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Gig-mill
A gig-mill (gigging machine, napping machine) was a type of raising machine that used Teasel, teasels to produce a Nap (fabric), nap on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as Chinchilla (cloth), chinchilla, beaver cloth, and Melton (cloth), melton. The process involved gradual teasing of the surface to raise the nap. Spelling in some localities is "Gigg". Gigging Gigging was an old method of raising. As with flannelette, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teasels during ''gigging'' to elevate the surface fibers, providing hairiness and lustrous nap. The fabric gets a soft feel. Teasels from a plant, a thistle-like species, were once used to make it. These were fixed to a cylinder. Later, teasels were replaced by metallic wires similar to those used in carding machines. Napped fabrics "Napping", "raising" and "gigging" are synonymous terms. Napping is the process of brushing for raising the Nap (fabric), nap. The raising method is used to dr ...
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Nap (fabric)
Primarily, nap is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of textile, cloth, such as velvet or moleskin. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, such as the surface of a felt or beaver hat. Starting around the 14th century, the word referred originally to the roughness of weaving, woven cloth before it was Shearing (textiles), sheared."nap". ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. When cloth, especially woollen cloth, is woven, the surface of the cloth is not smooth, and this roughness is the nap. Generally the cloth is then "sheared" to create an even surface, and the nap is thus removed. A person who trimmed the surface of cloth with shears to remove any excess nap was known as a shearman. Nap typically has a direction in which it feels smoothest. In garments, nap direction is often matched across seams, because cloth will not only feel but look different depending on the direction of the nap. For this reason, sewin ...
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Chinchilla (cloth)
Chinchilla was a napped material made from fine wool. The surface has tufts very close together. Synchilla Chinchilla is a milestone fabric in the evolution of fleece. "Synchilla" (Synthetic Chinchilla) was the first generation fleece. In 1985, Synchilla was used in product "seminal Snap-T pullover" from Patagonia, Inc., which was popular in ski trips across the Northeast. Texture Chinchilla is an imitated material of Chinchilla Chinchilla refers to either of two species ('' Chinchilla chinchilla'' and '' Chinchilla lanigera'') of crepuscular rodents of the parvorder Caviomorpha, and are native to the Andes mountains in South America. They live in colonies called "her ... hairs, the fabric pile is curled up in tufts. Use Chinchilla is thick, heavy material preferred for overcoats. References Textiles Wool Waulked textiles {{Textile-stub ...
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Beaver Cloth
Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen cloth with a napped surface. Beaver is a double cloth; it resembles felted beaver-fur and is suitable for outer garments such as coats and hats. The fabric was formerly made in England. Felted beaver fur had been the material of choice for high-quality hats since the 17th century. Beaver cloth was developed in the 19th century to fulfil demand, as the fur trade had hunted beavers to near extinction in Russia and North America. Castor Castor was a cloth lighter than beaver cloth, but otherwise similar. It was produced by using fine wool. Castor was used in overcoating. See also * Swansdown * Nap (fabric) * Gig-mill A gig-mill (gigging machine, napping machine) was a type of raising machine that used Teasel, teasels to produce a Nap (fabric), nap on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as Chinchilla (cloth), chinchilla, beaver c ... References Waulked textiles Woven fabrics {{Textile-stub ...
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Carding Machine
In textile production, carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between differentially moving surfaces covered with "card clothing", a firm flexible material embedded with metal pins. It breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be parallel with each other. In preparing wool fibre for spinning, carding is the step that comes after teasing. The word is derived from the Latin meaning thistle or teasel, as dried vegetable teasels were first used to comb the raw wool before technological advances led to the use of machines. Overview The ordered fibres can then be passed on after carding to other processes that are specific to the desired end use of the fibre: Cotton, batting, felt, woollen or worsted yarn, etc. Carding can also be used to create blends of different fibres or differen ...
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Shearing (textiles)
Shearing is a kind of mechanical finish in which the appearance of the fabric is enhanced by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. The machine may have a spiral blade similar to a reel lawn mower. A shearing machine can cut the loop or the pile to a desired level. Shearing was most commonly used to make woollens and worsted materials. It was a part of dry finishing of woollen and worsted goods. Previously, shearing was also a component of gigging or napping; when partially produced goods were exposed to shear in order to improve the impact of gigging or napping, the process was referred to as "cropping". History Most of the Medieval clothing and textiles were processed and finished manually. The finishing of English Woollens includes shearing. Shearmen were skilled artisans who used to shear the fabric by hand. Shearman's job was to nap the cloth manually, using teasels and shears to trim the pile. A silky and smooth feeling was produced by the gradu ...
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Aachen Fine Cloth
The textile industry in Aachen has a history that dates back to the Middle Ages. The Imperial city of Aachen was the main woolen center of the Rhineland. Certain kind of woolens made there were illustrated as "Aachen fine cloth" (). These high-quality fine woolens have a plain weave structure using carded merino wool yarns, and a raised surface. The production of high-quality, fine cloth required fine foreign wool and skilled craftsmen and was reserved for town craftsmen. It involved regulated steps including sorting, combing, washing, spinning, fulling, dyeing, shearing, and pressing the wool. The finished products were inspected and authorized with a town trademark before being sold and exported. Fine cloth was a major export in the Middle Ages. The city's industrial importance stemmed from its status as a center of high-quality cloth production. Aachen textile manufacturing went through different phases, from rural craft and domestic production to organised forms of industry. ...
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Textiles
Textile is an Hyponymy and hypernymy, umbrella term that includes various Fiber, fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, Staple (textiles)#Filament fiber, filaments, Thread (yarn), threads, and different types of #Fabric, fabric. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and Nonwoven, non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to Bulletproof vest, bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and Medical gown, doctor's gowns. Textiles are divided into two groups: consumer textiles for domestic purposes and technical textiles. In consumer textiles, Aesthetics (textile), aesthetics and Textile performance#Comfort, comfort are the most important factors, while in techn ...
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Textile Techniques
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, and different types of fabric. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns. Textiles are divided into two groups: consumer textiles for domestic purposes and technical textiles. In consumer textiles, aesthetics and comfort are the most important factors, while in technical textiles, functional properties are the priority. The durability of textiles is an important property, with common cotton or blend garments (such as t-shirts) able to last ...
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Leeds Industrial Museum Raising Gig 7063
Leeds is a city in West Yorkshire, England. It is the largest settlement in Yorkshire and the administrative centre of the City of Leeds Metropolitan Borough, which is the second most populous district in the United Kingdom. It is built around the River Aire and is in the eastern foothills of the Pennines. The city was a small manorial borough in the 13th century and a market town in the 16th century. It expanded by becoming a major production and trading centre (mainly with wool) in the 17th and 18th centuries. Leeds developed as a mill town during the Industrial Revolution alongside other surrounding villages and towns in the West Riding of Yorkshire. It was also known for its flax industry, iron foundries, engineering and printing, as well as shopping, with several surviving Victorian era arcades, such as Kirkgate Market. City status was awarded in 1893, and a populous urban centre formed in the following century which absorbed surrounding villages and overtook the popula ...
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Teasel
''Dipsacus'' is a genus of flowering plant in the family Caprifoliaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel, teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants (rarely short-lived perennial plants) growing to tall. ''Dipsacus'' species are native to Europe, Asia and northern Africa. Etymology The genus name (''Dipsacus'') is derived from the Greek word for thirst (''dipsa'') and refers to the cup-like formation made where Sessility (botany), sessile leaves merge at the stem. The name ''teasel'' derives from words such as Old English ''tǣsl'', ''tǣsel''; relating to the verb "to tease" – the dried heads of the plant were once used in the textile industry to raise the nap on woolen cloth. Description Teasels are easily identified with their prickly stem and leaves, and the inflorescence of purple, dark pink, lavender or white flowers that form a head on the end of the stem(s). The inflorescence is ovoid, long and broad, wit ...
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Melton (cloth)
Melton cloth, woven in a twill form and traditionally made of wool, is a very solid cloth whose finishing processes completely conceal the twill weave pattern. It is thick, because of having been well fulled, which gives it a felt-like smooth surface, and is napped and very closely sheared. Melton is similar to Mackinaw cloth. Because of its dense, quasi-felted texture it frays minimally or not at all. It is hard-wearing and wind- and weather-resistant. Its main use is for heavy outer garments and coats and for blankets. In lighter weights melton cloth is traditionally used for lining the underside of jacket collars. It was developed in the Leicestershire town of Melton Mowbray, from which it derives its name. This town is the traditional centre of English fox-hunting, and black and scarlet hunting coats are traditionally made from melton cloth, for its weatherproof qualities. In England not only is melton used for the scarlet hunting coat, an iconic symbol of the upper-class el ...
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Plant
Plants are the eukaryotes that form the Kingdom (biology), kingdom Plantae; they are predominantly Photosynthesis, photosynthetic. This means that they obtain their energy from sunlight, using chloroplasts derived from endosymbiosis with cyanobacteria to produce sugars from carbon dioxide and water, using the green pigment chlorophyll. Exceptions are parasitic plants that have lost the genes for chlorophyll and photosynthesis, and obtain their energy from other plants or fungi. Most plants are multicellular organism, multicellular, except for some green algae. Historically, as in Aristotle's biology, the plant kingdom encompassed all living things that were not animals, and included algae and fungi. Definitions have narrowed since then; current definitions exclude fungi and some of the algae. By the definition used in this article, plants form the clade Viridiplantae (green plants), which consists of the green algae and the embryophytes or land plants (hornworts, liverworts ...
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