A gable hood, English hood or gable headdress is an
English
English usually refers to:
* English language
* English people
English may also refer to:
Peoples, culture, and language
* ''English'', an adjective for something of, from, or related to England
** English national ...
woman's
headdress of , so-called because its pointed shape resembles the
gable
A gable is the generally triangular portion of a wall between the edges of intersecting roof pitches. The shape of the gable and how it is detailed depends on the structural system used, which reflects climate, material availability, and aest ...
of a house. The contemporary
French hood
The French hood is a type of woman's headgear that was popular in Western Europe in the 16th century.
The French hood is characterized by a rounded shape, contrasted with the angular "English" or gable hood. It is worn over a coif, and has a b ...
was rounded in outline and unlike the gable hood, less conservative, displaying the front part of the hair.
Originally a simple pointed hood with decorated side panels called ''
lappets'' and a veil at the back, over time the gable hood became a complex construction stiffened with
buckram
Buckram is a stiff cotton (occasionally linen or horse hair) cloth with a loose weave, often muslin. The fabric is soaked in a sizing agent such as wheat-starch paste, glue (such as PVA glue), or pyroxylin (gelatinized nitrocellulose, dev ...
, with a box-shaped back and two tube-shaped hanging veils at 90-degree angles; the hanging veils and lappets could be pinned up in a variety of ways to make complex headdresses.
On average, it consisted of four parts; the paste, lappets, veil and decorative jewels (for the most aristocratic only). The paste was a white, stiffened version of the
coif
A coif () is a close fitting cap worn by both men and women that covers the top, back, and sides of the head.
History
Coifs date from the 10th century, but fell out of popularity with men in the 14th century."A New Look for Women." Arts and ...
, with drawstrings at the back to adjust to the wearer's head. Then, the lappets were pinned to the paste, and either left to hang or pinned to the side of the head. Then, the veil. The jewels were mounted on a stiff foundation that could be sewn to the paste, acting not only as decoration but as something to create a more rigid structure. A striped silk undercap could also be worn to fully cover the hair.
Gallery
File:Elizabeth of York from Kings and Queens of England.jpg, Early gable hood: Elizabeth of York
Elizabeth of York (11 February 1466 – 11 February 1503) was Queen of England from her marriage to King Henry VII on 18 January 1486 until her death in 1503. Elizabeth married Henry after his victory at the Battle of Bosworth Field, which mark ...
File:Catherine aragon.jpg, alt=A portrait of Queen Catherine of Aragon, Henry the eight's first wife. She wears a black French-style gown with yellow undersleeves and a golden gable good, 18th cent. rendition of a 1520s gable hood - pinned lappets are shown here.
File:Gablehood front-back c1535 detail.jpg, alt=Front and back views of a box-backed gable hood of c. 1528–30. Detail of a drawing by Holbein, Front and back views of a box-backed gable hood of . Detail of a drawing by Holbein
File:Holbein gable hood eng.jpg, alt=Gable hood with lappets and one side of veil pinned up (engraving after Holbein c. 1535), Gable hood with lappets and one side of veil pinned up (engraving after Holbein )
File:Hans Holbein d. J. 033.jpg, alt=A Tudor woman wearing a simple gable hood. She also wears a black gown and black partlet, underneath some furs, Gable hood of
See also
*
1500–1550 in Western European fashion
*
Margaret Beaufort
*
Catherine of Aragon
Catherine of Aragon (also spelt as Katherine, ; 16 December 1485 – 7 January 1536) was Queen of England as the first wife of King Henry VIII from their marriage on 11 June 1509 until their annulment on 23 May 1533. She was previously ...
*
Jane Seymour
Jane Seymour (c. 150824 October 1537) was Queen of England as the third wife of King Henry VIII of England from their marriage on 30 May 1536 until her death the next year. She became queen following the execution of Henry's second wife, Anne ...
*
Mary Boleyn
Mary Boleyn, also known as Lady Mary, (c. 1499 – 19 July 1543) was the sister of English queen consort Anne Boleyn, whose family enjoyed considerable influence during the reign of King Henry VIII.
Mary was one of the mistresses of Henry VI ...
References
* Ashelford, Jane: ''The Art of Dress: Clothing and Society 1500–1914'', Abrams, 1996.
* Ashelford, Jane: ''A Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century'', Drama Books, 1983.
External links
Tudor Gable Headdress: A Portfolio of Images
{{Clothing-stub
Headgear
English clothing
History of clothing (Western fashion)
16th-century fashion