An arabber (or a-rabber) is a street vendor (
hawker) selling fruits and vegetables from a colorful,
horse-drawn cart. Once a common sight in
American East Coast cities, only a handful of arabbers still walk the streets of
Baltimore
Baltimore is the most populous city in the U.S. state of Maryland. With a population of 585,708 at the 2020 census and estimated at 568,271 in 2024, it is the 30th-most populous U.S. city. The Baltimore metropolitan area is the 20th-large ...
. They rely on
street cries
A street is a public thoroughfare in a city, town or village, typically lined with buildings on one or both sides. Streets often include pavements (sidewalks), pedestrian crossings, and sometimes amenities like streetlights or benches. A stre ...
to attract the attention of their customers.
Arabbing
The term ''arabber'' is believed to derive from the 19th century slang term "
street Arabs". Arabbing began in the early 19th-century when access to ships and stables made it an accessible form of
entrepreneurship
Entrepreneurship is the creation or extraction of economic value in ways that generally entail beyond the minimal amount of risk (assumed by a traditional business), and potentially involving values besides simply economic ones.
An entrepreneu ...
.
African American
African Americans, also known as Black Americans and formerly also called Afro-Americans, are an Race and ethnicity in the United States, American racial and ethnic group that consists of Americans who have total or partial ancestry from an ...
men entered the trade following the
Civil War
A civil war is a war between organized groups within the same Sovereign state, state (or country). The aim of one side may be to take control of the country or a region, to achieve independence for a region, or to change government policies.J ...
. Brightly painted and artfully arranged, arabber carts became a common sight on the streets of Baltimore. To alert city dwellers to their arrival, arabbers developed distinctive calls:
Holler, holler, holler, till my throat get sore.
If it wasn't for the pretty girls, I wouldn't have to holler no more.
I say, Watermelon! Watermelon!
Got 'em red to the rind, lady.
During
World War II
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
, factory jobs opened to white laborers, leaving arabbing an almost entirely African-American vocation. By then, arabbing was already in decline, threatened by the expansion of
supermarket
A supermarket is a self-service Retail#Types of outlets, shop offering a wide variety of food, Drink, beverages and Household goods, household products, organized into sections. Strictly speaking, a supermarket is larger and has a wider selecti ...
s and the disappearance of public stables. In the later 20th century, arabbers faced additional challenges from city
zoning
In urban planning, zoning is a method in which a municipality or other tier of government divides land into land-use "zones", each of which has a set of regulations for new development that differs from other zones. Zones may be defined for ...
and vending regulations, and from
animal rights
Animal rights is the philosophy according to which many or all Animal consciousness, sentient animals have Moral patienthood, moral worth independent of their Utilitarianism, utility to humans, and that their most basic interests—such as ...
advocates concerned about the health and welfare of the horses.
In 1994, the Arabber Preservation Society was founded to help bring Baltimore's Retreat Street stable, which had been condemned, up to city building codes. The society continues to renovate and promote the preservation of the stables serving the remaining arabbers, who number fewer than a dozen. Besides providing a nostalgic glimpse of the past, arabbers still serve a practical purpose, bringing fresh produce and other goods to urban neighborhoods that are
underserved by grocery stores.
Because arabbers generally do not have complete horse-care knowledge, they have formed a working connection with Pennsylvania
Old Order Mennonite
Old Order Mennonites (Pennsylvania Dutch language, Pennsylvania German: ) form a branch of the Mennonite tradition. Old Order Movement, Old Order are those Mennonite groups of Swiss people, Swiss German and south Germans, German heritage who prac ...
s. The latter, with their rural, horse-and-carriage life-style provide the arabbers with know-how and opportunities to purchase horses.
[McFadden, David, "2 old clans hitch horses together," ''Chicago Tribune'', September 9, 2018, Section 1, p. 32.]
In popular culture
* The documentary ''We Are Arabbers'' (2004), by filmmakers Scott Kecken and
Joy Lusco Kecken, profiles contemporary arabbers.
* Season 1 of the television series ''
Homicide: Life on the Street'', set in Baltimore, features a plotline about an arabber suspected of murdering a little girl. (The series is based on a book by
David Simon, who also created ''
The Wire
''The Wire'' is an American Crime fiction, crime Drama (film and television), drama television series created and primarily written by the American author and former police reporter David Simon for the cable network HBO. The series premiered o ...
''.)
* Arabbers appear in seasons 1, 4, and 5 of the television series ''
The Wire
''The Wire'' is an American Crime fiction, crime Drama (film and television), drama television series created and primarily written by the American author and former police reporter David Simon for the cable network HBO. The series premiered o ...
'', also set in Baltimore, partly written by the documentary filmmaker Joy Lusco Kecken, who also wrote for ''Homicide: Life on the Street''.
* On the May 5, 2009 episode of the television show ''
Ace of Cakes'', reference was made to an "arabber" carrying a customer around Baltimore in a coffin, as part of a
living funeral.
See also
*
Costermonger
A costermonger, coster, or costard is a street seller of fruit and vegetables in British towns. The term is derived from the words ''Costard (apple), costard'' (a medieval variety of apple) and ''monger'' (seller), and later came to be used to des ...
, a street seller of fruits and vegetables
*
Greengrocer
A greengrocer is a person who owns or operates a shop selling primarily produce, fruit and vegetables. The term may also be used to refer to a shop selling primarily produce. It is used predominantly in the United Kingdom and Australia.
In the ...
, a shop-based seller of fruits and vegetables
*
Hawker (trade)
A hawker is a vendor of merchandise that can be easily transported; the term is roughly synonymous with costermonger or peddler. In most places where the term is used, a hawker sells inexpensive goods, handicrafts, or food items. Whether stationa ...
, a street vendor
*
Peddler
A peddler (American English) or pedlar (British English) is a door-to-door and/or travelling vendor of good (economics), goods. In 19th-century United States the word "drummer" was often used to refer to a peddler or traveling salesman; as exem ...
, a travelling seller of goods
References
Further reading
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External links
*
{{Retail
Street vendors
African-American history in Baltimore
Culture of Baltimore
Food retailers of the United States
Food services occupations
Mennonitism in Maryland
Sales occupations
Working-class culture in Maryland