Toni Dürnberger (11 September 1932 – 17 August 1992)[1] was an Austrian mountaineer and expedition leader.

In 1962 he led the Austro-German Expedition to Greenland from April to July where he climbed for the first time remote Mount Paatusoq, considered the highest unclimbed peak in southern Greenland.[2] The expedition climbed a total of 37 other peaks in the area,[3] including some near the Southern Sermilik fjord.[4]

Together with Austrian expedition member Ernst Herzinger and German members Stefan Rausch and Alois Häusl, Toni Dürnberger published articles of geographical interest on the little-known areas of Greenland he visited.[5]

Toni Dürnberger died in a fatal fall, together with his wife Elfi, while descending Khan Tengri after having successfully climbed the 7,010 m high peak located in the KyrgyzstanKazakhstanChina border on 17 August 1992.[6]


  • Dürnberger T. et al. Erlebnisbericht über die Österreichisch-Deutsche Grönlandexpedition 1962. Jahrbuch des Österreichischen Alpenvereins 1963. Vol 88.


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