Janga or Jangi-Tau or Dzhangi-Tau ( ka, ჯანღა ; , ''Džangi-Tau'') is a
summit in the central part of the
Greater Caucasus Mountain Range. Mountain has three peaks - the main peak Jangi-Tau with elevation above sea level , West Peak with elevation and East Peak with elevation Mountain lies on the
border
Borders are usually defined as geographical boundaries, imposed either by features such as oceans and terrain, or by political entities such as governments, sovereign states, federated states, and other subnational entities. Political borders c ...
of
Svaneti
Svaneti or Svanetia (Suania in ancient sources; ka, სვანეთი ) is a historic province in the northwestern part of Georgia. It is inhabited by the Svans, an ethnic subgroup of Georgians.
Geography
Situated on the southern slop ...
(
Georgia
Georgia most commonly refers to:
* Georgia (country), a country in the Caucasus region of Eurasia
* Georgia (U.S. state), a state in the Southeast United States
Georgia may also refer to:
Places
Historical states and entities
* Related to the ...
) and
Kabardino-Balkaria
The Kabardino-Balkarian Republic (russian: Кабарди́но-Балка́рская Респу́блика, ''Kabardino-Balkarskaya Respublika''; kbd, Къэбэрдей-Балъкъэр Республикэ, ''Ķêbêrdej-Baĺķêr Respublik ...
(
Russia
Russia (, , ), or the Russian Federation, is a transcontinental country spanning Eastern Europe and Northern Asia. It is the largest country in the world, with its internationally recognised territory covering , and encompassing one-eig ...
). The slopes of the mountain are heavily glaciated. They are most famous for the dormant volcanoes that are hidden under the ice caps.
History
On September 12, 1888, English climber John Garford Cockin with Swiss guides
Ulrich Almer
Ulrich Almer was a Switzerland, Swiss mountain guide, born on 8 May 1849 in Grindelwald (Berne), Grindelwald where he died on 4 September 1940. He made many first ascent, premieres in the Alps, at the beginning with his father Christian Almer, one ...
and Christian Roth, were the first to climb East Janga, who had climbed the main ridge a few days earlier, and later -
Ushba
Ushba ( ka, უშბა) is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 high ...
and
Dykh-Tau.
[ J. G. Cockin, « ''Shkara, Janga, and Ushba'' », ''The Alpine Journal'', vol. XVI, n° 122, novembre 1893, pp. 477-494 - reproduced in Douglas W. Freshfield, ]
The exploration of Caucasus
', E. Arnold, 1896, Volume II, pp. 38-58 The most difficult, 5 B category (
Russian Grading) route (south-western wall) was first traced by Georgian mountaineers (Grisha Gulbani - group leader Giorgi Berdzenishvili, Jokia Gugava, Sozar Gugava, Ilo Kavlashvili, Suliko Khabeishvili). The first ascent to the main Janga also belongs to foreign climbers.
[Jangha]
The Olympians Club of Georgia
On July 23, 1935, they climbed the peak of the north-eastern ridge (5 A category,
Russian Grading ) to R. Schwarzgruber (group leader) v. Marini, f. Peringer et al. Thaler. Only one route passes through the
Khalde Glacier. In 1965, Givi Kartvelishvili (group leader), Tamaz Bakanidze, Nugzar Bakradze, Besik Bakradze, Tengiz Berishvili and Dimitri Sharashenidze reached the peak of the main wall through the south wall of the USSR championship program. West Janga is the most inaccessible among the peaks of the array.
It cannot be taken from the north due to "frost and avalanche" danger. There are two routes from
Khalde Glacier (1960 - Otar Khazaradze, 1964 - I. Reformatorski).
References
Mountains of Georgia (country)
Mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria
Georgia (country)–Russia border
International mountains of Europe
Five-thousanders of the Caucasus
{{Georgia-geo-stub