Buffalo National River
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The Buffalo River, located in Northern
Arkansas Arkansas ( ) is a landlocked state in the South Central United States. It is bordered by Missouri to the north, Tennessee and Mississippi to the east, Louisiana to the south, and Texas and Oklahoma to the west. Its name is from the O ...
, was the first
National River The National Park System of the United States is the collection of physical properties owned or administered by the National Park Service. The collection includes all national parks and most national monuments, as well as several other types of ...
to be designated in the
United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country Continental United States, primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 U.S. state, states, a Washington, D.C., ...
. The Buffalo River is long. The lower flow within the boundaries of an area managed by the
National Park Service The National Park Service (NPS) is an agency of the United States federal government within the U.S. Department of the Interior that manages all national parks, most national monuments, and other natural, historical, and recreational properti ...
, where the stream is designated the Buffalo National River. The river flows through Newton, Searcy, Marion, and Baxter Counties, from west to east. The river originates in the highest part of the
Boston Mountains The Boston Mountains is a Level III ecoregion designated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S. states of Arkansas and Oklahoma. Part of the Ozarks, the Boston Mountains are a deeply dissected plateau. The ecoregion is steeper ...
of the
Ozarks The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the extreme southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover a significant port ...
, flows out onto the Springfield Plateau near the historic community of Erbie, and finally crosses a portion of the
Salem Plateau Salem may refer to: Places Canada Ontario * Bruce County ** Salem, Arran–Elderslie, Ontario, in the municipality of Arran–Elderslie ** Salem, South Bruce, Ontario, in the municipality of South Bruce * Salem, Dufferin County, Ontario, part ...
just before joining the White River. The Park is home to the state's only elk herd. The upper section of the river in the
Ozark National Forest The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the extreme southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover a significant port ...
is managed by the
U.S. Forest Service The United States Forest Service (USFS) is an agency of the U.S. Department of Agriculture that administers the nation's 154 national forests and 20 national grasslands. The Forest Service manages of land. Major divisions of the agency inc ...
and is designated as a National Scenic River and a National Wild River; that section is not part of the area managed as a park by the Park Service but is managed as a part of the Ozark National Forest. The Buffalo National River was established by an
Act of Congress An Act of Congress is a statute enacted by the United States Congress. Acts may apply only to individual entities (called private laws), or to the general public ( public laws). For a bill to become an act, the text must pass through both house ...
on March 1, 1972, ending the recurring plans of the
U.S. Army Corps of Engineers , colors = , anniversaries = 16 June (Organization Day) , battles = , battles_label = Wars , website = , commander1 = ...
to construct one or more dams on the river. The National River designation protects natural rivers from industrial uses, impoundments and other obstructions that may change the natural character of the river or disrupt the natural habitat for the flora and fauna that live in or near the river. Three segments totaling were designated the Buffalo National River Wilderness in 1975. At a point about above the Park boundary in
Newton County, Arkansas Newton County is a county in the U.S. state of Arkansas. As of the 2010 census, the population was 8,330. The county seat is Jasper. Newton County is Arkansas's 46th county, formed on December 14, 1842, and named for Thomas W. Newton, an Ark ...
, the Buffalo River begins as the Main Prong of Big Buffalo Creek. The river flows north through Boxley to Ponca, where it then begins an eastward trek across northern Arkansas to its confluence with the White River on the Marion-Baxter County line. Advanced canoeists and kayakers often refer to the section upriver from Boxley as the Hailstone River. This extremely challenging section of the river is floatable only during periods of high water and should be attempted only by those with solid whitewater skills. Along the upper river, the gradient is steep and the water is fast, leveling and slowing as the river runs its course. The upper section has most of the whitewater rapids to be found along the river, and features dramatic
karst Karst is a topography formed from the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, Dolomite (rock), dolomite, and gypsum. It is characterized by underground drainage systems with sinkholes and caves. It has also been documented for more weathe ...
topography including
sink hole A sinkhole is a depression or hole in the ground caused by some form of collapse of the surface layer. The term is sometimes used to refer to doline, enclosed depressions that are locally also known as ''vrtače'' and shakeholes, and to openi ...
s and
cave A cave or cavern is a natural void in the ground, specifically a space large enough for a human to enter. Caves often form by the weathering of rock and often extend deep underground. The word ''cave'' can refer to smaller openings such as sea ...
s, springs, and waterfalls, over tall
sandstone Sandstone is a clastic sedimentary rock composed mainly of sand-sized (0.0625 to 2 mm) silicate grains. Sandstones comprise about 20–25% of all sedimentary rocks. Most sandstone is composed of quartz or feldspar (both silicat ...
and
limestone Limestone ( calcium carbonate ) is a type of carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different crystal forms of . Limestone forms w ...
bluffs, and many rock formations. At one point, a hike from the river up a narrow, boxed canyon leads to a waterfall, Hemmed-In-Hollow Falls, the highest of its kind between the Southern
Appalachians The Appalachian Mountains, often called the Appalachians, (french: Appalaches), are a system of mountains in eastern to northeastern North America. The Appalachians first formed roughly 480 million years ago during the Ordovician Period. They ...
and the Rockies. The river's current also gives life to well over 300 species of fish, insects, freshwater
mussel Mussel () is the common name used for members of several families of bivalve molluscs, from saltwater and freshwater habitats. These groups have in common a shell whose outline is elongated and asymmetrical compared with other edible clams, which ...
s, and aquatic plants. The Buffalo National River is a popular camping,
hiking Hiking is a long, vigorous walk, usually on trails or footpaths in the countryside. Walking for pleasure developed in Europe during the eighteenth century.AMATO, JOSEPH A. "Mind over Foot: Romantic Walking and Rambling." In ''On Foot: A Histor ...
,
canoeing Canoeing is an activity which involves paddling a canoe with a single-bladed paddle. Common meanings of the term are limited to when the canoeing is the central purpose of the activity. Broader meanings include when it is combined with other act ...
, and fishing destination. Visitors may bring their own canoes or rent from several independent concessioners. Camping is generally allowed throughout the park with the following exceptions: the Hemmed-in-Hollow area, on Big Bluff, in historical structures, on private property within the park, or within of any trail or watercourse. Camping is, however, permitted on gravel bars and sand bars along the river. In addition, the National Park Service has a number of "developed" campgrounds along the river. The National Park Service headquarters for the Buffalo National River is located in
Harrison, Arkansas Harrison is a city and the county seat of Boone County, Arkansas, United States. It is named after General Marcus LaRue Harrison, a surveyor who laid out the city along Crooked Creek at Stifler Springs. According to 2019 Census Bureau estima ...
.


Major access areas

*Boxley Bridge – located on the upper end of the river along Arkansas Highway 21. Boxley provides access to the Upper Buffalo Wilderness Area within the
Ozark National Forest The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the extreme southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover a significant port ...
. Provides river accessBuffalo National River, National Park Service, Government Printing Office, 1998 *''Lost Valley'' - located on Arkansas Highway 43 between Arkansas 21 and Ponca. *Ponca – Location of Beaver Jim Villines Boyhood Home. Ponca retains one of the old ‘low water’ bridges over the Buffalo. All boaters must portage over this barrier. Provides river access *''Steel Creek'' – is located on the upstream side of the Ponca section of the Wilderness. Provides river access *''Kyles Landing'' – is located on the downstream side and across the river from the Ponca Wilderness area. This area was once the home of early frontiersman David Conrad Hennegar "Coon" Arbaugh. Provides river access *''Erbie'' - Erbie retains one of the old ‘low water’ bridges over the Buffalo. Provides river access *''Ozark'' - Provides river access *Pruitt Ranger Station – is on
Arkansas Highway 7 Highway 7 (AR 7, Ark. 7, Hwy. 7, and partially Scenic 7 Byway) is a north–south state highway that runs across the state of Arkansas. As Arkansas's longest state highway, the route runs from Louisiana Highway 558 at the Louisiana state line n ...
at the top of the hill overlooking the picnic area and foot access to the river. For boat access, you need to cross the high bridge on Arkansas 7 and use Pruitt Landing. *Pruitt Landing – is located just downstream from Pruitt Ranger Station. Provides river access *''Hasty'' – located off of
Arkansas Highway 123 Highway 123 (AR 123, Ark. 123, and Hwy. 123) is a designation for two state highways in Arkansas. One route begins at Salmon Lane in Boone County and runs north to US Highway 65 Business (US 65B) in Harrison. A second route ...
, just south of the Hasty community. Provides river access *''Carver'' – located on Hwy 123 between Hasty and Piercetown (Arkansas Hwy 74). Provides river access *''Mount Hersey'' – is accessible from unimproved roads. From this access point, ‘Tha Nars’ (Narrows) and Skull Bluff are reached downstream. Provides river access *''Woolum'' - Provides river access *Tyler Bend Visitor Center – is the primary public contact area. It’s just off of U.S. 65. There is a full-service visitor center, picnic area, campground and ranger station. Provides river access Additionally, the ‘Colliers Homestead’ preserves a record of life in the mountains *''Grinders Ferry'' – is located at the Highway 65 Bridge over the Buffalo River. Provides river access *''Gilbert'' – is at the end of
Arkansas Highway 333 Highway 333 (AR 333, Ark. 333, and Hwy. 333) is a designation of three north–south state highways in Arkansas. One route begins at US Highway 64 (US 64) and runs north to Highway 7. A second highway begins at Searcy Count ...
a short off U.S. 65. Provides river access *''Maumee North'' – is on the north side of the river and west of Maumee South. It is accessed by an unimproved road. Provides river access *''Maumee South'' – is on the south side of the river and is accessed from an unimproved road beyond the end of the pavement on County Road 49. *Dillards Ferry – is located on
Arkansas Highway 14 Highway 14 (AR 14, Ark. 14, and Hwy. 14) is an east–west state highway in Arkansas. The route of begins at Boat Dock Road near Table Rock Lake and runs east to Mississippi County Route W1020 (CR W1020) at Golden Lake. Segments of th ...
at the bridge over the Buffalo River. Provides river access *Buffalo Point Ranger Station – is at the end of the pavement on Arkansas Highway 268. Provides river access *''Rushland'' – is reached by an unimproved road beyond the end of the pavement on County 26. It provides access across the river to the
Leatherwood Wilderness The Leatherwood Wilderness, a federally designated wilderness area, is located within the Ozark-St. Francis National Forest in Arkansas is the largest wilderness area in Arkansas. The US Congress designated the Leatherwood Wilderness in 1984 an ...
in the
Ozark National Forest The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a physiographic region in the U.S. states of Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the extreme southeastern corner of Kansas. The Ozarks cover a significant port ...
. Provides river access *Buffalo City – is located outside the National River at the junction of the Buffalo River with its parent the White River. Buffalo City is located off the US 62-412 in Mountain Home on Arkansas Highway 162, about 12 miles from Mountain Home. Provides river access, primarily as the last take out for the Buffalo River along with boat rentals, camping, and cabins.


Hog farm contamination

In 2012, C&H Hog Farms was grated a permit to operate on a major tributary of the Buffalo River. The facility contained over 6,500 hogs, as well as storage areas for their manure. In 2019, the company reached a deal with the State of Arkansas to cease operations on the river. The governor of Arkansas, Asa Hutchison, subsequently announced a moratorium on large confined animal feeding operations in the river's watershed. In January of 2020, the Arkansas Legislature struck down rules set by Hutchison banning similar operations on the river.


See also

* Buffalo River Trail * Buffalo River State Park Historic District *
Big Buffalo Valley Historic District The Big Buffalo Valley Historic District, also known as the Boxley Valley Historic District, is notable as a cultural landscape in Buffalo National River. It comprises the Boxley Valley in northern Arkansas, near the town of Ponca. The valley i ...
*
Rush Historic District The Rush Historic District is a zinc mining region of the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas. Now located within Buffalo National River, the district includes ruins dating from 1880 to 1940. The area was an important part of what became known as the N ...
* Parker-Hickman Farm Historic District


References


Further reading

* ''The Buffalo River in Black and White''. University of Arkansas Press, 1998. * ''The Buffalo Flows: The Story of Our First National River''. University of Arkansas Press, 2009. *''The Battle for the Buffalo River: The Story of America's First National River.'' University of Arkansas Press, 2010.


External links


National Park Service Buffalo River webpageMap of the Buffalo National River, PDF format, 226KBBuffalo National River information
* {{authority control * Rivers of Arkansas Bodies of water of the Ozarks Protected areas of the U.S. Interior Highlands Protected areas established in 1972 National Park Service areas in Arkansas National Park Service Wild and Scenic Rivers Tributaries of the White River (Arkansas–Missouri) Protected areas of Newton County, Arkansas Protected areas of Searcy County, Arkansas Protected areas of Marion County, Arkansas Protected areas of Baxter County, Arkansas Ozark–St. Francis National Forest Bodies of water of Newton County, Arkansas Bodies of water of Searcy County, Arkansas Rivers of Marion County, Arkansas Rivers of Baxter County, Arkansas 1972 establishments in Arkansas