Alpine Storms
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Mountain thunderstorms pose significant risks because of their consequences, especially for
mountaineers Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
, hikers and paragliders. Despite monitoring weather conditions to prevent accidents, disasters occurring during such phenomena often remain unpredictable and are the subject of novels or other stories.


Formation

Thunderstorms are formed when air in a layer of the atmosphere is unstable. A parcel of air raised at the base of this layer is then warmer than the environment and rises. In rising, its temperature decreases by adiabatic expansion, and when the relative humidity of water vapor reaches saturation, this forms a convective cloud. To form a storm, this layer must be very large and the temperature at the top of the cloud must be below −20C. Mountains can help trigger
atmospheric convection Atmospheric convection is the vertical transport of heat and moisture in the atmosphere. It occurs when warmer, less dense air rises, while cooler, denser air sinks. This process is driven by parcel-environment instability, meaning that a "par ...
in three ways:. * ''direct lifting'' at the level of free convection in unstable air, lifting with a synoptic wind that arrives w/ a component perpendicular to the slopes. The air is forced up the slope and into convection; * ''thermal forcing'' in an unstable situation where there is weak general circulation and diurnal warming. The mountain breezes then generate anabatic winds which also rise. * ''dynamic forcing'' when air is stable lower down, and circulation is blocked by the mountain, but the air is unstable at higher altitude. In this case general circulation is forced above this blocking layer and can reach the convective layer. In a more general case, several effects may be present and if the synoptic wind is opposed to the anabatic wind, additional convergence occurs at the top of the mountain. It is also possible to create a convergence zone behind the mountain when the synoptic wind can divide and go around it to meet again (ex. Puget Sound Convergence Zone ) that will promote convection. The uprising serves to not only destabilize the air and form convective clouds, but also to enhance its intensity. As the rising air from the bottom of the slopes is hotter and humid than the surrounding air, the ''lifted index'' will be more negative, increasing the vertical extension of the cloud . A simple temperature difference of 2C is enough to greatly aggravate the violence of thunderstorms.


Special phenomena

Mountain storms have particularities because of the proximity of clouds, the importance of electric fields, their rapidity of appearance, their particular danger. Sudden wind lift of a mass of air can radically change the initial conditions within them.


Immediate consequences

Observable phenomena give an idea of the peculiarities of mountain
storms A storm is any disturbed state of the natural environment or the atmosphere of an astronomical body. It may be marked by significant disruptions to normal conditions such as strong wind, tornadoes, hail, thunder and lightning (a thunderstorm) ...
. Mountaineers are the most exposed to these phenomena, in ridges and pass passes. In addition to the common phenomena related to the storm, larger
electric field An electric field (sometimes called E-field) is a field (physics), physical field that surrounds electrically charged particles such as electrons. In classical electromagnetism, the electric field of a single charge (or group of charges) descri ...
s cause unexpected warning signs related to the
ionization Ionization or ionisation is the process by which an atom or a molecule acquires a negative or positive Electric charge, charge by gaining or losing electrons, often in conjunction with other chemical changes. The resulting electrically charged at ...
of the air. French mountaineers say they hear "bees": suddenly, on all surfaces, are small noisy discharges. After this bee-sound, another observation is that the hair stands straight up over the head, and sparks can form between the teeth when one opens one's mouth. These are the results of electrical phenomena, already described in other situations, and known by the name of fire of St. Elmo or corona effect also called crown effect. Climbers, not very mobile, can find themselves trapped in a storm. The metal ice axes of climbing equipment can attract lightning, a great danger in these situations.


Indirect consequences

The force of
thunder Thunder is the sound caused by lightning. Depending upon the distance from and nature of the lightning, it can range from a long, low rumble to a sudden, loud crack. The sudden increase in temperature and hence pressure caused by the lightning pr ...
, lightning,
lightning Lightning is a natural phenomenon consisting of electrostatic discharges occurring through the atmosphere between two electrically charged regions. One or both regions are within the atmosphere, with the second region sometimes occurring on ...
,
rain Rain is a form of precipitation where water drop (liquid), droplets that have condensation, condensed from Water vapor#In Earth's atmosphere, atmospheric water vapor fall under gravity. Rain is a major component of the water cycle and is res ...
,
hail Hail is a form of solid Precipitation (meteorology), precipitation. It is distinct from ice pellets (American English "sleet"), though the two are often confused. It consists of balls or irregular lumps of ice, each of which is called a hailsto ...
, bursts and whirlwinds can cause other dangerous situations. Some natural phenomena are increased tenfold by
altitude Altitude is a distance measurement, usually in the vertical or "up" direction, between a reference datum (geodesy), datum and a point or object. The exact definition and reference datum varies according to the context (e.g., aviation, geometr ...
,. in particular: * torrential floods down slopes at rapid speeds *
landslide Landslides, also known as landslips, rockslips or rockslides, are several forms of mass wasting that may include a wide range of ground movements, such as rockfalls, mudflows, shallow or deep-seated slope failures and debris flows. Landslides ...
s, *
avalanche An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a Grade (slope), slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be triggered spontaneously, by factors such as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, othe ...
s.


Prevention

Weather forecast Weather forecasting or weather prediction is the application of science and technology to predict the conditions of the atmosphere for a given location and time. People have attempted to predict the weather informally for thousands of years an ...
ing is an essential tool for preventing accidents related to mountain storms but does not prevent them. Climbers must know how to respond to a storm in the mountains. In the United States, the
National Weather Service The National Weather Service (NWS) is an Government agency, agency of the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government that is tasked with providing weather forecasts, warnings of hazardous weather, and other weathe ...
provides forecasts for every point in its territory, including the mountainous areas. In other countries, similar services and guidance are provided by the
Meteorological Service of Canada The Meteorological Service of Canada (MSC; ) is a branch of Environment and Climate Change Canada, which primarily provides public meteorological information and weather forecasts and warnings of severe weather and other environmental hazards. ...
, by the UK
Met Office The Met Office, until November 2000 officially the Meteorological Office, is the United Kingdom's national weather and climate service. It is an executive agency and trading fund of the Department for Science, Innovation and Technology and ...
, and by
Météo France Météo may refer to: *Weather in French * Météo-France, the French national meteorological service * MétéoMédia, a 24-hour Canadian French-language cable television specialty channel and web site * Météo Suisse, officially the Federal Offic ...
in France. France also maintains a Safe Mountain Foundation and Keraunos, an observatory for violent storms.


Stories of mountain storms in literature


Novel

*''
Premier de cordée ''First on the Rope'' (French: ''Premier de cordée'') is a 1944 French drama film directed by Louis Daquin and starring Irène Corday, André Le Gall and Lucien Blondeau. It is an adaptation of the 1941 novel of the same title by Roger Frison ...
'' (''First on the Rope'') by Roger Frison-Roche touched on the spectacle of mountain climbing and the experience of high mountain guides in these extreme situations. It was adapted to the cinema in a 1944 film by
Louis Daquin Louis Daquin (20 May 1908 – 2 October 1980) was a French film director, screenwriter and actor. He directed 14 films between 1938 and 1963. He also appeared in 11 films between 1937 and 1979. Selected filmography * ''The Man from Nowhere ...
with
Maurice Baquet Maurice Louis Baquet (26 May 1911 – 8 July 2005) was a French actor and cellist. He was born in Villefranche-sur-Saône and died in Noisy-le-Grand.Edouard Niermans.


Autobiographies

A number of mountaineers in the 20th century wrote autobiographical accounts of being caught in mountain storms. * ''The Conquerors of the useless'' by
Lionel Terray Lionel Terray (25 July 1921 – 19 September 1965) was a French people, French climber who made many first ascents, including on the 1955 French Makalu expedition in the Himalaya (with Jean Couzy on 15 May 1955) and Fitz-Roy, Cerro Fitz Roy in ...
: Surprised during the ascent of Mount Maudit, the author writes "At the beginning of the afternoon, as we approached the summit, the storm burst on us, sparks of sparks were formed above the pompons of our hats and I felt again the panic fear provoked in me by these outbursts of nature. " * The famous British climber
Chris Bonington Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL (born 6 August 1934) is a British mountaineer. His career has included nineteen expeditions to the Himalayas, including four to Mount Everest. Early life and expeditions Bonington's father, ...
said: "I have often bivouacked to wait for the good weather, spent nights in the storm ... In a storm, there is nothing to do but sit, wait for it to pass... ". * ''Montagne pour un homme nu'' (Mountain for a naked man), by
Pierre Mazeaud Pierre Mazeaud (; born 24 August 1929) is a French jurist, politician and alpinist. In February 2004, he was appointed president of the Constitutional Council of France by President of France Jacques Chirac, replacing Yves Guéna, until he ...
. This book reports the tragedy on
Mont Blanc Mont Blanc (, ) is a mountain in the Alps, rising above sea level, located right at the Franco-Italian border. It is the highest mountain in Europe outside the Caucasus Mountains, the second-most prominent mountain in Europe (after Mount E ...
on July 11, 1961, where seven mountaineers were surprised by a violent storm on the pillar of Frêney, near the summit of Mont Blanc. One hundred and ten hours later, a helicopter landed three survivors at
Courmayeur Courmayeur (; ; Valdôtain: ) is a town and ''comune'' in northern Italy, in the autonomous region of Aosta Valley. History The toponym ''Courmayeur'' has been mentioned as ''Curia majori'' (1233–1381), ''Corte Maggiore'' (1620), ''Cormoyeu'' (1 ...
; among them
Walter Bonatti Walter Bonatti (; 22 June 1930 – 13 September 2011) was an Italian people, Italian mountaineer, alpinist, explorer and journalist. He was noted for many climbing achievements, including a Solo climbing, solo climb of a new alpine climbing route ...
and Mazeaud. About the 1961 disaster, Mazeaud wrote: "Sitting on my stirrups, I use my piton, when I hear a striking ring somewhat resembling the phone. My companions, forty meters below, prick up their ears. Soon, I feel pain in my fingers, sparks run on my hammer. The carabiners on my shoulder stick to my fingers (...) A pendulum swing puts me near Pierrot, when a flash of a surprising glow hits him in the face, exactly in the ear where his hearing aid blackens. He falls into my arms, haggard, disgusted, without reaction". He also noted that Pierre Kohlmann was not killed instantly but the shock seemed to make him lose his mind. During the several days that it took to descend, he did not say a word, finally collapsing just before reaching the entrance, the last victim of the storm that killed four mountaineers.


See also

*
Thunderstorm A thunderstorm, also known as an electrical storm or a lightning storm, is a storm characterized by the presence of lightning and its acoustics, acoustic effect on the Earth's atmosphere, known as thunder. Relatively weak thunderstorm ...
*
Severe weather Severe weather is any dangerous meteorological phenomenon with the potential to cause damage, serious social disruption, or loss of human life. These vary depending on the latitude, altitude, topography, and atmospheric conditions. High ...
* Saint Elmo's fire *
Corona discharge A corona discharge is an electrical discharge caused by the ionization of a fluid such as air surrounding a conductor (material), conductor carrying a high voltage. It represents a local region where the air (or other fluid) has undergone ...
*
Avalanche An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a Grade (slope), slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be triggered spontaneously, by factors such as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, othe ...


Notes and references


Bibliography

* *


Further reading

* * * Walter Bonatti, ''Mountains of a life'', Arthaud,
Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 residents in January 2025 in an area of more than , Paris is the List of ci ...
, 1997, 401 p. * Lionel Terray, ''The Conquerors of the Useless'', Paulsen Edition, coll. Guerin, 458 p., Illustrated and enriched with 450 photos and drawings for the most part unpublished {{ISBN, 2911755197 Montane ecology Storms