Chang-ao (), lit. translated as "long jacket" or "long ''ao''",
is a historical long-length, Chinese upper garment called ''ao'' (袄), which was worn by women. It is also known as ''da ao'' (大袄)
and ''chang
ru'' (长襦; long ''ru'' jacket) which appears to be the precursor of the ''ao''.
When paired with a skirt, the ''chang-ao'' forms a style of ''
aoqun
(;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
'' (i.e. jacket worn over a skirt).
This set of attire is worn as a formal attire.
History
In the
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
, the wearing of long-length upper jacket (ao) with skirts became more prevalent than the wearing of short upper jacket with skirts.
Several paintings, book illustrations, tomb artefacts, and references from books which dates from the late
Ming dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
show that women were wearing long-length ''ao'' with a skirt during this period.
The combination of long-length ''ao'' with skirt continued to exist in the
Qing dynasty
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing,, was a Manchu-led imperial dynasty of China and the last orthodox dynasty in Chinese history. It emerged from the Later Jin dynasty founded by the Jianzhou Jurchens, a Tungusic-speak ...
.
However the style of Ming dynasty ''ao'' continued to evolve under the influence of the
Manchu
The Manchus (; ) are a Tungusic East Asian ethnic group native to Manchuria in Northeast Asia. They are an officially recognized ethnic minority in China and the people from whom Manchuria derives its name. The Later Jin (1616–1636) an ...
fashion.
By the late Qing dynasty, it was typical for the ''ao'' to be waist-length.
The late Qing ''ao'' also had different types of opening (i.e. central front opening, slant opening), could have either narrow or wide sleeves and could have a
mandarin collar
A mandarin collar, standing collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. The style derives its Western name from the mandarin bureaucrats in Qing-era China that employed it as part of th ...
.
After the fall of the Qing dynasty, the ''ao'' continued to be worn in the
Republic of China
Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia, at the junction of the East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocean, with the People's Republic of China (PRC) to the northwest, Japan to the northeas ...
; the 1910s ''ao'' style was once again lengthen up to hip level, and sometimes up to the knees.
It was once again shortened in the 1920s to be waist-length.
Construction and design
The ''chang-ao'' was actually developed from
zhiduo during the
Ming Dynasty
The Ming dynasty (), officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties in Chinese history, imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1368 to 1644 following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming dynasty was the last ort ...
, and is worn over a skirt. It is wide-sleeved, shorter than zhiduo and has no side panels (暗擺) at the side slits (thus showing the skirt worn underneath). There is often an optional detachable protective huling (護領, lit. "protect collar") sewn to the collar. The huling can be of white or any other dark colours. The collar is of the same colour as the clothing.
Gallery
File:Daao3.jpg, Portrait of noblewomen wearing Chang-ao with mandarin square
A mandarin square ( zh, t=補子, s=补子, hp=bŭzi, w=putzŭ; mnc, m=, v=sabirgi; vi, Bổ tử; Chữ Nho: 補子; ko, 흉배/胸背, hyungbae), also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials ...
File:Mingshichangao.jpg, Portrait of noblewomen wearing round-collared Chang-ao with mandarin square
A mandarin square ( zh, t=補子, s=补子, hp=bŭzi, w=putzŭ; mnc, m=, v=sabirgi; vi, Bổ tử; Chữ Nho: 補子; ko, 흉배/胸背, hyungbae), also known as a rank badge, was a large embroidered badge sewn onto the surcoat of officials ...
File:Jili3.jpg, Women wearing Ming dynasty-style chang-ao (left and middle) vs waist-length ao (right) over skirts, 2013.
Related clothing
*
Ruqun
(;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
*
Qungua
See also
*
Hanfu
''Hanfu'' () is the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an upper-body garment with a long outer skirt), the (an upper-body garment with a long underskirt ...
*
List of Hanfu
A list of Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, in category of different clothing style. This page also addresses provides a list of garments. Informal wear
Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap a ...
*
Ru - Chinese upper garment
References
Chinese traditional clothing
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