Paul Masson
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Paul Masson (1859 – October 22, 1940) was an early pioneer of
California California is a state in the Western United States, located along the Pacific Coast. With nearly 39.2million residents across a total area of approximately , it is the most populous U.S. state and the 3rd largest by area. It is also the m ...
viticulture Viticulture (from the Latin word for '' vine'') or winegrowing (wine growing) is the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. It is a branch of the science of horticulture. While the native territory of '' Vitis vinifera'', the common grape vine, ...
known for his brand of Californian
sparkling wine Sparkling wine is a wine with significant levels of carbon dioxide in it, making it fizzy. While the phrase commonly refers to champagne, European Union countries legally reserve that term for products exclusively produced in the Champagne regi ...
.


Biography

Masson emigrated from the Burgundy region of
France France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Its metropolitan area ...
in 1878 (at the age of 19) to
California California is a state in the Western United States, located along the Pacific Coast. With nearly 39.2million residents across a total area of approximately , it is the most populous U.S. state and the 3rd largest by area. It is also the m ...
,
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territori ...
, where he met
Charles Lefranc Charles is a masculine given name predominantly found in English and French speaking countries. It is from the French form ''Charles'' of the Proto-Germanic name (in runic alphabet) or ''*karilaz'' (in Latin alphabet), whose meaning was "f ...
(owner of the '' Almaden Vineyard and Wine Company)'', one of a number of French immigrants who had expanded the
viticulture Viticulture (from the Latin word for '' vine'') or winegrowing (wine growing) is the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. It is a branch of the science of horticulture. While the native territory of '' Vitis vinifera'', the common grape vine, ...
introduced into the
Santa Clara Valley The Santa Clara Valley is a geologic trough in Northern California that extends 90 miles (145 km) south–southeast from San Francisco to Hollister. The longitudinal valley is bordered on the west by the Santa Cruz Mountains and on the east ...
by the
Catholic mission Missionary work of the Catholic Church has often been undertaken outside the geographically defined parishes and dioceses by religious orders who have people and material resources to spare, and some of which specialized in missions. Eventually, p ...
fathers. Masson returned to France in 1880 to finish school at The Sorbonne. After college, he returned to San Jose, California due to the depression in the French wine industry caused by the Phylloxera plague and became the winemaker at Almaden. After the death of Lefranc, Masson purchased 573 acres in Saratoga, California, which he named ''La Cresta''. He set about to plant 60 acres, mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with cuttings from Burgundy and re-named the new winery the Paul Masson Champagne Company, now known as The Mountain Winery. According to the Paul Masson company web site, in 1892 Masson's first
sparkling wine Sparkling wine is a wine with significant levels of carbon dioxide in it, making it fizzy. While the phrase commonly refers to champagne, European Union countries legally reserve that term for products exclusively produced in the Champagne regi ...
under the name "
champagne Champagne (, ) is a sparkling wine originated and produced in the Champagne wine region of France under the rules of the appellation, that demand specific vineyard practices, sourcing of grapes exclusively from designated places within it, ...
" was introduced at Almaden, and Masson eventually became known as the "Champagne King of California" after winning at the Paris Expo in 1900. He was appointed to California's Board of State Viticultural Commissioners on August 30, 1913. Masson died at his home in San Jose on October 22, 1940, and is buried at
Oak Hill Memorial Park Oak Hill Memorial Park is a cemetery in San Jose, California. Founded in 1847, it is the oldest and largest secular cemetery in California. Oak Hill is the northernmost hill in the San Juan Bautista Hills of South San Jose. History The cemet ...
.


Winery

Masson shifted part of his production to the Santa Cruz Mountains above
Saratoga, California Saratoga is a city in Santa Clara County, California. Located in Silicon Valley, in the southern Bay Area, its population was 31,051 at the 2020 census. Saratoga is an affluent residential community, known for its wineries, restaurants, and attra ...
and built his "chateau" on a knob overlooking the
Santa Clara Valley The Santa Clara Valley is a geologic trough in Northern California that extends 90 miles (145 km) south–southeast from San Francisco to Hollister. The longitudinal valley is bordered on the west by the Santa Cruz Mountains and on the east ...
in 1905. Now known as "The Mountain Winery", the Paul Masson Mountain Winery is on the
National Park Service The National Park Service (NPS) is an agency of the United States federal government within the U.S. Department of the Interior that manages all national parks, most national monuments, and other natural, historical, and recreational propert ...
's
National Register of Historic Places The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the United States federal government's official list of districts, sites, buildings, structures and objects deemed worthy of preservation for their historical significance or "great artistic ...
, though it ceased making wines in 1952. Instead, it serves as a conferencing and events venue - various events are held at the winery, such as concert series, weddings, and other special events. A chess tournament was held there annually in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Around 2000, the then-current owners of the site hired winemaker Jeffrey Patterson to restart winemaking on site. The vineyards were reestablished at the Mountain Winery in 2004.


Advertising

The Paul Masson brand is best remembered for its 1978–1981 marketing association with actor-director
Orson Welles George Orson Welles (May 6, 1915 – October 10, 1985) was an American actor, director, producer, and screenwriter, known for his innovative work in film, radio and theatre. He is considered to be among the greatest and most influential f ...
, who promised for Masson: "We will sell no wine before its time." A widely circulated and much-parodied outtake for one commercial from the campaign features Welles attempting to deliver his lines while severely inebriated. Welles was eventually fired as a spokesman for the brand in 1981, after answering a question about Paul Masson on a TV chat show, saying that he was now on a diet and so no longer drank wine; he was (briefly) replaced as spokesman by
John Gielgud Sir Arthur John Gielgud, (; 14 April 1904 – 21 May 2000) was an English actor and theatre director whose career spanned eight decades. With Ralph Richardson and Laurence Olivier, he was one of the trinity of actors who dominated the Brit ...
. Despite the ads' success at the time, the Paul Masson brand has suffered from a long-term image problem, particularly since its founder's death in 1940, in being synonymous with low-end wines. As ''
The New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid d ...
'' observed in 1990: "While many consumers know them - who can forget Orson Welles's breathy incantation of 'We will sell no wine before its time' for Masson - they lack cachet."


Paul Masson and NASA

In the 1970s,
NASA The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA ) is an independent agencies of the United States government, independent agency of the US federal government responsible for the civil List of government space agencies, space program ...
bought Masson Rare Cream Sherry for a
Skylab Skylab was the first United States space station, launched by NASA, occupied for about 24 weeks between May 1973 and February 1974. It was operated by three separate three-astronaut crews: Skylab 2, Skylab 3, and Skylab 4. Major operations ...
mission and packaged some for testing on a "zero-G" aircraft. Unfortunately, the smell quickly permeated the cabin making astronauts physically sick, and public pressure over taking alcohol into space led NASA to abandon their plans.


Ownership of Paul Masson wines


Martin Ray (1936–42)

After the death of his wife, Louise Lefranc, in 1936, Masson placed the winery on the market. Mentored by Paul Masson, California wine pioneer Martin Ray purchased the winery and vineyards. However, two years after Masson's own death in 1940, Ray sold the winery, using the proceeds to buy land on the hilltop across from the old Paul Masson vineyards in Saratoga, where he used Burgundian cuttings of Pinot noir and Chardonnay from the Masson estate to craft a single varietal, region-specific wine from 1943 through 1972, in what is now known as Mount Eden Vineyards.


Seagram Company (1942–87)

Six years after buying the Paul Masson winery and brand, Martin Ray sold them to the Canadian-based Seagram Company, Ltd, the global wine and spirits conglomerate, which (along with minority share owners) owned the brand for the next 45 years, although as early as 1952 they closed Masson's Saratoga winery as a working wine estate. It was Seagram who, worried by the brand's sagging sales in the 1970s, brought in first Orson Welles (1978–81) and then
John Gielgud Sir Arthur John Gielgud, (; 14 April 1904 – 21 May 2000) was an English actor and theatre director whose career spanned eight decades. With Ralph Richardson and Laurence Olivier, he was one of the trinity of actors who dominated the Brit ...
(1982–85) as advertising spokespersons for the wines. In the 1980s, Seagram also acquired the Taylor California Cellars brand (and production facilities) from
Coca-Cola Coca-Cola, or Coke, is a carbonated soft drink manufactured by the Coca-Cola Company. Originally marketed as a temperance drink and intended as a patent medicine, it was invented in the late 19th century by John Stith Pemberton in Atlant ...
, based on the premise promoted by Seagram's strategic planning head, Mary Cunningham, that the only way to succeed in the wine business was to approach Gallo's massive sales volume. Over the next twenty years, the American wine industry would dramatically segment itself with, essentially, all the large volume brands falling by the wayside. Internal competition and resulting cannibalization dramatically reduced the combined sales of Paul Masson and Taylor (as it did with Almaden and Inglenook, also owned by a single parent company).


Vintners International (1987–93)

The above changes resulted in the Paul Masson brand being sold to Vintners International in 1987, although Vintners went bankrupt six years later.


Centera (1993–2021); renamed Constellation Brands from 2000

Vintners was in turn purchased by the Centera Wine Company (formerly "Canandaigua") of New York in 1993, as part of Vintner's bankruptcy proceedings. Canandaigua was then renamed
Constellation Brands Constellation Brands, Inc., a Fortune 500 company, is an American producer and marketer of beer, wine, and spirits. Constellation is the largest beer import company in the US, measured by sales, and has the third-largest market share (7.4 percen ...
in 2000. Constellation Brands produced two main lines with the label: Paul Masson brandies, and Paul Masson wines. In 2008, the Paul Masson wine line was sold by Constellation Brands, along with the Paul Masson winery, to the Wine Group. However, Constellation continued to produce Paul Masson brandies until 2021. In 2019, Constellation Brands announced that it was engaging in a major restructuring which involved focussing on “power brands”, which it defined as commanding a retail price of over $11 a bottle. This meant discontinuing or selling off 40% of their production, including the low-cost Paul Masson brandies produced in New York. Although a buyer was found, the Federal Trade Commission did not approve the sale until 2021.


Divestment of the wines and winery to Wine Group LLC (2008–18)

In a $134 million deal in 2008, Wine Group LLC of San Francisco purchased the Paul Masson winery, which had ceased making wine in 1952, and now serves as a conferencing and events center. Wine Group LLC subsequently removed the Paul Masson name and renamed it " The Mountain Winery".Wine Group buys Almaden, Inglenook brands, Paul Masson winery, for $134M
San Francisco Business Times
As part of the deal, Wine Group LLC also purchased two California wine brands from Constellation Brands, including the Paul Masson table wine range, consisting of three types of bottle sold - white, red, and rosé, made from grapes grown elsewhere in California. The wines were sold in the company's distinctive jam-jar top "carafe" bottles. Around 2018, the company quietly discontinued the sale of Paul Masson wines.


Sale of the brandies to E. & J. Gallo (2021–present)

In 2019,
E & J Gallo Winery E & J Gallo Winery is a winery and distributor headquartered in Modesto, California. It was founded in 1933 by Ernest Gallo and Julio Gallo, and is the largest exporter of California wines. E & J Gallo Winery is the largest family-owned wi ...
of Modesto, California began negotiations for the acquisition of the Paul Masson brandies from Constellation Brands. In 2021, it was announced that the Federal Trade Commission had approved the sale, allowing production of the brandies to return to California after 28 years of being made in New York. No one presently makes any Paul Masson wines, as the rights remain with the Wine Group LLC, which discontinued production in 2018.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Masson, Paul 1859 births 1940 deaths American viticulturists Businesspeople from the San Francisco Bay Area French viticulturists