Vosges Mountains
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The Vosges ( , ; german: Vogesen ; Franconian and gsw, Vogese) are a range of low mountains in Eastern
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Its metropolitan area ...
, near its
border Borders are usually defined as geographical boundaries, imposed either by features such as oceans and terrain, or by political entities such as governments, sovereign states, federated states, and other subnational entities. Political borders c ...
with
Germany Germany,, officially the Federal Republic of Germany, is a country in Central Europe. It is the second most populous country in Europe after Russia, and the most populous member state of the European Union. Germany is situated betwe ...
. Together with the Palatine Forest to the north on the German side of the border, they form a single geomorphological unit and low mountain range of around in area. It runs in a north-northeast direction from the Burgundian Gate (the
Belfort Belfort (; archaic german: Beffert/Beffort) is a city in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in Northeastern France, situated between Lyon and Strasbourg, approximately from the France–Switzerland border. It is the prefecture of the Terri ...
RonchampLure line) to the Börrstadt Basin (the WinnweilerBörrstadtGöllheim line), and forms the western boundary of the Upper Rhine Plain. The Grand Ballon is the highest peak at , followed by the Storkenkopf (), and the Hohneck (). IGN maps available o
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Geography

Geographically, the Vosges Mountains are wholly in France, far above the Col de Saverne separating them from the Palatinate Forest in Germany. The latter area logically continues the same Vosges geologic structure but traditionally receives this different name for historical and political reasons. From 1871 to 1918 the Vosges marked for the most part the border between Germany and France, due to the Franco-Prussian War. The elongated
massif In geology, a massif ( or ) is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole. The term also refers to a ...
is divided south to north into three sections: * The Higher Vosges or High VosgesDickinson, Robert E (1964). ''Germany: A Regional and Economic Geography'' (2nd ed.). London: Methuen, p. 540. . (''Hautes Vosges''), extending in the southern part of the range from Belfort to the river valley of the Bruche. The rounded summits of the Hautes Vosges are called ''ballons'' in French, literally "balloons". * The
sandstone Sandstone is a clastic sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized (0.0625 to 2 mm) silicate grains. Sandstones comprise about 20–25% of all sedimentary rocks. Most sandstone is composed of quartz or feldspar (both silicates ...
Vosges or Middle Vosges (), between the Permian Basin of Saint-Die including the Devonian- Dinantian volcanic massif of Schirmeck-Moyenmoutier and the Col de Saverne * The Lower Vosges or Low Vosges (), commonly known as North Vosges, a sandstone plateau ranging from to high, between the Col de Saverne and the source of the Lauter. In addition, the term "Central Vosges" is used to designate the various lines of summits, especially those above in elevation. The French department of Vosges is named after the range.


Geology

From a geological point of view, a graben at the beginning of the Paleogene period caused the formation of
Alsace Alsace (, ; ; Low Alemannic German/ gsw-FR, Elsàss ; german: Elsass ; la, Alsatia) is a cultural region and a territorial collectivity in eastern France, on the west bank of the upper Rhine next to Germany and Switzerland. In 2020, it had ...
and the uplift of the bedrock plates of the Vosges, in eastern France, and those in the
Black Forest The Black Forest (german: Schwarzwald ) is a large forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany, bounded by the Rhine Valley to the west and south and close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It is t ...
, in Germany. From a scientific view, the Vosges Mountains are not mountains as such, but rather the western edge of the unfinished Alsatian graben, stretching continuously as part of the larger Tertiary formations. Erosive
glacial A glacial period (alternatively glacial or glaciation) is an interval of time (thousands of years) within an ice age that is marked by colder temperatures and glacier advances. Interglacials, on the other hand, are periods of warmer climate betwe ...
action was the primary catalyst for development of the highland massif feature. The Vosges in their southern and central parts are called the ''Hautes Vosges''. These consist of a large Carboniferous mountain eroded just before the
Permian The Permian ( ) is a geologic period and System (stratigraphy), stratigraphic system which spans 47 million years from the end of the Carboniferous Period million years ago (Mya), to the beginning of the Triassic Period 251.9 Mya. It is the last ...
Period with
gneiss Gneiss ( ) is a common and widely distributed type of metamorphic rock. It is formed by high-temperature and high-pressure metamorphic processes acting on formations composed of igneous or sedimentary rocks. Gneiss forms at higher temperatures a ...
,
granite Granite () is a coarse-grained ( phaneritic) intrusive igneous rock composed mostly of quartz, alkali feldspar, and plagioclase. It forms from magma with a high content of silica and alkali metal oxides that slowly cools and solidifies under ...
s, porphyritic masses or other volcanic intrusions. The north, south and west parts are less eroded by glaciers, and here Vosges
Triassic The Triassic ( ) is a geologic period and system (stratigraphy), system which spans 50.6 million years from the end of the Permian Period 251.902 million years ago (Year#Abbreviations yr and ya, Mya), to the beginning of the Jurassic Period 201.36 ...
and Permian red
sandstone Sandstone is a clastic sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized (0.0625 to 2 mm) silicate grains. Sandstones comprise about 20–25% of all sedimentary rocks. Most sandstone is composed of quartz or feldspar (both silicates ...
remains are found in large beds. The ''grès vosgien'' (a French name for a Triassic rose sandstone) are embedded sometimes up to more than in thickness. The Lower Vosges in the north are dislocated plates of various sandstones, ranging from high. The Vosges are very similar to the corresponding range of the
Black Forest The Black Forest (german: Schwarzwald ) is a large forested mountain range in the state of Baden-Württemberg in southwest Germany, bounded by the Rhine Valley to the west and south and close to the borders with France and Switzerland. It is t ...
across the
Rhine ), Surselva, Graubünden, Switzerland , source1_coordinates= , source1_elevation = , source2 = Rein Posteriur/Hinterrhein , source2_location = Paradies Glacier, Graubünden, Switzerland , source2_coordinates= , so ...
since both lie within the same degrees of latitude, have similar geological formations and are characterized by forests on their lower slopes, above which are open pastures and rounded summits of a rather uniform altitude. Both areas exhibit steeper slopes towards the
Rhine ), Surselva, Graubünden, Switzerland , source1_coordinates= , source1_elevation = , source2 = Rein Posteriur/Hinterrhein , source2_location = Paradies Glacier, Graubünden, Switzerland , source2_coordinates= , so ...
and a more gradual descent on the other side. Both the Vosges and the Black Forest were formed by isostatic uplift in response to the opening of the Rhine Graben, a major extensional basin. When such basins form, the thinning of the crust causes uplift immediately adjacent to the basin, decreasing with distance from the basin. Thus, the highest range of peaks rises immediately adjacent to the basin and increasingly lower mountains rise further from the basin.


Mountains

The highest points are in the ''Hautes Vosges'': the Grand Ballon, in ancient times called ''Ballon de Guebwiller'' or ''Ballon de Murbach,'' rises to ; the Storckenkopf to ; the Hohneck to ; the
Kastelberg The Kastelberg is the fourth highest summit of the Vosges Mountains. It is located on the former border between the French regions of Alsace and Lorraine. Etymology In German ''Kastelberg'' means ''mountain of the castle''. Geography The m ...
to ; and the Ballon d'Alsace to . The Col de Saales, between the Higher and Central Vosges, reaches nearly , both lower and narrower than the Higher Vosges, with Mont Donon at being the highest point of this Nordic section. The highest mountains and peaks of the Vosges (with Alsatian or German names in brackets) are: * Grand Ballon (''Großer Belchen'') * Storkenkopf * Hohneck *
Kastelberg The Kastelberg is the fourth highest summit of the Vosges Mountains. It is located on the former border between the French regions of Alsace and Lorraine. Etymology In German ''Kastelberg'' means ''mountain of the castle''. Geography The m ...
* Klintzkopf (''Klinzkopf'') * Rothenbachkopf * Lauchenkopf * Batteriekopf * Haut de Falimont * Gazon du Faing *
Rainkopf The Rainkopf is one of the highest summits of the Vosges Mountains. It is located on the border between the French regions of Alsace and Lorraine. Not faraway from its summit is located a mountain hut called ''Refuge "Louis Hergès" au Rainkopf'' ...
* Gazon du Faîte * Ringbuhl (''Ringbühl'') * Soultzereneck (''Sulzereneck'') * Le Tanet (''Tanneck'') *
Petit Ballon The Petit Ballon (german: Kleiner Belchen) or Little Belchen,Chevrier, Jean-François. ''From Basel - Herzog & de Meuron'', Basel: Birkhäuser, 2016, p. 54. is, at 1272m, one of the highest peaks of the Vosges Mountains in the department of Haut-R ...
(''Kahler Wasen'' or ''Kleiner Belchen'') * Ballon d'Alsace (''Elsässer Belchen'') * Brézouard * Ballon de Servance (highest point in the département of
Haute-Saône Haute-Saône (; Arpitan: ''Hiôta-Sona''; English: Upper Saône) is a department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of northeastern France. Named after the river Saône, it had a population of 235,313 in 2019.Drumont * Planche des Belles Filles * Molkenrain * Champ du Feu (''Hochfeld'' or ''Firstfeld'') * Baerenkopf * Rocher de Mutzig (''Mutzigfelsen'') * Donon * Taennchel (''Tännchel'') *
Climont Climont, formerly called "Clivemont" in Old French, and "Winberg" in Old Alsatian, is a conical sandstone peak of the Vosges mountains. The mountain, with a cut-off shape, is known from afar by walkers and modern-day travellers. Situated today i ...
* Hartmannswillerkopf (''Hartmannsweilerkopf'') * Chatte Pendue * Ungersberg *
Tête du Coquin Tête, head in French, may refer to : * Tête (sculpture), ''Tête'' (sculpture), a 1912 work of art by Amedeo Modigliani; one of the most expensive sculptures ever sold * "Je danse dans ma tête", a 1991 song from the Dion chante Plamondon album ...
* Mont Saint-Odile (''Odilienberg'') *
Dabo is a Japanese hip-hop rapper. He first appeared on the Japanese hip-hop scene in the 1990s, collaborating in a Shakkazombie song, ''"Tomo ni ikkou"''. Since 2002, he has released three albums: ''Hitman'' (2002), ''Diamond'' (2003), and ''The Fo ...
(''Dagsburg'') * Grand Wintersberg (''Großer Wintersberg'') * Hohenbourg (''Hohenburg'')


Nature parks and protected areas

Two nature parks lie within the Vosges: the Ballons des Vosges Nature Park and the
Northern Vosges Regional Nature Park The Northern Vosges Regional Natural Park (French: ''Parc naturel régional des Vosges du Nord'') is a protected area of woodland, wetland, farmland and historical sites in the region Grand Est in northeastern France. The area was officially des ...
. The Northern Vosges Nature Park and the Palatinate Forest Nature Park on the German side of the border form the cross-border
UNESCO The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations (UN) aimed at promoting world peace and security through international cooperation in education, arts, sciences and culture. It ...
-designated Palatinate Forest-North Vosges Biosphere Reserve. In the late 20th century, a wide area of the massif was included in two protected areas, the Parc naturel régional des Vosges du Nord (established in 1976) and the Parc naturel régional des Ballons des Vosges (established in 1989).


Climate

Meteorologically, as a consequence of the Foehn effect the difference between the eastern and western mean slopes of the range is very marked. The main air streams come generally from the west and southwest, so the Alsatian central plains just under the Hautes-Vosges receive much less water than the south-west front of the Vosges Mountains. The highlands of the
arrondissement An arrondissement (, , ) is any of various administrative divisions of France, Belgium, Haiti, certain other Francophone countries, as well as the Netherlands. Europe France The 101 French departments are divided into 342 ''arrondissements ...
of Remiremont receive as annual rainfall or snowfall more than of precipitation yearly, whereas some dry countryside near Colmar receives less than of water in the event of insufficient storms. The temperature is much lower in the west front of the mountains than in the low plains behind the massif, especially in summer. On the eastern slope economic vineyards reach to a height of ; on the other hand, in the mountains, it is a land of pasture and forest. The only rivers in Alsace are the Ill coming from south Alsace (or Sundgau), and the Bruche d'Andlau and the Bruche which have as tributaries other, shorter but sometimes powerful streams coming like the last two from the Vosges Mountains. The rivers Moselle, Meurthe and Sarre and their numerous affluents all rise on the
Lorraine Lorraine , also , , ; Lorrain: ''Louréne''; Lorraine Franconian: ''Lottringe''; german: Lothringen ; lb, Loutrengen; nl, Lotharingen is a cultural and historical region in Northeastern France, now located in the administrative region of Gra ...
side. In the High Moselle and Meurthe basins, moraines, boulders and polished rocks testify to the former existence of
glacier A glacier (; ) is a persistent body of dense ice that is constantly moving under its own weight. A glacier forms where the accumulation of snow exceeds its ablation over many years, often centuries. It acquires distinguishing features, such as ...
s which once covered the top of the Vosges. The mountain lakes caused by the original glacial phenomena are surrounded by pines, beeches and maples, and green meadows provide pasture for large herds of cattle, with views of the Rhine valley, the Black Forest and the distant, snow-covered Swiss mountains.


History

The massif known in
Latin Latin (, or , ) is a classical language belonging to the Italic branch of the Indo-European languages. Latin was originally a dialect spoken in the lower Tiber area (then known as Latium) around present-day Rome, but through the power of the ...
as ''Vosago mons '' or ''Vosego silva'', sometimes ''Vogesus mons'', was extended to the vast woods covering the region. Later, German speakers referred to the same region as ''Vogesen'' or ''Wasgenwald''. Over the centuries, settlement population density grew gradually, as was typical for a forested region. Forests were cleared for agriculture, livestock and early industrial factories (such as charcoal works and
glassworks Glass production involves two main methods – the float glass process that produces sheet glass, and glassblowing that produces bottles and other containers. It has been done in a variety of ways during the history of glass. Glass container ...
) and the
water mill A watermill or water mill is a mill that uses hydropower. It is a structure that uses a water wheel or water turbine to drive a mechanical process such as milling (grinding), rolling, or hammering. Such processes are needed in the production ...
s used water power. Concentrations of settlement and immigration took place and not only in areas where
minerals In geology and mineralogy, a mineral or mineral species is, broadly speaking, a solid chemical compound with a fairly well-defined chemical composition and a specific crystal structure that occurs naturally in pure form.John P. Rafferty, ed ...
were found. In the
mining Mining is the extraction of valuable minerals or other geological materials from the Earth, usually from an ore body, lode, vein, seam, reef, or placer deposit. The exploitation of these deposits for raw material is based on the economic ...
area of the Lièpvrette valley, for example, there was an influx of Saxon miners and mining specialists. From time to time, wars, plagues and religious conflicts saw the depopulation of territories – in their wake it was not uncommon for people to be relocated there from other areas. On the lower heights and buttresses of the main chain on the Alsatian side are numerous castles, generally in ruins, testifying to the importance of this crucial crossroads of Europe, violently contested for centuries. At several points on the main ridge, especially at Sainte Odile above
Ribeauvillé Ribeauvillé (; Alsatian: ''Rappschwihr''; ) is a commune in the Haut-Rhin department in Grand Est in north-eastern France. It was a sub-prefecture of the department until 2015. Its inhabitants are called ''Ribeauvillois''. Geography The ...
(German: Rappoltsweiler), are the remains of a wall of unmortared stone with tenons of wood, about thick and high, called the ''Mur Païen'' (Pagan Wall). It was used for defence in the
Middle Ages In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire ...
and archaeologists are divided as to whether it was built by the Romans, or before their arrival. During the
French Revolutionary Wars The French Revolutionary Wars (french: Guerres de la Révolution française) were a series of sweeping military conflicts lasting from 1792 until 1802 and resulting from the French Revolution. They pitted France against Britain, Austria, Prussia ...
, on 13 July 1794, the Vosges were the scene of the Battle of Trippstadt. From 1871 to 1918, they formed the main border line between France and the German Empire. The demarcation line stretched from the Ballon d'Alsace in the south to Mont Donon in the north with the lands east of it being incorporated into Germany as part of Alsace-Lorraine. The Vosges saw extensive fighting during the world wars. During World War I, there was severe and almost continuous fighting in the mountains. During World War II in October 1944, there was a fierce battle between German forces and the U.S. 442nd Battalion, a segregated unit composed of second-generation Japanese Americans (Nisei), during which the 442nd charged straight up the mountain to rescue the 1st Battalion of the 36th Infantry, formerly the Texas Guard—also known as the "Lost Battalion"—who were cut off and stranded on the mountainside under heavy fire from the Germans. Two previous rescues failed. The 442nd suffered 800 casualties, rescued the Texans, and took the mountain. Brown, James Daniel, Facing the Mountain, a True Story of Japanese American Heroes in WWII (Viking, 2021), Chapter 18. On 20 January 1992
Air Inter Flight 148 Air Inter Flight 148 was a scheduled passenger flight from Lyon Satolas Airport to Strasbourg Airport in France. On 20 January 1992, the Airbus A320 operating the flight crashed into the slopes of the Vosges Mountains, France, near Mont Saint ...
crashed into the Vosges Mountains while circling to land at Strasbourg International Airport, killing 87 people.


Language

In pre-Roman times, the Vosges was empty of settlements or was colonized and dominated by the
Celts The Celts (, see pronunciation for different usages) or Celtic peoples () are. "CELTS location: Greater Europe time period: Second millennium B.C.E. to present ancestry: Celtic a collection of Indo-European peoples. "The Celts, an ancien ...
. After the Roman era, Alemanni also settled in the east, and
Franks The Franks ( la, Franci or ) were a group of Germanic peoples whose name was first mentioned in 3rd-century Roman sources, and associated with tribes between the Lower Rhine and the Ems River, on the edge of the Roman Empire.H. Schutz: Tools, ...
in the northwest. Contrary to widespread belief, the main ridge of the Vosges coincided with the historical Roman-Germanic language boundary only in the southern Vosges. Old Romance (''Altromanisch'') is spoken east of the main ridge: in the valley of the Weiss around Lapoutroie, the valley of Lièpvrette (nowadays also called the ''Val d'Argent''; "Valley of Silver"), parts of the canton of Villé valley (''Vallée de Villé'') and parts of the
Bruche valley The Bruche () is a river in Alsace, in north-eastern France. It is a left-side tributary of the Ill, and part of the Rhine basin. It is 76.7 km long, and has a drainage basin of 720 km2.Wasgau, which lie north of the Breusch valley, fall within the Germanic-speaking area because, from Schirmeck the historical linguistic boundary turns to the northwest and runs between Donon and Mutzigfelsen heading for Sarrebourg (''Saarburg''). The Germanic areas of the Vosges mountains are part of the
Alemannic dialect Alemannic, or rarely Alemannish (''Alemannisch'', ), is a group of High German dialects. The name derives from the ancient Germanic tribal confederation known as the Alamanni ("all men"). Distribution Alemannic dialects are spoken by approxim ...
region and cultural area and, in the north, also part of the Frankish dialect region and cultural area. The Romance-speaking areas are traditionally part of the Lorrain language region in the west and the Frainc-Comtou region in the south. For a long time the distribution of languages and dialects basically correlated with the pattern of settlement movements. However, the switch from German to French as the lingua franca which took place between the 17th and the 20th century across the whole of Alsace was not accompanied by any further significant movements of population.


See also

* Northern Vosges Regional Natural Park * Vosges and Jura coal mining basins


References

*


Further reading

General texts: * René Bastien, ''Histoire de Lorraine'', éditions Serpenoise, Metz, 1991, 224 pages. (simple historic approach for children) * Etienne Julliard, ''Atlas et géographie de l'Alsace et de la Lorraine'', Flammarion, 1977, 288 pages (a geogropher's view of this part of France who gives theirs waters to Rhin) * Robert Parisot, ''Histoire de Lorraine (Meurthe, Meuse, Moselle, Vosges)'', Tome 1 à 4 et index alphabétique général, Auguste Picard éditeur, Paris, 1924. Anastaltic impression in Belgium by the éditions Culture et Civilisation, Bruxelles, 1978. (large and more sophisticated evenemential history) * Yves Sell (dir.), ''L'Alsace et les Vosges, géologie, milieux naturels, flore et faune'', La bibliothèque du naturaliste, Delachaux et Niestlé, Lausanne, 1998, 352 pages. (global view of nature and land) * Jean-Paul von Eller, ''Guide géologique Vosges-Alsace'', guide régionaux, collection dirigée par Charles Pomerol, 2° édition, Masson, Paris, 1984, 184 pages. (a precise geologic description) List of majors periodicals concerning Lorraine and South Lorraine: * ''Annales de l'Est (et du Nord)'', Nancy. * ''Annales de la Société d'Émulation des Vosges'', Epinal, from 1826. * ''Bulletin de la Société Philomatique Vosgienne'', Saint-Dié, from 1875 to 1999 (nowadays ''Mémoire des Vosges Histoire Société Coutumes'') * Publications of the ''Société d'Histoire et d'Archéologie lorraine'', Metz (from 1890, nowadays ''Les Cahiers Lorrains'', trimestrial review). * Publications of the ''Société d'Histoire de la Lorraine &
Musée Lorrain The Ducal Palace of Nancy (French: ''Palais ducal du Nancy'') is a former princely residence in Nancy, France, which was home to the Dukes of Lorraine. It houses the Musée Lorrain, one of Nancy's principal museums, dedicated to the art, hist ...
'', Nancy (Lotharingist wrintings since 1820, nowadays trimestrial périodical, ''Le Pays Lorrain'') On the
First World War World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fightin ...
: * ''Guide des sources de la Grande Guerre dans le département des Vosges'', Conseil général de Vosges, Epinal, 2008, 296 pages. * Isabelle Chave (dir.) avec Magali Delavenne, Jean-Claude Fombaron, Philippe Nivet, Yann Prouillet, ''La Grande Guerre dans les Vosges : sources et état des lieux'', Actes du colloque tenu à Epinal du 4 au 6 septembre 2008, Conseil général des Vosges, 2009, 348 pages. * "La guerre aérienne dans les Vosges. 1914–1919", ''Mémoire des Vosges H.S.C.'' édité par la Société Philomatique Vosgienne, ors série n°5, septembre 2009 68 pages.


External links

* {{Authority control Biosphere reserves of France Mountain ranges of Grand Est Mountain ranges of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Horsts (geology)