Shu Uemura
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() was a Japanese
make-up artist A make-up artist, also called a makeup artist, and often shortened to MUA, is an artist whose medium is the human body, applying makeup and Prosthetic makeup, prosthetics on others for theatre, television, film, fashion, magazines and other simil ...
and founder of the
cosmetics Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protec ...
line which bears his name.


Career

A native of
Tokyo Tokyo (; ja, 東京, , ), officially the Tokyo Metropolis ( ja, 東京都, label=none, ), is the capital and largest city of Japan. Formerly known as Edo, its metropolitan area () is the most populous in the world, with an estimated 37.46 ...
, Shu Uemura reportedly first became interested in
hairstyling A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human scalp. Sometimes, this could also mean an editing of facial or body hair. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming ...
and make up as a teenager while recovering from a severe illness which left him bedridden. He enrolled at the Tokyo Beauty Academy, becoming the only male student in a class of 130 pupils. His first experience in film make-up occurred during the filming of 1957's ''
Joe Butterfly ''Joe Butterfly'' is a 1957 American comedy film directed by Jesse Hibbs starring Audie Murphy, George Nader and Keenan Wynn, with Burgess Meredith in the title role as a Japanese man. The movie was action star Murphy's only outright comedy, and ...
'', which was partially shot in Japan. Uemura left Japan in the late 1950s to try to break into the film and television make-up business. Uemura's big break came on the set of the 1962 film, ''
My Geisha ''My Geisha'' is a 1962 American comedy film directed by Jack Cardiff, starring Shirley MacLaine, Yves Montand, Edward G. Robinson, and Bob Cummings and released by Paramount Pictures. Written by Norman Krasna, based on Krasna's story of the sam ...
''. The film's regular make up artist fell ill and Uemura, who was working as a
Hollywood Hollywood usually refers to: * Hollywood, Los Angeles, a neighborhood in California * Hollywood, a metonym for the cinema of the United States Hollywood may also refer to: Places United States * Hollywood District (disambiguation) * Hollywoo ...
beautician Cosmetology (from Greek , ''kosmētikos'', "beautifying"; and , ''-logia'') is the study and application of beauty treatment. Branches of specialty include hairstyling, skin care, cosmetics, manicures/ pedicures, non-permanent hair removal such a ...
at the time, was called in to fill in for the sick artist. Uemura gained critical acclaim for transforming actress
Shirley MacLaine Shirley MacLaine (born Shirley MacLean Beaty, April 24, 1934) is an American actress, author, and former dancer. Known for her portrayals of quirky, strong-willed and eccentric women, MacLaine has received numerous accolades over her seven-dec ...
into a Japanese woman. He received praise from both ''My Geisha's'' filmmakers and its cast, including MacLaine. He soon became one of Hollywood's favorite artists. He began working with well-known Hollywood personalities, usually as a make-up artist
apprentice Apprenticeship is a system for training a new generation of practitioners of a trade or profession with on-the-job training and often some accompanying study (classroom work and reading). Apprenticeships can also enable practitioners to gain a ...
, including
Edward G. Robinson Edward G. Robinson (born Emanuel Goldenberg; December 12, 1893January 26, 1973) was a Romanian-American actor of stage and screen, who was popular during the Hollywood's Golden Age. He appeared in 30 Broadway plays and more than 100 films duri ...
,
Frank Sinatra Francis Albert Sinatra (; December 12, 1915 – May 14, 1998) was an American singer and actor. Nicknamed the " Chairman of the Board" and later called "Ol' Blue Eyes", Sinatra was one of the most popular entertainers of the 1940s, 1950s, and ...
, and
Lucille Ball Lucille Désirée Ball (August 6, 1911 – April 26, 1989) was an American actress, comedienne and producer. She was nominated for 13 Primetime Emmy Awards, winning five times, and was the recipient of several other accolades, such as the Gold ...
. Among his notable early work was on
Frank Sinatra Francis Albert Sinatra (; December 12, 1915 – May 14, 1998) was an American singer and actor. Nicknamed the " Chairman of the Board" and later called "Ol' Blue Eyes", Sinatra was one of the most popular entertainers of the 1940s, 1950s, and ...
's 1965 film, '' None but the Brave''. Uemura developed and launched his first cosmetics product in 1960. His product was a cleansing oil, which left the skin cleaner than
soap Soap is a salt of a fatty acid used in a variety of cleansing and lubricating products. In a domestic setting, soaps are surfactants usually used for washing, bathing, and other types of housekeeping. In industrial settings, soaps are us ...
and also acted as a
moisturizer A moisturizer, or emollient, is a cosmetic preparation used for protecting, moisturizing, and lubricating the skin. These functions are normally performed by sebum produced by healthy skin. The word "emollient" is derived from the Latin verb ''m ...
. His cleansing oil remains popular in Japan today. Uemura developed a make-up
philosophy Philosophy (from , ) is the systematized study of general and fundamental questions, such as those about existence, reason, knowledge, values, mind, and language. Such questions are often posed as problems to be studied or resolved. ...
that the health of his customers' skin should be the most important aspect of cosmetics. He also believed in enhancing a subject's natural
beauty Beauty is commonly described as a feature of objects that makes these objects pleasurable to perceive. Such objects include landscapes, sunsets, humans and works of art. Beauty, together with art and taste, is the main subject of aesthetics, o ...
, not artificially creating it using cosmetic products. Uemura returned to Japan in 1964 and opened the Shu Uemura makeup school, which taught make-up techniques which he learned in Hollywood. He founded a cosmetics company called Japan Makeup in 1967 and opened its first boutique store in Tokyo's trendy Omotesando district. He officially changed the name of his company to Shu Uemura Cosmetics in 1983. Uemura's company was able to take advantage of Japan's booming economy and taste for Western products during the 1980s. In the process, Shu Uemura Cosmetics became a major force in the domestic Japanese and international beauty market. Shu Uemura sold his controlling interest in his company to French cosmetics maker
L'Oréal L'Oréal S.A. () is a French personal care company headquartered in Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine with a registered office in Paris. It is the world's largest cosmetics company and has developed activities in the field concentrating on hair color, ...
in 2004 for an undisclosed amount of money. However, he remained the creative force behind Shu Uemura Cosmetics after the sale. It was estimated that as of early 2008, Shu Uemura Cosmetics made approximately $100 million a year in global sales at its stores worldwide. At the time of his death, the company had stores in Paris, New York City, London and
Hong Kong Hong Kong ( (US) or (UK); , ), officially the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region of the People's Republic of China (abbr. Hong Kong SAR or HKSAR), is a List of cities in China, city and Special administrative regions of China, special ...
, as well as outlets throughout Japan. The company's product line has expanded over the years to include hair and lifestyle products,
perfume Perfume (, ; french: parfum) is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent ...
, fake
eyelashes An eyelash (also called lash) (Latin: ''Cilia'') is one of the hairs that grows at the edge of the eyelids. It grows in one layer on the edge of the upper and lower eyelids. Eyelashes protect the eye from debris, dust, and small particles and p ...
and handmade makeup brushes. In the process, the Uemura's company became a cultural force in some circles. Shu Uemura's
eyelash curler An eyelash curler is a hand-operated mechanical device for curling eyelashes for cosmetic purposes. Usually only the upper eyelashes are curled. History There were different patents of this invention between 1923 and 1940. The first known patent ...
s were even mentioned in the 2006 film, '' The Devil Wears Prada''. Uemura personally demonstrated his make-up techniques to the public twice a year. He used these demonstrations to introduce his customers to his last Mode Makeup lines. These demonstrations usually took place in Tokyo,
London London is the capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary dow ...
or
New York City New York, often called New York City or NYC, is the List of United States cities by population, most populous city in the United States. With a 2020 population of 8,804,190 distributed over , New York City is also the L ...
.


Death

Shu Uemura died of
pneumonia Pneumonia is an inflammatory condition of the lung primarily affecting the small air sacs known as alveoli. Symptoms typically include some combination of productive or dry cough, chest pain, fever, and difficulty breathing. The severit ...
in Tokyo on December 29, 2007. He was 79 years old and was survived by his wife and son, Hiroshi who founded his own cosmetics line, UTOWA, in 2002. Uemura's funeral was held on January 4, 2008.


References


External links


Shu Uemura Art of Beauty (U.S. Site) Shu Uemura Art of Hair (U.S. Site)
*
Vogue.com: Shu Uemura RememberedShu Uemura
at WN
AFP: Japanese makeup guru Shu Uemura dies: spokeswoman
{{DEFAULTSORT:Uemura, Shu 1928 births 2007 deaths Beauticians Businesspeople from Tokyo Cosmetics people Deaths from pneumonia in Japan Japanese cosmetics businesspeople Japanese make-up artists L'Oréal brands Japanese brands