Alnage, or aulnage (from
''aune'',
yardage") was the official supervision of the shape and quality of manufactured wool">woo
Woo, or variants, may refer to:
People
* Wu (surname), and several variants and other transliterations
** Wu (surname 伍)
** Wu (surname 武)
** Ng (name): 吳, 伍
* Hu (surname), also pronounced Woo
* Woo (Korean surname)
* Woo (Korean give ...
len cloth.
Origins
The alnage was first ordered in 1196, during the reign of Richard I of England, Richard I, that "woollen cloths, wherever they are made, shall be of the same width, to wit, of two ells within the lists, and of the same goodness in the middle and sides." This ordinance is usually known as the
Assize of Measures or the Assize of Cloth. Article 35 of
Magna Carta
(Medieval Latin for "Great Charter"), sometimes spelled Magna Charta, is a royal charter of rights agreed to by King John of England at Runnymede, near Windsor, on 15 June 1215. First drafted by the Archbishop of Canterbury, Cardin ...
re-enacted the Assize of Cloth, and in the reign of
Edward I
Edward I (17/18 June 1239 – 7 July 1307), also known as Edward Longshanks and the Hammer of the Scots (Latin: Malleus Scotorum), was King of England from 1272 to 1307. Concurrently, he was Lord of Ireland, and from 125 ...
an official called an "alnager" or "aulnager" was appointed to enforce it. His duty was to measure each piece of cloth, and to affix a
stamp to show that it was of the necessary size and quality.
[ This cites:
* W. J. Ashley, ''Economic History''
* W. Cunningham, ''Growth of English Industry and Commerce''] If faulty, the cloth was forfeit to the crown.
[S H Steinberg ed., ''A New Dictionary of British History'' (London 1963) p. 23]
Later developments
As, however, the diversity of the wool and the importation of cloths of various sizes from abroad made it impossible to maintain any specific standard of width, the rules as to size were repealed in 1353. The increased growth of the woolen trade, and the introduction of new and lighter drapery in the reign of
Elizabeth I
Elizabeth I (7 September 153324 March 1603) was List of English monarchs, Queen of England and List of Irish monarchs, Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death in 1603. She was the last and longest reigning monarch of the House of Tudo ...
, compelled a revision of the old standards. A statute was passed in
1665
Events
January–March
* January 5 – The ''Journal des sçavans'' begins publication of the first scientific journal in France.
* February 15 – Molière's comedy '' Dom Juan ou le Festin de pierre'', based on the Spanis ...
creating the office of alnager of the new drapery, and defining the sizes to which cloth should be woven. The object of the statute was to prevent people being deceived by buying spurious woolen cloth, and to provide against fraud and imposition. Owing to the introduction of the alternative standard, a distinction arose between "broadcloth" (
broadwoven cloth of two yards) and "streit" or "strait" (
narrow cloth
"Narrow cloth" (streit, strait, narrow ware articles, narrow ware woven) is cloth of a comparatively narrow width, generally less than a human armspan; precise definitions vary.
Historically, human factors and ergonomics limited the width that c ...
of one yard). The meaning now attached to
broadcloth
Broadcloth is a dense, Plain weave, plain woven textile, cloth, historically made of wool. The defining characteristic of broadcloth is not its finished width but the fact that it was woven much wider (typically 50 to 75% wider than its finish ...
, however, is often merely that of material of specific type. Alnage duties and the office of alnager were abolished in
1699
Events
January–March
* January 5 – A violent earthquake damages the city of Batavia on the Indonesian island of Java, killing at least 28 people.
* January 20 – The Parliament of England (under Tory dominance) limits the size of ...
.
See also
*
Maltolt
Maltolt or "bad tax" (in Norman-French) was the name given to the new taxes on wool in England of 1294–1297. Protests against the maltolt played their part in forcing the confirmation of the charters from the Crown.
Origin
Edward I of England h ...
*
Statute of the Staple
The Ordinance of the Staple was an ordinance issued in the Great Council in October 1353. It aimed to regularise the status of staple ports in England, Wales, and Ireland. In particular, it designated particular ports where specific goods c ...
*
Weights and Measures Acts (UK)
Weights and Measures Acts are acts of the British Parliament determining the regulation of weights and measures. It also refers to similar royal and parliamentary acts of the Kingdoms of England and Scotland and the medieval Welsh states. ...
for quotes of relevant legislation
References
{{EB1911 article with no significant updates
Textiles
History of clothing