The Alphubel () is a
mountain
A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually higher t ...
of the Swiss
Pennine Alps
The Pennine Alps (, , , ), sometimes referred to as the Valais Alps (which are just the Northern Swiss part of the Pennine Alps), are a mountain range in the western part of the Alps. They are located in Italy (the Aosta Valley and Piedmont) an ...
, located between the valleys of
Zermatt
Zermatt (, ) is a Municipalities of Switzerland, municipality in the district of Visp (district), Visp in the German language, German-speaking section of the canton of Valais in Switzerland. It has a year-round population of about 5,800 and is cl ...
and
Saas
Software as a service (SaaS ) is a cloud computing service model where the provider offers use of application software to a client and manages all needed physical and software resources. SaaS is usually accessed via a web application. Unlike oth ...
in the canton of
Valais
Valais ( , ; ), more formally, the Canton of Valais or Wallis, is one of the cantons of Switzerland, 26 cantons forming the Switzerland, Swiss Confederation. It is composed of thirteen districts and its capital and largest city is Sion, Switzer ...
. It is part of the Allalin Group, a subgroup of the Mischabel Group, which culminates at the
Dom (). The summit of the Alphubel consists of a large ice-covered plateau, part of the
Fee Glacier on its east side. The west side of the mountain is more rocky and much steeper. It overlooks the
Weingartensee.
The nearest settlements are
Täsch
Täsch is a municipality in the district of Visp in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. It is located about north of Zermatt. The local language is Swiss German.
History
Täsch is first mentioned in 1302 as ''Tech''. In Latin it was known as ...
(north of
Zermatt
Zermatt (, ) is a Municipalities of Switzerland, municipality in the district of Visp (district), Visp in the German language, German-speaking section of the canton of Valais in Switzerland. It has a year-round population of about 5,800 and is cl ...
) and
Saas-Fee
Saas-Fee () is the main village in the Saastal, or the Saas Valley, and is a municipality in the district of Visp in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. The village is situated on a high mountain plateau at 1,800 meters (5,900 feet), surrounded ...
.
Geography
North of the Alphubel is the higher
Täschhorn
The Täschhorn () is a mountain in the Pennine range of the Alps in Switzerland. There are no easy mountaineering routes to its summit, and it is regarded as being among the top ten 4,000-metre mountains in the Alps for difficulty, and "one of t ...
, the southernmost top of the Mischabel, from which it is separated by the saddle of ''Mischabeljoch'' (), while the ridge to the south is less prominent running via the ''Alphubeljoch'' () to the
Feechopf () and
Allalinhorn
The Allalinhorn () is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It lies between Zermatt and Saas-Fee in the canton of Valais, and is part of the Mischabel range, which culminates at the Dom (4,545 m).
It was first climbed by London barrist ...
. While the terrain drops steeply into the Mattertal valley to the west, the east side is flat and, compared to its neighbours, almost smooth. The characteristically flat summit of the Alphubel is mostly covered with
firn
__NOTOC__
Firn (; from Swiss German "last year's", cognate with ''before'') is partially compacted névé, a type of snow that has been left over from past seasons and has been recrystallized into a substance denser than névé. It is ice that ...
and has, in addition to the main summit, a northern top of , which barely rises above the flat summit area.
From the Alphubel a prominent, ice-free, rocky
arête
An arête ( ; ) is a narrow ridge of rock that separates two valleys. It is typically formed when two glaciers erode parallel U-shaped valleys. Arêtes can also form when two glacial cirques erode headwards towards one another, although frequ ...
, the ''Rotgrat'', strikes westwards down to the Täsch Hut (''Täschhütte'', ), while the main, north-south, ridge and an unnamed arête running northeast are largely covered by ice. Due to its considerable height and relatively low gradient of its slopes, there are several
glaciers
A glacier (; or ) is a persistent body of dense ice, a form of rock, that is constantly moving downhill under its own weight. A glacier forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. It acquires ...
in the summit area of the Alphubel: To the northwest and west of the summit is the Weingarten Glacier, which has now disintegrated into three ice masses, reaching down to about in front of which is Lake Weingarten (''Weingartensee''). The entire eastern flank is taken up by the
Fee Glacier, one of the larger glaciers of the region, which extends over several square kilometres and still almost reaches the valley basin near Saas-Fee. The Alphubel Glacier, the smallest glacier on the summit, lies in the south-west.
Climbing history
The
first ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers a ...
of the mountain was by
Leslie Stephen
Sir Leslie Stephen (28 November 1832 – 22 February 1904) was an English author, critic, historian, biographer, mountaineer, and an Ethical Culture, Ethical movement activist. He was also the father of Virginia Woolf and Vanessa Bell and the ...
and
T. W. Hinchliff with guides
Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg (28 March 1828 – 8 December 1914), from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Switzerland, Swiss mountain guide and the first ascent, first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the Golden age of alpinism, golden ...
and Peter Perren on 9 August 1860, starting at
Täsch
Täsch is a municipality in the district of Visp in the canton of Valais in Switzerland. It is located about north of Zermatt. The local language is Swiss German.
History
Täsch is first mentioned in 1302 as ''Tech''. In Latin it was known as ...
and via the south-east ridge and the Alphubeljoch.
In 1863 Emma Winkworth, the daughter of
Thomas Thomasson
Thomas Thomasson (18081876) was a political economist and a campaigner for the repeal of the Corn Laws who was one of Bolton's greatest benefactors.
Life
Thomasson was born at Turton into a Bolton family and was grandson of one of the original ...
, became the first woman to climb the Alphubel.
Routes
The morphology of the Alphubel and its proximity to the Saas-Fee funicular make the Alphubel one of the comparatively easier
four-thousanders
A four-thousander is a mountain summit that is at least 4,000 metres above sea level. The term is popular among European mountaineers and climbers because the highest peaks in Europe fall into this category, and the summits of four-thousanders ar ...
of the
Swiss Alps
The Alps, Alpine region of Switzerland, conventionally referred to as the Swiss Alps, represents a major natural feature of the country and is, along with the Swiss Plateau and the Swiss portion of the Jura Mountains, one of its three main Physica ...
to climb. Nevertheless, all the ascents have the character of a
high mountain tour with all the typical dangers of such a tour.
The normal route leads from ''Berghaus Längflue'' () above Saas-Fee over the flat but crevassed Fee Glacier to the summit. The ascent takes 4-5 hours and is rated PD or WS ("wenig schwierig / a little difficult") on the
Swiss Alpine Club
The Swiss Alpine Club (, , , ) is the largest mountaineering club in Switzerland. It was founded in 1863 in Olten and it is now composed of 110 sections with 174,726 members (2023). These include the Association of British Members of the Swiss ...
's high tour scale.
Another option with Saas-Fee as the base is a high-level tour from
Mittelallalin
The Mittelallalin () is a minor summit below the Allalinhorn situated above Saas Fee. This place is well known for the revolving restaurant which is the highest in the world and a glacier cave.
Access
Mittelallalin can be reached easily by cab ...
(), which can be easily reached via the
Metro Alpin funicular. From there, the ascent, partly over rock, leads via the ''Feejoch'' (),
Feechopf and ''Alphubeljoch'' to the summit (also WS, 4 hrs).
From the west, the best known route leads from Täsch via
Täschalp and the Täschhütte and from there over the Alphubel Glacier via the Alphubeljoch over the main south-south-east running ridge (''Eisnase'') to the summit. This route takes about 5 hours and is also rated WS.
Huts
* Täsch Hut
*
Britannia Hut, via Mittelallalin
* Kin Hut (''Kinhütte'')
* Mischabeljochbiwak, a refuge hut on the eponymous saddle between the Alphubel and Täschhorn
See also
*
List of 4000 metre peaks of the Alps
This list tabulates all of the 82 official mountain summits of or more in height in the Alps, as defined by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA). All are located within France, Italy or Switzerland, and are often refer ...
References
External links
The Alphubel on SummitPostThe Alphubel on Mount Wiki
{{Portal bar, Mountains, Switzerland
Alpine four-thousanders
Mountains of the Alps
Mountains of Valais
Pennine Alps
Mountains of Switzerland
Four-thousanders of Switzerland