Feni (liquor)
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Feni (misspelt fenno or fenny,
Indo-Portuguese Indo-Portuguese creoles are the several Portuguese creoles spoken in the erstwhile Portuguese Indian settlements, Cochin Portuguese Creole, Fort Bassein, Goa and Damaon, Portuguese Ceylon etc, in present-day India and Sri Lanka. These creole ...
; fénnim) is a spiritous liquor indigenous to the state of
Goa Goa () is a state on the southwestern coast of India within the Konkan region, geographically separated from the Deccan highlands by the Western Ghats. It is located between the Indian states of Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka to the ...
,
India India, officially the Republic of India (Hindi: ), is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country, and the most populous democracy in the world. Bounded by the Indian Ocean on the so ...
. The two most popular types of feni are Cashew feni and Coconut feni, depending on the ingredients; however, other varieties and newer blends are also sold by distillaries. The small-batch distillation of feni has a fundamental effect on its final character, which still retains some of the delicate aromatics, congeners, and flavour elements of the juice from which it was produced. The word ''feni'' is derived from the
Sanskrit Sanskrit (; attributively , ; nominally , , ) is a classical language belonging to the Indo-Aryan branch of the Indo-European languages. It arose in South Asia after its predecessor languages had diffused there from the northwest in the late ...
word , in Naagri Konkani; '' फेन'' or ''फेण'' & in
Romi Konkani Konkani in the Roman script, commonly known as Romi Konkani or ''Romi Konknni'' () refers to the writing of the Konkani language in the Roman script. While Konkani is written in five different scripts altogether, Romi Konkani is widely used. Romi ...
; ''fenn''; which means "
froth Foams are materials formed by trapping pockets of gas in a liquid or solid. A bath sponge and the head on a glass of beer are examples of foams. In most foams, the volume of gas is large, with thin films of liquid or solid separating the r ...
"; thought to come from the bubbles that form when the liquor is shaken inside a bottle or poured into a glass. It is generally accepted that coconut feni (palm toddy) was produced before it, and feni followed the same process until
distillation Distillation, or classical distillation, is the process of separating the components or substances from a liquid mixture by using selective boiling and condensation, usually inside an apparatus known as a still. Dry distillation is the heat ...
was introduced by Europeans. Coconut palms are abundant along the western coastline of the Konkan region in south Asia/ India, whereas the cashew tree was an
exotic species An introduced species, alien species, exotic species, adventive species, immigrant species, foreign species, non-indigenous species, or non-native species is a species living outside its native distributional range, but which has arrived there ...
of crops, imported by the
Portuguese in Goa and Bombay The State of India ( pt, Estado da Índia), also referred as the Portuguese State of India (''Estado Português da Índia'', EPI) or simply Portuguese India (), was a state of the Portuguese Empire founded six years after the discovery of a se ...
, from what was colonial Brazil in
south America South America is a continent entirely in the Western Hemisphere and mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, with a relatively small portion in the Northern Hemisphere at the northern tip of the continent. It can also be described as the sout ...
. There is ambiguity about when and who first produced a fermented beverage of
cashew fruit The cashew tree (''Anacardium occidentale'') is a tropical evergreen tree native to South America in the genus '' Anacardium'' that produces the cashew seed and the cashew apple accessory fruit. The tree can grow as tall as , but the dwarf cu ...
s, to make the
distilled spirit Liquor (or a spirit) is an alcoholic drink produced by distillation of grains, fruits, vegetables, or sugar, that have already gone through alcoholic fermentation. Other terms for liquor include: spirit drink, distilled beverage or ha ...
of feni. The feni consumed in southern Goa is generally of higher alcohol content (43–45%
abv Alcohol by volume (abbreviated as ABV, abv, or alc/vol) is a standard measure of how much alcohol (ethanol) is contained in a given volume of an alcoholic beverage (expressed as a volume percent). It is defined as the number of millilitres (mL) o ...
) as compared to the feni produced in northern Goa. Commercially packaged feni is available at 42.8% abv.


Preparation


Cashew feni

In the traditional method of making cashew feni, only tree-ripened cashew apples that have fallen are picked and taken for the crush. The cashew apples are de-seeded and then dropped into the stomping area. This area is called a ''collmi'' and is usually a rock cut into a basin shape. The cashew apples are stomped to release the juice. Stomping has now gradually been replaced by the use of a press called a ''pingre'' (cage). The pulp is then hand-patted into small mounds traditionally using a particular vine, ''nudi'', which is snaked around it to hold it together while a heavyweight (typically a boulder) is placed on top. The juice produced through this second extraction process is known as ''Neero/Niro'', and is refreshing to drink; however, it is not used in the fermentation process generally for making feni. The first juice extract, obtained by stomping cashew apples, is transferred traditionally in a large earthen pot called a ''koddem'', which is buried halfway in the ground and left while the juice ferments for several days. Delicate earthen ''koddem'' have now been replaced by plastic drums for the sake of practicality. The juice is then allowed to sit for three days as it ferments. No artificial yeast or nutrients are added to hasten the process. Cashew feni is distilled employing the traditional pot, which is still practiced. A traditional
still A still is an apparatus used to distill liquid mixtures by heating to selectively boil and then cooling to condense the vapor. A still uses the same concepts as a basic distillation apparatus, but on a much larger scale. Stills have been use ...
for feni is still known as a ''bhatti''. The use of an earthen pot as the boiling pot has now been replaced with copper pots, both known by the same name, ''bhann''. The distillate is collected in an earthen pot called a ''launni''. The tradition of cold water being continuously poured on the ''launni'' to condense the distillate has now been replaced by immersing a coil in cold water. Cashew feni is a triple-distilled spirit. The first distillate of the fermented ''neero'' is known as
Urrak Every year, in the first month of summer, across the Indian state of Goa, cultish alcoholic beverage, Urrak, is made by the local folks. It is very popular in the state's many local pubs and taverns. While Feni is a double distilled alcoholic d ...
, about 15% alcohol (30 proof). ''Urrak'' is then mixed with ''neero'' in a proportion determined by the distiller, and redistilled to give a spirit called ''cazulo'' or ''cajulo'' (40–42% abv). ''Cazulo'' or ''cajulo'' is again distilled with ''Urrak'' to give a high-strength spirit called feni (45% abv). Note that ''cazulo'' is generally sold as "feni", as the spirit is considered too strong of an alcoholic beverage for consumption. All cashew feni now available is double-distilled.


Coconut feni

Coconut feni, also known as ''Maddel'' or ''Maddachim Fenni'', is distilled from fermented toddy from the coconut palm. Traditionally toddy is collected from the coconut palm by a toddy-tapper called a ''Reindér''. Toddy-tapping—the collection of juice from the bud or spadix of palm tree flowers—has been practiced in the
Indian Subcontinent The Indian subcontinent is a list of the physiographic regions of the world, physiographical region in United Nations geoscheme for Asia#Southern Asia, Southern Asia. It is situated on the Indian Plate, projecting southwards into the Indian O ...
and
Southeast Asia Southeast Asia, also spelled South East Asia and South-East Asia, and also known as Southeastern Asia, South-eastern Asia or SEA, is the geographical south-eastern region of Asia, consisting of the regions that are situated south of mainlan ...
for centuries. The sap of the coconut palm is collected in an earthen pot called a ''zamonnô'' or ''damonnem'', which is fitted over the spadix (''ipoi'') that grows out of the base of each coconut leaf. In order to produce toddy, the spadix is tightly bound with a rope (''gofê''/''gophe'') made from filaments (''vaiê'') cut with a small knife (''piskathi'') from the base of the leaf, while remaining attached to the pedicle. The spadix then must be tapped all around very gently with the handle of the ''kathi'' (a flat semi-circular sickle) every alternate day until it becomes round and flexible, a sign that the sap is ready. The tip of the spadix is then cut off to let the sap ooze out into the ''damonnem''. Toddy is collected from the ''damonnem'' in the morning and evening, and then carried down the tree in a gourd-shaped container called a ''dudhinnem'' before being poured into a clay pot called a ''kollsô''. The spadix is sharpened at noon by slicing a small piece horizontally off the top, called ''cheu'', so as to reactivate the flow of sap. For three days the toddy used to be left to ferment in clay or porcelain pots, called ''monn'' or ''jhallo''. Coconut feni is largely produced and consumed only in South Goa. It is distilled employing the traditional pot. Coconut feni is prepared in a distillery known as a ''sôreachi bhatti''. The use of an earthen pot as the boiling pot has now been replaced with copper cauldrons, both known by the same name, ''bhann''. The mouth of the ''bhann'' is sealed with a wooden stopper called a ''mhorannem''. The vapours from the ''bhann'' pass through a tube called a ''nollo'', made from a ''bonnki/bonnqui'' stem, and are collected in a clay distillation pot called a ''launni'', which is placed in an open clay vessel called a ''koddem'' filled with water. The copper coil is immersed in cold water to condense the vapours. Commercially bottled coconut feni has a strength of 42.8%
abv Alcohol by volume (abbreviated as ABV, abv, or alc/vol) is a standard measure of how much alcohol (ethanol) is contained in a given volume of an alcoholic beverage (expressed as a volume percent). It is defined as the number of millilitres (mL) o ...
. Coconut feni is a double-distilled spirit; the first distillate is called a ''mollop'', about 15% alcohol (30 proof). Four ''kollxem'' (plural of ''kollsô'') of toddy produce two pots of ''mollop''. Four pots of ''mollop'' are then mixed with one ''kollso'' of toddy, which is added to distill what is then a fiery coconut feni.


Commerce

The feni selling market is largely unorganised. Locals tend to buy feni directly from the thousands of traditional distillers who run seasonal mini-distilleries or stalls in the villages of Goa. A large volume of feni that is distilled is sold directly by distillers to taverns who have business relationships that extend over generations. Cashew feni is seasonal, distilled only from late February to mid-May. It is highly dependent on the fruiting of the season. The price of cashew feni is also speculated on the fruiting season. Coconut feni is produced throughout the year as coconut trees are tapped year round. During the monsoon months, the coconut palms produce more toddy than the drier months. Toddy tapping is very labour-intensive and so is not an appealing profession. This has led to the dramatic decline in production of coconut feni. In the organised sector, there are also hundreds of brands to choose from that cater to the tourist market. Locals have slowly begun to switch to standardised bottled feni in recent years.


Consumption

Feni can be served neat or over ice, and can be mixed in classic cocktails or with juices. It can be served with a slice of
lime Lime commonly refers to: * Lime (fruit), a green citrus fruit * Lime (material), inorganic materials containing calcium, usually calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide * Lime (color), a color between yellow and green Lime may also refer to: Botany ...
, and sometimes with sugar or sugar syrup, which are popular additions. Popular mixers are
cola Cola is a carbonated soft drink flavored with vanilla, cinnamon, citrus oils and other flavorings. Cola became popular worldwide after the American pharmacist John Stith Pemberton invented Coca-Cola, a trademarked brand, in 1886, which was imi ...
,
tonic water Tonic water (or Indian tonic water) is a carbonated soft drink in which quinine is dissolved. Originally used as a prophylactic against malaria, tonic water usually has a significantly lower quinine content and is consumed for its distinctive ...
&
lemonade Lemonade is a sweetened lemon-flavored beverage. There are varieties of lemonade found throughout the world. In North America and South Asia, cloudy still lemonade is the most common variety. There it is traditionally a homemade drink using ...
, with the latter probably the most popular. Feni is also often mixed with
Limca Limca is an Indian multinational brand of lemon- and lime-flavoured carbonated soft drink made primarily in India and certain parts of the U.S. It contains 60 calories per 150ml can. The formula does not include fruit, relying instead on arti ...
,
Maaza Maaza (pronounced "Mahza") is a Coca-Cola fruit drink brand from India and marketed in Africa, Eastern Europe and Asia. Its most popular drink is its mango fruit drink. History The Union Beverages Factory, based in the UAE, began selling it ...
, Sprite, or
7up 7 Up (stylized as 7up outside North America) is an American brand of lemon-lime-flavored non-caffeinated soft drink. The brand and formula are owned by Keurig Dr Pepper although the beverage is internationally distributed by PepsiCo. 7 Up co ...
. Feni has also culinary applications, such as in the marinade for pork, along with garlic, ginger, Indian spices, and vinegar, as the base for the iconic
Vindaloo Vindaloo or vindalho is an Indian curry dish, which is originally from Goa, based on the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d'alhos. It is known globally in its British Indian form as a staple of curry house and Indian restaurant menus, and is ofte ...
curry.


Geographical Indication

Cashew feni was awarded
Geographical Indication A geographical indication (GI) is a name or sign used on products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g., a town, region, or country). The use of a geographical indication, as an indication of the product's source, ...
registration in 2009 as a speciality alcoholic beverage from Goa, described as a colourless, clear liquid that when matured in wooden barrels develops golden brown tint. This designation was achieved through the efforts of the Goa Cashew Feni Distillers & Bottlers Association and the Department of Science, Technology & Environment of the Government of Goa. The application of a G.I. for coconut feni has been neglected.


Heritage drink

In 2016, the Goan government initiated a process for feni to be recognised as a heritage brew outside of the state. Goa Chief Minister
Laxmikant Parsekar Laxmikant Parsekar (born Laxmikant Yashwant Parsekar; 4 July 1956) is an Indian politician who held the office of the Chief Minister of Goa, a state in India from 2014 to 2017. He was the member of the Goa Legislative Assembly from Mandrem c ...
described feni as "part of our culture". Plans include nature tourism where tourists can see cashew harvesting and follow the process of the drink's manufacture. Several distillers urged the government to issue rules on distillation process and ensure that they are obeyed. Counterfeit feni and adulteration in quality were some of the issues raised by participants.


See also

*
List of Indian drinks With a climate as varied and extreme as India, the people require a myriad of options to keep their thirst appropriately quenched according to the weather conditions, varying from steaming hot drinks during winters to frosty cold drinks in su ...
*
Bombay Sapphire Bombay Sapphire is a brand of gin that is distilled by the Bombay Spirits Company, a subsidiary company of Bacardi, at Laverstoke Mill in the village of Laverstoke in the English county of Hampshire. The brand was first launched in 1986 by En ...
*
Palm toddy Palm wine, known by several local names, is an alcoholic beverage created from the sap of various species of palm tree such as the palmyra, date palms, and coconut palms. It is known by various names in different regions and is common in vari ...
*
Gin and Tonic A gin and tonic is a highball cocktail made with gin and tonic water poured over a large amount of ice. The ratio of gin to tonic varies according to taste, strength of the gin, other drink mixers being added, etc., with most recipes calling f ...


References


External links


Hic, hic! Hiccups for Goa’s feni industry



Warwick on Feni

Seeking GI Protection For Feni, An Indian Brew With A Strong Whiff
{{Whisky , state=collapsed Goan cuisine Indian distilled drinks Geographical indications in Goa Fruit brandies