Amatriciana

Amatriciana sauce, known in Italian as ''amatriciana'' (''matriciana'' in Romanesco dialect),Ravaro (2005), p. 395. is a sauce made with tomatoes, guanciale (cured pork cheek), ''pecorino romano'' cheese, black pepper, extra virgin olive oil, dry white wine, and salt. Originating in the ''comune'' (municipality) of Amatrice (in the mountainous province of Rieti of the Lazio region), the amatriciana is one of the best known pasta sauces in present-day Roman and Italian cuisine. The Italian government has named it a '' prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale'' (PAT) of Lazio, and ''amatriciana tradizionale'' is registered as a traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG) in the EU and the UK.

Development

Amatriciana derives from a dish called ''pasta alla gricia''. The origin of the word ''gricia'' is unclear. In papal Rome, the ''grici'' were sellers of common edible foods,Ravaro (2005), p. 329. who got this name because many of them came from Valtellina, at that time a possession of the Swiss canton of Grigioni. According to another hypothesis, it is named after the ''frazione'' (hamlet) of Grisciano, in the ''comune'' (municipality) of Accumoli, near Amatrice. The sauce—nowadays named also ''amatriciana bianca''—was, and still is, prepared with guanciale (cured pork cheek) and grated ''pecorino romano''. At some point, a little olive oil was added to the recipe. In the 1960s, amatriciana sauce was still prepared in this way in Amatrice itself.Gosetti (1967), p. 686.

The invention of the first tomato sauces (and the probably earliest date for the introduction of tomato in the ''gricia'', creating amatriciana) dates to the late 18th century. Tomatoes were introduced to Europe through the Columbian Exchange via Spain. The first written record of pasta with tomato sauce can be found in the 1790 cookbook ''L'Apicio Moderno'' by Roman chef Francesco Leonardi.

The amatriciana recipe became increasingly famous in Rome over the 19th and early 20th centuries, due to the centuries-old connection between Rome and Amatrice.The town was originally part of the Abruzzo Ultra Department of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, but was annexed to the Abruzzo region of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861, and was finally incorporated into Lazio as part of the province of Rieti when the latter was created in 1927. The recipe was well received and rapidly went on to become a classic of Roman cuisine, although it originated elsewhere. The name of the dish in the Romanesco dialect eventually became ''matriciana'' due to the apheresis typical of this dialect.

While tomato-less ''gricia'' is still prepared in central Italy, it is the tomato-enriched amatriciana that is better known throughout Italy and elsewhere. While in Amatrice the dish is prepared with spaghetti, bucatini is now most commonly used in Rome. Other types of dry pasta (particularly rigatoni) are also used.

Variants

The recipe is known in several variants depending, among other things, on the availability of ingredients. In Amatrice, use of guanciale and tomato is typical and onion is not favoured, although it is shown in the classical handbooks of Roman cuisine.Boni (1983), p. 44.Carnacina (1975), p. 82. The former mayor of Amatrice, Sergio Pirozzi, went so far as to say, "Garlic in amatriciana, never. And no onion, either, whatever some may say." When the celebrity chef Carlo Cracco stated that an unpeeled clove of garlic could be sautéd with the other ingredients and removed before serving, calling it his "secret ingredient", the municipal government of Amatrice retorted on its official website that "the only ingredients in a true amatriciana sauce are guanciale, pecorino, white wine, San Marzano tomatoes, black pepper and ''peperoncino''". For frying, olive oil is most commonly used, but ''strutto'' (lard) is used as well. For cheese either ''pecorino romano'' or Amatrice's pecorino (from the Sibillini Mountains or Monti della Laga areas) can be used.

See also

* List of sauces

References

Bibliography

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External links

''New York Times'' article on different recipes for sugo all'amatriciana and on guanciale

Official Amatriciana sauce recipe

{{DEFAULTSORT:Amatriciana Sauce
Cuisine of Lazio
Italian sauces
Meat-based sauces
Italian pasta dishes
Pork dishes
Tomato sauces
Traditional Speciality Guaranteed products from Italy
Cheese sauces
Amatrice
Italian meat dishes