Azalea Thorpe
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Azalea Thorpe (10 April 1911 – 29 December 1988) was a
Scottish Scottish usually refers to something of, from, or related to Scotland, including: *Scottish Gaelic, a Celtic Goidelic language of the Indo-European language family native to Scotland *Scottish English *Scottish national identity, the Scottish ide ...
-born American weaver and textile designer. Known for her innovative experimentation with both natural and synthetic materials, Thorpe was a featured instructor and lecturer throughout the United States. She has
weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal ...
s in the permanent collection of the
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (abbreviated V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and named after Queen ...
. An annual award given in her honor is presented by the
Institute of American Indian Arts The Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) is a public tribal land-grant college in Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States. The college focuses on Native American art. It operates the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (MoCNA), which is housed ...
for fiber arts.


Early life

Azalea Stuart Gray was born on 10 April 1911 in
Peebles Peebles () is a town in the Scottish Borders, Scotland. It was historically a royal burgh and the county town of Peeblesshire. According to the United Kingdom census, 2011, 2011 census, the population was 8,376 and the estimated population in ...
, Scotland to Marion R. "May" and Andrew Gray. She immigrated in 1916, with her mother to the United States, joining their father in
Flint, Michigan Flint is the largest city in Genesee County, Michigan, United States, and its county seat. Located along the Flint River (Michigan), Flint River northwest of Detroit, it is a principal city within the Central Michigan, Mid Michigan region. Flin ...
, where he was employed as a machinist in an automobile plant. After the family's arrival, another daughter, Marcia, was born. The girls attended public schools in Flint and at the age of eighteen, Gray was working in the automobile industry. By the mid-1930s, she had married Alfred E. Thorpe, moved to Ohio and in 1937, the couple had their daughter, Sheila. After Thorpe divorced, she moved to Europe, where she traveled extensively and studied French for eighteen months. Returning to the United States, she enrolled in a textile design course at
Cranbrook Academy of Art The Cranbrook Academy of Art, a graduate school for architecture, art, and design, was founded by George Gough Booth and Ellen Scripps Booth in 1932. It is the art school of the Cranbrook Educational Community. Located in Bloomfield Hills, Mi ...
in
Bloomfield Hills Bloomfield Hills is a city in Oakland County in the U.S. state of Michigan. A northern suburb of Detroit on the Woodward Corridor, Bloomfield Hills is located roughly northwest of downtown Detroit, and is surrounded on most sides by Bloomfi ...
, Michigan, studying with Marianne Strengell.


Career

Upon her graduation from Cranbrook, Thorpe began teaching weaving techniques and by 1953, was conducting a speaking tour with exhibits on weaving. After several years of teaching at Cranbrook, she moved to
Deer Isle, Maine Deer Isle is a town in Hancock County, Maine, United States. The population was 2,194 at the 2020 census. Notable landmarks in Deer Isle are the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, Stonington Opera House, and the town's many art galleries. ...
, where she taught at the
Haystack Mountain School of Crafts Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, commonly called "Haystack," is a craft school located at 89 Haystack School Drive on the coast of Deer Isle, Maine. History Haystack was founded in 1950 by a group of craft artists in the Belfast, Maine are ...
before moving to New York City around 1953. In New York, Thorpe opened a design studio in
Manhattan Manhattan ( ) is the most densely populated and geographically smallest of the Boroughs of New York City, five boroughs of New York City. Coextensive with New York County, Manhattan is the County statistics of the United States#Smallest, larg ...
at 10th Avenue and 57th Street, where she experimented with a range of both natural and synthetic fibers. She continued with her own education at the Scottish Woollen Technical College in
Galashiels Galashiels (; , ) is a town in the Scottish Borders with a population of around 12,600. Its name is often colloquially shortened to "Gala". The town is a major commercial centre for the Borders region with extensive history in the textile in ...
, Scotland and taught at the
Fashion Institute of Technology The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) is a public college under the State University of New York, in New York City. It focuses on art, business, design, mass communication, and technology connected to the fashion industry. It was founded in ...
in the 1950s. Thorpe was interested in textile manufacture for both industrial and home use. She designed fabrics for use in coats, drapery, rugs, and wall coverings as well as a special fabric for use with
speakers Speaker most commonly refers to: * Speaker, a person who produces speech * Loudspeaker, a device that produces sound ** Computer speakers Speaker, Speakers, or The Speaker may also refer to: Arts and entertainment * Speaker (song), "Speaker" ( ...
which would not distort the transmission of sound. She participated as a technical advisor, along with Jack Lenor Larsen and
Russel Wright Russel Wright (April 3, 1904 – December 21, 1976) was an American industrial designer. His best-selling ceramic dinnerware was credited with encouraging the general public to enjoy creative modern design at table with his many other ranges of fu ...
, to the
International Cooperation Administration The International Cooperation Administration (ICA) was a United States government agency operating from June 30, 1955, until September 4, 1961, responsible for foreign assistance and 'nonmilitary security' programs. It was the predecessor of the ...
. She was interested in varied
dyeing Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular ...
techniques and conducted in-depth research on new types of materials, such as the natural protein fiber ''Vicara'' and corn fiber to determine its adaptability for both design and manufacture. Her research was conducted as a collaboration with the architect Kent Cooper. Displaying her work at craft fairs and exhibitions, in varied locations like Texas and Florida, she also juried events for the National Conference of American Craftsmen and the annual International Women's Exhibition, among others. In addition to her design work, Thorpe, who was a
jazz Jazz is a music genre that originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans, Louisiana, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Its roots are in blues, ragtime, European harmony, African rhythmic rituals, spirituals, h ...
enthusiast, wrote as a columnist at '' Downbeat Magazine''. Meeting many of the noted musicians in the field, she worked as a personal manager for such artists as the De Paris Brothers, Sidney and Wilbur;
Miles Davis Miles Dewey Davis III (May 26, 1926September 28, 1991) was an American jazz trumpeter, bandleader, and composer. He is among the most influential and acclaimed figures in the history of jazz and 20th century music, 20th-century music. Davis ado ...
; and
Abbey Lincoln Anna Marie Wooldridge (August 6, 1930 – August 14, 2010), known professionally as Abbey Lincoln, was an American jazz vocalist and songwriter. She was a civil rights activist beginning in the 1960s. Lincoln made a career out of delivering dee ...
. She exhibited works at the Brussels World Fair in 1958 and toured Europe with the United States Information Service Exhibit. Her works were featured in major museum collections, such as a 1954 weaving in the permanent holdings of the
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (abbreviated V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.8 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and named after Queen ...
. In 1960, she was part of a New York State Education Department television series ''Adventures in Art'' where she discussed weaving. In 1962, Thorpe moved to Santa Fe, New Mexico and began teaching weaving at the newly founded
Institute of American Indian Arts The Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) is a public tribal land-grant college in Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States. The college focuses on Native American art. It operates the Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (MoCNA), which is housed ...
(IAIA). She served as the chair of the fiber and textile arts department of IAIA, but continued to work on research projects in New York, like a 1964 study of South and Central American textiles. On 11 November 1966, Thorpe married Lloyd Kiva New, a
Cherokee The Cherokee (; , or ) people are one of the Indigenous peoples of the Southeastern Woodlands of the United States. Prior to the 18th century, they were concentrated in their homelands, in towns along river valleys of what is now southwestern ...
fashion designer Fashion design is the Art (skill), art of applied arts, applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction, and natural beauty to clothing and its Fashion accessory, accessories. It is influenced by diverse cultures and different trends and has va ...
. Thorpe left the IAIA in 1966, returning east to conduct seminars and study Southeastern weaving techniques. She published articles on the school and in 1967, co-authored the book ''Elements of Weaving'' with Jack Lenor Larsen and the following year returned as head of the fiber department at IAIA. In 1969, she designed the paraments for the Bethlehem Lutheran Church in
Los Alamos, New Mexico Los Alamos (, meaning ''The Poplars'') is a census-designated place in Los Alamos County, New Mexico, United States, that is recognized as one of the development and creation places of the Nuclear weapon, atomic bomb—the primary objective of ...
. The initial hanging representing the
Trinity The Trinity (, from 'threefold') is the Christian doctrine concerning the nature of God, which defines one God existing in three, , consubstantial divine persons: God the Father, God the Son (Jesus Christ) and God the Holy Spirit, thr ...
was woven in browns, greens and rust hues. Additional hangings in red for
Pentecost Pentecost (also called Whit Sunday, Whitsunday or Whitsun) is a Christianity, Christian holiday which takes place on the 49th day (50th day when inclusive counting is used) after Easter Day, Easter. It commemorates the descent of the Holy Spiri ...
, violet for
Advent Advent is a season observed in most Christian denominations as a time of waiting and preparation for both the celebration of Jesus's birth at Christmas and the return of Christ at the Second Coming. It begins on the fourth Sunday before Chri ...
and
Lent Lent (, 'Fortieth') is the solemn Christianity, Christian religious moveable feast#Lent, observance in the liturgical year in preparation for Easter. It echoes the 40 days Jesus spent fasting in the desert and enduring Temptation of Christ, t ...
, and a third in white for
Christmas Christmas is an annual festival commemorating Nativity of Jesus, the birth of Jesus Christ, observed primarily on December 25 as a Religion, religious and Culture, cultural celebration among billions of people Observance of Christmas by coun ...
and
Easter Easter, also called Pascha ( Aramaic: פַּסְחָא , ''paskha''; Greek: πάσχα, ''páskha'') or Resurrection Sunday, is a Christian festival and cultural holiday commemorating the resurrection of Jesus from the dead, described in t ...
were also commissioned. That same year, she published a review of the exhibit ''Young Americans 1969'', stressing that weaving was able to be both art and craft.


Death and legacy

Thorpe died on 29 December 1988 at her home in Santa Fe, New Mexico, after a lengthy illness with cancer. The Institute of American Indian Arts established the ''Azalea Thorpe New Memorial Award'' in her honor to recognize excellence in fiber arts.


Selected works

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Notes


References


Citations


Bibliography

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * and * * * * * * * * * * * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Thorpe, Azalea 1911 births 1988 deaths People from Peebles American fashion designers American textile designers Weavers from Michigan Institute of American Indian Arts faculty Scottish emigrants to the United States 20th-century American women artists