American Woolen Company
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The American Woolen Company is a designer, manufacturer and distributor of men's and women's
worsted Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead (from Old English ''Wurðestede'', "enclosure place"), a village in the English county of Norfolk. T ...
and woolen fabrics. Based in Stafford Springs, Connecticut, the company operates from the 160-year-old Warren Mills, which it acquired from
Loro Piana Loro Piana S.p.A. is an Italian luxury fashion brand specialized in textile manufacturing and ready-to-wear clothing headquartered in Milan, Italy. Since its start as a merchant of cashmere, vicuña, linen and merino fabrics, Loro Piana expa ...
SpA in June 2014.


History


1899-1950

The American Woolen Company was established in 1899 under the leadership of William M. Wood and his father-in-law
Frederick Ayer Frederick Ayer (December 8, 1822 – March 14, 1918) was an American businessman and the younger brother of patent medicine tycoon James Cook Ayer. Early life Ayer was born on December 8, 1822, in Ledyard, Connecticut, and was the son of F ...
through the consolidation of eight financially troubled
New England New England is a region consisting of six states in the Northeastern United States: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont. It is bordered by the state of New York (state), New York to the west and by the ...
wool Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and other mammals, especially goats, rabbits, and camelids. The term may also refer to inorganic materials, such as mineral wool and glass wool, that have some properties similar to animal w ...
en mills. At the company's height in the 1920s, it owned and operated 60 woolen mills across New England. It is most known for its role in the Lawrence Textile Strike of 1912. The American Woolen Company was the product of the era of
trusts A trust is a legal relationship in which the owner of property, or any transferable right, gives it to another to manage and use solely for the benefit of a designated person. In the English common law, the party who entrusts the property is k ...
.
Overproduction In economics, overproduction, oversupply, excess of supply, or glut refers to excess of supply over demand of products being offered to the market. This leads to lower prices and/or unsold goods along with the possibility of unemployment. T ...
, competition and poor management had brought the
New England New England is a region consisting of six states in the Northeastern United States: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Vermont. It is bordered by the state of New York (state), New York to the west and by the ...
textile industry to its knees by the 1890s. In particular, family trusts, the main shareholders of many of the mills, insisted on receiving high
dividend A dividend is a distribution of profits by a corporation to its shareholders, after which the stock exchange decreases the price of the stock by the dividend to remove volatility. The market has no control over the stock price on open on the ex ...
s instead of making necessary capital improvements. Frederick Ayer, successful Lowell merchant, purchased the Washington Mills in
Lawrence, Massachusetts Lawrence is a city located in Essex County, Massachusetts, United States, on the Merrimack River. At the 2020 United States census, 2020 census, the city had a population of 89,143. Surrounding communities include Methuen, Massachusetts, Methuen ...
, and hired his son-in-law, William M. Wood to run it. Wood had already successfully turned around a bankrupt mill in Fall River. With Ayer's financial backing, Wood brought together various under-performing mills in the aim of reducing competition and increasing prices. He convinced investors to permit profits to be reinvested into new plants and machinery. In 1901, the company purchased the failing
Burlington Mills The Winooski Falls Mill District is located along the Winooski River in the cities of Winooski and Burlington, Vermont, in the United States of America. It encompasses a major industrial area that developed around two sets of falls on the ...
in
Winooski, Vermont Winooski is a city in Chittenden County, Vermont, United States. Located on the Winooski River, as of the 2020 United States census, 2020 U.S. census the municipal population was 7,997. The city is the most densely populated municipality in nort ...
, and restored their profitability. These mills closed in 1954. In 1905, the American Woolen Company built the largest mill in the world, the Wood Mill in Lawrence, followed by the neighboring Ayer Mill in 1909. The Ayer mill's 22 foot diameter 4-sided clocktower is only a foot smaller than
Big Ben Big Ben is the nickname for the Great Bell of the Great Clock of Westminster, and, by extension, for the clock tower itself, which stands at the north end of the Palace of Westminster in London, England. Originally named the Clock Tower, it ...
and purportedly only second to it in size in the world (among chiming 4-sided clocktowers). Following the 1912 Lawrence Textile Strike, the AWC was forced to increase wages. The company reached its apogee in the 1920s, when it controlled 20% of the country's woolen production. Most of these mill operations had started as 100% water-powered, but added coal-fueled steampower in the late 1800s as demand exceeded what could be provided by water alone. However, even though technology was continually updated, these unionized New England mills were unable to compete with non-unionized Southern mills able to produce staple woolen products, such as blankets, more cheaply. Additionally, fashions changed with the introduction of polyester and rayon, and demand for worsted wool plummeted by the mid-1920s. The two world wars were a boon to the AWC, keeping the company prosperous into 1945. American Woolen Company ranked 51st among United States corporations in the value of
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
military production contracts.


Workers housing

In 1902 the company built Presidential Village, a neighborhood of about 200 rental houses for workers at its mill in Maynard, Massachusetts. All of the homes were auctioned to highest bidders in August 1934. The company was also auctioning housing at other New England mills. In the early 1920s American Woolen Company (re)built Shawsheen Village built on the site of the former Frye Village of
Andover, Massachusetts Andover is a town in Essex County, Massachusetts, United States. It was Settler, settled in 1642 and incorporated in 1646."Andover" in ''Encyclopedia Britannica, The New Encyclopædia Britannica''. Chicago: Encyclopædia Britannica Inc., 15th ed. ...
, to house the company's middle to upper management, near the company headquarters.


1950-present

Following the end of the
Korean War The Korean War (25 June 1950 – 27 July 1953) was an armed conflict on the Korean Peninsula fought between North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea; DPRK) and South Korea (Republic of Korea; ROK) and their allies. North Korea was s ...
, government contracts ended. Virtually
bankrupt Bankruptcy is a legal process through which people or other entities who cannot repay debts to creditors may seek relief from some or all of their debts. In most jurisdictions, bankruptcy is imposed by a court order, often initiated by the de ...
, the American Woolen Co. was purchased by
Textron Textron Inc. is an American industrial Conglomerate (company), conglomerate based in Providence, Rhode Island. Textron's subsidiaries include Arctic Cat, Bell Textron, Kautex, Textron Aviation (which itself includes the Beechcraft and Cessna b ...
and incorporated into its Amerotron division in 1955. In 1966 an
Uxbridge, Massachusetts Uxbridge is a town in Worcester County, Massachusetts, United States, first colonized in 1662 and incorporated in 1727. It was originally part of the town of Mendon, and named for the Earl of Uxbridge. The town is located southwest of Boston an ...
-based, wool blanket contractor purchased the American Woolen Company trademark in order to better support its business activity of the manufacturing and distribution of woolen blankets for the American domestic market. In 1987, American Woolen sold its Uxbridge blanket manufacturing facility, relocated to Miami, Florida, and focused its activity on the importing and wholesaling of woolen blankets targeting relief organizations, municipalities, aid agencies and the general hospitality sector. In 2013 an investment group led by Jacob Harrison Long completed the purchase, carve out and realignment of American Woolen Company's business activity with the intent to focus the company on the design and manufacture of fine American-made
worsted Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead (from Old English ''Wurðestede'', "enclosure place"), a village in the English county of Norfolk. T ...
and
woolen Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast t ...
apparel fabrics. In June 2014, American Woolen purchased the Warren Mills complex from Italian luxury apparel group Loro Piana SpA, which had owned and operated the mill for 26 years. Recognized as being "on par with the best mills in Europe," Stafford Springs, Connecticut based Warren Mills is American Woolen Company's headquarters where the company produces worsted wool for men's suits and cashmere and camel hair for coats. The acquisition was made with the assistance of the Connecticut Department of Economic and Community Development, which provided American Woolen Company with a loan and a grant to help cover the building acquisition costs. The acquisition was made with the intent to "reintroduce luxury worsted and woolen textile manufacturing to the United States."


Original Mills, some founded as early as 1846

American Woolen Company was created by the assimilation of the following mills, March 29, 1899: * Washington Mills, Lawrence, MA * Fitchburg Mills, Fitchburg, MA * Beoli Mills, Fitchburg, MA * Valley Mills,
Providence, RI Providence () is the capital and most populous city of the U.S. state of Rhode Island. The county seat of Providence County, it is one of the oldest cities in New England, founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, a Reformed Baptist theologian and ...
*
National and Providence Worsted Mills The Rising Sun Mill, formerly the National and Providence Worsted Mills, are a historic textile mill complex located at 166 Valley Street in Providence, Rhode Island. The complex consists of thirteen brick and stone structures, ranging in height ...
, Providence, RI * Fulton Mills, Providence, RI * Saranac Mills, Providence, RI * Riverside Worsted Mills, Providence, RI


Later mills

*
Assabet Woolen Mill The Assabet Woolen Mill was originally a textile factory complex founded by Amory Maynard in 1847 near the Assabet River in the northern part of what was then Sudbury, Massachusetts. The area became the Maynard, Massachusetts, Town of Maynard in ...
, Maynard, MA * Anchor-Inman Mills, Harrisville, RI * Anchor-Sheffield Mills, Pascoag, RI * Anderson Mills, Skowhegan, ME * Arms Mills, Skowhegan, ME * Baltic Mills, Enfield, Enfield, NH * Bay State Mills, Lowell, MA * Breaver Brook Mills, Dracut, MA * Beoli Mills, Fitchburg, MA * Bradford Mills, Louisville, KY * Brown Mills, Dover, ME *
Burlington Mills The Winooski Falls Mill District is located along the Winooski River in the cities of Winooski and Burlington, Vermont, in the United States of America. It encompasses a major industrial area that developed around two sets of falls on the ...
, Winooski, VT * Champlain Mills, Winooski, VT * Chase Mills, Webster, MA * Dracut Mills, Dracut, MA * Forest Mills, Bridgton, ME * Foxcroft Mills, Foxcroft, ME * Fulton Mills, Fulton, NY * Globe Mills, Utica, NY * Hartland Mills, Hartland, ME * Hecla Mills, Uxbridge, MA * Indian Spring Mills, Madison, ME * Kennebec Mills, Fairfield, ME * Lebanon Mills, Lebanon, NH * Manton Mills, Manton, RI * Mascoma Mills, Lebanon, NH * Moosup (Lower) Mills, Moosup, CT * Moosup-Glen Falls Mills, Moosup, CT * Naragansett Worsted Mills, Warren, RI * Newport Mills, Newport, ME * Oakland Mills, Maine, Oakland, ME * Ounegan Mills, Old Town, ME * Pioneer Mills, Pittsfield, ME * Prospect Mills, Lawrence, MA * Puritan Mills, Plymouth, MA * Ram's Head Yarn Mills, Lowell, MA * Ray Mills, Franklin, MA * Riverina Mills, Medford, MA * Rochdale Mills, Rochdale, MA * Royalston Mills, South Royalston, MA * Saranac Mills, Blackstone, MA * Sawyer Mills, Dover, NH * Sebasticook Mills, Pittsfield, ME * Vassalboro Mills, Vassalboro, ME * Waverly Mills, Pittsfield, ME * Whitestone Mills, Elmville, CT * Warren Mill, Stafford Springs, CT American Woolen Company mills, by American Woolen Company (Publisher Boston, Mass., American Woolen Company)(1921)


References

*Roddy, Edward. Mills Mansions and Mergers: The Life of William M. Wood. North Andover, Massachusetts: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1982.


Further reading

*


External links


Photo of workers
Lawrence, Mass.
Shawsheen Village Historic DistrictConnecticut Department of Economic and Community Development
* {{DEFAULTSORT:American Woolen Company American companies established in 1899 Companies based in Lawrence, Massachusetts Historic American Engineering Record in Vermont History of Massachusetts Industrial Revolution Defunct textile companies of the United States Winooski, Vermont History of Vermont Textile companies of the United States Woollen industry Textron 1899 establishments in Massachusetts Defunct manufacturing companies based in Massachusetts