Spencer (clothing)
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The spencer, dating from the 1790s, was originally a woolen outer
tail-coat A tailcoat is a knee-length coat characterised by a rear section of the skirt, known as the ''tails'', with the front of the skirt cut away. The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse riding in the Early Mode ...
with the tails omitted. It was worn as a short waist-length, double-breasted, man's
jacket A jacket is a garment for the upper body, usually extending below the hips. A jacket typically has sleeves, and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and less insulating than a coat, which ...
. It was originally named after
George Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer George John Spencer, 2nd Earl Spencer, (1 September 1758 – 10 November 1834), styled Viscount Althorp from 1765 to 1783, was a British Whig politician. He served as Home Secretary from 1806 to 1807 in the Ministry of All the Talents. He was ...
(1758–1834), who is reported to have had a tail-coat adapted after its tails were burned by coals from a fire. It was adopted as
mess dress Mess dress uniform is the most formal (or semi-formal, depending on the country) type of uniforms used by military personnel, police personnel, and other uniformed services members. It frequently consists of a mess jacket, trousers, white dr ...
by British military officers, leading to the name mess jacket. It was also soon adopted as a popular women's fashion on both sides of the Atlantic during the 1790–1820 Regency style period The spencer was worn as a cardigan, or as a short, fitted jacket cut to just above waist level, or, in
Empire An empire is a "political unit" made up of several territories and peoples, "usually created by conquest, and divided between a dominant center and subordinate peripheries". The center of the empire (sometimes referred to as the metropole) ex ...
style, to the bust line, and tailored on identical lines to the dress.Regency Fashion History. 1800s Costume History
by Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com
The use of the term spencer continued well into the 19th century to mean more generally any type of short jacket or coat. In Australia, New Zealand and South Africa the term is sometimes used to refer to thermal underwear.
Oxford English Dictionary The ''Oxford English Dictionary'' (''OED'') is the first and foundational historical dictionary of the English language, published by Oxford University Press (OUP). It traces the historical development of the English language, providing a c ...
, "Spencer n.2", 2006 online edition.
In current menswear, the term "spencer" is often synonymous with knitted vest or waistcoat.


Gallery

image:Fashion Plate (the Roxborough Jacket - A New Spencer Walking Dress with the Incognita Hat) LACMA M.86.266.62.jpg, "A New Spencer Walking Dress with the Incognita Hat" from the January 1807 ''
La Belle Assemblée ''La Belle Assemblée'' (in full ''La Belle Assemblée or, Bell's Court and Fashionable Magazine Addressed Particularly to the Ladies'') was a British women's magazine published from 1806 to 1837, founded by John Bell (1745–1831). Publishi ...
'' image:Fashion Plate (London Fashionable Walking Dresses) LACMA M.86.266.104.jpg, "London Fashionable Walking Dresses" from the July 1812 ''
Lady's Magazine London fashionable spencer ">Spencer_(clothing).html" ;"title="walking dresses, July 1812, including a Spencer (clothing)">spencer ''The Lady's Magazine; or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex, Appropriated Solely to Their Use and Amuseme ...
'' image:Fashion Plate (Promenade Dress) LACMA M.83.161.191.jpg, "Promenade Dress" from the October 1817 ''
Ackermann's Repository of Arts A fashion plate from the November 1811 issue ''Ackermann's Repository of Arts'' was an illustrated British periodical published from 1809 to 1829 by Rudolph Ackermann. Although commonly called ''Ackermann's Repository'', or, simply ''Ackermann's ...
'' image:Fashion Plate (Walking Dress) LACMA M.86.266.293.jpg, "Walking Dress" from the April 1820 ''
La Belle Assemblée ''La Belle Assemblée'' (in full ''La Belle Assemblée or, Bell's Court and Fashionable Magazine Addressed Particularly to the Ladies'') was a British women's magazine published from 1806 to 1837, founded by John Bell (1745–1831). Publishi ...
''


References


External links

* {{Clothing 1790s fashion 19th-century fashion Coats (clothing) History of clothing (Western fashion)