Heuriger

In eastern Austria, a ''Heuriger'' (; Austrian dialect pronunciation: Heiriga) is a tavern where local winemakers serve their new wine under a special licence in alternate months during the growing season. The ''Heurige'' are renowned for their atmosphere of ''Gemütlichkeit'' shared among a throng enjoying young wine, simple food, and - in some places - '' Schrammelmusik''. They correspond to the '' Straußwirtschaften'' in the German Rheinland, the ''Frasche'' in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and ''Osmica'' in Slovenia.

''Heuriger'' is the abbreviation of "heuriger Wein" (this year's wine) in Austrian and Bavarian German. Originally, they were simple open-air taverns on the premises of winemakers, where people would bring along food and drink the new wine. Nowadays, the taverns are often situated at a distance from the wineyards and offer both food and drinks. ''Heurige'' where apple or pear cider is served are called ''Mostheurige''. In the well-known wine-growing areas of the city of Vienna (Grinzing, Sievering, Neustift, Liesing) many eating establishments have a rustic interior design similar to ''Heurige'', yet they have a normal licence and sell wine they buy from outside sources.

History

On 17 August 1784 Austrian Emperor Joseph II issued a decree that permitted all residents to open establishments to sell and serve self-produced ''wine and juices''. At first no food could be sold in order to prevent competition with restaurants, but over time these restrictions lessened.

''Ausg'steckt'' would be a sign that the wine farmer was serving out the wine at a ''Heuriger''.

Over the years well-known areas for ''Heurigen'' developed, including Grinzing, Sievering, Neustift am Walde, Perchtoldsdorf, Mauer, Stammersdorf, Guntramsdorf, Gumpoldskirchen, Traiskirchen, Gainfarn, Dürnstein, Langenlois, the Wachau region, Rust, Königstetten, Gamlitz, and Kitzeck.

Similar establishments exist in wine-producing regions elsewhere in Austria, known as ''Buschenschank'' in Styria, and '' Straußen'', '' Besenwirtschaft'', or ''Heckenwirtschaft'' in Germany and other German-speaking areas.

Atmosphere

A ''Heuriger'' is prized both for the charms of what it offers and its limitations. Each ''Heuriger'' is only open briefly, usually 2 or 3 weeks during a four-month season in the fall, although it may reopen again later in the season when more wine has been produced. It serves only its own wine, and but a limited selection of food as an evening meal, generally local, homemade products offered as small dishes such as Liptauer spread, various meat or sausage and Semmel combinations, or cheese boards.

Typical drinks found at ''Heurigen'' include Sturm, a partially fermented wine sold at the beginning of fall that still contains a fair amount of grape, and Gruner Veltliner, which is one of the most popular types of Austrian wine. Almdudler and Gespritzer are also commonly found at modern ''Heurigen.'' Lucky patrons will sometimes find Eiswein to enjoy with dessert.

''Heurigen'' indicate that they are open and guests welcome by displaying a handful of conifer or fir twigs bound in a circular ''Buschen'' hung above the entrance door. Until the 20th century, it was customary for guests to bring along their own food when enjoying wine at a ''Heuriger''. To make an establishment more profitable, in many places the tavern was leased to other winemakers (''Winzer'' in German), known as ''Winzerstuben''.

''Gemütlichkeit'' shared among a throng enjoying young wine, simple food, and traditional music is one of the greatest appeals of a ''Heuriger''. As a result, many establishments elsewhere, such as in Vienna, are made to look like ''Heurigen'' but in fact are licensed restaurants selling wines from outside sources; these even serve beer and coffee, unthinkable at an authentic ''Heuriger''.

Music

Music has traditionally been part of the ''Heuriger'' ambiance and contributes greatly to its ''Gemütlichkeit''. When present today it is typically provided by a pair of ''Heurigensänger'' who serenade from table to table for tips. Playing a guitar and accordion, they take requests for songs from their repertoire of ''Wienerlieder'' and Schrammelmusik.

These songs' themes invariably revolve around the quality of the wine, its consumption and consequences, Vienna's beauty, a nostalgic longing for the past, the transience of life, the inevitability of suffering and death at God's will, and, to a somewhat lesser degree, romantic love.

Even trying to honor the ''Heuriger'' tradition, music has changed dramatically since performers such as The Third Man sensation Anton Karas earned a living by playing his ''Zither'' or Hans Moser sang a ''Wienerlied'' from his movies. Visitors from Germany will hope to hear songs from their native land, as will those from others; the ''Heurigensänger'' will try their best.

See also

* Strausse
* Straußwirtschaften
* Frasche
* Federweisser
* Grüner Veltliner
* Almdudler
* Gespritzer
* Eiswein

References

External links

Wine-Culture in Vienna

{{Authority control

Restaurants by type
Types of drinking establishment
Wine terminology
Austrian cuisine
Austrian wine