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Al-Masmiyah (, also spelled Musmiyeh, Mesmiyeh, Mismiya, Mismia and Musmeih) is a town in southern
Syria Syria, officially the Syrian Arab Republic, is a country in West Asia located in the Eastern Mediterranean and the Levant. It borders the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Turkey to Syria–Turkey border, the north, Iraq to Iraq–Syria border, t ...
, administratively part of the Daraa Governorate, located northeast of Daraa in the al-Sanamayn District. Nearby localities include Jabab and Muthabin to the west, Ghabaghib to the northeast, Jubb al-Safa to the north, Burraq to the northeast, Khalkhalah and al-Surah al-Saghirah to the southeast and Dama to the south.


History

The ancient city of Phaena, judging by the ruin field still visible at Masmiya in the 19th century, had a radius of roughly three miles, making it as large as the ancient walled area of
Damascus Damascus ( , ; ) is the capital and List of largest cities in the Levant region by population, largest city of Syria. It is the oldest capital in the world and, according to some, the fourth Holiest sites in Islam, holiest city in Islam. Kno ...
and larger than the Old City of
Jerusalem Jerusalem is a city in the Southern Levant, on a plateau in the Judaean Mountains between the Mediterranean Sea, Mediterranean and the Dead Sea. It is one of the List of oldest continuously inhabited cities, oldest cities in the world, and ...
(which is of Early Muslim date in its present outline and smaller than some of its earlier iterations).


Roman period

Al-Masmiyah is identified with the Roman-era town of Phaena. Phaena was the capital of the Trachonitis district of Roman Syria, as confirmed by a Greek inscription on the Roman temple which reads " Julius Saturninus to the people of Phaena, capital of Trachon."Porter (1858), p. 503. The ruins of a Roman era house built in the
Batanea Batanaea or Batanea was an area often mentioned between the first century BCE and the fourth century CE. It is often mixed with the biblical Bashan, the part of the Biblical Holy Land, northeast of the Jordan River, as its Latinized form. Bash ...
n architectural style is believed to have possibly served as the home of the Roman governor of Trachonitis. One of the rooms on the ground-level floor was supported by an 18-foot arch and had a
cornice In architecture, a cornice (from the Italian ''cornice'' meaning "ledge") is generally any horizontal decorative Moulding (decorative), moulding that crowns a building or furniture element—for example, the cornice over a door or window, ar ...
-decorated ceiling. The town contains the ruins of a Roman-era pagan temple, called the
Praetorium The Latin term ''praetorium'' (also and ) originally identified the tent of a general within a Roman '' castrum'' (encampment), and derived from the title praetor, which identified a Roman magistrate.Smith, William. Dictionary of Greek and Roma ...
, that was constructed by the commander of the Third Gallic Legion between 160–169 CE during the reign of the Roman emperors Aurelius Antoninus and Lucius Aurelius Verus. In the early 3rd century CE, Phaena was still an important village known as a '' metrocomia''.


Byzantine period

The Praetorium was transformed into a church during the
Byzantine The Byzantine Empire, also known as the Eastern Roman Empire, was the continuation of the Roman Empire centred on Constantinople during late antiquity and the Middle Ages. Having survived the events that caused the fall of the Western Roman E ...
period and the structural plan makes it one of the oldest examples of Byzantine church architecture. During the Byzantine period it became an
episcopal see An episcopal see is the area of a bishop's ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Phrases concerning actions occurring within or outside an episcopal see are indicative of the geographical significance of the term, making it synonymous with ''diocese'' ...
, whose bishops participated in the ecumenical councils of
Ephesus Ephesus (; ; ; may ultimately derive from ) was an Ancient Greece, ancient Greek city on the coast of Ionia, in present-day Selçuk in İzmir Province, Turkey. It was built in the 10th century BC on the site of Apasa, the former Arzawan capital ...
(431) and Chalcedon (451).


Ottoman period


19th century

In 1810, Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt was the first contemporary scholar to visit al-Masmiyah and he was later followed by Bankes and Barry, who sketched a precise plan of the Praetorium, in 1819.Segal (2008), p
110
In 1838, Biblical scholar Eli Smith reported that
Kurd Kurds (), or the Kurdish people, are an Iranian peoples, Iranic ethnic group from West Asia. They are indigenous to Kurdistan, which is a geographic region spanning southeastern Turkey, northwestern Iran, northern Iraq, and northeastern Syri ...
s inhabited the village. Smith; in Robinson and Smith (1841), vol 3, Second appendix, B, p
155
By the late 1860s a few impoverished
Arab Arabs (,  , ; , , ) are an ethnic group mainly inhabiting the Arab world in West Asia and North Africa. A significant Arab diaspora is present in various parts of the world. Arabs have been in the Fertile Crescent for thousands of years ...
families from the Sulut tribe reportedly lived inside the ruins of al-Masmiyah. Apparently, the village was abandoned most of the time, but was occasionally occupied by nomadic Arab families seeking shelter in its ruins. In the 1870s, al-Masmiyah was an uninhabited village.Socin (1876), p
422
However, it was later settled when the Ottoman sultan Abdul Hamid II (1876–1909) acquired al-Masmiyah and six other nearby Hauran villages in the late 19th century as a personal estate. The farmers he employed in the village were afforded security, giving them protection from nomadic raiders. They were also exempt from conscription, protected from monetary collections from local notables and at times were loaned money without interest. These factors resulted in the prosperity of al-Masmiyah and the larger estate. In 1875, before Abdul Hamid's reign, the
Ottoman army The Military of the Ottoman Empire () was the armed forces of the Ottoman Empire. It was founded in 1299 and dissolved in 1922. Army The Military of the Ottoman Empire can be divided in five main periods. The foundation era covers the years ...
took apart the Praetorium for the construction material used to build a nearby army barracks at Burraq. In 1886, al-Masmiyah was briefly occupied by the
Druze The Druze ( ; , ' or ', , '), who Endonym and exonym, call themselves al-Muwaḥḥidūn (), are an Arabs, Arab Eastern esotericism, esoteric Religious denomination, religious group from West Asia who adhere to the Druze faith, an Abrahamic ...
clans of Atrash and Halabi during a quarrel with the Sulut tribe.


20th century

Following the Young Turk Revolution in 1908, the sultan ceded estate to the treasury department of the Damascus government and consequently, the inhabitants, who were both tenants of the government and permanent residents of the villages, had to pay 20–22% of their agricultural products to the authorities. Nonetheless, the conditions of the inhabitants of the government estate were better than the estates of the notables.Issawi (1988), p. 330. In 1915 the population of al-Masmiyah was estimated as 300 Melkites (Greek Catholics) and 20 Sunni Muslims.


Archaeological remains

According to Western traveler Josias Leslie Porter who visited the region in the late 1850s, the ruins of al-Masmiyah "are among the most interesting and beautiful in the Hauran," not least due to its numerous Greek inscriptions.Porter (1858), pp. 502-503. The majority of the ancient city's homes were in rubble, but a number of public buildings were relatively well-preserved. Porter further remarked that except for the Roman temple "there are several other buildings ... but they are not remarkable either for their size or architecture.


Roman temple

The temple was destroyed in 1875 or 76 by the Ottoman army, who used its stones to build a barracks at Burraq. The temple had earlier been photographed by Tancrède Dumas. It still remained the subject of study by scholars in Greco-Roman architecture after its dismantlement. This is a description based on traveler reports predating the 1875 destruction. Along with the Roman temple dedicated to Tyche in nearby
al-Sanamayn Al-Sanamayn (, also spelled Sanamein, Sanamain, Sunamein) is a city in southern Syria, administratively part of the Daraa Governorate and the center of al-Sanamayn District. It is located north of Daraa and south of Damascus. Nearby localities ...
, the so-called "Praetorium" of al-Masmiyah was the only Roman temple in the
Levant The Levant ( ) is the subregion that borders the Eastern Mediterranean, Eastern Mediterranean sea to the west, and forms the core of West Asia and the political term, Middle East, ''Middle East''. In its narrowest sense, which is in use toda ...
that contained niches for statues in the '' cella''. This unique feature in Roman architecture was likely inspired by pre-Roman architecture, particularly the temple of Baal-Shamin in the
Syrian Desert The Syrian Desert ( ''Bādiyat Ash-Shām''), also known as the North Arabian Desert, the Jordanian steppe, or the Badiya, is a region of desert, semi-desert, and steppe, covering about of West Asia, including parts of northern Saudi Arabia, ea ...
town of
Palmyra Palmyra ( ; Palmyrene dialect, Palmyrene: (), romanized: ''Tadmor''; ) is an ancient city in central Syria. It is located in the eastern part of the Levant, and archaeological finds date back to the Neolithic period, and documents first menti ...
or in various Arabian cities. The Praetorium was situated atop a podium in a '' temenos'' surrounded by colonnades. It was relatively small, measuring 24.8 x 16.4 meters. It had a rectangular ground plan with a semi-circular
apse In architecture, an apse (: apses; from Latin , 'arch, vault'; from Ancient Greek , , 'arch'; sometimes written apsis; : apsides) is a semicircular recess covered with a hemispherical Vault (architecture), vault or semi-dome, also known as an ' ...
that projected onto one side of the building opposite of the doorway. Both sides of the doorway contained niches reserved for statues. The interior space consisted of a single room, which was the '' naos'', and measured 15.09 x 13.78 meters.Segal (2008), p
111
The "Praetorium" was formerly topped by a square domed roof, likely a cloister vault, which had already collapsed by the 19th century.Sturgis (1907), p
292
Freshfield (1869), p
56
The roof had been supported by four free-standing columns fixed at the inner angles of cross-vaulted arches,Van Millingen (2010), p
2
which together formed a
Greek cross The Christian cross, with or without a figure of Jesus, Christ included, is the main religious symbol of Christianity. A cross with a figure of Christ affixed to it is termed a crucifix and the figure is often referred to as the ''corpus'' (La ...
.Longfellow (1903), p
238
On the opposite end of each columns stood a half-column, making for a total of four main columns, eight half-columns, and four quarter columns (situated at each corner) inside the ''naos''. The arches sat on lintels that spanned the space between the outer wall and the columns supporting the roof. There were six niches against the walls that were reserved for the placement of statues and in the center of them was the main space, the '' adyton'', used to hold the main statue of the pagan cult. The ''adyton'' was topped by a conch-shaped half-dome. The building had two windows, a rare feature in Classical pagan temples, and a total of three entryways. Of the entryways, there was a principal central doorway that was higher and broader than the two side-doors.Segal (2008), p
117
/ref> The temple ruins contained a partially destroyed portico with six columns. The material used for the building was dry stone. Other than the dome and the portico, the building had been well preserved until the 19th century.


Demographics

According to the Syria Central Bureau of Statistics (CBS), al-Masmiyah had a population of 1,498 in the 2004 census. It is the administrative center of the al-Masmiyah ''
nahiyah A nāḥiyah ( , plural ''nawāḥī'' ), also nahiyeh, nahiya or nahia, is a regional or local type of administrative division that usually consists of a number of villages or sometimes smaller towns. In Tajikistan, it is a second-level divisi ...
'' ("subdistrict") which consists of 16 localities with a collective population of 8,773 in 2004.General Census of Population and Housing 2004
Syria Central Bureau of Statistics (CBS). Daraa Governorate.
As of the early 20th century, its inhabitants were largely Melkite Christians, though there was a small Muslim community as well. In 2004, the village still had a significant Melkite Christian population.


See also

* Hejaz railway: Mismia was one of the first stations built


References


Bibliography

* * * * * * * * * Suggested reconstruction of Mismiyeh temple
Pl. XXVIII
* * *


External links


Map of town
Google Maps
Mesmiye-map; 19M
{{DEFAULTSORT:Masmiyah Towns in Syria Populated places in Al-Sanamayn District Roman towns and cities in Syria Melkite Christian communities in Syria