second-oldest in the British Isles; only the English ma ...
. However, in 1829, insupportable debts obliged
George Gordon, 5th Duke of Gordon General George Duncan Gordon, 5th Duke of Gordon, (2 February 1770 – 28 May 1836), styled Marquess of Huntly until 1827, was a Scottish nobleman, soldier and politician and the last of his line. Early life George was born at Edinburgh on 2 ...
to advertise his remaining estates in Badenoch for sale, and by 1834 all of the Gordon lands had been sold.Taylor, David (2022), ''The People Are Not There: The Transformation of Badenoch 1800 - 1863', John Donald, Edinburgh, pp. 38 - 40, 82, 88 - 91, 124 - 125, 145 - 149, 163 - 166, 174 - 186, Historically, the area was subsistence farmed. In the summer, cattle were grazed on high pastures, with people living in
shieling A shieling () is a hut or collection of huts on a seasonal pasture high in the hills, once common in wild or sparsely populated places in Scotland. Usually rectangular with a doorway on the south side and few or no windows, they were often c ...
huts at up to above sea level. An estimated 4500–5000 cattle were in Badenoch in the 1770s. In the mid-1750s, the first flood banks on the River Spey in Badenoch were built at Pitmain, just southwest of the modern day edge of Kingussie. High timber prices during the
Napoleonic Wars {{Infobox military conflict , conflict = Napoleonic Wars , partof = the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars , image = Napoleonic Wars (revision).jpg , caption = Left to right, top to bottom:Battl ...
led to substantial tree felling in Glenmore, Rothiemurchus, Inshriach and Glen Feshie, with many of the logs being floated down the Spey to the coast. Famine struck Badenoch in the early 1770s and 1780s, the later was widespread across Scotland and even Europe. This particularly impacted the peasants of the area and increased the polarisation between rich and poor. Farming tenants suffered hardship again in the years 1836-39 when severe weather resulted in crop failures and substantial losses of livestock. While Badenoch was hit hard by the potato famine of 1847, it escaped the utter devastation experienced in other parts of the Highlands. The 1830s and 1840s saw the creation of deer forests to meet the demand from southern
aristocrats Aristocracy (; ) is a form of government that places power in the hands of a small, privileged ruling class, the aristocrats. Across Europe, the aristocracy exercised immense economic, political, and social influence. In Western Christian co ...
and industrialists for Highland sporting estates. The requirement that deer forests be free of sheep and cattle brought the hill farming economy of these areas to an end, resulting in more people leaving the land. George Macpherson Grant of
Ballindalloch Ballindalloch () is a small village on the River Spey in Scotland. It is known for its Scotch whisky, whisky distilleries and for Ballindalloch Castle. In Ballindalloch itself, there are two distilleries, Cragganmore distillery and Ballindalloc ...
converted the forest of Gaik into a deer forest for Sir Joseph Radcliffe after purchasing it in 1830. In 1836,
Ewen Macpherson of Cluny Ewen MacPherson of Cluny, known as "Cluny Macpherson" (11 February 1706 – 30 January 1764), was the Chief of Clan MacPherson during the Jacobite Rising of 1745. He took part as a leading supporter of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. After the r ...
converted his lands of Benalder and Gallovie ( Ardverikie) into one large deer forest for James Hamilton, Marquis of Abercorn. Macpherson Grant converted his sheep range in the Forest of Feshie into a deer forest in 1839. Georgiana Gordon, Duchess of Bedford had Alexander Mackintosh of Mackintosh convert the east side of Glen Feshie into a deer forest in the late 1840s. Rothiemurchus became a deer forest in 1859. A significant proportion of the population was dependent on seasonal employment outwith the Highlands, but depopulation as a result of large-scale emigration occurred later in Badenoch than in other areas. Poor market prices, harvest failures, farm amalgamations, rent rises and the creation of sheep walks and deer forests led to a steady exedus of people from the 1830s onwards, mainly to Canada and Australia.


Economy

The area has very few industries, and the population is mainly located in Kingussie and in other settlements on or near the Spey.


Notes and references


Bibliography

* * * * * Taylor, David (2022), ''The People Are Not There: The Transformation of Badenoch 1800 - 1863'', John Donald, Edinburgh, * Mackenzie, Mary, & Taylor, David (2024), ''Glen Banchor: A Highland Glen and its People'', Badenoch Heritage, {{Scottish provinces, major Geography of Highland (council area)