Ogulin
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Ogulin () is a town in north-western
Croatia , image_flag = Flag of Croatia.svg , image_coat = Coat of arms of Croatia.svg , anthem = " Lijepa naša domovino"("Our Beautiful Homeland") , image_map = , map_caption = , capi ...
, in
Karlovac County Karlovac County ( hr, Karlovačka županija) is a county in central Croatia, with the administrative center in Karlovac. The city of Karlovac is a fort from the times of the Military Frontier. It was built as a six-side star fort in the 16th c ...
. It has a population of 7,389 (2021) (it was 8,216 in 2011), and a total municipal population of 12,251 (2021). Ogulin is known for its historic stone castle, known as Kula, and the nearby mountain of Klek.


Toponymy

There are several proposed etymologies for the name of Ogulin. Firstly that the surrounding woods needed to be cleared for a better defence of the town, so Ogulin received its name because of the resulting bare area ("ogolio" in Croatian) around it. There were a lot of lime-trees along the road from Ogulin towards Oštarije, and the people used to peel the bark, in order to get bass. It is suggested that Ogulin got its name from the verb to peel ("guliti" in Croatian). Neither proposal is historically confirmed.


History

Ogulin's history dates back to the fifteenth century, when it struggled against the
Ottoman Turks The Ottoman Turks ( tr, Osmanlı Türkleri), were the Turkic founding and sociopolitically the most dominant ethnic group of the Ottoman Empire ( 1299/1302–1922). Reliable information about the early history of Ottoman Turks remains scarce, ...
. The exact timing of the building of the Ogulin tower has not been established. However, a document issued by Bernardin Frankopan in his town of
Modruš Modruš is a village, former bishopric and current Latin Catholic titular see in the mountainous part of Croatia, located south of its municipality's seat Josipdol (Karlovac County), on the easternmost slopes of Velika Kapela mountain, in nort ...
at around 1500 AD marked off the boundaries of new castle between Modruš and Vitunj, and this is, at the same time, the first historical mention of Ogulin. Ogulin is known for the legend of Đula (also Zuleika or Zula) who threw herself into the abyss of the River Dobra because of an unhappy love affair. In the sixteenth century, it became a military stronghold against the Ottomans. For a brief time, between 1809 and 1813, Ogulin was a part of the
Illyrian Provinces The Illyrian Provinces sl, Ilirske province hr, Ilirske provincije sr, Илирске провинције it, Province illirichegerman: Illyrische Provinzen, group=note were an autonomous province of France during the First French Empire that e ...
. Until 1918, Ogulin was part of the
Austrian monarchy The Habsburg monarchy (german: Habsburgermonarchie, ), also known as the Danubian monarchy (german: Donaumonarchie, ), or Habsburg Empire (german: Habsburgerreich, ), was the collection of empires, kingdoms, duchies, counties and other polities ...
(
Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia The Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia ( hr, Kraljevina Hrvatska i Slavonija; hu, Horvát-Szlavónország or ; de-AT, Königreich Kroatien und Slawonien) was a nominally autonomous kingdom and constitutionally defined separate political nation with ...
, Modruš-Rijeka County, after the
compromise of 1867 The Austro-Hungarian Compromise of 1867 (german: Ausgleich, hu, Kiegyezés) established the dual monarchy of Austria-Hungary. The Compromise only partially re-established the former pre-1848 sovereignty and status of the Kingdom of Hungary ...
), in the Croatian Military Frontier. It was administered by the ''Oguliner Grenz-Infanterie-Regiment N°III'' before 1881.


Geography

The town of Ogulin is situated in the very centre of mainland Croatia, between
Zagreb Zagreb ( , , , ) is the capital (political), capital and List of cities and towns in Croatia#List of cities and towns, largest city of Croatia. It is in the Northern Croatia, northwest of the country, along the Sava river, at the southern slop ...
and
Rijeka Rijeka ( , , ; also known as Fiume hu, Fiume, it, Fiume ; local Chakavian: ''Reka''; german: Sankt Veit am Flaum; sl, Reka) is the principal seaport and the third-largest city in Croatia (after Zagreb and Split). It is located in Prim ...
. It was founded in a large valley formed by two rivers: the Dobra and Zagorska Mrežnica. The administrative constitution of the town of Ogulin covers the area of 543.32 km2, and has about 14,000 inhabitants according to 2011 census. This is a kind of transitional micro-region neighbouring the larger regions of Croatia - Gorski Kotar,
Lika Lika () is a traditional region of Croatia proper, roughly bound by the Velebit mountain from the southwest and the Plješevica mountain from the northeast. On the north-west end Lika is bounded by Ogulin-Plaški basin, and on the south-east b ...
, Kordun and Gornje
Pokuplje Pokuplje is the name for the Kupa river basin in Croatia. Major settlements are Karlovac, Sisak, Petrinja, Glina and Topusko Topusko is a municipality in Sisak-Moslavina County, Croatia. Topusko is an underdeveloped municipality which is statis ...
. The Ogulin-Modruš valley is the northern section of the
Ogulin-Plaški valley Ogulin-Plaški valley ( hr, Ogulinsko-plaščanska udolina) is a valley in the mountainous part of central Croatia, named after the towns of Ogulin and Plaški. It is located at an elevation of 300 to 380 meters above sea level, surrounded by the ...
, which finishes towards the south where the Modruš hills pass into the second largest field of the area under Kapela-
Plaški Plaški ( sr-Cyrl, Плашки) is a village and a municipality in Karlovac County, Croatia. It is part of Lika. Geography Plaški is situated in the lower part of the Ogulin-Plaški valley. Together with Gorski kotar and Lika, the Ogulin-Pl ...
Polje A polje, also karst polje or karst field, is a large flat plain found in karstic geological regions of the world, with areas usually . The name derives from the Slavic languages and literally means 'field', whereas in English ''polje'' specif ...
. This comprises a completed geographical whole border on the western side by the mountain massif of Velika Kapela dominated by Klek (1181 m). Its eastern edges are bordered by the mounts of Krpel (), Brezovica () and Hum (). The valley then passes to the hilly are dominated by Klekinja () and Trojvrh (). This valley is also called Ogulin's Plain (in Croatian: Ogulinsko Polje). This is the fifth largest karst valley in Croatia (), and it lies
above sea level Height above mean sea level is a measure of the vertical distance ( height, elevation or altitude) of a location in reference to a historic mean sea level taken as a vertical datum. In geodesy, it is formalized as '' orthometric heights''. Th ...
. Its elongated form lies in the direction northwest-southeast, and it is long (Ogulin-Trojvrh) and wide (Desmerice-Skradnik). The Dobra River runs through and disappears in the center of the town. Approximately three kilometers south of the town centre is an artificial lake Sabljaci, formed with the purpose of accumulating water from the Zagorska Mrežnica river, and for the sake of generating electricity in the
Hydroelectric power plant Hydroelectricity, or hydroelectric power, is electricity generated from hydropower (water power). Hydropower supplies one sixth of the world's electricity, almost 4500 TWh in 2020, which is more than all other renewable sources combined an ...
Gojak. The lake is connected with the town's other artificial lake, lake Bukovnik, via a tunnel. Lake Bukovnik is approximately one kilometer away from lake Sabljaci, and is connected to the hydroelectric power plant Gojak also with a tunnel, approximately 10 km long. The surface area of lake Sabljaci is around 170 ha, which makes it the 11th Croatian lake when compared by size. The lake contains many kinds of fish species, and it is also used for swimming and various water sports. * Elevation: 323 m (1060 ft) above sea level * Latitude: 45° 15' 59" * Longitude: 15° 13' 44"


Climate


Population

According to the 2011 census,
Croats The Croats (; hr, Hrvati ) are a South Slavic ethnic group who share a common Croatian ancestry, culture, history and language. They are also a recognized minority in a number of neighboring countries, namely Austria, the Czech Republic ...
comprise 80.2% and
Serbs The Serbs ( sr-Cyr, Срби, Srbi, ) are the most numerous South Slavs, South Slavic ethnic group native to the Balkans in Southeastern Europe, who share a common Serbian Cultural heritage, ancestry, Culture of Serbia, culture, History of ...
17.7% of the municipality population. Serbs form a majority in many villages, most of them are upland. The settlements in the municipality are: * Desmerice, population 262 * Donje Dubrave, population 199 * Donje Zagorje, population 230 * Drežnica, population 516 * Dujmić Selo, population 142 * Gornje Dubrave, population 90 * Gornje Zagorje, population 297 * Hreljin Ogulinski, population 549 * Jasenak, population 226 * Marković Selo, population 56 * Ogulin, population 8,216 * Otok Oštarijski, population 381 * Ponikve, population 98 * Popovo Selo, population 46 * Potok Musulinski, population 91 * Puškarići, population 439 * Ribarići, population 337 * Sabljak Selo, population 254 * Salopek Selo, population 246 * Sveti Petar, population 651 * Trošmarija, population 127 * Turkovići Ogulinski, population 249 * Vitunj, population 98 * Zagorje, population 115


Culture


Parish Church of the Extolling Saint Cross

This church was built in 1781 in the middle of the town, in the Park of King Tomislav. Consecrated on June 1, 179, it reflects the spirit of the time with its pleasing external appearance and the richness of various sculptural decorations. The town of Ogulin celebrates September 14 as the fest day of its patron Saint of Extolling of the Cross.


Saint Bernard Chapel

Bernardin Frankopan, the son of Stjepan, and the founder of the town of Ogulin, erected a chapel in 16th century both for nobleman and ordinary people within the castle. It is devoted to St Bernardin. This chapel was the parish church from 1521 until the building of the church of St Cross in 1781. Today, only the altar has been preserved.


Saint Rocco Chapel

This chapel was built at the entrance to the town in the first half of 19th century as a votive church against cholera.


Frankopan Castle

The Castle was built between 1493 and 1500 above the gorge of the River Dobra - Đula's abyss. The founder of the town was Bernardin Frankopan, one of the mightiest people of his time, and the feudal master of Modruš, Plaški, Vitunj, Tounj, Zvečaj, Bosiljevo, Novigrad and Dubovac. The Frankopans resided in the castle until 1533, when it was relinquished to the soldiers of the Military Frontier. It belongs to the period of Renaissance castles. The town walls surrounded the courtyard area on three sides, while on the fourth there was a three-storey building with towers at the sides.


The County Museum

The County Museum of Ogulin was opened in July 1967 in several of the Frankopan Castle halls that were being renovated and prepared between 1960 and 1967. At the time of opening it hosted a collection of works related to the workers movement, and NOB, while today it is hosting collections of various kinds: collection of stone monuments, collection of
Croatian War of Independence The Croatian War of Independence was fought from 1991 to 1995 between Croat forces loyal to the Government of Croatia—which had declared independence from the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia (SFRY)—and the Serb-controlled Yug ...
, ethnographic collection, the memorial room of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić (a renowned Croatian fairy-tale author), mountaineering, archaeological collection, Cell number 6, and an exhibition of the academic painter Stjepan Galetić born in Ogulin. The museum also collects objects related to old crafts and trades, old weaponry, old photographs, and the collection of postcards and greeting cards. Considering that the County Museum of Ogulin is the only museum in the entire area between the cities of
Rijeka Rijeka ( , , ; also known as Fiume hu, Fiume, it, Fiume ; local Chakavian: ''Reka''; german: Sankt Veit am Flaum; sl, Reka) is the principal seaport and the third-largest city in Croatia (after Zagreb and Split). It is located in Prim ...
and
Karlovac Karlovac () is a city in central Croatia. According to the 2011 census, its population was 55,705. Karlovac is the administrative centre of Karlovac County. The city is located on the Zagreb-Rijeka highway and railway line, south-west of Zagre ...
, it is the only institution that works on preserving the valuable cultural and historic heritage of that wider area, and as such its task is to collect, process, present and publish the historical and cultural works, documents, and other artistic artefacts from the area of Ogulin and its neighbouring areas.


King Tomislav Monument

The monument was erected in 1925, for the 1000th anniversary of the founding of the Croatian kingdom. It stands in the Park of King Tomislav which was planned and arranged in the 18th century. The monument was made according to the design of the Slovenian architect Vitburg Meck, and was repaired in 1990.


Cesarovac Fountain

This classic building is also erected in the Park. It represents a memorial to the Ogulin aqueduct and was built by colonel Stevan Šuplikac from Ogulin in 1847. Water flowed from the spring through wooden tubes which were lately replaced by the clay, and in 1882 by the iron tubes. For Cesarovac source is connected and a legend. Water flows into the source, comes from a source located at the foot of the mountain Klek. And as on the mountain Klek lived a witch, so the water is magical. Legend says, that women who drink the water from the springs, will remain forever young. And men who drink water from springs, water will be captured to forever remain in this city, who you will fall in love with a woman from Ogulin, and by the end of life remain to live in Ogulin.


Notable people

*
Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić (; 18 April 1874 – 21 September 1938) was a Croatian writer. Within her native land, as well as internationally, she has been praised as the best Croatian writer for children. Early life She was born on 18 April 1874 i ...
- writer * Vladimir Goldner - physician, academic and professor * Josip Kregar - lawyer and politician * Elza Polak - horticulturist *
Ema Pukšec Ema Pukšec (February 6, 1834 – January 14, 1889), also known as Ilma de Murska, as well as Ilma di Murska, was a famous 19th-century soprano opera singer from Croatia. Life Ema Pukšec was born in Ogulin (present-day Republic of Croati ...
(also known as Ilma De Murska) - opera singer * Barbara Radulović - television host * Petar Stipetić - general *
Ante Pavić Ante Pavić (; born 7 March 1989) is an inactive Croatian professional tennis player. His highest singles ranking is No. 132 achieved on 13 October 2014. He qualified for the main draw in the 2014 French Open after saving a match point in the fina ...
- tennis player *
Luka Cindrić Luka Cindrić (born 5 July 1993) is a Croatian professional handball player for Dinamo București and the Croatian national team. He participated at the 2019 World Men's Handball Championship. Honours Individual awards *EHF Player of the Year: ...
- handball player


References


External links

*
Ogulin portal

Blog site about Ogulin

Another blog site about Ogulin

Blog site about Handball school Ogulin

The "Domaći" Tourist agency, Ogulin
{{Authority control Cities and towns in Croatia Populated places in Karlovac County Modruš-Rijeka County