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Wave Set-up
In fluid dynamics, wave setup is the increase in mean water level due to the presence of breaking waves. Similarly, wave setdown is a wave-induced decrease of the mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is often denoted as wave setup, including both increase and decrease of mean elevation. This setup is primarily present in and near the coastal surf zone. Besides a spatial variation in the (mean) wave setup, also a variation in time may be present – known as surf beat – causing infragravity wave radiation. Wave setup can be mathematically modeled by considering the variation in radiation stress. Radiation stress is the tensor of excess horizontal-momentum fluxes due to the presence of the waves. In and near the coastal surf zone As a progressive wave approaches shore and the water depth decreases, the wave height increases due to wave shoaling. As a result, there is additional wave-induced flux of horizontal momen ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Fluid Dynamics
In physics, physical chemistry and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids – liquids and gases. It has several subdisciplines, including (the study of air and other gases in motion) and (the study of water and other liquids in motion). Fluid dynamics has a wide range of applications, including calculating forces and moment (physics), moments on aircraft, determining the mass flow rate of petroleum through pipeline transport, pipelines, weather forecasting, predicting weather patterns, understanding nebulae in interstellar space, understanding large scale Geophysical fluid dynamics, geophysical flows involving oceans/atmosphere and Nuclear weapon design, modelling fission weapon detonation. Fluid dynamics offers a systematic structure—which underlies these practical disciplines—that embraces empirical and semi-empirical laws derived from flow measurement and used to solve practical problems. The solution to a fl ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Breaking Wave
In fluid dynamics and nautical terminology, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave with enough energy to "break" at its peak, reaching a critical level at which linear energy transforms into wave turbulence energy with a distinct forward curve. At this point, simple physical models that describe wave dynamics often become invalid, particularly those that assume linear behaviour. The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves. In meteorology, atmospheric gravity waves are said to break when the wave produces regions where the potential temperature decreases with height, leading to energy dissipation through convective instability; likewise, Rossby waves are said to break when the po ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Coastal Flooding
Coastal flooding occurs when dry and low-lying land is submerged (flooded) by seawater. The range of a coastal Flood, flooding is a result of the elevation of floodwater that penetrates the inland which is controlled by the topography of the coastal land exposed to flooding. The seawater can flood the land via several different paths: direct flooding, overtopping or breaching of a barrier. Coastal flooding is largely a natural event. Due to the effects of climate change (e.g. sea level rise and an increase in extreme weather events) and an increase in the population living in coastal areas, the damage caused by coastal flood events has intensified and more people are being affected. Coastal plain, Coastal areas are sometimes flooded by unusually high tides, such as spring tides, especially when compounded by high winds and storm surges. This was the cause of the North Sea flood of 1953 which flooded large swathes of the Netherlands and the East coast of England. When humans modif ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Storm Surge
A storm surge, storm flood, tidal surge, or storm tide is a coastal flood or tsunami-like phenomenon of rising water commonly associated with low-pressure weather systems, such as cyclones. It is measured as the rise in water level above the normal tidal level, and does not include waves. The main meteorological factor contributing to a storm surge is high-speed wind pushing water towards the coast over a long fetch. Other factors affecting storm surge severity include the shallowness and orientation of the water body in the storm path, the timing of tides, and the atmospheric pressure drop due to the storm. As extreme weather becomes more intense and the sea level rises due to climate change, storm surges are expected to cause more risk to coastal populations. Communities and governments can adapt by building hard infrastructure, like surge barriers, soft infrastructure, like coastal dunes or mangroves, improving coastal construction practices and building social strat ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Wind Setup
Wind setup, also known as ''wind effect'' or ''storm effect'', refers to the rise in water level in seas, lakes, or other large bodies of water caused by winds pushing the water in a specific direction. As the wind moves across the water’s surface, it applies shear stress to the water, generating a wind-driven current. When this current encounters a shoreline, the water level increases due to the accumulation of water, which creates a hydrostatics, hydrostatic counterforce that balances the shear force applied by the wind. During storms, wind setup forms part of the overall storm surge. For example, in the Netherlands, wind setup during a storm surge can raise water levels by as much as 3 metres above normal tidal levels. In tropical regions, such as the Caribbean Sea, Caribbean, wind setup during cyclones can elevate water levels by up to 5 metres. This phenomenon becomes especially significant when water is funnelled into shallow or narrow areas, leading to higher storm surges ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Wave Run-up
Wave run-up is the height to which Wind wave, waves run up the slope of a revetment, Bank (geography), bank or Levee, dike, regardless of whether the waves are Breaking wave, breaking or not. Conversely, ''wave run-down'' is the height to which waves recede. These heights are always measured vertically (and not along the slope). The wave run-up height, denoted by R_u, , or z, is a very important parameter in coastal engineering as, together with the design highest still water level, it determines the required crest height of a dike or revetment. History The first scientific measurements of wave run-up were carried out by the Hendrik Lorentz, Lorentz Committee in preparation for the works to close off the Zuiderzee. The Committee measured the wave height and wave run-up at various locations in 1920, but established that state of the art methods for measuring waves in the field during storms were inadequate. As a result, scale tests were also undertaken, but these also proved to b ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Chézy Formula
Chézy may refer to: ; People * Antoine de Chézy (1718–1798), French hydraulic engineer * Antoine-Léonard de Chézy Antoine-Léonard de Chézy (15 January 177331 August 1832) was a French orientalist and one of the first European scholars of Sanskrit. Biography He was born at Neuilly. His father, Antoine de Chézy (1718–1798), was an engineer who finall ... (1773–1832), French orientalist * Helmina von Chézy (1783–1856), German journalist, poet and playwright ; Communes in France * Chézy, Allier, in the Allier department * Chézy-en-Orxois, in the Aisne department * Chézy-sur-Marne, in the Aisne department ; Other * Chézy formula, for river flows {{disambig ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Gradient
In vector calculus, the gradient of a scalar-valued differentiable function f of several variables is the vector field (or vector-valued function) \nabla f whose value at a point p gives the direction and the rate of fastest increase. The gradient transforms like a vector under change of basis of the space of variables of f. If the gradient of a function is non-zero at a point p, the direction of the gradient is the direction in which the function increases most quickly from p, and the magnitude of the gradient is the rate of increase in that direction, the greatest absolute directional derivative. Further, a point where the gradient is the zero vector is known as a stationary point. The gradient thus plays a fundamental role in optimization theory, where it is used to minimize a function by gradient descent. In coordinate-free terms, the gradient of a function f(\mathbf) may be defined by: df=\nabla f \cdot d\mathbf where df is the total infinitesimal change in f for a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Diffraction
Diffraction is the deviation of waves from straight-line propagation without any change in their energy due to an obstacle or through an aperture. The diffracting object or aperture effectively becomes a secondary source of the Wave propagation, propagating wave. Diffraction is the same physical effect as Wave interference, interference, but interference is typically applied to superposition of a few waves and the term diffraction is used when many waves are superposed. Italian scientist Francesco Maria Grimaldi coined the word ''diffraction'' and was the first to record accurate observations of the phenomenon in 1660 in science, 1660. In classical physics, the diffraction phenomenon is described by the Huygens–Fresnel principle that treats each point in a propagating wavefront as a collection of individual spherical wavelets. The characteristic pattern is most pronounced when a wave from a Coherence (physics), coherent source (such as a laser) encounters a slit/aperture tha ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
World Scientific
World Scientific Publishing is an academic publisher of scientific, technical, and medical books and journals headquartered in Singapore. The company was founded in 1981. It publishes about 600 books annually, with more than 170 journals in various fields. In 1995, World Scientific co-founded the London-based Imperial College Press together with the Imperial College of Science, Technology and Medicine. Company structure The company head office is in Singapore. The Chairman and Editor-in-Chief is Dr Phua Kok Khoo, while the Managing Director is Doreen Liu. The company was co-founded by them in 1981. Imperial College Press In 1995 the company co-founded Imperial College Press, specializing in engineering, medicine and information technology Information technology (IT) is a set of related fields within information and communications technology (ICT), that encompass computer systems, software, programming languages, data processing, data and information processing, a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Delft University Of Technology
The Delft University of Technology (TU Delft; ) is the oldest and largest Dutch public university, public Institute of technology, technical university, located in Delft, Netherlands. It specializes in engineering, technology, computing, design, and natural sciences. It is considered one of the leading technical universities in Europe and is consistently ranked as one of the best schools for architecture and engineering in the world. According to the QS World University Rankings it ranked 3rd worldwide for architecture and 13th for Engineering, Engineering & Technology in 2024. It also ranked 3rd best worldwide for Mechanical engineering, mechanical and aerospace engineering, 3rd for Civil engineering, civil and structural engineering, 11th for chemical engineering, and 12th for design. With eight Faculty (division), faculties and multiple research institutes, TU Delft educates around 27,000 students (undergraduate and postgraduate), and employs more than 3,500 doctoral candidates ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
