Ara Gallant (1932–1990) was an American
hairstylist
A hairdresser is a person whose occupation is to cut or style hair in order to change or maintain a person's image. This is achieved using a combination of hair coloring, haircutting, and hair texturing techniques. A Hairdresser may also be ref ...
who was noted for perfecting the "flying hair" technique while working for ''
Vogue
Vogue may refer to:
Business
* ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine
** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine
** ''Vogue China'', ...
'' in the 1960s. He later became a
fashion photographer
Fashion photography is a genre of photography which is devoted to displaying clothing and other fashion items, sometimes haute couture. It typically consists of a fashion photographer taking a picture of a dressed model (person), model in a photo ...
.
Early life
Gallant was born Ira Gallantz in
the Bronx
The Bronx () is a borough of New York City, coextensive with Bronx County, in the state of New York. It is south of Westchester County; north and east of the New York City borough of Manhattan, across the Harlem River; and north of the New ...
,
New York
New York most commonly refers to:
* New York City, the most populous city in the United States, located in the state of New York
* New York (state), a state in the northeastern United States
New York may also refer to:
Film and television
* '' ...
into a
Russian Jewish
The history of the Jews in Russia and areas historically connected with it goes back at least 1,500 years. Jews in Russia have historically constituted a large religious and ethnic diaspora; the Russian Empire at one time hosted the largest pop ...
family.
He had a brother who was murdered in the 1980s.
Gallant, who was openly gay,
eventually began styling hair. He later admitted "...I hated it
air styling But I was good at it. . . . I had always thought to be talented at something, you had to like it.”
Gallant began his career at
Bergdorf Goodman
Bergdorf Goodman Inc. is a luxury department store based on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan, New York. The company was founded in 1899 by Herman Bergdorf and was later owned and managed by Edwin Goodman, and later his son, Andrew Goodman.
...
as a hairstylist, and eventually became one of
New York City
New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the most densely populated major city in the U ...
's top colorists. He later changed his name to "Ara Gallant" because he felt it sounded "more exotic".
Career
In the 1960s, Gallant started working for ''
Vogue
Vogue may refer to:
Business
* ''Vogue'' (magazine), a US fashion magazine
** British ''Vogue'', a British fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Arabia'', an Arab fashion magazine
** ''Vogue Australia'', an Australian fashion magazine
** ''Vogue China'', ...
'' as a hairstylist. Gallant was the first hairstylist to be paid to solely style hair by a magazine.
He worked with many notable photographers including
Richard Avedon
Richard Avedon (May 15, 1923 – October 1, 2004) was an American fashion and portrait photographer. He worked for '' Harper's Bazaar'', '' Vogue'' and ''Elle'' specializing in capturing movement in still pictures of fashion, theater and da ...
(with whom he frequently collaborated earning the pair the nickname "Aradon") and
Irving Penn
Irving Penn (June 16, 1917October 7, 2009) was an American photographer known for his fashion photography, portraits, and still lifes. Penn's career included work at '' Vogue'' magazine, and independent advertising work for clients including I ...
.
He also worked with many supermodels of that era including
Twiggy
Dame Lesley Lawson (''née'' Hornby; born 19 September 1949) is an English model, actress, and singer, widely known by the nickname Twiggy. She was a British cultural icon and a prominent teenaged model during the swinging '60s in London.
...
,
Jean Shrimpton
Jean Rosemary Shrimpton (born 7 November 1942) is an English model and actress. She was an icon of Swinging London and is considered to be one of the world's first supermodels.
She appeared on numerous magazine covers including '' Vogue,'' '' H ...
,
Veruschka
Vera Lehndorff (German: Vera Anna Gottliebe Gräfin von Lehndorff; born 14 May 1939), known professionally as Veruschka, is a German aristocrat, model, actress and artist. She is considered the "first German supermodel.“
Early life
von Lehn ...
,
Margaux Hemingway
Margaux Louise Hemingway (born Margot Louise Hemingway; February 16, 1954 – July 1, 1996) was an American fashion model and actress. She gained success as a supermodel in the mid-1970s, appearing on the covers of magazines including ''Cosmopo ...
and
Penelope Tree
Penelope Tree (born 2 December 1949) is an English fashion model who rose to prominence during the swinging sixties in London.
Family
Penelope Tree is the only child of Ronald, a British journalist, investor and Conservative MP, and Marietta Peab ...
. One of his notable collaborations with Avedon is a 1968 portrait of Twiggy with "flying hair", a visual gimmick mastered by Gallant.
Gallant's work was eventually featured on twenty-six covers of ''Vogue''. Throughout his career, he worked with many celebrities including
Elizabeth Taylor
Dame Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor (February 27, 1932 – March 23, 2011) was a British-American actress. She began her career as a child actress in the early 1940s and was one of the most popular stars of classical Hollywood cinema in the 1950s. ...
,
Warren Beatty
Henry Warren Beatty ( né Beaty; born March 30, 1937) is an American actor and filmmaker, whose career spans over six decades. He was nominated for 15 Academy Awards, including four for Best Actor, four for Best Picture, two for Best Director ...
,
Marisa Berenson
Vittoria Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson (born February 15, 1947) is an American actress and model. She appeared on the front covers of '' Vogue'' and ''Time'', and won the National Board of Review Award for Best Supporting Actress for her role as ...
,
Iman
Iman, Imann, Imaan, Eman, Emaan, or Imman may refer to:
Places
* Iman, Iran, a village in Kalashi District, Kermanshah Province
* The Iman River, the former name of the Bolshaya Ussurka River, a tributary of the Ussuri River in Russia's Primors ...
,
Mick Jagger
Sir Michael Philip Jagger (born 26 July 1943) is an English singer and songwriter who has achieved international fame as the lead vocalist and one of the founder members of the rock band the Rolling Stones. His ongoing songwriting partnershi ...
,
Cher
Cher (; born Cherilyn Sarkisian; May 20, 1946) is an American singer, actress and television personality. Often referred to by the media as the "Goddess of Pop", she has been described as embodying female autonomy in a male-dominated industr ...
,
Sophia Loren
Sofia Costanza Brigida Villani Scicolone (; born 20 September 1934), known professionally as Sophia Loren ( , ), is an Italian actress. She was named by the American Film Institute as one of the greatest female stars of Classical Hollywood ci ...
,
Anjelica Huston
Anjelica Huston ( ; born July 8, 1951) is an American actress and director. Known for often portraying eccentric and distinctive characters, she has received multiple accolades, including an Academy Award and a Golden Globe Award, as well as no ...
and
Drew Barrymore
Drew Blythe Barrymore (born February 22, 1975) is an American actress, director, producer, talk show host and author. A member of the Barrymore family of actors, she is the recipient of several accolades, including a Golden Globe Award and a ...
. He also worked for many magazines including ''Vogue'', ''
Interview
An interview is a structured conversation where one participant asks questions, and the other provides answers.Merriam Webster DictionaryInterview Dictionary definition, Retrieved February 16, 2016 In common parlance, the word "interview" ...
'', ''
Playboy
''Playboy'' is an American men's lifestyle and entertainment magazine, formerly in print and currently online. It was founded in Chicago in 1953, by Hugh Hefner and his associates, and funded in part by a $1,000 loan from Hefner's mother.
K ...
'' and ''
Rolling Stone
''Rolling Stone'' is an American monthly magazine that focuses on music, politics, and popular culture. It was founded in San Francisco, California, in 1967 by Jann Wenner, and the music critic Ralph J. Gleason. It was first known for its co ...
''.
In the 1970s, Gallant became a photographer. His main
muse
In ancient Greek religion and mythology, the Muses ( grc, Μοῦσαι, Moûsai, el, Μούσες, Múses) are the inspirational goddesses of literature, science, and the arts. They were considered the source of the knowledge embodied in the ...
was the
Dutch
Dutch commonly refers to:
* Something of, from, or related to the Netherlands
* Dutch people ()
* Dutch language ()
Dutch may also refer to:
Places
* Dutch, West Virginia, a community in the United States
* Pennsylvania Dutch Country
People E ...
model,
Apollonia van Ravenstein
Apollonia van Ravenstein (born August 12, 1954) is a Dutch retired model and actress. She attained success in the 1970s as a fashion model and appeared on the cover of various ''Vogue'' magazines. As an actress, she had roles in the films ''Seraph ...
. In the late 1970s, Gallant succeeded Sari Marks as Staff Photographer for the fashion magazine ''Ambiance''. He also worked with fashion designer
Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane may refer to:
People
* Diane (given name)
Film
* ''Diane'' (1929 film), a German silent film
* ''Diane'' (1956 film), a historical drama film starring Lana Turner
* ''Diane'' (2017 film), a mystery film directed by Michael Mongillo
* '' ...
. During this period, Gallant became a fixture in the nightclub scene and frequented
Studio 54
Studio 54 is a Broadway theater and a former disco nightclub at 254 West 54th Street in the Midtown Manhattan neighborhood of New York City. Operated by the Roundabout Theatre Company, Studio 54 has 1,006 seats on two levels. The theater ...
. His personal style became as well known as his hair styling and photographic work. Gallant wore only black from head to toe, sported chiseled sideburns and frequently lined his eyes with
kohl
Kohl may refer to:
*Kohl (cosmetics), an ancient eye cosmetic
*Kohl (surname), including a list of people with the surname
*Kohl's, an American department store retail chain
* KOHL, a radio station in Fremont, California, United States
*Kohl Chil ...
. He also wore high heeled cowboy boots and a Japanese schoolboys' hat which was covered with gold charms. Model
Lauren Hutton
Lauren Hutton (born Mary Laurence Hutton; November 17, 1943) is an American model and actress. Born and raised in the southern United States, Hutton relocated to New York City in her early adulthood to begin a modeling career. Though she was ini ...
later said of Gallant, "He was the first leather
queen
Queen or QUEEN may refer to:
Monarchy
* Queen regnant, a female monarch of a Kingdom
** List of queens regnant
* Queen consort, the wife of a reigning king
* Queen dowager, the widow of a king
* Queen mother, a queen dowager who is the mother ...
in New York City or any place in the world that I had ever seen and I had never seen anyone as unusual as him."
Gallant regularly held dinner parties at his
West End Avenue
West or Occident is one of the four cardinal directions or points of the compass. It is the opposite direction from east and is the direction in which the Sun sets on the Earth.
Etymology
The word "west" is a Germanic word passed into some R ...
apartment attended by his celebrity friends including
Anjelica Huston
Anjelica Huston ( ; born July 8, 1951) is an American actress and director. Known for often portraying eccentric and distinctive characters, she has received multiple accolades, including an Academy Award and a Golden Globe Award, as well as no ...
and
Jack Nicholson
John Joseph Nicholson (born April 22, 1937) is an American retired actor and filmmaker. He is widely regarded as one of the greatest actors of all time. In many of his films, he played rebels against the social structure. He received numerous ...
. Gallant's apartment became well known for its unusual and modern decor; all the windows were shuttered, the walls of the living room were painted with black, glossy paint and the white linoleum were made to resemble a river of blood with splashes of red paint.
Gallant's mirrored dining room with glass tables was featured in an issue of ''
House & Garden''.
By the early 1980s, drug use and personal issues had begun to take its toll on Gallant's life and career. He was deeply affected by the murder of his brother and encountered trouble with the
IRS
The Internal Revenue Service (IRS) is the revenue service for the United States federal government, which is responsible for collecting U.S. federal taxes and administering the Internal Revenue Code, the main body of the federal statutory tax ...
for failing to pay income tax. Gallant was forced to sell his West End Avenue apartment. He then decided to move to
Los Angeles
Los Angeles ( ; es, Los Ángeles, link=no , ), often referred to by its initials L.A., is the largest city in the state of California and the second most populous city in the United States after New York City, as well as one of the wor ...
to pursue a career in screenwriting.
Later years and death
After moving to Los Angeles, Gallant had trouble securing work in the film industry. He began abusing
cocaine
Cocaine (from , from , ultimately from Quechua: ''kúka'') is a central nervous system (CNS) stimulant mainly used recreationally for its euphoric effects. It is primarily obtained from the leaves of two Coca species native to South Am ...
and eventually entered rehab. After completing rehab, Gallant relapsed and ran out of money.
While staying in a
Las Vegas
Las Vegas (; Spanish language, Spanish for "The Meadows"), often known simply as Vegas, is the List of United States cities by population, 25th-most populous city in the United States, the most populous city in the U.S. state, state of Neva ...
hotel in 1990, Gallant committed suicide.
In popular culture
In 2010, Italian publisher Damiani Editore released ''Ara Gallant'' edited by David Wills, a photography book featuring photos showcasing Gallant's work as a hairstylist and portraits Gallant took when he worked as a photographer. ''Ara Gallant'' also features interviews with Gallant's friends and associates including
Penelope Tree
Penelope Tree (born 2 December 1949) is an English fashion model who rose to prominence during the swinging sixties in London.
Family
Penelope Tree is the only child of Ronald, a British journalist, investor and Conservative MP, and Marietta Peab ...
,
Steven Meisel
Steven Meisel (born June 5, 1954) is an American fashion photographer, who obtained popularity and critical acclaim with his work in '' Vogue'' and ''Vogue Italia'' as well as his photographs of friend Madonna in her 1992 book, '' Sex''. He i ...
,
Polly Mellen and Anjelica Huston (who also wrote the foreword).
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Gallant, Ara
1932 births
1990 suicides
1990 deaths
American hairdressers
American people of Russian-Jewish descent
American fashion photographers
American gay artists
Photographers from the Bronx
Suicides in Nevada
Photographers from California
20th-century American LGBT people