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250px, Abseiling at an Abalakov thread
The Abalakov thread, also known as a V-thread, A-thread, or 0-thread (zero thread), is an ice protection technique named after its innovator, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a common method of protecting oneself while ice climbing because it is easy to create, does not require the sacrifice of expensive gear, and can be very safe when used properly. An Abalakov thread is often used in multi-pitch ice climbing routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and
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Typically used in ice, but is sometimes used in
The Abalakov Thread
{{DEFAULTSORT:Abalakov Thread Climbing techniques Soviet inventions Mountaineering in the Soviet Union
250px, Abseiling at an Abalakov thread
The Abalakov thread, also known as a V-thread, A-thread, or 0-thread (zero thread), is an ice protection technique named after its innovator, Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. The Abalakov thread is a common method of protecting oneself while ice climbing because it is easy to create, does not require the sacrifice of expensive gear, and can be very safe when used properly. An Abalakov thread is often used in multi-pitch ice climbing routes. Because of its safety and convenience, the Abalakov thread is considered one of the most significant innovations in ice climbing. It significantly expanded the scope of possible routes and 
abseiling
Abseiling ( ; ), also known as rappelling ( ; ), is the controlled descent of a steep slope, such as a rock face, by moving down a rope. When abseiling the person descending controls their own movement down the rope, in contrast to low ...
safety.
Description
An Abalakov thread can be constructed using anice screw
An ice screw is a threaded tubular screw used as a running belay or anchor by climbers on steep ice surface such as steep waterfall ice or alpine ice during ice climbing or crevasse rescue, to hold the climber in the event of a fall, and at bela ...
, of appropriate strength cord or webbing
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, and hook-like Abalakov threading device. Two holes are drilled in the ice, which interconnect at the ends to form a v-like channel in the ice. The cord or webbing
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is then threaded through this hole, and tied with a knot such as a fisherman's knot
The fisherman's knot is a bend (a knot for joining two lines) with a symmetrical structure consisting of two overhand knots, each tied around the standing part of the other. Other names for the fisherman's knot include: angler's knot, English kn ...
, or a water knot. This loop is then used to hang the abseiling rope. Abalakov thread can only be constructed in solid ice (or quality rock). The holes need to be drilled at the correct angle (about 45–50° compared to ice surface), and care must be taken that they interconnect. The surfaces of the holes need to have sufficient distance (about ) between them. If the ice is not strong enough, it is possible to use two Abalakovs to balance the force, although if this is needed, an alternate route is strongly recommended.
A 2009 finding and experiments have shown a vertical rather than horizontal arrangement of the holes to be stronger (12%) (Smith, 2009). This configuration has been termed the A thread.
Though the Abalakov thread is considered to be as strong as any ice screw placement, a backup ice screw is frequently used for the first abseil. This allows for increased safety if mistakes were made in the creation of the Abalakov thread, and allows the strength of the thread to be observed.
Notes
A V-thread and an A-thread are the same thing, but an A-thread often refers to the thread being vertically-oriented (holes are one above the other) and a V-thread is horizontally-oriented (side by side). A 0-thread is sometimes referred to when the rope is threaded through the holes instead of a sacrificial piece of webbing or cord. The advantage is that the climber leaves no trace however, the rope can freeze.Archived aGhostarchive
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Typically used in ice, but is sometimes used in
canyoning
Canyoning (canyoneering in the United States, kloofing in South Africa) is a type of mountaineering that involves travelling in canyons using a variety of techniques that may include other outdoor activities such as walking, scrambling, climbi ...
when traditional bolted anchors have been or will get damaged during the wet season.
See also
*Abseiling
Abseiling ( ; ), also known as rappelling ( ; ), is the controlled descent of a steep slope, such as a rock face, by moving down a rope. When abseiling the person descending controls their own movement down the rope, in contrast to low ...
* Ice climbing
* List of Russian inventions
A ''list'' is any set of items in a row. List or lists may also refer to:
People
* List (surname)
Organizations
* List College, an undergraduate division of the Jewish Theological Seminary of America
* SC Germania List, German rugby unio ...
References
External links
The Abalakov Thread
{{DEFAULTSORT:Abalakov Thread Climbing techniques Soviet inventions Mountaineering in the Soviet Union