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Tailors
A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of tailor shops in Ancient Greece and Rome, as well as tailoring tools such as irons and shears. The profession of tailor in Europe became formalized in the High Middle Ages through the establishment of guilds. Tailors' guilds instituted a system of masters, journeymen, and apprentices. Guild members established rules to limit competition and establish quality standards. In 1244, members of the tailor's guild in Bologna established statutes to govern their profession and required anyone working as a tailor to join the guild. In England, the Statute of Artificers, passed in 1563, included the profession of tailor as one of the trades that could be entered only by serving a term of apprenticeship, typically seven years. A typical tailor shop ...
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Bespoke Tailoring
Bespoke tailoring or custom tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor. Clothing Meaning of the term The word ''bespoke'' derives from the verb ''bespeak'', to speak for something, in the specialised meaning of "to give order for it to be made." Fashion terminology reserves ''bespoke'' for individually patterned and crafted men's clothing, analogous to women's haute couture, as opposed to mass-manufactured ready-to-wear (off-the-peg or off-the-rack). The term originated on Savile Row, a street in London considered the "Golden Mile of tailoring". Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so differs from ready-to-wear, which is factory made in finished condition and standardised sizes, and from made to measure, which is produced to order from an adjusted block pattern. The opposition of terms did not initially imply that a bespoke garment was necessarily well built, but since the developm ...
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Seamstress At Work
A dressmaker, also known as a seamstress, is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Dressmakers were historically known as mantua-makers, and are also known as a modiste or fabrician. Notable dressmakers *Cristóbal Balenciaga * Pierre Balmain *Coco Chanel *Christian Dior * David Emanuel *Norman Hartnell, royal dressmaker * Elizabeth Keckley, modiste and confidante to Mary Todd Lincoln * Jean Muir, fashion designer * Madame Palmyre, a favorite designer and dressmaker of the empress of France * Anna and Laura Tirocchi, Providence, Rhode Island * Isabel Toledo *Madeleine Vionnet *Janet Walker, costumier and dress-making-bust inventor *Charles Frederick Worth Related terms * 'Dressmaker' denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term 'dressmaker details' which includes ruffles, frills, ribbon or braid trim. 'Dressmaker' in this sense is contrasted to 'tailored' and has fallen out of use since t ...
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Juan De Alcega
Juan de Alcega was a 16th-century tailor and mathematician from Basque country, Spain. Life and work Little is known about the life of Juan de Alcega. He was born in the province of Gipuzkoa, probably in the town of Hondarribia. In 1580 he published in Madrid the book entitled ''Libro de Geometría, practica, y traça (Book on Geometry, Practice, and Pattern)'', reedited in 1589. This book is a clear example of the application of mathematics to technology in its first modern states. It was also the subject of studies on philology Philology () is the study of language in oral and written historical sources; it is the intersection of textual criticism, literary criticism, history, and linguistics (with especially strong ties to etymology). Philology is also defined as ... by his terminology and by his exposition of the mode of his times. In the introduction to his book, he states that he had some difficulties publishing it due to the resistance of the medieval guild of ...
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Raja Daswani Fitting
''Raja'' (; from , IAST The International Alphabet of Sanskrit Transliteration (IAST) is a transliteration scheme that allows the lossless romanisation of Indic scripts as employed by Sanskrit and related Indic languages. It is based on a scheme that emerged during ... ') is a royal title used for South Asian monarchs. The title is equivalent to king or princely ruler in South Asia and Southeast Asia. The title has a long history in history of South Asia, South Asia and History of Southeast Asia, Southeast Asia, being attested from the Rigveda, where a ' is a Rigvedic tribes, ruler, see for example the Battle of the Ten Kings, ', the "Battle of Ten Kings". Raja-ruled Indian states While most of the Indian subcontinent, Indian salute states (those granted a Salute#Heavy arms: gun salutes, gun salute by the The Crown, British Crown) were ruled by a Maharaja (or variation; some promoted from an earlier Raja- or equivalent style), even exclusively from 13 guns up, a ...
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History Of Sewing Patterns
A sewing pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. Before the mid-19th century, many women sewed their own clothing by hand. Factory-produced fabrics were affordable and available in the early 19th century, but easy-to-use dress patterns and sewing machines for the home seamstress were not sold in the United States until the 1850s. Early publications The earliest sewing patterns for the public were published in books, trade magazines, journals, and other periodicals. Full-size pattern sheets suitable for tracing were sometimes included in women's periodicals from around 1770 on. In 1808, ''The Lady's Economical Assistant'' was published in England, providing full-sized sewing patterns that could be traced. Other early publi ...
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Made-to-measure
Made-to-measure (MTM) typically refers to custom clothing that is cut and sewn using a standard-sized base pattern. Suits and sport coats are the most common garments made-to-measure. The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment because made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually based on a few body measurements to customize the pre-existing pattern. Made-to-measure garments always involve some form of standardization in the pattern and manufacturing, whereas bespoke tailoring is entirely made from scratch based on a customer's specifications with far more attention to minute fit details and using multiple fittings during the construction process. All else being equal, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than a ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one. "Custom made" most often refers to MTM. Overview To order a made-to-measure garment, the customer's measurements a ...
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Ivy League
The Ivy League is an American collegiate athletic conference comprising eight private research universities in the Northeastern United States. The term ''Ivy League'' is typically used beyond the sports context to refer to the eight schools as a group of elite colleges with connotations of academic excellence, selectivity in admissions, and social elitism. Its members are Brown University, Columbia University, Cornell University, Dartmouth College, Harvard University, Princeton University, University of Pennsylvania, and Yale University. While the term was in use as early as 1933, it became official only after the formation of the athletic conference in 1954. All of the "Ivies" except Cornell were founded during the colonial period; they thus account for seven of the nine colonial colleges chartered before the American Revolution. The other two colonial colleges, Rutgers University and the College of William & Mary, became public institutions. Ivy League schools ar ...
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Rubinacci
Rubinacci is an Italian luxury clothing company founded in Naples, Italy in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci under the name of the ''London House''. The idea Rubinacci had was to create unstructured, unlined jackets meant to be worn outside of the office. Among his early clients were filmmaker Vittorio De Sica and journalist Curzio Malaparte. History The history of Rubinacci began with art collector Gennaro Rubinacci's own tailoring emporium; he opened ''London House'', at 25 Via Filangieri. In 1961, Gennaro's son, Mariano, took control of the company. In 1963, he changed its name to ''Rubinacci'', maintaining the initials of the original name in the logo. Later, a branch was opened in Milan, in 1989, and in London in 2005. As of 2018, Luca Rubinacci, Gennaro's grandson, is the creative director of Rubinacci, and responsible for launching the firm's ready-to-wear line. He is considered a particularly stylish dresser. Exhibitions and exhibits Mariano Rubinacci established a museum of ...
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Brioni (brand)
Brioni is an Italian menswear luxury house based in Rome and specialised in sartorial ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance, and provides a tailor-made service (Bespoke). Brioni was founded in Rome in 1945. In 1952, the brand organised the first menswear runway show in the modern history of fashion. Brioni opened the tailoring school Scuola di Alta Sartoria in Penne, Italia, in 1985. Brioni was acquired by the luxury group Kering in 2011. Mehdi Benabadji is the CEO of Brioni since December 2019, and Norbert Stumpfl the creative director since October 2018. History Peacock Revolution The first Brioni store, a tailor menswear boutique, was established on Via Barberini 79 in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini. The name Brioni is a reference to the Italian Brionian Islands (now part of Croatia), a vacation destination for European jet-setters in the early twentieth century. Brioni was the first tailor for menswear to use bold colors and ...
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Italy
Italy ( it, Italia ), officially the Italian Republic, ) or the Republic of Italy, is a country in Southern Europe. It is located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, and its territory largely coincides with the homonymous geographical region. Italy is also considered part of Western Europe, and shares land borders with France, Switzerland, Austria, Slovenia and the enclaved microstates of Vatican City and San Marino. It has a territorial exclave in Switzerland, Campione. Italy covers an area of , with a population of over 60 million. It is the third-most populous member state of the European Union, the sixth-most populous country in Europe, and the tenth-largest country in the continent by land area. Italy's capital and largest city is Rome. Italy was the native place of many civilizations such as the Italic peoples and the Etruscans, while due to its central geographic location in Southern Europe and the Mediterranean, the country has also historically b ...
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Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard is a bespoke tailor on Savile Row, London, established in the Row itself in 1906. Its bespoke tailoring shop is in Old Burlington Street, whence it moved in 2005. It also sells ready-made menswear from its old school style 'haberdashery' shop premises in nearby Clifford Street, as well as online. Since 2004, it has been owned by Anda Rowland, who inherited it from her father, Roland "Tiny" Rowland. The head cutter is John Hitchcock. Clientele Former devotees have included Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Noël Coward, and Bryan Ferry. Anderson & Sheppard kept Prince Charles in double breasted suits for years. In 2004, Tom Ford Thomas Carlyle Ford (born August 27, 1961) is an American fashion designer and filmmaker. He launched his eponymous luxury brand in 2005, having previously served as the creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Ford wrote and dire ... became a customer of the firm, commissioning suits that would later appear in a ''W'' maga ...
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