áo Dài

(; , ) is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women. translates as shirt
' is derived from a Middle Chinese word () meaning "padded coat". and means "long".Phan Van Giuong, ''Tuttle Compact Vietnamese Dictionary: Vietnamese–English English–Vietnamese'' (2008), p. 76. "dài ''adj.'' long, lengthy." The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as .

There are inconsistencies in usage of the term . The currently most common usage is for a Francized design by (whose shop was named "Le Mur"), which is expressly a women's close-fitting design whose shirt is two pieces of cloth sewn together and fastened with buttons. A more specific term for this design would be " Le Mur". Other writers, especially those who claim its "traditionality", use as a general category of garments for both men and women, and include older designs such as (five-piece shirt), (four-piece shirt), (loose shirt), (parallel-flap robe), (round-collar robe), (cross-collar robe), (straight-collar robe).

The predecessor of the was derived by the Nguyễn lords in during 18th century. This outfit was derived from the , a five-piece shirt commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The was later made to be form-fitting which was influenced by the French, and other Hanoi artists redesigned the as a modern shirt in the 1920s and 1930s. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women. The for women was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. On and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an (brocade long shirt), a version of the made of very thick fabric and with sewed symbols.

The has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese. However, the men version of or modified are also worn during weddings or formal occasions. The is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries. The can be paired with the or the .

Parts of shirt

*''Tà sau'': back flap
*''Nút bấm thân áo'': hooks used as fasteners and holes
*''Ống tay'': sleeve
*''Đường bên'': inside seam
*''Nút móc kết thúc'': main hook and hole
* ''Tà trước'': front flap
* ''Khuy cổ'': collar button
* ''Cổ áo'': collar
* ''Đường may'': seam
* ''Kích (eo)'': waist

Origin

Switch to trousers (18th century)

For centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top () underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt (''váy''). Aristocrats, on the other hand, favored a cross-collar robe called ''áo giao lĩnh''. When the Ming dynasty occupied Đại Việt during the Fourth Era of Northern Domination in 1407, it forced the women to wear Chinese-style pants. The following Lê dynasty also criticized women for violating Neo-Confucian dress norms, but only enforced the dress code haphazardly, so skirts and halter tops remained the norm. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Vietnam was divided into northern and southern realms, with the Nguyễn lords ruling the south. To distinguish the southern people from the northerners, in 1744, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát of Huế decreed that both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front. The members of the southern court were thus distinguished from the courtiers of the Trịnh Lords in Hanoi, who wore ''áo giao lĩnh'' with long skirts.

According to Lê Quý Đôn's record in the book "Phủ Biên Tạp Lục" (recording most of the important information about the economy and society of Đàng Trong for nearly 200 years), the áo dài (or rather, the forerunner of the áo dài) created by Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát based on Chinese Ming Dynasty costumes, by how to learn the method of making costumes in the book "Sāncái Túhuì" as the standard.

19th century

The '' áo ngũ thân'' (five-piece shirt) had two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides, features preserved in the later áo dài. Compared to a modern áo dài, the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser and much shorter. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern áo dài. Women could wear the shirt with the top few buttons undone, revealing a glimpse of their ''yếm'' underneath.

File:Trần Nhân Tông TLĐSXSCĐ.png, Trần dynasty robes as depicted in a section of a 14th-century scroll.
File:Người Giao Chỉ - Tam tài đồ hội.png, A Vietnamese man on the left is wearing áo viên lĩnh (the predecessor of ''áo dài'') in Sancai Tuhui, early 17th century during the Lê dynasty.
File:Giảng học đồ.png, "Giảng học đồ" (Teaching), 18th century, Hanoi museum of National History. Scholars and students wear ''áo giao lĩnh'' (cross-collar robe) - unlike the buttoned áo dài.
File:Ao ngu than on postcard dated 1904.JPG, Two women wear áo ngũ thân, the predecessor of the áo dài worn in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries depicted on the postcard.
File:Trần Anh Tông TLĐSXSĐ.jpg, Trần Anh Tông wearing a "áo viên lĩnh" and outside a "áo giao lĩnh" in the calligraphy painting ''Trúc Lâm đại sĩ xuất sơn đồ'' (The painting of Trúc Lâm the Great Master),14th century.
File:Nón lá & Áo dài.png, A woman wearing a nón lá with áo dài.
File:Vietnamese girl wearing ao dai 2.jpg, Woman wears an áo dài for Tết.

20th century

Modernization of style

Huế's Đồng Khánh Girls' High School, which opened in 1917, was widely praised for the áo dài uniform worn by its students. The first modernized áo dài appeared at a Paris fashion show in 1921. In 1930, Hanoi artist Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, designed a shirt inspired by the '' áo ngũ thân'' and by Paris fashions. It reached to the floor and fit the curves of the body by using darts and a nipped-in waist. When fabric became inexpensive, the rationale for multiple layers and thick flaps disappeared. Modern textile manufacture allows for wider panels, eliminating the need to sew narrow panels together. The ''áo dài Le Mur'', or "trendy" ao dai, created a sensation when model Nguyễn Thị Hậu wore it for a feature published by the newspaper ''Today'' in January 1935.. For a picture of the ''áo dài Le Mur'', se
''Ao Dai — The Soul of Vietnam''
The style was promoted by the artists of Tự Lực văn đoàn ("Self-Reliant Literary Group") as a national costume for the modern era. The painter Lê Phô introduced several popular styles of ao dai beginning in 1934. Such Westernized garments temporarily disappeared during World War II (1939–45).

In the 1950s, Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) designers tightened the fit of the áo dài to create the version commonly seen today. Trần Kim of Thiết Lập Tailors and Dũng of Dũng Tailors created a shirt with raglan sleeves and a diagonal seam that runs from the collar to the underarm. Madame Nhu, first lady of South Vietnam, popularized a boat neck version beginning in 1958. The áo dài was most popular from 1960 to 1975. A brightly colored ''áo dài hippy'' was introduced in 1968. The ''áo dài mini'', a version designed for practical use and convenience, had slits that extended above the waist and panels that reached only to the knee.

Under communism

The áo dài has always been more common in the South than in the North. The communists, who gained power in the North in 1954 and in the South in 1975, had conflicted feelings about the áo dài. They praised it as a national costume and one was worn to the Paris Peace Conference (1969–73) by Viet Cong negotiator Nguyễn Thị Bình. Yet Westernized versions of the shirt and those associated with "decadent" Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) of the 1960s and early 1970s were condemned. Economic crisis, famine, and war with Cambodia combined to make the 1980s a fashion low point. The áo dài was rarely worn except at weddings and other formal occasions, with the older, looser-fitting style preferred. Overseas Vietnamese, meanwhile, kept tradition alive with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants (''Hoa Hậu Áo Dài''), the most notable one held annually in Long Beach, California.

The áo dài experienced a revival beginning in late 1980s, when state enterprise and schools began adopting the áo dài as a uniform again. In 1989, 16,000 Vietnamese attended a Miss Ao Dai Beauty Contest held in Ho Chi Minh City. When the Miss International Pageant in Tokyo gave its "Best National Costume" award to an áo dài-clad Trương Quỳnh Mai in 1995, ''Thời Trang Trẻ'' (New Fashion Magazine) claimed that Vietnam's "national soul" was "once again honored". An "áo dài craze" followed that lasted for several years and led to wider use of the áo dài as a school uniform.

Present day

No longer deemed politically controversial, áo dài fashion design is supported by the Vietnamese government. It is often called ''áo dài Việt Nam'' to link it to patriotic feelings. Designer Le Si Hoang is a celebrity in Vietnam and his shop in Ho Chi Minh City is the place to visit for those who admire the áo dài. In Hanoi, tourists get fitted with áo dài on Luong Van Can Street. The elegant city of Huế in the central region is known for its áo dài and ''nón lá'' ().

The áo dài is now a standard for weddings, for celebrating Tết and for other formal occasions. It is the required uniform for female teachers (mostly from high school to below) and female students in common high schools in the South; there is no requirement for color or pattern for teachers while students use plain white or with some small patterns like flowers for use as school uniforms. Companies often require their female staff to wear uniforms that include the áo dài, so flight attendants, receptionists, bank female staff, restaurant staff, and hotel workers in Vietnam may be seen wearing it.

The most popular style of áo dài fits tightly around the wearer's upper shirt, emphasizing her bust and curves. Although the shirt covers the entire body, it is thought to be provocative, especially when made of thin fabric. "The áo dài covers everything, but hides nothing", according to one saying. The shirt must be individually fitted and usually requires several weeks for a tailor to complete. Áo dài costs about $200 in the United States and about $40 in Vietnam.

"Symbolically, the áo dài invokes nostalgia and timelessness associated with a gendered image of the homeland for which many Vietnamese people throughout the diaspora yearn," wrote Nhi T. Lieu, an assistant professor at the University of Texas at Austin. The difficulties of working while wearing áo dài link the garment to frailty and innocence, she wrote. Vietnamese writers who favor the use of the áo dài as a school uniform cite the inconvenience of wearing it as an advantage, a way of teaching students feminine behavior such as modesty, caution, and a refined manner.

The áo dài is featured in an array of Asian-themed or related movies. In '' Good Morning, Vietnam'' (1987), Robin Williams's character is wowed by áo dài-clad women when he first arrives in Ho Chi Minh City. The 1992 films '' Indochine'' and '' The Lover'' inspired several international fashion houses to design áo dài collections, including Prada's SS08 collection and a Georgio Armani collection. In the Vietnamese film '' The White Silk Dress'' (2007), an áo dài is the sole legacy that the mother of a poverty-stricken family has to pass on to her daughters. The Hanoi City Complex, a 65-story building now under construction, will have an áo dài-inspired design. Vietnamese designers created áo dài for the contestants in the Miss Universe beauty contest, which was held July 2008 in Nha Trang, Vietnam. The most prominent annual Ao Dai Festival outside of Vietnam is held each year in San Jose, California, a city that is home to a large Vietnamese American community. This event features an international array of designer áo dài under the direction of festival founder, Jenny Do.

In recent years, a shorter, more modern version of the áo dài, known as the ''áo dài cách tân'', is often worn by the younger generation. This modern áo dài has a shorter front and back flap, hitting just below the knees.

Criticism

Áo dài is the traditional attire of Vietnam, considered a symbol of the graceful and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women. However, besides the praises, it is met with criticism from some. One of the most common criticisms of is excessive modernisation. In recent years, the modernised type has become very popular, with a variety of styles, materials, and colors. However, some people believe that excessive modernisation has eroded the "traditional beauty" of . They believe that should keep its traditional style, material, and color, in order to enhance the gentle and elegant beauty of Vietnamese women. Another criticism of is the wearing of in a way that is seen as offensive. In recent years, there have been many cases of celebrities being criticized for wearing "offensive" . They were accused of using to show off their bodies, causing offense to the viewer. In addition, is also criticized as being incompatible with modern life. is a traditional costume designed to be worn on formal occasions and festivals. However, in modern life, many people believe that is not suitable for everyday activities, such as going to school, going to work, going out, etc.

Similar garments

Áo dài is similar to the shalwar kameez and kurta of countries following Indo-Islamic culture such as India, Pakistan as they are both forms of clothing consisting of a long split tunic worn over trousers. The main difference is that the áo dài usually has a row of buttons that cross from the neck down to the hips while the rest of the garments have a row of buttons in the front.

The áo dài is also similar in appearance to the cheongsam, both consisting of a long robe with side splits on both sides of the robe, with one of the main differences typically being the height of the side split.

Gallery

File:Cinq sœurs à Hanoï, 1950s.jpg, Five Hanoi sisters wearing Áo dài, 1950s
File:Áo dài & khăn đóng2.jpg, Saigon old man wearing traditional Áo dài and Khăn vấn, Tết 1963
File:Student ice.jpg, A female student wearing Áo dài
File:Hai thiếu nữ mặc áo dài.jpg, Two woman wearing pink Áo dài
File:Aodai in Purple.JPG, The female students wearing purple Áo dài
File:KOCIS Korea Hanbok-AoDai FashionShow 03 (9766157012).jpg, A woman wearing cyan Áo dài
File:Áo Dài 2014.jpg, A woman wearing violet Áo dài and Nón lá
File:Lady in white ao dai, Hanoi (18538703922).jpg, A young girl wearing white Áo dài and holding Nón lá
File:Áo dài (31387189530).jpg, A woman wearing red Áo dài
File:Áo dài (33645199761).jpg, Two women wearing blue Áo dài
File:Áo dài - 49541606632.jpg, A girl wearing white Áo dài
File:PHA 9815.jpg, A woman wearing yellow Áo dài

See also

* Vietnamese clothing
* Cheongsam
* Kurti top
* Shalwar kameez

Notes

References

Bibliography

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Further reading

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External links

History of the Vietnamese Long Dress


Gia Long Alumni Association of Seattle, 2000

Vietnam: Mini-Skirts & Ao-Dais
A video that shows what the women of Saigon wore in 1968

{{DEFAULTSORT:Ao Dai
Tops (clothing)
History of Asian clothing
Folk costumes
Vietnamese clothing