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The 2017
IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three d ...
was held in 15 locations.
Bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
competitions were held in 7 locations,
lead Lead () is a chemical element; it has Chemical symbol, symbol Pb (from Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a Heavy metal (elements), heavy metal that is density, denser than most common materials. Lead is Mohs scale, soft and Ductility, malleabl ...
in 8 locations, and
speed In kinematics, the speed (commonly referred to as ''v'') of an object is the magnitude of the change of its position over time or the magnitude of the change of its position per unit of time; it is thus a non-negative scalar quantity. Intro ...
in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in
Meiringen Meiringen () is a municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Bern in Switzerland. Besides the village of Meiringen, the municipality includes the settlements of Balm, Brünigen, Eisenbolgen, Hausen, Prasti, ...
, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in
Kranj Kranj (, ) is the List of cities and towns in Slovenia, fourth-largest city in Slovenia and the largest urban center of the traditional region of Upper Carniola (northwestern Slovenia) and the Slovene Alps. It is located approximately northwest o ...
, Slovenia. The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon
points A point is a small dot or the sharp tip of something. Point or points may refer to: Mathematics * Point (geometry), an entity that has a location in space or on a plane, but has no extent; more generally, an element of some abstract topologica ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. The winners for bouldering were
Chon Jong-won Chon Jong-won (born February 7, 1996) is a South Korean competition climber, who won the IFSC Climbing World Cup in 2015 and 2017 in the competition bouldering discipline and competed in the 2020 Olympics. Biography In 2012 Chon participat ...
and
Shauna Coxsey Shauna Coxsey (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after ...
, for lead Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret, and for speed Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubert, men and women respectively.


Highlights of the season

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 8 lead competitions of the season. In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in
Chongqing ChongqingPostal Romanization, Previously romanized as Chungking ();. is a direct-administered municipality in Southwestern China. Chongqing is one of the four direct-administered municipalities under the State Council of the People's Republi ...
, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia set a new world record of 7.46 seconds, breaking her previous world record of 7.53 seconds she set at the 2015 Speed World Cup in
Chamonix Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (; ; (no longer in use)), more commonly known simply as Chamonix (), is a communes of France, commune in the departments of France, department in the regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the f ...
. Then the next week, at the World Cup in
Nanjing Nanjing or Nanking is the capital of Jiangsu, a province in East China. The city, which is located in the southwestern corner of the province, has 11 districts, an administrative area of , and a population of 9,423,400. Situated in the Yang ...
,
Reza Alipour Reza Alipour Shenazandifard (, born 29 April 1994) is an Iranian competition speed climber from Qazvin. Career In 2014, in Spain, he registered 5.97 seconds and broke his own Iranian record in speed climbing. The International Federation of S ...
of Iran and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina set new world records on their way to the men's and women's speed titles of 5.48 and 7.38 seconds respectively. The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60sec by Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, while for the women was 7.46sec by Iuliia Kaplina herself just a week before in Chongqing.


Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season, the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. First, climbing time for lead finals was reduced from eight to six minutes. Second, climbing time for bouldering finals was reduced from four minutes plus to four minutes dead. This means climbers can no longer continue their attempt after the four minute mark, even if they're off the mats before the clock runs out, which was the previous rule.


Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season, the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports, which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people, and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made". On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.


Overview


Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points A point is a small dot or the sharp tip of something. Point or points may refer to: Mathematics * Point (geometry), an entity that has a location in space or on a plane, but has no extent; more generally, an element of some abstract topologica ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Men

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.


Women

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.


National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted ''(not counting results in brackets)''. ''Country names as used by the IFSC''


Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points A point is a small dot or the sharp tip of something. Point or points may refer to: Mathematics * Point (geometry), an entity that has a location in space or on a plane, but has no extent; more generally, an element of some abstract topologica ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Men

7 best competition results were counted (''not counting points in brackets'') for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Romain Desgranges won.


Women

7 best competition results were counted (''not counting points in brackets'') for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Janja Garnbret won.


National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (''not counting results in brackets'').
Slovenia Slovenia, officially the Republic of Slovenia, is a country in Central Europe. It borders Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and southeast, and a short (46.6 km) coastline within the Adriati ...
won.


Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon
points A point is a small dot or the sharp tip of something. Point or points may refer to: Mathematics * Point (geometry), an entity that has a location in space or on a plane, but has no extent; more generally, an element of some abstract topologica ...
, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.


Men

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Vladislav Deulin won.


Women

6 best competition results were counted ''(not counting points in brackets)'' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Anouck Jaubert won.


National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted ''(not counting results in brackets)''.
Russian Federation Russia, or the Russian Federation, is a country spanning Eastern Europe and North Asia. It is the list of countries and dependencies by area, largest country in the world, and extends across Time in Russia, eleven time zones, sharing Borders ...
won.


Combined

Maximum number of counting results per discipline: Lead: 7, Boulder: 6, Speed: 6. Not counting points are in brackets.


Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:


Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:


Season podium table


Medal table


References

{{Commons category IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017 in sport climbing