Ursell number
   HOME

TheInfoList



OR:

In fluid dynamics, the Ursell number indicates the
nonlinearity In mathematics and science, a nonlinear system is a system in which the change of the output is not proportional to the change of the input. Nonlinear problems are of interest to engineers, biologists, physicists, mathematicians, and many other ...
of long surface gravity waves on a fluid layer. This
dimensionless A dimensionless quantity (also known as a bare quantity, pure quantity, or scalar quantity as well as quantity of dimension one) is a quantity to which no physical dimension is assigned, with a corresponding SI unit of measurement of one (or 1) ...
parameter is named after
Fritz Ursell Fritz Joseph Ursell FRS (28 April 1923 – 11 May 2012) was a British mathematician noted for his contributions to fluid mechanics, especially in the area of wave-structure interactions. He held the Beyer Chair of Applied Mathematics at the Uni ...
, who discussed its significance in 1953. The Ursell number is derived from the Stokes wave expansion, a perturbation series for nonlinear periodic waves, in the long-wave limit of shallow water – when the
wavelength In physics, the wavelength is the spatial period of a periodic wave—the distance over which the wave's shape repeats. It is the distance between consecutive corresponding points of the same phase on the wave, such as two adjacent crests, t ...
is much larger than the water depth. Then the Ursell number ''U'' is defined as: :U\, =\, \frac \left(\frac\right)^2\, =\, \frac, which is, apart from a constant 3 / (32 π2), the ratio of the
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of am ...
s of the second-order to the first-order term in the
free surface In physics, a free surface is the surface of a fluid that is subject to zero parallel shear stress, such as the interface between two homogeneous fluids. An example of two such homogeneous fluids would be a body of water (liquid) and the air in ...
elevation. The used parameters are: * ''H'' : the
wave height In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighboring trough. ''Wave height'' is a term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering. At sea, the te ...
, ''i.e.'' the difference between the elevations of the wave
crest Crest or CREST may refer to: Buildings *The Crest (Huntington, New York), a historic house in Suffolk County, New York *"The Crest", an alternate name for 63 Wall Street, in Manhattan, New York *Crest Castle (Château Du Crest), Jussy, Switzerla ...
and trough, * ''h'' : the mean water depth, and * ''λ'' : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth, ''λ'' ≫ ''h''. So the Ursell parameter ''U'' is the relative wave height ''H'' / ''h'' times the relative wavelength ''λ'' / ''h'' squared. For long waves (''λ'' ≫ ''h'') with small Ursell number, ''U'' ≪ 32 π2 / 3 ≈ 100, linear wave theory is applicable. Otherwise (and most often) a non-linear theory for fairly long waves (''λ'' > 7 ''h'')Dingemans (1997), Part 2, pp. 473 & 516. – like the Korteweg–de Vries equation or Boussinesq equations – has to be used. The parameter, with different normalisation, was already introduced by
George Gabriel Stokes Sir George Gabriel Stokes, 1st Baronet, (; 13 August 1819 – 1 February 1903) was an Irish English physicist and mathematician. Born in County Sligo, Ireland, Stokes spent all of his career at the University of Cambridge, where he was the Luc ...
in his historical paper on surface gravity waves of 1847.
Reprinted in:


Notes


References

* In 2 parts, 967 pages. * 722 pages. {{NonDimFluMech Dimensionless numbers of fluid mechanics Fluid dynamics Water waves