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Academic dress is a traditional form of
clothing Clothing (also known as clothes, apparel, and attire) are items worn on the body. Typically, clothing is made of fabrics or textiles, but over time it has included garments made from animal skin and other thin sheets of materials and natural ...
for
academic An academy (Attic Greek: Ἀκαδήμεια; Koine Greek Ἀκαδημία) is an institution of secondary or tertiary higher learning (and generally also research or honorary membership). The name traces back to Plato's school of philosophy, ...
settings, mainly
tertiary Tertiary ( ) is a widely used but obsolete term for the geologic period from 66 million to 2.6 million years ago. The period began with the demise of the non-avian dinosaurs in the Cretaceous–Paleogene extinction event, at the start ...
(and sometimes secondary) education, worn mainly by those who have obtained a
university degree An academic degree is a qualification awarded to students upon successful completion of a course of study in higher education, usually at a college or university. These institutions commonly offer degrees at various levels, usually including unde ...
(or similar), or hold a status that entitles them to assume them (e.g., undergraduate students at certain old universities). It is also known as academical dress, academicals, and, in the
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territori ...
, as
academic regalia Academic dress is a traditional form of clothing for academic settings, mainly tertiary (and sometimes secondary) education, worn mainly by those who have obtained a university degree (or similar), or hold a status that entitles them to assum ...
. Contemporarily, it is commonly seen only at graduation ceremonies, but formerly academic dress was, and to a lesser degree in many
ancient universities The ancient universities are British and Irish medieval universities and early modern universities founded before the year 1600. Four of these are located in Scotland, two in England, and one in Ireland. The ancient universities in Britain and I ...
still is, worn daily. Today, the ensembles are distinctive in some way to each institution, and generally consist of a
gown A gown, from the Saxon word, ''gunna'', is a usually loose outer garment from knee-to-full-length worn by men and women in Europe from the Early Middle Ages to the 17th century, and continuing today in certain professions; later, the term ''gown ...
(also known as a
robe A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word ''robe'' derives from Middle English ''robe'' ("garment"), borrowed from Old French ''robe'' ("booty, spoil ...
) with a separate
hood Hood may refer to: Covering Apparel * Hood (headgear), type of head covering ** Article of academic dress ** Bondage hood, sex toy * Hoodie, hooded sweatshirt Anatomy * Clitoral hood, a hood of skin surrounding the clitoris * Hood, a flap of ...
, and usually a cap (generally either a
square academic cap The square academic cap, graduate cap, cap, mortarboard (because of its similarity in appearance to the mortarboard used by brickmasons to hold mortar) or Oxford cap is an item of academic dress consisting of a horizontal square board fixed upo ...
, a tam, or a
bonnet A Bonnet is a variety of headgear, hat or cap Specific types of headgear referred to as "bonnets" may include Scottish * Blue bonnet, a distinctive woollen cap worn by men in Scotland from the 15th-18th centuries And its derivations: ** Fea ...
). Academic dress is also worn by members of certain
learned societies A learned society (; also learned academy, scholarly society, or academic association) is an organization that exists to promote an academic discipline, profession, or a group of related disciplines such as the arts and science. Membership may ...
and institutions as official dress.


Overview and history

The academic dress found in most universities in the
Commonwealth of Nations The Commonwealth of Nations, simply referred to as the Commonwealth, is a political association of 56 member states, the vast majority of which are former territories of the British Empire. The chief institutions of the organisation are the ...
and the
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 states, a federal district, five major unincorporated territori ...
is derived from that of the universities of
Oxford Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
and
Cambridge Cambridge ( ) is a College town, university city and the county town in Cambridgeshire, England. It is located on the River Cam approximately north of London. As of the 2021 United Kingdom census, the population of Cambridge was 145,700. Cam ...
, which was a development of academic and clerical dress common throughout the medieval universities of
Europe Europe is a large peninsula conventionally considered a continent in its own right because of its great physical size and the weight of its history and traditions. Europe is also considered a subcontinent of Eurasia and it is located entirel ...
. In Portugal, following an ancient tradition, university regular students also use a specific dressing. The "Traje Académico", as it is known in Portuguese, is recognized by its almost totally black color and cape. But other student dresses did exist, including the unique blue attire of the students of the University of Algarve (UAlg) in use until at least to the 2010s.


Singapore


South Africa

Academic dress in South Africa varies from one institution to another, but generally follow UK patterns. A common distinction is for graduands in all degrees up to and including the master's degree to have black gowns, while the PhD candidate wears a scarlet gown. These days, academic dress is only used at graduation ceremonies. The wearing of traditional African attire, or modern clothes inspired by traditional attire, beneath the academic dress has been a distinct trend in recent years.


Spain

''This article is partially translated from :es:Indumentaria académica hispánica'' The typical Spanish academic dress has Latin origin. It has been regulated since 1850, when Queen
Isabella II Isabella II ( es, Isabel II; 10 October 1830 – 9 April 1904), was Queen of Spain from 29 September 1833 until 30 September 1868. Shortly before her birth, the King Ferdinand VII of Spain issued a Pragmatic Sanction to ensure the successi ...
established several rules about academic dress, according to the centuries-old Spanish custom. The typical Spanish academic dress for doctors is composed by: * A black long gown (''toga'') with a long row of buttons, made of satin and wool. It is worn over a black suit. * A
mozzetta The mozzetta (, plural ''mozzette''; derived from almuce) is a short elbow-length sartorial vestment, a cape that covers the shoulders and is buttoned over the frontal breast area. It is worn over the rochet or cotta as part of choir dress by s ...
(''muceta''), whose colour depends on the academic field. * Long cuffs (''puñetas'') of the same fabric and color than the mozetta, covered by white cotton lace. Those of the ''Rector'' (University president) are bright red or pink, and the lace is usually silken. The buttons are made of gold for the Rector and made of silver for the Deans. * An octagonal, tasseled biretta (''birrete''), whose colour depends on the academic field. Tassels of doctors holding more than one degree in separate fields alternate the corresponding colors. * White gloves. * A ring is usually worn by doctors. * A staff or scepter (''bastón'') made of American reed is carried by the university rector. * Medallions are often worn by postgraduates, doctors, professors, deans and the university rector. However, this academic dress is only used for the opening of the academic year and for PhD graduations or for doctorates '' honoris causa''. It is worn only by doctors, deans and the University Rector. For other graduates, the academic dress is often composed by a
mortarboard The square academic cap, graduate cap, cap, mortarboard (because of its similarity in appearance to the mortarboard used by brickmasons to hold mortar) or Oxford cap is an item of academic dress consisting of a horizontal square board fixed up ...
and a mozzetta (''muceta'') or a sash over the shoulder (''beca'') with the shield of the university and/or faculty. The colour of the mozzetta or the sash depends on the academic field. The colours used in Spain for the various academic fields are:


Sri Lanka

In Sri Lanka, the academic dress consists of gown, hood (post-graduate) and a garland (on graduation day). Universities that were affiliated to the former
University of Ceylon The University of Ceylon was the only university in Sri Lanka (earlier Ceylon) from 1942 until 1972. It had several constituent campuses at various locations around Sri Lanka. The University of Ceylon Act No. 1 of 1972, replaced it with the Unive ...
issue black gowns for graduates and post graduates; red gowns for masters and Phd graduates; crimson gowns for chancellors with a different colour gowns for senior academic faculty. These universities only issue
garland A garland is a decorative braid, knot or wreath of flowers, leaves, or other material. Garlands can be worn on the head or around the neck, hung on an inanimate object, or laid in a place of cultural or religious importance. Etymology From the ...
on the graduation day to new graduates and only issue mortar boards to chancellor, vice chancellor and registrars. Private universities issue mortar boards to graduates along with a hood in place of garland.


Sweden and Finland

Finland and Sweden have similar traditions when it comes to academic clothing. For important academic ceremonies
white tie White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal in traditional evening western dress codes. For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a wh ...
is usually worn, however, often with traditional headwear and gowns. Gowns are not generally used except by the
rector Rector (Latin for the member of a vessel's crew who steers) may refer to: Style or title *Rector (ecclesiastical), a cleric who functions as an administrative leader in some Christian denominations *Rector (academia), a senior official in an edu ...
as a symbol of office, if anyone. The regular student cap (Finnish: ''ylioppilaslakki'', Swedish: ''studentmössa'') usually has a white velvet crown, a black band and a black beak. The cap can be worn by anyone who has passed the
matriculation examination A matriculation examination or matriculation exam is a university entrance examination, which is typically held towards the end of secondary school. After passing the examination, a student receives a school leaving certificate recognising academi ...
and is acceptable wear for both formal and informal academic celebrations. Technology students wear a special kind of student cap called a ''teekkarilakki'' (Finnish) or ''teknologmössa'' (Swedish). It is similar to the traditional student cap, but features a tuft and a distinctive
cockade A cockade is a knot of ribbons, or other circular- or oval-shaped symbol of distinctive colours which is usually worn on a hat or cap. Eighteenth century In the 18th and 19th centuries, coloured cockades were used in Europe to show the alleg ...
to show which university the wearer is attending. Technology students generally wear their caps more frequently, and thus the tuft often symbolizes university engineering students. Although universities have different rules regarding the use of the cap, caps are generally not awarded to students until the completion of the first year of studies. The technology student's hat may also be seen on informal occasions, being worn with the student overall at many universities. In both countries many universities have doctoral hats for persons who have completed a PhD or similar degree. These usually resemble
top hats A top hat (also called a high hat, a cylinder hat, or, informally, a topper) is a tall, flat-crowned hat for men traditionally associated with formal wear in Western dress codes, meaning white tie, morning dress, or frock coat. Traditionally ...
and must be worn with
white tie White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal in traditional evening western dress codes. For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a wh ...
. Like other hats, they are not generally worn indoors, but they may be presented on a table. Events where the hat and white tie are worn include thesis defences, post-doctoral parties, ceremonial conferments of degrees, opening ceremonies and other formal ceremonies related to the university. At some universities, a
doctoral ring In Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish academia, a doctoral ring may be bestowed upon the conferral of a doctorate. Sweden Together with the doctoral hat or laurel wreath, it forms part of the academic regalia in Sweden. Swedish doctoral rings are m ...
is awarded together with the hat. In the Ingmar Bergman film '' Wild Strawberries'', one scene shows the conferral of a Jubilee doctor degree on the main character at the
University of Lund , motto = Ad utrumque , mottoeng = Prepared for both , established = , type = Public research university , budget = SEK 9 billion University of Helsinki The University of Helsinki ( fi, Helsingin yliopisto, sv, Helsingfors universitet, abbreviated UH) is a public research university located in Helsinki, Finland since 1829, but founded in the city of Turku (in Swedish ''Åbo'') in 1640 as the ...
a cape and a sword are commonly worn with the doctoral hat. Students of the student organization "Limes" may also be seen wearing a black cape.


Taiwan

Academic dress varies from university to university in Taiwan, generally consisting of cap and gown. Its use is limited to such special occasions as graduation ceremonies.


Thailand

In Thailand, there are five different styles of academic dress: (1) traditional Thai, (2) traditional American, (3) French (Paris), (4) modified American, and (5) modified British. Some universities prefer a traditional robe originated in the royal court, known as suea khrui. Traditionally, the robe is a one-piece open-fronted garment made with a mesh, faced and bordered with a velvet or felt band. Since the conception of
Chulalongkorn University Chulalongkorn University (CU, th, จุฬาลงกรณ์มหาวิทยาลัย, ), nicknamed Chula ( th, จุฬาฯ), is a public and autonomous research university in Bangkok, Thailand. The university was originally fo ...
, the traditional suea khrui was adopted for their graduates. Influenced by the colour of gowns used at
Oxford Oxford () is a city in England. It is the county town and only city of Oxfordshire. In 2020, its population was estimated at 151,584. It is north-west of London, south-east of Birmingham and north-east of Bristol. The city is home to the ...
, bachelor's' and master's gown are faced and bordered with a black felt band. Meanwhile, a scarlet felt band is reserved for doctors. There are patterns upon the felt band to denote different degrees and faculties. Other universities that utilise the traditional robe might, instead of a mesh, use another kind of fabric for their dress. Other universities in Thailand that use a traditional robe include *
Mae Fah Luang University Mae Fah Luang University (MFU), situated in Chiang Rai Province in northern Thailand, is named after the Princess Mother (Somdet Yah), Mae Fah Luang was the name given to her by the local people in Chiang Rai. It is an autonomous public universi ...
,
Chiang Rai Chiang Rai ( th, เชียงราย, ; nod, , เจียงฮาย, ) is the northernmost major city in Thailand, with a population of about 200,000 people. It is located in Mueang Chiang Rai District, Chiang Rai Province. Chiang Rai ...
; * Sukhothai Thammathirat Open University,
Nonthaburi Nonthaburi ( th, นนทบุรี, ) is the principal city of the district and province of the same name in Thailand. On 15 February 1936, Nonthaburi town municipality (''thesaban mueang'') was established, which only covered Suan Yai ...
; *
Khon Kaen University Khon Kaen University ( th, มหาวิทยาลัยขอนแก่น) or KKU (มข.) is a public research university, and it is one of the most prestigious universities in Thailand. The university was the first institution of highe ...
; * Naresuan University,
Phitsanulok Phitsanulok ( th, พิษณุโลก, ) is an important, historic city in lower northern Thailand and is the capital of Phitsanulok Province. Phitsanulok is home to Naresuan University and Pibulsongkram Rajabhat University, as well a ...
; * Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya; * Mahamakut Buddhist University,
Nakhon Pathom Nakhon Pathom ( th, นครปฐม, ) is a city (''thesaban nakhon'') in central Thailand, the former capital of Nakhon Pathom province. One of the most important landmarks is the giant Phra Pathommachedi. The city is also home to Thailand's ...
; * All King Mongkut's Universities of Technology; * Most Rajabhat Universities and all Rajamangala universities of technology. As a note, Mahachulalongkorn and Mahamakut Buddhist universities do not prescribe an academic dress for monks, nuns and clergymen. It is also customary that monks and ministers of religion do not wear a dress, when they are being admitted to the degree at other Thai universities. Other universities employs academic dress of the modified American pattern, with the exception at
Thammasat University Thammasat University ( Abrv: TU th, มธ.; th, มหาวิทยาลัยธรรมศาสตร์, , ) is a public research university in Thailand with campuses in Tha Phra Chan area of Phra Nakhon District near the Grand Pala ...
and
Kasetsart University Kasetsart University ( th, มหาวิทยาลัยเกษตรศาสตร์; ), commonly known and referred to as Kaset or KU, is a public research university in Bangkok, Thailand. It is the largest university in Thailand. It ...
. Thammasat University employs a plain black gown with different epitoge, a strip of cloth worn over the left shoulder, for distinct degrees. The number of fur bands upon the epitoge indicates the degree (i.e. 3 for doctors, 2 for masters and 1 for bachelors). The hat is not worn. Kasetsart University, on the other hand, retains the original American academic dress style. For bachelors, the dress comprises a plain sleeve gown with a coloured cord around the neck. This is different from many American universities, at which a scarf is used instead of a cord. Masters' gown exactly follows the American design. The sleeve is sewn shut at the end, with a slit to free the arm. Doctors' gown also follows the American tradition. The sleeve has three velvet bars to denote the seniority. The hat is included. Since most Thai universities do not fully understand the original American tradition, they usually use an American doctoral gown for their doctoral degree. By reducing the number of velvet bars on the sleeve, it is possible to get gowns for masters (2 bars) and bachelors (1 bar or none). Notable examples of this deviation include Ramkhamhaeng University, Burapha University, Mahidol University and the University of Phayao. Some universities even incorporate the hood into a pattern on the gown, including Suranaree University of Technology and Walailak University. This eliminates the need of additional hood. Prince of Songkhla University uses a gown which is heavily deviated from the original British style. Gowns for bachelors and masters are made of black stuff. Doctoral gowns are made from scarlet cloth. Instead of being open-fronted like ones in the United Kingdom and Australia, all gowns are close-fronted, probably due to the robemakers. The neckband is curved instead of being a chevron.
Silpakorn University Silpakorn University (SU.) ( th, มหาวิทยาลัยศิลปากร; ) is a national university in Thailand. The university was founded in Bangkok in 1943 by Tuscan–born art professor Corrado Feroci, who took the Thai name S ...
mixes a modified American gown (i.e. a close-fronted black gown with different number of bars on the sleeve) with an altered version of Oxford simple hood.


Tunisia

In
Tunisia ) , image_map = Tunisia location (orthographic projection).svg , map_caption = Location of Tunisia in northern Africa , image_map2 = , capital = Tunis , largest_city = capital , ...
,
University of Ez-Zitouna Ez-Zitouna University ( ar, جامعة الزيتونة, french: Université Ez-Zitouna) is a public ancient university in Tunis, Tunisia. The university originates in the Al-Zaytuna Mosque, founded at the end of the 7th century or in the early 8 ...
graduates wear an academic gown. Doctoral graduates in Islamic Sciences wear a jibba.
In other Tunisian universities, Like the Medicine university, Doctoral graduates wear an academic dress.


United Kingdom and Ireland

There is a distinction between different types of academical dress. Most recently, gowns, hoods and caps are categorised into their shape and patterns by the Groves classification system, which is based on Nicholas Groves' document, ''Hood and Gown Patterns''. This lists the various styles or patterns of academic dress and assigns them a code or a Groves Classification Number. For example, the Cambridge BA style gown is designated 2and a hood in the Cambridge full-shape is designated 1 etc. Because the universities are free to design their own academicals using a wide range of available gown, hood and cap patterns, colours and materials at their and the robemaker's disposal, the academicals of two given universities rarely clash with each other. The
Burgon Society :''Not be confused with the Dean Burgon Society, concerned with the advocacy of the King James Bible'' The Burgon Society is a learned society and educational charity for the study and research of academic dress. The society was founded in 2000 ...
was founded in 2000 to promote the study of academic dress. Its publications and activities examine the history and current use of academic dress and in 2011 it published the third edition of Shaw's reference book on British and Irish academical dress. The Society hosts a conference each spring at which recent research is presented. The modern gown is derived from the ''roba'' worn under the ''cappa clausa'', a garment resembling a long black cape. In early medieval times, all students at the universities were in at least
minor orders Minor orders are ranks of church ministry. In the Catholic Church, the predominating Latin Church formerly distinguished between the major orders —priest (including bishop), deacon and subdeacon—and four minor orders—acolyte, exorcist, lec ...
, and were required to wear the ''cappa'' or other clerical dress, and restricted to clothes of black or other dark colour. The gowns most commonly worn, that of the clerical type gowns of
bachelor's degree A bachelor's degree (from Middle Latin ''baccalaureus'') or baccalaureate (from Modern Latin ''baccalaureatus'') is an undergraduate academic degree awarded by colleges and universities upon completion of a course of study lasting three to six ...
s (BA and BS) and
master's degree A master's degree (from Latin ) is an academic degree awarded by universities or colleges upon completion of a course of study demonstrating mastery or a high-order overview of a specific field of study or area of professional practice.
s (MA and MS), are substantially the same throughout the English-speaking world. All are traditionally made of black cloth, (although occasionally the gown is dyed in one of the university's colours) and the material at the back of the gown is gathered into a yoke. The Bachelor's gown has bell-shaped sleeves, while the Master's gown has long sleeves closed at the end, with the arm passing through a slit above the elbow.Shaw (1995); pp. 4–7 There are two distinctive shapes used in the UK for doctor's gowns; the Oxford doctor's shape and the Cambridge doctor's shape. The former has bell-shaped sleeves, the latter has long open sleeves. Another rarer form is the Cambridge Doctor of Music dress gown which is a pattern between the two. The other form of doctor's gown is the undress gown. This is a black gown worn for less formal occasions such as lectures. This type of gown is rarely seen or worn nowadays as many wear the dress gown instead; however, the undress gown still plays a part in the older universities where academic dress is usually worn. Undergraduates at many older universities also wear gowns; the most common essentially a smaller knee-length version of the Bachelor's gown, or the Oxford Commoners gown which is a sleeveless lay type gown and has two streamers at the back at Oxford. At Cambridge, most colleges have their own distinctive design of gown. Undergraduates at St Andrews, with the exception of theology students, commonly wear scarlet woollen gowns with velvet collars. Undergraduate gowns are seldom worn (even in institutions that prescribe them) nowadays except in the older universities. Another form of dress, now rarely seen, is the habit, which is worn over a black gown. Only Oxford, Cambridge, Durham and Newcastle use habits and mainly reserve their use for very formal ceremonial occasions and to a specific group of academics or officials. The hood was originally a functional garment, worn to shield the head from the elements. In the English tradition, it has developed to an often bright and decorative garment worn only on special occasions. Hoods comprise two basic patterns: full shape or simple shape. The traditional full-shape hood consists of a cape,
cowl A cowl is an item of clothing consisting of a long, hooded garment with wide sleeves, often worn by monks. Originally it may have referred simply to the hooded portion of a cloak. In contemporary usage, however, it is distinguished from a clo ...
, and liripipe, as is used at Cambridge. At Oxford, the bachelors' and masters' hoods use simple hoods that have lost their cape and retain only the cowl and liripipe. The colour and lining of hoods in academic dress represents the rank and/or faculty of the wearer. In many Commonwealth universities bachelors wear hoods edged or lined with white rabbit fur, while masters wear hoods lined with coloured silk (originally ermine or other expensive fur). Doctors' hoods are normally made of scarlet cloth and lined with coloured silk. Faculty colours were introduced by the University of London and many universities followed suit. The academic cap or square, commonly known as the mortarboard, has come to be symbolic of academia. In some universities it can be worn by graduates and undergraduates alike. It is a hat consisting of a skullcap surmounted by a flat square of stiffened cloth, the board; a tassel is fixed to a button in the centre of the board. The mortarboard may also be referred to as a trencher cap (or simply trencher). The
tassel A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric and clothing decoration. It is a universal ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the globe. History and use In the Hebrew Bible, the Lord spoke to Moses instructing him to ...
is composed of a cluster of silk threads which are wrapped together with a cord which is attached to the button affixed to the centre of the headpiece. The loose strands are allowed to fall freely over the board edge, typically falling over the left front side of the cap. Often the strands are plaited together to form a cord with the end threads left untied. In many universities, holders of doctorates wear a soft-crowned, round-brimmed headpiece known as a Tudor bonnet or tam, rather than a trencher. Other types of hats used, especially in some universities in the UK, are the John Knox cap (mostly at Scottish universities), the
Bishop Andrewes cap The Bishop Andrewes cap is a recent reinvention of the ancient style of academic cap as part of academic dress before it developed into the modern mortarboard as it is known today.Goff; p.22-23 The cap is named after Bishop Lancelot Andrewes who ma ...
(a reinvention of the ancient form of the mortarboard, worn by Cambridge
Doctors of Divinity Doctor or The Doctor may refer to: Personal titles * Doctor (title), the holder of an accredited academic degree * A medical practitioner, including: ** Physician ** Surgeon ** Dentist ** Veterinary physician ** Optometrist *Other roles ...
DD's) and the pileus (at Sussex). In some universities, such as Oxford, women may wear an Oxford ladies' cap. Officers of the universities generally wear distinctive and more elaborate dress. The Chancellor and the
Vice-Chancellor A chancellor is a leader of a college or university, usually either the executive or ceremonial head of the university or of a university campus within a university system. In most Commonwealth and former Commonwealth nations, the chancellor ...
may wear a black damask lay type gown (sometimes with a long train) trimmed with gold or silver
lace Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern, made by machine or by hand. Generally, lace is divided into two main categories, needlelace and bobbin lace, although there are other types of lace, such as knitted o ...
and
frogs A frog is any member of a diverse and largely carnivorous group of short-bodied, tailless amphibians composing the order Anura (ανοὐρά, literally ''without tail'' in Ancient Greek). The oldest fossil "proto-frog" '' Triadobatrachus'' is ...
. They wear a velvet mortarboard, similarly trimmed with gold braid and tassel. Other than this gown, they may have other distinct forms of dress, such as the scarlet ''cappa clausa'' or
cope The cope (known in Latin as ''pluviale'' 'rain coat' or ''cappa'' 'cape') is a liturgical vestment, more precisely a long mantle or cloak, open in front and fastened at the breast with a band or clasp. It may be of any liturgical colour. A c ...
worn in certain circumstances by the Vice-Chancellor of Cambridge or his/her deputy and by higher doctors presenting candidates for degrees, which was once worn by
Doctors of Divinity Doctor or The Doctor may refer to: Personal titles * Doctor (title), the holder of an accredited academic degree * A medical practitioner, including: ** Physician ** Surgeon ** Dentist ** Veterinary physician ** Optometrist *Other roles ...
. In the past, Chancellors may also wear full court dress with breeches and court shoes like that of the
Lord Chancellor The lord chancellor, formally the lord high chancellor of Great Britain, is the highest-ranking traditional minister among the Great Officers of State in Scotland and England in the United Kingdom, nominally outranking the prime minister. Th ...
of Great Britain. At degree ceremonies, graduands often dress in the academic dress of the degree they are about to be admitted to prior to the actual graduation ceremony. This is not the case at several of the older universities in the UK, most notably, Oxford, Cambridge and St Andrews which have their own distinct traditions. In addition to universities and colleges, a number of British professional bodies, such as the
Institute of Biology The Institute of Biology (IoB) was a professional body for biologists, primarily those working in the United Kingdom. The Institute was founded in 1950 by the Biological Council: the then umbrella body for Britain's many learned biological societie ...
and the
Institute of Physics The Institute of Physics (IOP) is a UK-based learned society and professional body that works to advance physics education, research and application. It was founded in 1874 and has a worldwide membership of over 20,000. The IOP is the Physic ...
grant academic dress to their members.


United States

Academic regalia in the United States has been influenced by the academic dress traditions of Europe. There is an Inter-Collegiate code which sets out a detailed uniform scheme of academic regalia followed by most, though some institutions do not adhere to it entirely, and fewer still ignore it. The practice of wearing academic regalia in the United States dates to the Colonial Colleges period, and was heavily influenced by European practices and styles.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Historical Overview'' Students of most colonial colleges were required to wear the "college habit" at most times – a practice that lasted until the eve of the
American Civil War The American Civil War (April 12, 1861 – May 26, 1865; also known by other names) was a civil war in the United States. It was fought between the Union ("the North") and the Confederacy ("the South"), the latter formed by states ...
in many institutions of higher learning.Smagorinsky. ''The Regalia of Princeton University: Pomp, Circumstance, and Accoutrements of Academia''. Page 5. In some rare instances the practice has persisted, such as at Sewanee, where members of the student honor society, along with most professors, continue to wear the gown to class. After the Civil War, academic regalia was generally only worn at ceremonies or when representing the institution. There was not, however, any standardization among the meanings behind the various costumes. In 1893, an Intercollegiate Commission made up of representatives from leading institutions and chaired by President of Columbia
Seth Low Seth Low (January 18, 1850 – September 17, 1916) was an American educator and political figure who served as the mayor of Brooklyn from 1881 to 1885, the president of Columbia University from 1890 to 1901, a diplomatic representative of t ...
was created, to establish an acceptable system of academic dress. The commission met at
Columbia University Columbia University (also known as Columbia, and officially as Columbia University in the City of New York) is a private research university in New York City. Established in 1754 as King's College on the grounds of Trinity Church in Manhatt ...
in 1895 and adopted a code of academic regalia, which prescribed the cut and style and materials of the gowns, as well as determined the colors which were to represent the different fields of learning. These rules were soon adopted by Columbia's peer institutions, including Harvard, Yale, and Princeton. In 1932 the
American Council on Education The American Council on Education (ACE) is a nonprofit 501(c)(3) U.S. higher education association established in 1918. ACE's members are the leaders of approximately 1,700 accredited, degree-granting colleges and universities and higher educatio ...
(ACE) authorized the appointment of a committee to determine whether revision and completion of the academic code adopted by the conference of the colleges and universities in 1895 is desirable at this time, and, if so, to draft a revised code and present a plan for submitting the code to the consideration of the institutional members of the council. The committee reviewed the situation and approved a code for academic costumes that has been in effect since that year. A ''Committee on Academic Costumes and Ceremonies'', appointed by the American Council on Education in 1959, again reviewed the academic dress code and made several changes. Although academic dress is now rarely worn outside commencement ceremonies or other academic rituals such as
encaenia Encaenia (; ) is an academic or sometimes ecclesiastical ceremony, usually performed at colleges or universities. It generally occurs some time near the annual ceremony for the general conferral of degrees to students. The word is from Latin, mean ...
in the U.S. graduation ceremonies have gained popularity and have expanded from high school graduations to middle school, elementary school and kindergarten graduation ceremonies. Bachelors' and
master's A master's degree (from Latin ) is an academic degree awarded by universities or colleges upon completion of a course of study demonstrating mastery or a high-order overview of a specific field of study or area of professional practice.
gowns in the United States are similar to their counterparts in the United Kingdom, though bachelor's gowns are now designed to be worn closed, and all are at least mid-calf length to ankle-length.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Gowns'' The masters' gown sleeve is
oblong An oblong is a non-square rectangle. Oblong may also refer to: Places * Oblong, Illinois, a village in the United States * Oblong Township, Crawford County, Illinois, United States * A strip of land on the New York-Connecticut border in the Unit ...
and, though the base of the sleeve hangs down in the typical manner, it is square cut at the rear part of the oblong shape. The front part has an arc cut away, and there is a slit for the wrist opening, but the rest of the arc is closed. The shape is evocative of the square-cut liripipe incorporated into many academic hoods (''see'', below). The master's gown is designed to be worn open or closed. Doctoral robes are typically black, although some schools use robes in the school's colours. The Code calls for the outside shell of the hood (''see'', below) to remain black in that case, however. In general, doctoral gowns are similar to the gowns worn by bachelor's graduates, with the addition of three velvet bands on the sleeves and velvet facing running down the front of the gown. The Code calls for the gown trim to be either black or the colour designated for the field of study in which the doctorate was earned (see '' Inter-Collegiate colors''). However, in the case of the degree of
Doctor of Philosophy A Doctor of Philosophy (PhD, Ph.D., or DPhil; Latin: or ') is the most common degree at the highest academic level awarded following a course of study. PhDs are awarded for programs across the whole breadth of academic fields. Because it is ...
(PhD), although it is awarded for study in any number of fields, the dark blue velvet of philosophy is always used regardless of the particular field studied. For example, if not choosing black trim, a PhD in theology would wear velvet gown trim in dark blue, while a Doctor of Theology (Th.D.) would wear scarlet trim, if not choosing black. The robes have full sleeves, instead of the bell sleeves of the bachelor's gown. Some gowns expose a necktie or
cravat Cravat, cravate or cravats may refer to: * Cravat (early), forerunner neckband of the modern necktie * Cravat, British name for what in American English is called an ascot tie * Cravat bandage, a triangular bandage * Cravat (horse) (1935–1954), a ...
when closed, while others take an almost cape-like form. It is designed to be worn open or closed in the front. The Code calls for the shell material of the hood to match the robe, and for the colour to be black regardless of the colour of the robe being worn.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Hoods'' The interior lining – generally silk – displays the colours of the institution from which the wearer received the degree, in a pattern prescribed by it (usually, if more than one colour is used,
chevrons Chevron (often relating to V-shaped patterns) may refer to: Science and technology * Chevron (aerospace), sawtooth patterns on some jet engines * Chevron (anatomy), a bone * '' Eulithis testata'', a moth * Chevron (geology), a fold in rock l ...
or equal divisions).Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Hoods'';''Linings'' The opening of the hood is trimmed in
velvet Weave details visible on a purple-colored velvet fabric Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word ''velvety'' means ...
or
velveteen Velveteen (or velveret) is a type of cloth made to imitate velvet, which is a type of pile fabric. Normally cotton, the term is sometimes applied to a mixture of silk and cotton. Some velveteens are a kind of fustian, having a rib of velvet pile ...
.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Hoods''; ''Trimmings'' In most American colleges and universities, the colour of the velvet hood trimming is distinctive of the academic field – or as closely related as possible – to which the degree earned pertains (see '' Inter-Collegiate colors'').Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Additional Guidance on Costume'' Many institutions, particularly larger ones, have dispensed with the bachelor's hood at commencement ceremonies altogether, though a graduate is still entitled to wear one once the degree is conferred.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Some Permissible Exceptions'' Headwear is an important component of cap-and-gown, and the academic costume is not complete without it. The headwear will vary with the level of academic achievement and, to some extent, on the individual academic institution's specifications. For caps, the mortarboard is recommended in the Code, and the material required to match the gown.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Caps'' The exception—velvet—is reserved for the doctor's degree only, seen in the form of a multiple-sided (4, 6, or 8) tam, but the four-sided mortarboard-shaped tam in velvet is what the Code seems to recommend here. The only colour called for is black, in all cases. The tassel worn on the mortarboard or a tam seems to provide, by tradition, the greatest opportunity for latitude in American academic dress. It has been black, or represented the university's colours, or the colours of the specific college, or the discipline. The tassel has also been used to indicate membership in national honour societies or other awards. There is at some colleges and universities a practice of moving the tassel from one side to the other on graduating, but this is a modern innovation that would be impractical out of doors due to the vagaries of the wind. For doctoral and masters students, the tassel commonly begins and remains on the left.Sullivan. The Academic Costume Code, ''Wearing the Costume'' The colours allocated to the various fields of learning have been largely standardized in the United States by the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume, and accepted by the American Council on Education in its ''Academic Costume Code.'' Some of the more common colours seen are that
liberal arts Liberal arts education (from Latin "free" and "art or principled practice") is the traditional academic course in Western higher education. ''Liberal arts'' takes the term '' art'' in the sense of a learned skill rather than specifically th ...
is represented by white, science by golden yellow, medicine by green, law by purple, theology by scarlet, and philosophy (including all PhD degrees) by dark blue. A distinction is made in the code, which calls for a graduate to display the colour of the subject of the degree obtained, not the degree itself. For example, if a graduate is awarded a
Bachelor of Arts Bachelor of arts (BA or AB; from the Latin ', ', or ') is a bachelor's degree awarded for an undergraduate program in the arts, or, in some cases, other disciplines. A Bachelor of Arts degree course is generally completed in three or four year ...
(BA) degree specifically in business the trimming should be drab, representing commerce/accountancy/business, rather than white, representing the broader arts/letters/humanities; the same method is true of master's degrees and doctorates. However, in 1986, the American Council on Education updated the Code and added the following sentence clarifying the use of the colour dark blue for the
Doctor of Philosophy A Doctor of Philosophy (PhD, Ph.D., or DPhil; Latin: or ') is the most common degree at the highest academic level awarded following a course of study. PhDs are awarded for programs across the whole breadth of academic fields. Because it is ...
degree, which is awarded in any number of fields: "In the case of the Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) degree, the dark blue colour is used to represent the mastery of the discipline of learning and scholarship in any field that is attested to by the awarding of the degree, and it is not intended to represent the field of philosophy." A number of other items such as cords, stoles,
aiguillette An aiguillette (, from '' aiguille'', "needle"), also spelled , or , is a cord with metal tips or lace tags, or the decorative tip itself. Functional or purely decorative fasteners of silk cord with metal tips were popular in the 16th and e ...
s, etc. representing various academic achievements or other honours are also worn at the discretion of some degree-granting institutions. Technically, however, the ACE code does not allow their use on or over academic regalia.


Pontifical universities

Academic dress for
pontifical universities A pontifical university is an ecclesiastical university established or approved directly by the Holy See, composed of three main ecclesiastical faculties (Theology, Philosophy and Canon Law) and at least one other faculty. These academic institute ...
tends to vary by the host country. Traditionally, for doctors of a pontifical university or faculty "the principal mark of a Doctor's dignity is the four horned biretta." Under the old Code of Canon Law, in commencement ceremonies and other academic settings, doctors from pontifical faculties and universities had a canonical right to wear the doctoral biretta, as stated in can. 1378, and explained in commentary 262 of the Commentarium Codicis Iuris Canonici as follows: There is no equivalent canon in the current Code of Canon Law promulgated in 1983, but the tradition remains. The Sartoria Gammerelli offers, in line with the updated stipulations of the Pontifical Gregorian University, birettas lined with the following assorted piping and tufts depending on which faculty one is graduated from: Green for Canon Law, Red for Sacred Theology, Blue for Philosophy, and Orange for Social Sciences. Three-horned birettas are to be used by Licentiates, four-horned for Doctors. Academic dress for the Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas, ''Angelicum'' graduates consists of a black toga or academic gown with trim to follow the color of the faculty, and an academic ring. For the doctoral degree a four corned biretta is to be worn, and for the Licentiate degree a three corned biretta is to be worn. Se
Academic regalia of the Pontifical University of St. Thomas Aquinas
The 'traditional' biretta at the Pontifical University of Saint Thomas Aquinas, ''Angelicum'', is white, to correspond to the white Dominican habit. Also, the academic senate of the ''Angelicum'' in its May 2011 meeting indicated that the black biretta may be used with trim and pom in the color of the particular faculty. A three-peaked black biretta with appropriately colored piping may be similarly used by those receiving the licentiate degree (S.T.L., Ph.L.).


See also

* Academic procession *
Academic stole An academic stole is a vestment used by various organizations to denote academic achievement. Its use includes membership of a professional organization, a high school valedictorian award, and adorns the academic regalia representing some univer ...
*
Burgon Society :''Not be confused with the Dean Burgon Society, concerned with the advocacy of the King James Bible'' The Burgon Society is a learned society and educational charity for the study and research of academic dress. The society was founded in 2000 ...
* Chinese academic dress * Ede & Ravenscroft *
Encaenia Encaenia (; ) is an academic or sometimes ecclesiastical ceremony, usually performed at colleges or universities. It generally occurs some time near the annual ceremony for the general conferral of degrees to students. The word is from Latin, mean ...
* Graduation * Groves classification system * The Central Institute London Academic dress details for the following universities are available via these links: Canada * Academic dress of McGill University United Kingdom and Ireland * Academic dress of the University of Bristol * Academic dress of the University of Cambridge * Academic dress of Durham University * Academic dress of the University of Edinburgh * Academic dress of the University of Exeter * Academic dress of the University of Hertfordshire * Academic dress of Imperial College London * Academic dress of the University of Kent *
Academic dress of King's College London Academic dress of King's College London describes the robes, gowns, and hoods worn by undergraduates, graduates and associates of King's College London. After being vested the power to award its own degrees from the University of London in 2006 ...
* Academic dress of the University of Leeds * Academic dress of Liverpool John Moores University *
Academic dress of the University of London Academic dress of the University of London describes the robes, gowns and hoods which are prescribed by the university for its graduates and undergraduates. History The University of London was created out of a partnership between University Colle ...
* Academic dress of the University of Manchester *
Academic dress of the University of Nottingham In general, the academic dress of the University of Nottingham dates from the award of its Royal Charter in 1948. Prior to this date, (the then) University College, Nottingham taught students for University of London examinations and "Nottingham ...
*
Academic dress of the University of Oxford The University of Oxford has a long tradition of academic dress, which continues to the present day. When academic dress is worn Unlike most other universities, which only usually require it during specific university ceremonies such as gra ...
* Academic dress of the University of St Andrews * Academic dress of the University of Wales * Academic dress of the University of Wales, Lampeter * Academic dress of the University of Warwick *
Academic dress of the University of Dublin Academic dress prescribed at the University of Dublin and its sole constituent college, Trinity College, follows a relatively complex protocol which, nonetheless, shares some particular characteristics with other universities in Ireland and with ...
* Undergraduate gowns in Scotland * Lambeth degree academic dress protocol Others * Academic dress of La Trobe University * Academic dress of the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology * Academic dress of Columbia University * Academic dress of Harvard University * Academic dress of Stanford University * Academic dress of universities in Queensland, Australia * Academic dress of University of Melbourne


Bibliography

Books * Christianson, Bruce (2006), "Academic Dress in the University of Hertfordshire". Hertfordshire, England: University of Hertfordshire. * Fowler, J. T. (1904), ''Durham University: earlier foundations and present colleges''. London: F. E. Robinson & Co. * Goff, Philip (1999), ''University of London Academic Dress''. London: University of London Press. * Shaw, George W. (1966, 1995), ''Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities''. Chichlester: Philmore & Co. Ltd. * Groves, Nicholas (2011), ''Shaw's Academical Dress of Great Britain and Ireland'', 3rd ed. London: Burgon Society. * Groves, Nicholas (2002, 2003, 2008, 2010), ''Key to the Identification of Academic Hoods of the British Isles''. London: Burgon Society. * Groves, Nicholas; Kersey, John (2002), ''Academical Dress of Music Colleges and Societies of Musicians in the United Kingdom''. Norfolk: Burgon Society. * Hargreaves-Mawdsley, W.N. (1963), ''A History of Academical Dress in Europe''. Oxford: Clarendon Press. * Venables, J. (2009), ''Academic Dress of the University of Oxford'', 9th ed. Oxford: Shepherd & Woodward. * Cox, Noel, ''Academical Dress in New Zealand: A Study'' ( V.D.M. Verlag Dr. Müller Aktiengesellschaft & Co. K.G., Saarbrücken, 2010; ) Journals * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2004), ''The Burgon Society Annual 2003''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2005), ''The Burgon Society Annual 2004''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2006), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 5''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2008), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 6''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2008), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 7''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2009), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 8''. * Kerr, Alex (ed.) et al. (2012), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 10''. * Powell, Michael (ed.) et al. (2002), ''The Burgon Society Annual 2001''. * Powell, Michael (ed.) et al. (2003), ''The Burgon Society Annual 2002''. * Wolgast, Stephen L., Kerr, Alex (eds) et al. (2011), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 9 – Special North American issue''. * Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2012), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 11''. * Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2013), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 12''. * Wolgast, Stephen L. (ed.) et al. (2014), ''Transactions of the Burgon Society: Volume 13''. Electronic * Sullivan, Eugene (ed.
''An Academic Costume Code and An Academic Ceremony Guide''
American Council on Education. Reprinted with permission from ''American Universities and Colleges'', 15th Edition (1997). Walter de Gruyter, Inc. * Smagorinsky, Margaret.
The REGALIA of Princeton University: Pomp, Circumstance, and Accountrements of Academia
'. The Trustees of Princeton University (Printed by Office of Printing and Mailing), 1994. Accessed 26 September 2008.


Further reading

* American Council on Education staff (1997). ''American Universities and Colleges'', 15th Edition. Walter de Gruyter, Inc. * Belting, Natalia Maree (1956)
''The History of Caps and Gowns''
New York : Collegiate Cap & Gown Co. via
Internet Archive The Internet Archive is an American digital library with the stated mission of "universal access to all knowledge". It provides free public access to collections of digitized materials, including websites, software applications/games, music, ...
* Franklyn, C.A.H. (1970), ''Academical Dress from the Middle Ages to the Present Day Including Lambeth Degrees''. Lewes: WE Baxter. * Haycraft, F.W. (1948), 4th ed. rev. Stringer, E.W Scobie, ''The Degrees and Hoods of the World's Universities and Colleges''. Cheshunt Press. * Rashdall, H. (1895, 1936), ''The Universities of Europe in the Middle Ages''. Oxford: Clarendon Press. * Rogers, F.R.S., Franklyn, C.A.H., Shaw, G.W., Boyd, H.A. (1972), ''The Degrees and Hoods of the World's Universities and Colleges''. Lewes: WE Baxter. * Smith, H.H., Sheard, K. (1970), ''Academic Dress and Insignia of the World''. Cape Town: A.A. Balkema. * Wood, T.W. (1882), ''The Degrees, Gowns and Hoods of the British, Colonial, Indian and American Universities and Colleges''. London: Thomas Pratt & Sons.


References


External links


"Academic Dress" mini portal
– A list of internet resources compiled by ''The New York Times''
Academic Costume Code and Ceremony Guide
from ''American Universities and Colleges, 15th Edition,'' by Eugene Sullivan. {{Authority control