Ozwald Boateng
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Ozwald Boateng, OBE () (born 28 February 1967) is a British fashion designer, best known for his trademark twist on classic
tailoring A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of ...
and
bespoke The word ''bespoke'' () has evolved from a verb meaning 'to speak for something', to its contemporary usage as an adjective. Originally, the adjective ''bespoke'' described tailor-made suits and shoes. Later, it described anything commissioned t ...
styles.


Early life

Boateng was born in the Muswell Hill district of
London London is the capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary dow ...
on 28 February 1967, the son of Ghanaian immigrants. He was inspired by the immaculate suits his father wore, and received his first suit (a double-breasted outfit in purple mohair) from his mother at the age of eight. When he was 14, he found a summer job sewing linings into suits. While studying
computer science Computer science is the study of computation, automation, and information. Computer science spans theoretical disciplines (such as algorithms, theory of computation, information theory, and automation) to Applied science, practical discipli ...
at Southgate College at the age of 16, he was introduced to cutting and designing by his girlfriend. Using his mother's old sewing machine, he started designing and selling to his fellow students, and switched to graduate in fashion and design. He helped a friend to make clothes for a fashion show; after receiving praise for his work, he sold his first collection to a menswear shop in
Covent Garden Covent Garden is a district in London, on the eastern fringes of the West End, between St Martin's Lane and Drury Lane. It is associated with the former fruit-and-vegetable market in the central square, now a popular shopping and tourist si ...
. Some of his first pieces were also sold in Academy on Newburgh Street in 1987. This enabled him to open his first studio in Portobello Road in 1991. In 1994, he staged his first catwalk presentation during Paris Fashion Week, becoming the first tailor to stage a catwalk show in Paris.


Career

Mentored by Tommy Nutter, the success of the Paris show in 1994 enabled Boateng to open his boutique on Vigo Street, the south end of Savile Row, in 1995. Boateng's contemporary approach to menswear design helped to forge a new appreciation for Savile Row, and draw in a younger demographic. Boateng's moved fully into Savile Row in June 2002. In 2005, Boateng was honoured with a major 20-year retrospective event at the
Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts and design, housing a permanent collection of over 2.27 million objects. It was founded in 1852 and nam ...
. In 2008, Boateng's new flagship store and headquarters are launched at No. 30 Savile Row, on the corner of Savile Row and Clifford Street. The largest store on this
Mayfair Mayfair is an affluent area in the West End of London towards the eastern edge of Hyde Park, in the City of Westminster, between Oxford Street, Regent Street, Piccadilly and Park Lane. It is one of the most expensive districts in the world ...
street, as of November 2019, its signs and interiors were co-designed with British-Ghanaian Architect David Adjaye. As of November 2019 it remains the only Black-owned store on Savile Row, and has since 2010 been managed by Moroccan-born
Bespoke The word ''bespoke'' () has evolved from a verb meaning 'to speak for something', to its contemporary usage as an adjective. Originally, the adjective ''bespoke'' described tailor-made suits and shoes. Later, it described anything commissioned t ...
manager,
Khalid Fakhour Khalid (variants include Khaled and Kalid; Arabic: خالد) is a popular Arabic male given name meaning "eternal, everlasting, immortal", and it also appears as a surname.fragrance An aroma compound, also known as an odorant, aroma, fragrance or flavoring, is a chemical compound that has a smell or odor. For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficiently v ...
s for women. Bespoke comprises two different vials of fragrance within an elongated, jewel-like bottle. In 2007, Boateng merged the corporate headquarters of his company with his redesigned flagship store on Savile Row. Today, in addition to a bespoke service, Boateng also produces two ready-to-wear collections a year, produced at the former
Chester Barrie Chester Barrie was a 'semi-bespoke' gentleman's tailor last located at No. 19 Savile Row, London. Founded in 1935 by Simon Ackerman, a tailor born in Russia who immigrated to the United States, and presently owned by Prominent Europe. The ...
factory in
Crewe Crewe () is a railway town and civil parish in the unitary authority of Cheshire East in Cheshire, England. The Crewe built-up area had a total population of 75,556 in 2011, which also covers parts of the adjacent civil parishes of Willaston ...
, Cheshire.


Collaborations

LVMH President Bernard Arnault appointed Boateng Creative Director of Menswear at French Fashion house Givenchy. In a 2019 interview with
Icon Mann An icon () is a religious work of art, most commonly a painting, in the cultures of the Eastern Orthodox, Oriental Orthodox, and Catholic churches. They are not simply artworks; "an icon is a sacred image used in religious devotion". The most ...
," Boateng reveals that back then his "challenge ad beento reinvent the French gentleman," and that "he adsucceeded in doing so." His first collection was shown in July 2004 in Paris, at Hotel de Ville. Boateng parted with Givenchy after the Spring 2007 collection. In 2004, Coutts approached Boateng to design a new Super-Premium
credit card A credit card is a payment card issued to users (cardholders) to enable the cardholder to pay a merchant for goods and services based on the cardholder's accrued debt (i.e., promise to the card issuer to pay them for the amounts plus the ...
. The Coutts "World Credit Card" appears in Boateng's trademark imperial purple, designed to communicate a new modernity and supreme elegance. In 2004, Boateng designed new amenity kits for Virgin Atlantic's Upper Class. Critically claimed to be the most stylish first-class kits available to travellers on any airline, the design increased pick rate fivefold. Boateng was commissioned by
John Agyekum Kufuor John Kofi Agyekum Kufuor (born 8 December 1938) is a Ghanaian politician who served as the President of Ghana from 7 January 2001 to 7 January 2009. He was also Chairperson of the African Union from 2007 to 2008. Kufuor's career has been spe ...
, President of the Republic of Ghana, to design and orchestrate a show at the ninth annual African Union summit in 2007. Held in
Accra Accra (; tw, Nkran; dag, Ankara; gaa, Ga or ''Gaga'') is the capital and largest city of Ghana, located on the southern coast at the Gulf of Guinea, which is part of the Atlantic Ocean. As of 2021 census, the Accra Metropolitan District, , ...
, it coincided with 200 years since the cessation of the transatlantic slave trade, and 50 years of independence for Ghana. In September 2018
British Airways British Airways (BA) is the flag carrier airline of the United Kingdom. It is headquartered in London, England, near its main hub at Heathrow Airport. The airline is the second largest UK-based carrier, based on fleet size and passengers ...
confirmed that Boateng had been chosen as the designer for its new uniform, to be launched in 2019 as part of the organisation's centenary celebrations. This appointment was a matter of controversy amongst customers of the airline and staff alike, who had come to believe that the new uniform would be designed in partnership with the British brand Burberry.


Film and television

Boateng has designed
bespoke The word ''bespoke'' () has evolved from a verb meaning 'to speak for something', to its contemporary usage as an adjective. Originally, the adjective ''bespoke'' described tailor-made suits and shoes. Later, it described anything commissioned t ...
costumes for films and TV shows including '' Mo' Better Blues'', ''
Hannibal Hannibal (; xpu, 𐤇𐤍𐤁𐤏𐤋, ''Ḥannibaʿl''; 247 – between 183 and 181 BC) was a Carthaginian general and statesman who commanded the forces of Carthage in their battle against the Roman Republic during the Second Pu ...
'', '' Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels'', '' Tomorrow Never Dies'', '' Sex and the City'', ''
Ugly Betty ''Ugly Betty'' is an American comedy-drama television series developed by Silvio Horta, which was originally broadcast on ABC. It premiered on September 28, 2006, and ended on April 14, 2010. The series is based on Fernando Gaitán's Colombi ...
'', '' Eastern Promises'', '' Gangster Number One'', '' Alfie'', '' Assault on Precinct 13'', '' The Matrix'', ''
Miami Vice ''Miami Vice'' is an American crime drama television series created by Anthony Yerkovich and produced by Michael Mann (director), Michael Mann for NBC. The series stars Don Johnson as James "Sonny" Crockett and Philip Michael Thomas as Ricardo ...
'', '' Oceans 13'', and '' Rush Hour 3''. Director Varon Bonicos filmed Boateng between 1998 and 2010 for a fly-on-the-wall feature documentary called ''A Man's Story'', released in March 2012. On 22 June 2006, the Sundance Channel and Reveille LLC released an eight-part real life documentary series called ''House of Boateng'', tracking the journey of Boateng as he embarks on the expansion of his brand in the United States. The series was produced by
Robert Redford Charles Robert Redford Jr. (born August 18, 1936) is an American actor and filmmaker. He is the recipient of various accolades, including an Academy Award from four nominations, a British Academy Film Award, two Golden Globe Awards, the Cec ...
and
Ben Silverman Benjamin Noah Silverman (born August 15, 1970) is an American media executive. He is the co-CEO and chairman of the entertainment production company Propagate. From 2007–2009, Silverman served as co-chairman of NBC Entertainment and Universa ...
. As well as design, Boateng has created and directed film projects of his own. * 1994: Debut show – his first venture into film alongside his Paris Catwalk show, a short movie dramatising the events and struggles leading up to the show. * 2004: Arizona – First directorial debut, a short film entitled ''Catching Dreams'', based in the Grand Canyon area. Shown at his debut show in Milan. * 2004: Florence – A film released at the ''Pitti Imagine'' in Florence, chronicling the past 10 years of his life. * 2004: Givenchy – a Japanese style manga style animation at his debut show as Creative Director for Givenchy. * 2005: China – The short movie ''No Boundaries'' is filmed in the Guilin District of China. Shown at second show for Givenchy. It premieres at the Tremblant Film Festival in 2006, Canada, and comes second in the Short Film category. * 2009: Why Style Matters – In collaboration with BBC4, a documentary on the significance of Savile Row in the 21st century and the renewed interest in Tailoring. Features Giorgio Armani. * 2013: Our Future Made in Africa


Personal life

Boateng was once married to a woman named Pascale, though they divorced at an unknown date. He later married Azerbaijani fashion model Gyunel Taylor. The couple had two children, Emilia and Oscar, before divorcing in 2009. Emilia is also a model. Boateng has said that his mantra is, "If you flow with history and don't fight with it, eventually it becomes a dance."


Charity

In 2008, Boateng was appointed to the REACH committee, as part of an independent panel to identify and recruit national role models who work to help raise aspirations of black boys.A new generation of black role models – Hazel Blears responds to the Reach Report
Boateng, alongside
Kola Aluko Kola Aluko (born 20 October 1969, in Lagos, Nigeria) is a Nigerian energy business magnate with interests in African infrastructure development and aviation. Based in Nigeria, Aluko is the Co-Chief Officer and an Executive Director of Atlantic E ...
in partnership with Atlantic Energy, founded Made in Africa Foundation, a UK
non-profit organisation A nonprofit organization (NPO) or non-profit organisation, also known as a non-business entity, not-for-profit organization, or nonprofit institution, is a legal entity organized and operated for a collective, public or social benefit, in co ...
established to assist the development of the African continent, by providing first-stage funding for feasibility studies and business development of large-scale infrastructure projects based in the region. The foundation was established on the basis of “reframing the dialogue and perception of Africa”, with the principals signing an agreement with the
African Development Bank The African Development Bank Group (AfDB) or (BAD) is a multilateral development finance institution headquartered in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, since September 2014. The AfDB is a financial provider to African governments and private companies ...
." Featured as a 2018 special guest panelist at the London Business School ''African summit'', addressing business on the continent, Boateng took part initialing a massive art collaboration ''
Remember To Rise ''Remember To Rise'' ( ar, كن يقضا أحلام سوداء) subtitled ''Black's Dream'' is a derivative work of the ''Iyasile Naa'', a massive art collaboration. Observing innovation in developing countries, technologist of '' Ijebu'' desce ...
''.


References


External links

* * * :British fashion designers {{DEFAULTSORT:Boateng, Ozwald 1960 births Living people People from Muswell Hill English people of Ghanaian descent English fashion designers English film directors High fashion brands British tailors Menswear designers Officers of the Order of the British Empire Black British fashion people