Peak Ozodi (russian: Пик Озоди), (until 2020 Korzhenevskoi Peak, russian: Пик Корженевской) is the third highest peak in the Pamir Mountains of

Tajikistan Tajikistan (, ; tg, Тоҷикистон, Tojikiston; russian: Таджикистан, Tadzhikistan), officially the Republic of Tajikistan ( tg, Ҷумҳурии Тоҷикистон, Jumhurii Tojikiston), is a landlocked country in Centr ...

. It is one of the five " Snow Leopard Peaks" in the territory of the former

Soviet Union The Soviet Union,. officially the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. (USSR),. was a List of former transcontinental countries#Since 1700, transcontinental country that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991. A flagship communist state, ...

. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russian geographer Nikolai L. Korzhenevskiy, who discovered the peak in August 1910. Due to

transliteration Transliteration is a type of conversion of a text from one script to another that involves swapping letters (thus ''trans-'' + '' liter-'') in predictable ways, such as Greek → , Cyrillic → , Greek → the digraph , Armenian → or L ...

and declension issues the peak's name is rendered in many different ways, including ''Korzhenevski,'' ''Korzhenevskoi'', and ''Korzhenievsky''. __NOTOC__

Location

Peak Korzhenevskaya
lies about north of Ismoil Somoni Peak (formerly Communism Peak), the highest point of the Pamirs. It forms the end of the northwest fork of the Academy of Sciences Range, the north–south trending subrange which forms the core of the Pamirs. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the

Fortambek Glacier Fortambek Glacier is a glacier located in the Sangvor District of Tajikistan Tajikistan (, ; tg, Тоҷикистон, Tojikiston; russian: Таджикистан, Tadzhikistan), officially the Republic of Tajikistan ( tg, Ҷумҳури� ...

. While most of the Academy of Sciences Range is in

Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province Gorno-Badakhshan, officially the Badakhshan Mountainous Autonomous Region,, abbr. / is an autonomous region in eastern Tajikistan, in the Pamir Mountains. It makes up nearly forty-five percent of the country's land area, but only two percen ...

(

GBAO Gorno-Badakhshan, officially the Badakhshan Mountainous Autonomous Region,, abbr. / is an autonomous region in eastern Tajikistan, in the Pamir Mountains. It makes up nearly forty-five percent of the country's land area, but only two perc ...

), Korzhenevskoi is located a little to the west of the GBAO line, in Jirgatol district (

Region of Republican Subordination tg, Ноҳияҳои тобеи ҷумҳурӣ , native_name_lang = , other_name = ناحیه های تابع جمهوری , settlement_type = Region , image_skyline = , ...

Notable features

Korzhenevskoi Peak is one of the five seven-thousanders of the former Soviet Union (this counts

Khan Tengri Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan tripoint, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial icecap rises to . For this reason, in mountaineering c ...

, which is more often given as 6,995 m) that were required for a climber to be awarded the

Snow Leopard award The Snow Leopard award () was a Soviet mountaineering award, given to highly skilled mountain climbers. It is still recognized in the Commonwealth of Independent States. To receive this award, a climber was required to summit all five peaks withi ...

, the highest honor given to Soviet mountaineers. It is usually said to be the second easiest of these peaks to climb, after

Lenin Peak Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak ( ky, Ленин Чокусу, ''Lenin Choqusu'', لەنىن چوقۇسۇ; russian: Пик Ленина, ''Pik Lenina''; tg, қуллаи Ленин , ''qulla‘i Lenin/qullaji Lenin'', renamed қулла� ...

. However, it is not a small mountain; its rise above local terrain rivals that of Ismoil Somoni Peak since it is closer to the deep valley of the Muksu River.

Climbing history

In 1937 D. Gushchin led an attempt on the peak which reached the lower summit (6,910 m). Korzhenevskoi Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a party led by A. Ugarov; the summit team comprised Ugarov, B. Dimitriev, A. Goziev, A. Kovyrkov, L. Krasavin, E. Ryspajev, R. Sielidzanov, and P. Skorobogatov. They approached via the Fortambek Glacier, to the Korzhenevsky glacier, and thence to the north ridge. Partly since it is required for the

, Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed many times; it is the second most frequented major peak in the Pamirs, after

. A base camp on the moraine of the Moskvin Glacier, and helicopter access, make this possible. Korzhenevskoi Peak has been climbed from almost every direction, including a first winter ascent in 1987 by Anatoly Nosov; most of these ascents were by Russians. The most common current route on the mountain ascends from the south and attains the summit ridge from the west side.

References

Sources

* Jill Neate, ''High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks'', * Robin Collomb and Andrew Wielochowski, ''Pamir-Trans Alai Mountains'', 1:200,000 scale map and guide, West Col Productions.
DEM files
(Corrected versions of SRTM data) * Vladimir Shataev,

' {{Authority control Ozodi Seven-thousanders of the Pamir