
The 2019
IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in
Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of
lead
Lead () is a chemical element; it has Chemical symbol, symbol Pb (from Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a Heavy metal (elements), heavy metal that is density, denser than most common materials. Lead is Mohs scale, soft and Ductility, malleabl ...
,
speed
In kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a non-negative scalar quantity. Intro ...
,
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
, and combined events. The
paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in
Briançon
Briançon (, ) is the sole Subprefectures in France, subprefecture of the Hautes-Alpes Departments of France, department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It is the highest city in France at an a ...
, France. The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the
2020 Summer Olympics
The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...
.
Medal summary
Medalists
Medal table
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the
2020 Summer Olympics
The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...
, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
* , as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule
All times and dates use Japan Standard Time
, or , is the standard time zone in Japan, 9 hours ahead of UTC (UTC+09:00). Japan does not observe daylight saving time, though its introduction has been debated on several occasions. During World War II, the time zone was often referred to a ...
(UTC+9
UTC+09:00 is an identifier for a time offset from UTC of +09:00.
During the Japanese occupations of British Borneo, Burma, Hong Kong, Dutch East Indies, Malaya, Philippines, Singapore, and French Indochina, it was used as a common time with ...
)
Bouldering
Women
Men
Lead
Women
Men
Speed
Women
Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.
Men
Ludovico Fossali
Ludovico Fossali (born 21 May 1997) is an Italian competition speed climber. He competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Men's combined climbing.
Career
Fossali won several medals at the Italian Climbing Championships, including the speed c ...
won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.
Combined
Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.
Women
Men
See also
*
IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships
*
Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics
Competition climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan . Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed ...
References
External links
Official websiteIFSC Youtube Channel with live streams of the events
{{World championships in 2019
IFSC Climbing World Championships
World Climbing Championships
IFSC
IFSC
International sports competitions hosted by Japan