Arg of Tabriz

The Arg of Tabriz (), and also known as the ''Arg-e Alishah'', the Arch of Alishah, the Arg Citadel, and ''Masjid Ali-Shāh'', is the remnants of a large acropolis fortification (whence the metathetic name or plus ), city wall and mosque, located in downtown Tabriz, in the province of East Azerbaijan, Iran. Its structure has long been visible from far distances in Tabriz, more recently partially obscured by newly-erected buildings.

The structure was initially a compound, containing a great vaulted mosque, adjoining prayer halls and libraries, a vast courtyard containing a huge reflecting pool, and a mausoleum—all surrounded by a containing wall. It was built in 14th century during the Ilkhanate era. The point of pride for the building was that its vaulted ayvan was larger than the famous historic vault of Khosrow/Kisra, the Taq Kisra at Ctesiphon/Mada'in. However, with the sudden death of the governor of the city and with some construction complications in constructing a roofed building without pillar for such a huge complex, the mausoleum structure remained incomplete.

In the 19th century with the rise of tensions between Iran and Russia the structure rapidly turned into the city's fort and additional military installations such as a barracks and cannon foundry were added to the original structure. During the 20th century, the military installations were removed from original construction and the surrounding of the ark turned into a park. In the late 20th century a big mosque was built next to the citadel.

The former mosque was added to the Iran National Heritage List in 1932, administered by the Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts and Tourism Organization of Iran.

History

Ali Shah Mosque

The original construction of the mosque was made between and , during the Ilkhanate era by Ali Shah, the Iranian vizier during the reign of Oljeitu and Abu Sa'id. Organized around four iwans, and oriented towards qibla, the Ali Shah Mosque had a marble paved rectangular '' sahn'', wide by long, that was entered through a '' pishtaq''. The ''mihrab'', visible at the centre of the only remaining qibla wall, has three relieving arches above it; and on either side of the mihrab are two windows, high above ground level. Bounded by large plain brick walls of all four sides, the ''sahn'' contained an octagonal fountain, with four stone lion monuments sprouting water, and surrounding trees. The walls were broken only by the curved corners of the qibla and the rounded bastion behind the ''mihrab'' recess.

The main iwan barrel vault was wide and deep, with a total distance of between the portal and the mihrab. The total height of the vault was over , rising above the high base. During the construction, the main barrel vault collapsed and the construction was stopped afterward. Two minarets also rose from the same high base, rising a further to a total of . Attached to either side of the iwan walls were also a madrasa and a khanqa. Little is known about these two structures, as both have completely collapsed.

An earthquake in 1641 severely damaged and collapsed the monument. Centuries later, between the eruption of the Russo-Persian War, 1804-1813, and the Russo-Persian War (1826-1828), the compound was quickly reconstructed as a military compound. During the reconstruction of the Arg compound, a foundry factory for the manufacturing of cannons for the Iranian Army was built as well as a military headquarters, a barrack for the troops, and a small palace. Samson Makintsev (better known as ''Samson Khan'') a Qajar Iranian general of Russian origin, lived inside the citadel for years together with his wife, the daughter of Prince Aleksandre of Georgia.

Arg of Tabriz, 1673.png, Remnants of the Arg of Tabriz, in Jean Chardin's drawing of Tabriz, 1673.
Remains of the Palace Zobeideh , Tabriz by Eugène Flandin.jpg, Ruins of the Arg, Eugène Flandin 1840.
Arg-Tabriz-USA.jpg, A US flag flies over the US Consulate near the Arg during the Persian Constitutional Revolution.

Shelling of Arg by Russian troops, 1911

During the 1911 Russian invasion of Tabriz, the Russians shelled the Arg in initial attacks. Once they captured the city, they used the Arg as a central command center. During their occupation, because of careless handling, the artillery pieces they used set fire to parts of Arg.

Russian flag on top of Ark, 1911.png, Russian flag over the Arg, during 1911 Russian invasion.
Spread of fire in, 1911.png, Fire in the Arg due to careless handling of artillery pieces by Russian troops.

Destruction during the Pahlavi era

During the Pahlavi era, parts of the Arg, presumed to have been constructed in the 19th century during the Qajar dynasty, were destroyed. In the process much of the old Ilkhanid and Safavid remnants were also unwittingly destroyed, leaving only a tiny section of the back wall containing the ''mihrab'' intact. This destruction was with the aim of leaving behind only the original Arg construction, ridding it of its later additions and constructions. Much of the original building was lost in the process. The southern part of the Arg was turned into a park, the "Mellat Garden" (lit. ''park of the people''), before the 1979 Iranian revolution.

Ərk qalasının planı.jpg, A plan for reconstruction of the Arg's surrounding before the 1979 revolution.
Arg Alishah, Tabriz.jpg, Mellat Garden in, south of the Ark, before the 1979 revolution.

Destruction by revolutionaries, early 1980s

In the early 1980s after the suppression of uprising of supporters of Muslim People's Republic Party against the new establishment of mixing religion and state and neglecting of Azerbaijani minorities, Moslem Malakuti selected Juma of Tabriz as the new Imam. During his tenure in Tabriz, Juma began the destruction of the Arg's Qajar era addendum wall, cultural institutes, and ark theater and replaced them with a new mosque for Friday prayers. Some people believe this destruction of local heritage was a systematic destruction of local Azerbaijani identity.

Recent renovation, 1990s-present

In the 1990s and 2000s, a rehabilitation and renovation project was executed by the Iranian Organization for Cultural Heritages. During this rehabilitation, however, all of the remaining Qajar era development from the Arg citadel were destroyed. At the same period, a new big mosque was built next to the Arg citadel. The superstructure of the new mosque undermines the architecture of the Arg citadel. Despite the regulations of the Iranian Organization for Cultural Heritages and several court hearings, the construction of the new structure was completed.

The construction of the mosque completely destroyed the ancient foundations of the original Arg that existed underground and were going to be used for a reconstruction attempt at the end of the Pahlavi era. Thus, the new Islamic regime eliminated any chance of methodical reconstruction by wiping out the remaining foundations of the Arg. Meanwhile, the main prayer hall of the ancient mosque was turned into a car park, in direct violation of the edict of the Koran which considered a mosque's ground to be sacred and inviolable as long as the traces of it remain. It is visually clear that the new car park was created on the remains of the main prayer hall of the 700-year old grand mosque.

Gallery

Ark of Tabriz 2.jpg, The Arg, the southern view.
Arg1.jpg, The Arg view at night, the southern view.
Ark of Tabriz.jpg, The Arg reconstruction, northern face.
ارگ علیشاه 2.JPG,
ارگ.jpg,
Arg Alishah3.JPG,
Arg Alishah5.JPG,
Arg Alishah6.JPG,

See also

* Islam in Iran
* List of mosques in Iran
* List of Iranian castles
* Iranian architecture

References

Further reading

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External links

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14th-century mosques in Iran
Architecture in Iran
Buildings and structures completed in 1339
Buildings and structures on the Iran National Heritage List
Castles in Iran
Former mosques in Iran
Forts in Iran
Mosque buildings with minarets in Iran
Mosque ruins in Iran
Mosques completed in the 1330s
Mosques in Tabriz
Tourist attractions in Tabriz