Far Eastern Party
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The Far Eastern Party was a sledging component of the 1911–1914
Australasian Antarctic expedition The Australasian Antarctic Expedition was a 1911–1914 expedition headed by Douglas Mawson that explored the largely uncharted Antarctic coast due south of Australia. Mawson had been inspired to lead his own venture by his experiences on Ernest ...
, which investigated the previously unexplored coastal regions of Antarctica west of
Cape Adare Cape Adare is a prominent cape of black basalt forming the northern tip of the Adare Peninsula and the north-easternmost extremity of Victoria Land, East Antarctica. Description Marking the north end of Borchgrevink Coast and the west ...
. Led by
Douglas Mawson Sir Douglas Mawson OBE FRS FAA (5 May 1882 – 14 October 1958) was an Australian geologist, Antarctic explorer, and academic. Along with Roald Amundsen, Robert Falcon Scott, and Sir Ernest Shackleton, he was a key expedition leader duri ...
, the party aimed to explore the area far to the east of their main base in
Adélie Land Adélie Land (french: Terre Adélie, ) is a claimed territory on the continent of Antarctica. It stretches from a portion of the Southern Ocean coastline all the way inland to the South Pole. France has administered it as one of five districts ...
, pushing about towards
Victoria Land Victoria Land is a region in eastern Antarctica which fronts the western side of the Ross Sea and the Ross Ice Shelf, extending southward from about 70°30'S to 78°00'S, and westward from the Ross Sea to the edge of the Antarctic Plateau. I ...
. Accompanying Mawson were Belgrave Edward Ninnis, a lieutenant in the
Royal Fusiliers The Royal Fusiliers (City of London Regiment) was a line infantry regiment of the British Army in continuous existence for 283 years. It was known as the 7th Regiment of Foot until the Childers Reforms of 1881. The regiment served in many wars ...
, and Swiss ski expert Xavier Mertz; the party used
sledge dog A sled dog is a dog trained and used to pull a land vehicle in harness, most commonly a sled over snow. Sled dogs have been used in the Arctic for at least 8,000 years and, along with watercraft, were the only transportation in Arctic areas ...
s to increase their speed across the ice. Initially they made good progress, crossing two huge glaciers on their route south-east. On 14 December 1912, with the party more than from the safety of the main base at
Cape Denison Cape Denison is a rocky point at the head of Commonwealth Bay in George V Land, Antarctica. It was discovered in 1912 by the Australasian Antarctic Expedition (1911–14) under Douglas Mawson, who named it for Sir Hugh Denison of Sydney, a pat ...
, Ninnis and the sledge he was walking beside broke through the snow lid of a
crevasse A crevasse is a deep crack, that forms in a glacier or ice sheet that can be a few inches across to over 40 feet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid p ...
and were lost. Their supplies now severely compromised, Mawson and Mertz turned back west, gradually shooting the remaining sledge dogs for food to supplement their scarce rations. As they crossed the first glacier on their return journey Mertz became sick, making progress difficult. After almost a week of making very little headway Mertz died, leaving Mawson to carry on alone. For almost a month he pulled his sledge across the Antarctic, crossing the second glacier, despite an illness that increasingly weakened him. Mawson reached the comparative safety of Aladdin's Cave—a food depot from the main base—on 1 February 1913, only to be trapped there for a week while a
blizzard A blizzard is a severe snowstorm characterized by strong sustained winds and low visibility, lasting for a prolonged period of time—typically at least three or four hours. A ground blizzard is a weather condition where snow is not falling ...
raged outside. As a result, he missed the ship back to Australia; the had sailed on 8 February, just hours before his return to Cape Denison, after waiting for more than three weeks. With a relief party, Mawson remained at Cape Denison until the ''Aurora'' returned the following summer in December 1913. The causes of Mertz's death and Mawson's related illness remain uncertain; a 1969 study suggested
hypervitaminosis A Hypervitaminosis A refers to the toxic effects of ingesting too much preformed vitamin A (retinyl esters, retinol, and retinal). Symptoms arise as a result of altered bone metabolism and altered metabolism of other fat-soluble vitamins. Hypervi ...
, presumably caused by the men eating the livers of their Greenland huskies, which are now known to be unusually high in
vitamin A Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and an essential nutrient for humans. It is a group of organic compounds that includes retinol, retinal (also known as retinaldehyde), retinoic acid, and several provitamin A carotenoids (most notably ...
. While this is considered the most likely theory, dissenting opinions suggest prolonged cold exposure or psychological stresses. Explorer and mountaineer Sir
Edmund Hillary Sir Edmund Percival Hillary (20 July 1919 – 11 January 2008) was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, and philanthropist. On 29 May 1953, Hillary and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers confirmed to have reache ...
described Mawson's month-long journey as "probably the greatest story of lone survival in Polar exploration".Edmund Hillary (1976) in Bickel (2000), p. x.


Background

The
Australasian Antarctic expedition The Australasian Antarctic Expedition was a 1911–1914 expedition headed by Douglas Mawson that explored the largely uncharted Antarctic coast due south of Australia. Mawson had been inspired to lead his own venture by his experiences on Ernest ...
, commanded by
Douglas Mawson Sir Douglas Mawson OBE FRS FAA (5 May 1882 – 14 October 1958) was an Australian geologist, Antarctic explorer, and academic. Along with Roald Amundsen, Robert Falcon Scott, and Sir Ernest Shackleton, he was a key expedition leader duri ...
, explored part of
East Antarctica East Antarctica, also called Greater Antarctica, constitutes the majority (two-thirds) of the Antarctic continent, lying on the Indian Ocean side of the continent, separated from West Antarctica by the Transantarctic Mountains. It lies almos ...
between 1911 and 1914. The expedition's main base was established in January 1912, at
Cape Denison Cape Denison is a rocky point at the head of Commonwealth Bay in George V Land, Antarctica. It was discovered in 1912 by the Australasian Antarctic Expedition (1911–14) under Douglas Mawson, who named it for Sir Hugh Denison of Sydney, a pat ...
in
Commonwealth Bay Commonwealth Bay is an open bay about 48 km (30 mi) wide at the entrance between Point Alden and Cape Gray in Antarctica. It was discovered in 1912 by the Australasian Antarctic Expedition under Douglas Mawson, who established the main ...
,
Adélie Land Adélie Land (french: Terre Adélie, ) is a claimed territory on the continent of Antarctica. It stretches from a portion of the Southern Ocean coastline all the way inland to the South Pole. France has administered it as one of five districts ...
.Ayres (1999), p. 63. This was much farther west than originally intended; dense
pack ice Drift ice, also called brash ice, is sea ice that is not attached to the shoreline or any other fixed object (shoals, grounded icebergs, etc.).Leppäranta, M. 2011. The Drift of Sea Ice. Berlin: Springer-Verlag. Unlike fast ice, which is "faste ...
had prevented the expedition ship from landing closer to
Cape Adare Cape Adare is a prominent cape of black basalt forming the northern tip of the Adare Peninsula and the north-easternmost extremity of Victoria Land, East Antarctica. Description Marking the north end of Borchgrevink Coast and the west ...
, the original eastern limit.Bickel (2000), p. 43. Only after the ''Aurora''—heading west—had rounded the ice tongue of the Mertz Glacier, was a landing made. Battling katabatic winds that swept down from the
Antarctic Plateau The Antarctic Plateau, Polar Plateau or King Haakon VII Plateau is a large area of East Antarctica which extends over a diameter of about , and includes the region of the geographic South Pole and the Amundsen–Scott South Pole Station. This h ...
, the shore party erected their hut and began preparations for the following summer's sledging expeditions. The men readied clothing, sledges, tents and rations, conducted limited survey parties, and deployed several caches of supplies.Ayres (1999), p. 67.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 87. The most notable of these depots was Aladdin's Cave, excavated from the ice on the slope to the south of the main hut.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 90. On 27 October 1912, Mawson outlined the summer sledging program.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 98. Of the seven sledging parties that would depart from Cape Denison, three would head east. The Eastern Coastal Party, led by the geologist Cecil Madigan, was charged with exploring beyond the Mertz Glacier tongue;Mawson (1996), p. 135. they would initially be supported by the Near Eastern Party led by
Frank Leslie Stillwell Frank Leslie Stillwell OBE, (27 June 1888 – 8 February 1963) was an Australian geologist, winner of the David Syme Research Prize awarded by the University of Melbourne in 1919 and the Clarke Medal awarded by the Royal Society of New South ...
, which would then turn to mapping the area between Cape Denison and the glacier.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 99. The final party, led by Mawson, would push rapidly inland to the south of the Coastal Party towards
Victoria Land Victoria Land is a region in eastern Antarctica which fronts the western side of the Ross Sea and the Ross Ice Shelf, extending southward from about 70°30'S to 78°00'S, and westward from the Ross Sea to the edge of the Antarctic Plateau. I ...
, an area he had explored during
Ernest Shackleton Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton (15 February 1874 – 5 January 1922) was an Anglo-Irish Antarctic explorer who led three British expeditions to the Antarctic. He was one of the principal figures of the period known as the Heroic Age o ...
's ''Nimrod'' Expedition in 1908–1909. He hoped to travel about east, collecting geological data and specimens, mapping the coast, and claiming territory for the crown.Bickel (2000), pp. 78–79. Assisting him on this Far Eastern Party was Belgrave Edward Ninnis, a lieutenant in the
Royal Fusiliers The Royal Fusiliers (City of London Regiment) was a line infantry regiment of the British Army in continuous existence for 283 years. It was known as the 7th Regiment of Foot until the Childers Reforms of 1881. The regiment served in many wars ...
, and the Swiss ski expert Xavier Mertz.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 42. They were in charge of the expedition's Greenland huskies, who would be crucial if the party was to cover the distance at the speed Mawson intended. Ninnis and Mertz had spent the winter preparing the dogs for the journey, sewing harnesses and teaching them to run in teams with the sledges.Bickel (2000), p. 67.Bickel (2000), p. 77. Each of the parties was required to return to Cape Denison by 15 January 1913, to allow time for the ''Aurora'' to collect them and escape Antarctic waters unencumbered by the winter sea ice.Bickel (2000), p. 81.


Journey eastwards

Blizzards prevented the parties from leaving Cape Denison until 10 November 1912, four days after the scheduled start date. In his diary, Mertz recorded the clearing weather as "definitely a good omen".Ayres (1999), p. 70. Mawson wrote a short letter to his fiancée, Paquita Delprat: "The weather is fine this morning though the wind still blows. We shall get away in an hour's time. I have two good companions, Dr Mertz and Lieut. Ninnis. It is unlikely that any harm will happen to us, but should I not return to you in Australia, please know that I truly loved you. I must be closing now as the others are waiting." Allowing Madigan and Stillwell's parties a head-start, Mawson, Ninnis, Mertz and the seventeen dogs left Cape Denison early in the afternoon, reaching Aladdin's Cave four hours later.Bickel (2000), pp. 86–87.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 103. Stopping for the night, they took on extra supplies and rearranged the sledges. The first team of dogs would haul a train of two sledges, which collectively carried half the weight of the party's supplies. The remaining supplies were put on the third sledge, towed by the second dog team. Heading south the following day to avoid
crevasse A crevasse is a deep crack, that forms in a glacier or ice sheet that can be a few inches across to over 40 feet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid p ...
s to the east, they travelled about before poor weather forced them to stop and camp. Strong winds confined them to the tent until 13 November, and they were able to travel just a short distance before the weather picked up again. For three more days they remained in their tent, unable even to light the stove.Bickel (2000), pp. 90–91. When the weather cleared on 16 November, Madigan and Stillwell's parties joined them.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 105. The three parties travelled together for much of the following day, before Mawson's party separated and pushed on ahead in the late afternoon.Bickel (2000), p. 92.


Mertz and Ninnis Glaciers

Heading south-east towards the Mertz Glacier, with Mertz skiing ahead and Mawson and Ninnis driving the dogs, the party covered on 18 November.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 106–107. This was despite encountering sastrugi—ridges in the ice caused by wind—as high as , that caused the dogs to slip and the sledges to roll.Bickel (2000), p. 96.Mawson (1988), p. 132. During the day they passed two peaks, which Mawson named Madigan Nunatak and Aurora Peak, after the leader of the Eastern Coastal Party and the expedition's ship.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 106. The following day they began the steep descent to the Mertz Glacier. After the sledges several times overtook the dogs, the huskies were allowed to run free down the slope.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 108. Following a particularly steep descent the following day, half of Mawson's team of dogs—reattached to his sledges—were almost lost when they fell into a crevasse. They were hauled out, but Mawson decided to camp when one of the dogs, Ginger Bitch, gave birth to the first in a litter of 14 pups.Bickel (2000), pp. 99–100. Over the next several days, the party continued across the glacier. They developed a method of crossing the many crevasses; the forerunner, on skis, would cross the snow covering the hole—the lid—and once across the first of the two dog teams would follow. Only after the first dog team was across would the second follow, "otherwise", wrote Mawson, "the dogs in the rear would make a course direct for wherever the front dogs happened to be, cutting across corners and probably dragging their sledge sideways into a crevasse".Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 109–110. But despite their precautions Ninnis fell down and was rescued from three crevasses, once when they found they had pitched their tent on its lip.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 108–109. After Mawson slipped into a crevasse, they began to tie themselves to their sledges as a precaution.Bickel (2000), p. 102. Ninnis developed
photokeratitis Photokeratitis or ultraviolet keratitis is a painful eye condition caused by exposure of insufficiently protected eyes to the ultraviolet (UV) rays from either natural (e.g. intense sunlight) or artificial (e.g. the electric arc during welding) ...
(snow-blindness), which Mawson treated with
zinc sulfate Zinc sulfate is an inorganic compound. It is used as a dietary supplement to treat zinc deficiency and to prevent the condition in those at high risk. Side effects of excess supplementation may include abdominal pain, vomiting, headache, and ti ...
and
cocaine hydrochloride Cocaine (from , from , ultimately from Quechua: ''kúka'') is a central nervous system (CNS) stimulant mainly used recreationally for its euphoric effects. It is primarily obtained from the leaves of two Coca species native to South Amer ...
.Mawson (1996), p. 146. They were also losing dogs; one broke his leg and was shot, another fell ill, and a third was lost down a crevasse.Bickel (2000), p. 101. On 24 November, the party reached the eastern side of the glacier and ascended to the plateau.Mawson (1996), p. 151. On level ground again, they began to make quick progress. They awoke on the morning of 27 November to find another glacier (later known as the Ninnis Glacier) far larger than the first.Bickel (2000), p. 105.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 110. As with the first glacier, they had to unhitch the dogs from the sledges and slowly make the treacherous descent. Once at the bottom of the glacier they spent four days crossing fields of crevasses, battling strong winds and poor light that made navigation difficult.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 110–111. In the harsh conditions, the dogs began to grow restless; one of them, Shackleton, tore open the men's food bag and devoured a pack of butter, crucial for their nourishment to supplement the hoosh.Bickel (2000), p. 106. On 30 November, the party reached the eastern limit of the glacier and began the ascent to the plateau beyond, only to find themselves confronted at the top by sastrugi so sharp-edged the dogs were useless.Bickel (2000), p. 107. Worse still, temperatures rose to , melting the snow and making pulling difficult; the party switched to travelling at night to avoid the worst of the conditions.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 112. From atop the ridge on the eastern side of the Ninnis Glacier, Mawson began to doubt the accuracy of the reports of land to the east by
Charles Wilkes Charles Wilkes (April 3, 1798 – February 8, 1877) was an American naval officer, ship's captain, and explorer. He led the United States Exploring Expedition (1838–1842). During the American Civil War (1861–1865), he commanded ' during the ...
during the 1838–1842
United States Exploring Expedition The United States Exploring Expedition of 1838–1842 was an exploring and surveying expedition of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding lands conducted by the United States. The original appointed commanding officer was Commodore Thomas ap Catesby ...
. By Wilkes' reckoning, Mawson recorded in his diary, "We now appear to be off the real continent edge."Mawson (1988), p. 140. Concerned about overlap with Madigan's party to the north, he turned his party south. They made good progress initially, but beginning on 6 December a blizzard confined them to their tent for three days. On 9 December, they set off again, but Ninnis was struggling. He had developed neuralgia on the left side of his face and a whitlow on one of his fingers. The latter was making sleep difficult for him, and, on 13 December, Mawson lanced the finger.Bickel (2000), pp. 109–112.


Death of Ninnis

On the evening of 13 December Mawson and Mertz rearranged the sledges. The rear-most sledge, which had carried the most weight, was well-worn, and they decided to abandon it. The remaining supplies were re-distributed between the remaining two sledges. Most of the important supplies—the tent and most of the food—were stored on the new rear sledge;Bickel (2000), p. 113. if they were to lose a sledge down a crevasse, they reasoned, it would be the front, less-vital sledge.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 115. As the rear sledge was heavier, the strongest of remaining dogs were assigned to pull it. At the camp they left a small amount of supplies, including the abandoned sledge and a tent cover, without the floor or poles.Hall and Scanlan (2000), p. 126. By noon the next day they had covered from the Cape Denison hut. Mertz was ahead on skis, breaking trail. Mawson sat on the first sledge; Ninnis walked beside the second. In his diary that night, Mertz recounted: "Around 1 pm, I crossed a crevasse, similar to the hundred previous ones we had passed during the last weeks. I cried out "crevasse!", moved at right angle, and went forward. Around five minutes later, I looked behind. Mawson was following, looking at his sledge in front of him. I couldn't see Ninnis, so I stopped to have a better look. Mawson turned round to know the reason I was looking behind me. He immediately jumped out of his sledge, and rushed back. When he nodded his head, I followed him, driving back his sledge." Ninnis, his sledge and dog team had fallen through a crevasse wide with straight, ice walls.Mawson (1988), p. 148. On a ledge deep in the hole, Mawson and Mertz could see the bodies of two dogs—one still alive, but seriously injured—and the remains of Ninnis' sledge. There was no sign of their companion.Bickel (2000), p. 119. They measured the distance to the ledge as , too far for their ropes to reach.Ayres (1999), p. 73. "Dog ceased to moan shortly", wrote Mawson in his diary that night. "We called and sounded for three hours, then went a few miles to a hill and took position observations. Came back, called & sounded for an hour. Read the burial service."


Return

Along with the heavy-weather tent, most of their own food and all of the dogs' food, they had lost the
pickaxe A pickaxe, pick-axe, or pick is a generally T-shaped hand tool used for prying. Its head is typically metal, attached perpendicularly to a longer handle, traditionally made of wood, occasionally metal, and increasingly fiberglass. A stand ...
, the shovel, and Mertz's waterproof overpants and helmet. On Mawson's sledge they had their stove, fuel,
sleeping bag A sleeping bag is an insulated covering for a person, essentially a lightweight quilt that can be closed with a zipper or similar means to form a tube, which functions as lightweight, portable bedding in situations where a person is sleeping ...
s, and ten days' worth of food.Bickel (2000), p. 121. Their best immediate hope was to reach the camp of two days earlier where they had left the abandoned sledge and supplies, west. They reached it in five-and-a-half-hours, where Mertz used the tent cover, with the runners from the abandoned sledge and a ski as poles, to erect a shelter.Ayres (1999), p. 74. They were faced with two possible routes back to Cape Denison. The first option was to make for the coast, where they could supplement their meagre supplies with seal meat, and hope to meet with Madigan's party; that would considerably lengthen the journey, and the sea ice in summer could not be relied on. Or, pushing slightly to the south of their outward route, they could hope to avoid the worst of the crevasses and aim for speed.Ayres (1999), pp. 74–75. Mawson chose the inland route, which meant that in the absence of fresh seal meat they would have to resort to eating their remaining dogs.Ayres (1999), p. 75. The first dog—George—was killed the following morning, and of his meat some was fried for the men and the rest fed to the now starving dogs. "On the whole it was voted good" wrote Mawson of the meat, "though it had a strong, musty taste and was so stringy that it could not be properly chewed".Riffenburgh (2009), p. 121. Before setting off again they raised the flag—which they had forgotten to do at their furthest point—and claimed the land for the crown. With the temperature rising, they switched to travelling at night to take advantage of the harder surface the cold provided. With the five remaining dogs, Mawson and Mertz pushed on. Starving, the dogs began to struggle; two more—Johnson and Mary—were shot and divided between men and dogs over the following days.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 148. Mawson and Mertz found most of the meat tough, but enjoyed the liver; it, at least, was tender.Bickel (2000), p. 121. With the pulling power of the dogs now severely depleted, Mertz stopped making trail and instead helped Mawson to pull the sledge. Despite the challenges, they made good progress; in the first four nights, they travelled .Bickel (2000), p. 147. As they approached the Ninnis Glacier on 21 December, Haldane—once the largest and strongest of the dogs—was shot.Mawson (1988), p. 152.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 123–124.


Death of Mertz

Both men were suffering, but Mertz in particular started to feel ill. He complained of stomach pains, and this began to slow them down.Bickel (2000), p. 153. Pavlova was killed, leaving only one remaining dog. Mawson decided to lighten their sledge, and much of the equipment—including the camera, photographic films, and all of the scientific equipment save the
theodolite A theodolite () is a precision optical instrument for measuring angles between designated visible points in the horizontal and vertical planes. The traditional use has been for land surveying, but it is also used extensively for building and ...
—was abandoned.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 125. On 29 December, the day they cleared the Ninnis Glacier, the last dog was killed. Mawson recorded: "Had a great breakfast off Ginger's skull—thyroids and brain".Mawson (1988), p. 155.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 127. Two days later Mawson recorded that Mertz was "off colour"; Mertz wrote that he was "really tired ndshall write no more".Mawson (1988), p. 156. They made on 31 December, no progress for the following two days, and 5 miles more on 3 January. " hecold wind frost-bit Mertz's fingers" recorded Mawson, "and he is generally in a very bad condition. Skin coming off legs, etc—so had to camp though going was good." Not until 6 January did they make any more progress; they went before Mertz collapsed.Ayres (1999), pp. 76–77. The following day Mawson placed Mertz onto the sledge in his sleeping bag and continued, but was forced to stop and camp when Mertz's condition again deteriorated. Mawson recorded: "He is very weak, becomes more and more delirious, rarely being able to speak coherently. He will eat or drink nothing. At 8 pm he raves & breaks a tent pole. Continues to rave & call 'Oh Veh, Oh Veh' 'O weh!'', 'Oh dear!'for hours. I hold him down, then he becomes more peaceful & I put him quietly in the bag. He dies peacefully at about 2 am on morning of 8th."Mawson (1988), p. 158.Ayres (1999), p. 77. Strong winds prevented Mawson from continuing for two days. Instead, he prepared for travelling alone, removing the rearmost half from the sledge, and rearranging its cargo. To save having to carry excess
kerosene Kerosene, paraffin, or lamp oil is a combustible hydrocarbon liquid which is derived from petroleum. It is widely used as a fuel in aviation as well as households. Its name derives from el, κηρός (''keros'') meaning " wax", and was re ...
for the stove, he boiled the remainder of the dog meat. Dragging Mertz's body in the sleeping bag from the tent, Mawson constructed a rough cairn from snow blocks to cover it, and used two spare beams from the sledge to form a cross, which he placed on the top. The following day he read the burial service.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 131–133.


Alone

As the weather cleared on 11 January, Mawson continued west, estimating the distance back to Cape Denison at .Ayres (1999), p. 79. He travelled before pain in his feet forced him to stop; he found that the soles of his feet had separated as a complete layer. Applying lanolin to his feet and wrapping them in several pairs of socks under his boots, he continued.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 135. "My whole body is apparently rotting from lack of nourishment" he recorded, "frost-bitten fingertips festering, mucous membrane of nose gone, saliva glands of mouth refusing duty, skin coming off whole body".Mawson (1988), p. 159. Averaging around a day, he began to cross the Mertz Glacier. On 17 January, he broke through the lid of a crevasse, but the rope around his waist held him to the sledge and halted his fall.Bickel (2000), pp. 198–199. "I had time to say to myself "So this is the end" awson recorded expecting every moment the sledge to crash on my head and both of us to go to the bottom unseen below. Then I thought of the food left uneaten in the sledge—and, as the sledge stopped without coming down, I thought of Providence again giving me a chance. The chance looked very small as the rope had sawed into the overhanging lid, my finger ends all damaged, myself weak ... With the feeling that Providence was helping me I made a great struggle, half getting out, then slipping back again several times, but at last just did it. Then I felt grateful to Providence ... who has so many times already helped me."Mawson (1988), pp. 161–162.Ayres (1999), pp. 79–80. To save himself from future crevasses, Mawson constructed a rope ladder, which he carried over his shoulder and was attached to the sledge. It paid off almost immediately, and twice in the following days it allowed him to climb from crevasses.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 139. Once out of the Mertz Glacier his mileage increased, and on 28 January, Madigan Nunatak came into view. The following day, after travelling , a cairn covered with black cloth appeared about to his right. In it he found food and a note from Archibald Lang McLean, who along with
Frank Hurley James Francis "Frank" Hurley (15 October 1885 – 16 January 1962) was an Australian photographer and adventurer. He participated in a number of expeditions to Antarctica and served as an official photographer with Australian forces durin ...
and Alfred Hodgeman had been sent out by ''Aurora''s captain,
John King Davis John King Davis (19 February 1884 – 8 May 1967) was an English-born Australian explorer and navigator notable for his work captaining exploration ships in Antarctic waters as well as for establishing meteorological stations on Macquar ...
, to search for the Far Eastern Party.Ayres (1999), p. 81.Bickel (2000), p. 215. From the note, Mawson learned he was south-east of Aladdin's Cave, and near two further food depots. The note also reported on the other parties of the expedition—all had returned to the hut safely—and on
Roald Amundsen Roald Engelbregt Gravning Amundsen (, ; ; 16 July 1872 – ) was a Norwegian explorer of polar regions. He was a key figure of the period known as the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. Born in Borge, Østfold, Norway, Amundsen beg ...
's attainment of the South Pole in December 1911. The cairn had been left there just six hours before, when the three men had returned to the hut.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 142. Struggling on his injured feet and lacking
crampons A crampon is a traction device that is attached to footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing. Besides ice climbing, crampons are also used for secure travel on snow and ice, such as crossing glaciers, snowfields and ice ...
—he had thrown his away after he crossed the Mertz Glacier—Mawson took three days to reach Aladdin's Cave.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 143. Although supplies had been left in Aladdin's Cave—including fresh fruit—there were not the spare crampons he had expected. Without them he could not hope to descend the steep ice slope to the hut, and so he began to fashion his own, collecting nails from every available source and hammering them into wood from spare packing cases.Bickel (2000), pp. 229–230.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 144. Even when completed, a blizzard confined him to the cave, and only on 8 February was he able to begin the descent. Nearing the hut, he was spotted by three men working outside, who rushed up the hill to meet him.Ayres (1999), p. 82.


Aftermath

The ''Aurora'' arrived at Cape Denison on 13 January 1913. When Mawson's party failed to return, Davis sailed her east along the coast as far as the Mertz Glacier tongue, searching for the party. Finding no sign and reaching the end of the navigable ice-free water, they returned to Cape Denison. The oncoming winter concerned Davis, and on 8 February—just hours before Mawson's return to the hut—the ship departed Commonwealth Bay, leaving six men behind as a relief party. Upon Mawson's return, the ''Aurora'' was recalled by
wireless Wireless communication (or just wireless, when the context allows) is the transfer of information between two or more points without the use of an electrical conductor, optical fiber or other continuous guided medium for the transfer. The most ...
radio, but powerful katabatic winds sweeping down from the plateau prevented the ship's boat from reaching the shore to collect the men.Ayres (1999), pp. 86–87. The ''Aurora'' returned to Cape Denison the following summer, in mid-December, to take the men home.Bickel (2000), p. 257. The delay may have saved Mawson's life; he later told
Phillip Law Phillip Garth Law, AC, CBE, FAA, FTSE (21 April 1912 – 28 February 2010) was an Australian scientist and explorer who served as director of Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions (ANARE) from 1949 to 1966. Early life Law was b ...
, then-director of
Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions The Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions (ANARE ) is the historical name for the Australian Antarctic Program (AAp) administered for Australia by the Australian Antarctic Division (AAD). History Australia has had a long involv ...
, that he did not believe he could have survived the sea journey so soon after his ordeal.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 154. The cause of Mawson and Mertz's illnesses remains in part a mystery. At the time, McLean—the expedition's chief surgeon and one of the men who had remained at Cape Denison—attributed their sickness to
colitis Colitis is swelling or inflammation of the large intestine ( colon). Colitis may be acute and self-limited or long-term. It broadly fits into the category of digestive diseases. In a medical context, the label ''colitis'' (without qualification ...
; Mawson wrote in ''The Home of the Blizzard'', his official account of the expedition, that Mertz died of fever and
appendicitis Appendicitis is inflammation of the appendix. Symptoms commonly include right lower abdominal pain, nausea, vomiting, and decreased appetite. However, approximately 40% of people do not have these typical symptoms. Severe complications of a r ...
.Bickel (2000), p. 259.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 136. A 1969 study by Sir John Cleland and R. V. Southcott of the
University of Adelaide The University of Adelaide (informally Adelaide University) is a public research university located in Adelaide, South Australia. Established in 1874, it is the third-oldest university in Australia. The university's main campus is located on N ...
concluded that the symptoms Mawson described—hair, skin and weight loss, depression,
dysentery Dysentery (UK pronunciation: , US: ), historically known as the bloody flux, is a type of gastroenteritis that results in bloody diarrhea. Other symptoms may include fever, abdominal pain, and a feeling of incomplete defecation. Complications ...
and persistent skin infections—indicated the men had suffered
hypervitaminosis A Hypervitaminosis A refers to the toxic effects of ingesting too much preformed vitamin A (retinyl esters, retinol, and retinal). Symptoms arise as a result of altered bone metabolism and altered metabolism of other fat-soluble vitamins. Hypervi ...
, an excessive intake of
vitamin A Vitamin A is a fat-soluble vitamin and an essential nutrient for humans. It is a group of organic compounds that includes retinol, retinal (also known as retinaldehyde), retinoic acid, and several provitamin A carotenoids (most notably ...
. This is found in unusually high quantities in the livers of Greenland Huskies, of which both Mertz and Mawson consumed large amounts. While hypervitaminosis A is the generally accepted medical diagnosis for Mertz's death and Mawson's illness, the theory has its detractors.Riffenburgh (2009), p. 137. Law believed it was "completely unproven ... The symptoms that were described are exactly the ones you get from cold exposure. You don't have to predicate a theory of this sort to explain the soles coming off your feet."Ayres (1999), pp. 80–81. A 2005 article in '' The Medical Journal of Australia'' by Denise Carrington-Smith suggested it may have been "the psychological stresses related to the death of a close friend and the deaths of the dogs he had cared for", and a switch from a predominately vegetarian diet that killed Mertz, not hypervitaminosis A.Carrington-Smith (2005), p. 641. Suggestions of
cannibalism Cannibalism is the act of consuming another individual of the same species as food. Cannibalism is a common ecological interaction in the animal kingdom and has been recorded in more than 1,500 species. Human cannibalism is well documented, b ...
—that Mawson may have eaten Mertz after his death—surfaced during Mawson's lecture tour of the United States following the expedition. Several reports in American newspapers quoted Mawson as saying he considered eating Mertz, but these claims were denied by Mawson, who labelled them "outrageous" and an "invention".Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 131–132. Mawson's biographers believe the suggestion of cannibalism is probably wrong;
Beau Riffenburgh Beau Riffenburgh (born 1955) is an author and historian specializing in polar exploration. He is also an American football coach and author of books on football history. Early career A native of California, Riffenburgh was the Senior Writer and ...
notes that Mawson nursed Mertz for days, even at the possible risk to his own life. Moreover, he notes, Mawson had no way of knowing why Mertz died; eating his flesh could possibly have been very dangerous.Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 132–133. These sentiments are echoed by Philip Ayres, who also notes that with Mertz's death Mawson had sufficient rations without having to resort to cannibalism.Ayres (1999), pp. 78–79. Law, who knew Mawson well, believed "He was a man of very solid, conservative morals. It would have been impossible for him to have considered it."Ayres (1999), p. 78. In November 1913, shortly before the ''Aurora'' arrived to return them to Australia, the men remaining at Cape Denison erected a memorial cross for Mertz and Ninnis on Azimuth Hill to the north-west of the main hut. The cross, constructed from pieces of a broken radio mast, was accompanied by a plaque cut from wood from Mertz's bunk.Bickel (2000), p. 254. The cross still stands, although the crossbar has required reattaching several times, and the plaque was replaced with a replica in 1986. The two glaciers the Far Eastern Party crossed—previously unnamed—were named by Mawson for Mertz and Ninnis. At a celebration in the centre of Adelaide on his return from Antarctica, Mawson praised his dead companions: "The survivors might have an opportunity of doing something more, but these men had done their all". Mawson's return was celebrated at the
Adelaide Town Hall Adelaide Town Hall is a landmark building on King William Street in Adelaide, South Australia, Australia. The City of Adelaide Town Hall complex includes the Town Hall and the office building at 25 Pirie Street. Description and history Adelai ...
, in an event attended by the governor-general, Lord Denman. A typical speaker stated that "Mawson has returned from a journey that was absolutely unparalleled in the history of exploration—one of the greatest illustrations of how the sternest affairs of Nature were overcome by the superb courage, power and resolve of man".Riffenburgh (2009), pp. 177–178. Including the Far Eastern Party, sledging parties from the Cape Denison base covered over of previously unexplored land; the expedition's
Western Base Party The Western Base Party was a successful exploration party of the Australasian Antarctic Expedition. The eight-man Western Party was deposited by the SY ''Aurora'' on the Shackleton Ice Shelf at Queen Mary Land. The leader of the team was Frank ...
on the
Shackleton Ice Shelf Shackleton Ice Shelf is an extensive ice shelf fronting the coast of East Antarctica from 95° E to 105° E. It extends for an along-shore distance of about , projecting seaward about in the western portion and in the east. It occup ...
, under Frank Wild, covered a further .Ayres (1999), pp. 95–96. The expedition was the first to use wireless radio in the Antarctic—transmitting back to Australia via a relay station established on
Macquarie Island Macquarie Island is an island in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, about halfway between New Zealand and Antarctica. Regionally part of Oceania and politically a part of Tasmania, Australia, since 1900, it became a Tasmanian State Reserve in 197 ...
—and made several important scientific discoveries. First published in 1915, Mawson's account of the expedition, ''The Home of the Blizzard'', devotes two chapters to the Far Eastern Party;Mawson (1915), pp. 214–273. one contemporary reviewer commented that "undoubtedly to the general public the interest of the book centres in hismoving account".Mill (1915), p. 424. A later analysis by J. Gordon Hayes, while commending most of the expedition, was critical of Mawson's decision not to use skis, but Fred Jacka, writing in the ''
Australian Dictionary of Biography The ''Australian Dictionary of Biography'' (ADB or AuDB) is a national co-operative enterprise founded and maintained by the Australian National University (ANU) to produce authoritative biographical articles on eminent people in Australia's ...
'', suggests that "for Mawson and Ninnis, who were manoeuvring heavy sledges, this would have been difficult much of the time". In his 1976 foreword to Lennard Bickel's book on the Australasian Antarctic Expedition, explorer and mountaineer Sir
Edmund Hillary Sir Edmund Percival Hillary (20 July 1919 – 11 January 2008) was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer, and philanthropist. On 29 May 1953, Hillary and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers confirmed to have reache ...
described Mawson's journey as "probably the greatest story of lone survival in Polar exploration".


See also

*
Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration The Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration was an era in the exploration of the continent of Antarctica which began at the end of the 19th century, and ended after the First World War; the Shackleton–Rowett Expedition of 1921–1922 is often ci ...


References


Notes


Footnotes


Bibliography

* * * * * * * * *


External links


Australian Antarctic Division: Australasian Antarctic Expedition

Mawson's Huts Foundation

''The Home of the Blizzard''
at the Internet Archive {{Featured article 1912 in Antarctica 1913 in Antarctica Australasian Antarctic Expedition Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration History of the Ross Dependency